We started the day with an injury. Flo and I were discussing something while preparing breakfast, and when I (incorrectly) bent down to get something from the fridge, Flo bumped into me. It felt like something snapped. My back immediately started killing me, and I lay on the ground screaming. I was convinced that I had slipped a disc. It hurt like a m**********. Flo gave me painkillers, and while I was able to sit, I could still barely walk. That was utter s***.
It was a glorious day, and we were on our way to Aoraki, New Zealand’s highest mountain. It was still a drive away. I spent the entire time researching what I should do next. By the time we reached Aoraki, we had come to a few conclusions:
It was no use going to a hospital. Even if I had slipped a disc, the waiting time for surgery was over four months, meaning I would be back in Germany by then.
I really needed to take painkillers and keep moving—staying still would bring its own set of complications.
I probably wouldn’t be doing any hiking today.
None of this was the news I wanted. While Flo and the kids prepared for a hike, I felt depressed that I couldn’t go. Aoraki is a fickle mountain—its summit is usually hidden in the clouds. Not today. I had never hiked in this area before; the only other time I was here, it was super windy, and a storm was coming up.
I told Flo and the kids I would slowly follow them, but nobody really believed I would make it anywhere. A fresh round of painkillers later, I hobbled out of the van. In the end, my stubbornness got me to Kea Point—it just took me twice as long as it should have. Still, I rarely see my family as happy as they were when I appeared at the rest stop at Kea Point. 🙂 I just missed the small avalanche tumbling down Mount Sefton, as I left before them again.
Getting back down also took time. Flo drove us to Tasman Lake to see Tasman Glacier. I took a nap first, though. The glacier is melting at a considerable pace—when Flo and I were here ten years ago, there was much more ice.
Done with this day of hiking and high mountains, we left Aoraki in our rear window and drove to a freedom camping spot at Lake Pukaki, which offered the most amazing mountain views. The kids loved it, and the adults got to watch the sunset. I was feeling better. The painkillers had gotten me through the day, and I probably hadn’t actually slipped a disc since my back was improving incrementally.
The next day, we hopped over to Lake Tekapo, which is only about 30 km away. We spent some time at the playground and waterfront before heading to a café called “The Greedy Cow” for lunch. After lunch, we checked out the famous Church of the Good Shepherd.
Having only traveled 30 km that day, Flo and I debated whether to stay or drive a longer distance. Keeping my pre-booked time in Christchurch in mind, I opted to move on—and so we did. We drove for quite a while but managed to stop in Fairlie at the Fairlie Bakehouse for coffee and cake. As a delightful extra, we found real bakery-made hot cross buns, which turned out to be the best ones of our entire trip.
Finding a campground for the night with reception was a little harder today. In the end, we stayed at Mayfield Reserve, a lovely but budget-friendly communal campground. The best part? There was a swimming pool right next to it. Although it was already closed, we could get the key for an hour for just five bucks—a great way to end the day.
It was another day spent on painkillers, but now, I was noticeably better.
About to leave our freedom campspot
for a mountain adventure. And I am injured.
Usually, it doesn’t look like this. There is no cloud today.
At least I got to see Aoraki in full from a distance
We were not the only ones heading this way
Traces of mini avalanches everywhere
It was buzzing around Aoraki. Everybody was happy about the good weather for their shenanigans.
Everything else is a little too challenging for the kids. Not to speak of me today -.-
Start of the track
Hiking up
Trying to give an impression of everything
Got there in the end
Also quite impressive
Aoraki is about 12km away with Mueller Lake in the foreground
It’s been a burner of a day, no wonder parts come off
AoE hiking
On our way to Tasman Glacier
coming from the mountains
Well, only for some
Looking down onto the green lakes
No.3 as a classical Rückenfigur
It’s much further way now
The dirty looking ice is the glacier ending in Tasman Lake
from Tasman Glacier look out
Aoraki is still visible. No hiding behind clouds today
On our way out, leaving Aoraki behind
Good old motorhome having made it to and back
Clean your feet before going to bed
Enjoying the sunset for once. Very late bedtime for the kids today.
Looks very nice on the snow
Bye bye! See you tomorrow!
A little cloudy this morning but it seems to be getting better
Always good no matter how long the car ride actually was
Only a short walk down
Stone beaches are also full of opportunities for play
Its water used to be much more turquoise from the glaciers
The Greedy Cow
Milk in two different forms
Such a coffee place
Many a person felt the need to leave theit mark. Flo called it “cancer”
Building a little cave amidst all the stone towers
at Lake Tekapo. Famous as it doesn’t have a painting behind the altar but a window with a view over the lake and the mountain range.
Leaving the southern lakes
for the Agent
Everything was yummy
dwarfed by Timmy
Even if the water was super cold
Two birds with one stone: Cool down and get clean.
We had plans to see other travel / motorcycling friends, Janet and Scott, later this afternoon. By now, they also have three kids so we were invited for a catch up and dinner after naptime at 3.30pm. Which meant, we had almost a whole day to kill first.
So we opted to spend a good chunk of it at our favourite place in Dunedin: Celia’s and Tig’s house. There was time for showers, schoolwork, playtime, food, even more coffee…everthing that happens when 5 adults and 5 kids are in the same place. In the end, Celia came up with the plan to go on a walk at Mt Cargill. It took some time packing snacks, water and whatever the kids needed to go on a walk, but then we were off to a car ride and a walk. The weather was nice, everybody enjoyed to be out and about and the views of Dunedin were quite spectacular. The photos tell most of the story, really.
We were back at Celia’s and Tig’s place just in time to pack up and leave for Janet’s and Scott’s place where we would also spend the night. It was so good to see them again and meet their kids. After a lovely dinner with an astonishing amount of food having been eaten by 4 adults and 5 kids, we got dessert in form of banana bread that their eldest had baked. The two younger of their three girls took quite the liking to the AoE and not long after, they had a make-up party on the top bunk bed.
In the evening, we slipped right back into the good conversations we used to have when all four of us were living in Wellington. Good times were had!
After breakfast the next morning, we said our goodbyes as Janet plans every day very thoroughly, especially the weekends. It reminded me a lot of myself when we’re at home. So many things to do!
For the rest of the Sunday, we got Tig and the two younger kids to join us at St Clair Hot Saltwater pools, while Celia and Charlie went off to train for their big three day hike coming up in April. The pool was very cool, actually pretty warm and it had toys and goggles for the kids to use. Both our kids were IN LOVE with the goggles as they allowed them to dive without the sting in their eyes. So we stayed even longer than our friends, having an extra round of splashing and diving.
Back home at Celia’s and Tig’s, everybody was knackered. A rather quiet evening was had with one more conversation with the adults. I had managed to get through all my pre-prepared lists for the Hocken library in 4 days. Thus, we will leave Dunedin tomorrow after one week here instead of the planned two weeks.
from the start of the track
Ready to go
now all looking very innocent
“I solemnly swear that I am up to no good” face
Nine humans in one shot
Moving past a gigantic pylon to get to the lookout
Getting the photographer
Right at the start of the track
One of the things the kids needed to bring on the walk
All kids were amazing mountain goats
Dunedin is far down there
and a snack
during our snack time
Daddy doesn’t need to see anything
to the highest point of Butters peak
Celia and four out of five kids on the highest point
Made it to the highest point of Butters peak
Both sides
Number 3 and Flo trying their hands at “pole tennis”
Getting everybody to the table
Lots of roasted food
That’s very good for a 7 years old
Oh so many surfers were out today
right next to the beach
We had a loom around even after I found the works I wanted to see
Posing AoE
by Louise Henderson. Number 3 choose this one for his “photo” which was photobombed by the AoE
which the kids put on for me in the Dunedin Art Gallery
Our felt last day was used for Vikos Gorge in an area called Zagori. It’s a mountainous area full of tiny villages and a big canyon. The best place to see the gorge is from Beloi viewpoint which you can only reach after a short hike.
Afterwards we drove to a lovely cafe in Kapesovo.
On the way back, we stopped at Kokkorou, an old stone bridge to take more photos.
Tomorrow is our last day in Greece and we won’t even get a full night’s sleep as we will have to queue for the ferry at 4am. To make it easier on us, we opted for a campground close to Igoumenitsa and returned to our first Greek campground, Sofas beach, for our last night.
Breakfast with a view
The kids were angling with sticks. We had bets going…who would be the first to fall in
She finally practised her driving on a campground…after Number 3 did this with only 14 months. 🙂
Monument for the Brave Women of Pindos
I am always amazed how mountainous Greece is and also lush and green
The view south
To see the main attraction of the area, Vikos Gorge, you have to hike for 1km which should take 15 min according to the signpost. By now I know that Greek signposts are lying…giving my experience with the waterfall hike. Here, Number 3 found a bug
Some of the steps are just too high for the Agent. She fell back on my old technique “If in doubt, slide down on your bum”. Works every time.
Leading the way
The stratification of these rocks reminded me of the pancake rocks in NZ…a lot
We’ve been going for quite a while at this point and should be nearly there. Now crossing through some rocks
Tada….here we are: Vikos Gorge. Vikos Gorge ist listed as the “deepest relative to its width” by the Guiness world record book. There’s only a low wall and then a drop.
Time for sandwiches with an awesome view!
Rock formations
All of the glory in one picture
This tree didn’t make it on its perch
Flo also enjoyed all of our hikes
Still quite happy with the world
In the afternnon, clouds began to roll in. We were really lucky with our timing. The last couple of viewpoints of the mountains before leaving towards the coast
One of our EV promo shots…
The houses indicate where the village of Kapesovo is situated right next to a section of Vikos Gorge
The recommended place for a coffee turned out to be absolutely lovely!
The Agent didn’t bring her jacket to the cafe so she got papa to lend her his fleece jacket
We ordered three different cakes to share so we could try as many as possible
She looks cute, but was able to really mess up the guy who belonged here. Talking about the cat, obviously …
This is just a setup …
… for this context. The old bridge reconstructed.
Number 3 checking out the height, Puru Hiko in the back
Number 3 thoroughly enjoyed the loop over the old and new bridge
The view back to the newer bridge. The road leads across here
Always got to be on the lookout in the twisties in Greece – giving me NZ flashbacks
Number 3 taking 5 – much better than being car sick
“No Mama, I am not tired….I am just resting my head….”
Flo said to them “Last chance for a swim in these holidays, will be cold though”
She handled the cold pretty well but wanted papa to stay close
He didn’t enjoy the cold but, I mean, look at this stick figure…splashing was way better
Today was a bit of an odd day as we didn’t have a plan. Well, we’d actually had a great plan but it fell apart last night. Our plan was to go to Diakopto and ride the train through a gorge as a surprise for Number 3. Last night, we learned that the train hasn’t operated since February. Anyhow, we decided to go there anyway and walk along the tracks. According to the Lonely Planet this is a thing people do even when the train is operating.
So we walked the tracks for a while, had lunch and turned back. From Diakopto, we drove towards Athens which we will visit tomorrow. On the way, Flo wanted to look at the Canal of Corinth, just as a human-made feature. It turned out to be quite cool plus, it had a great bakery right next to it.
We had a lovely morning in camp. Unfortunately, the kids’ play companion from last night slept in until we left.
Oh, behind a palm tree! Let’s sneak up…
Number 3 sitting at the water’s edge, content with his thoughts
The kids digging a hole for play
Excitement about train cars!
The old cars were just left on the tracks and were vandalized a little. Not as much as I would’ve guessed though
The old steam engine (rack and pinion, says Flo)
The Agent in the driver’s seat
The train cars in the back are the “new” ones, usually operating on the tracks
The start of the tracks. We were sure there was no train going
On the way in, the Agent was’t too convinced about walking the tracks. She did her own thing.
Number 3 playing locomotive on the tracks
Pretty steep
The surrounding stone walls were fukll of caves and holes
We just made this track-side nook our lunch place
There’s a lot of great Greek snack food, like pies filled with spinach or cheese. You just buy it in a bakery and you’re set for lunch
On the way back, the Agent was allowed to be the locomotive
Someone was really tired from all the walking and pretending to be a train
You can cross in a car or on foot
This bridge is right before the canal goes out to the gulf. It is submergable, if ships want to use the canal
It’s a bit nuts, isn’t it? They just took out so much rock here.
The pink platform in the middle is to bungy jump off it 😉
Right in the distance, you should be able to see the submergable bridge!
Yep. it`s pretty high!
Fascinating stuff for Number 3
A building advertising “Bakery box” and “Coffee box” must be right up our alley. Snack time!
Number 3 found this sign to be hilarious. Especially since there was a dog around….but not in the parking spot.
AoE drinking cocoa over the canal of Corinth
There is a city camp in Athens but we didn’t get a spot. When I called they told me to try again in 1 1/2 months. So we camped 38km northeast of Athens.
The campsite had a bit of a roof so we sat under it and Flo cooked dinner
The light had already turned a bit hazy during dinner and afterwards, it just looked like apocalypse struck. My first thought was a fire somewhere.
In the end, it turned out to be another incident of Sahara sand. For here on, there was sand everywhere and we kept seeing people trying to clean it off.
We were ready nice and early, having slept right next to the cliffs of Sliabh Liag. The Lonely Planet suggested to drive to the upper car park and then walk for about 500m to get some nice views. That sounded like a short stop with a great photo op. However, when we got there, the upper car park was closed off. The wardens told us that it’s a 2km walk to the upper car park or we could wait until 10am and take up the first shuttle bus. Waiting till 10am wasn’t an option and Flo was against taking the bus anyway.
It would have been fun in the car …
The Agent of Entropy was carried in the baby carrier, Number 3 walked and we “hiked” up to the upper car park. It wasn’t too bad except for the fact that hiking on asphalt isn’t the greatest kind of fun.
We were the first ones up at the upper car park. The coffee and souvenir trucks hadn’t even opened yet but Flo already spotted “The sober bar” which sold non-alcoholic beers. Starting the actual hiking track was fun as most of it consisted of steps made out of natural stones. We soon realized that the views onto the cliff were best from the car park and we didn’t intend to do the whole ridge walk with two small kids. The next nice viewing area was our snack spot and then we turned around again, just in time for the first shuttle bus to arrive.
far enough for us, time to head back down – after snacks
It was lovely that we’d beaten the crowds. Bus after bus started to arrive at the car park. Since we’ve already been as high up as we’d go, we now sat down to have a tea, a cookie and that non-alcoholic Guinness that Flo had seen the night before.
Though this stop was more involved than we’d thought, it was a great one. Sliabh Liag is a cliff, going 600m down into the sea and is thus higher than the cliffs of Moher. The view onto the wall rising out of the water into the clouds was pretty amazing, though I can imagine that the views from the cliff top down are even more spectacular.
From here, our next planned stop was the beach at Rossnowlagh. But first, lunch. “The Rusty Mackerel” only started serving meals from 1pm onwards which was too late for us. Looking out for a bakery along the road, I checked the recommended cafes in Killybegs. Cafe Ahoy was recommended for its seafood chowder. That line alone triggered Flo’s taste buds so we passed the bakery and went there.
Happy to find a table quickly even if it was inside, we decided what to order. Being asked for our drinks order, the waitress told us that she can’t take our food order yet as there are a couple of tables before us. That was an odd statement without any further explanation. We sat there for 30 minutes with our drinks, without ordering food. Literally the second that Flo wanted to get up and leave, the waitress took our order. Hoping that now it would speed up the process, we spent ANOTHER 30 minutes there without any food. Seriously pissed, we finally got up and left. That was seriously shitty customers’ service…please let your guests know if there’s a long waiting time ESPECIALLY if they have young kids who will clearly starve if they have to wait for an hour.
food always imrproves the mood
An hour had passed, we still needed food, the kids were crying because they were so hungry. So we did what we should have done in the first place: We went to the bakery. It turned out to be a bakery/deli so we even had Sheppard’s pie, quiche and pasta salad for lunch and were done in 15 minutes. Cafe Ahoy, you might have been lovely but that was just not acceptable.
Finally, finally, with the kids asleep in the car, we drove to Rossnowlagh. It’s a beach along the way where you can drive your car right up to the water so it made the kids and Flo happy. To be fair, the kids were ecstatic to put their feet into the ocean again. Number 3 wanted to learn everything about jelly fish as this was the first beach where some of them had been beached.
like a dive-in movie. Extremely bizzare. Plus, everyone in camping chairs …
30 minutes later, we had to leave again as the tide was coming in. Some car owners didn’t make it quite fast enough and that their cars bathed in salt water from beneath. Not really a good thing…
But, we were also leaving county Donegal, the first county of the republic of Ireland that we’ve been to. It’s been quite a ride. Counties Sligo & Mayo are beckoning. Well, they will be tomorrow. Today we pulled up in a lakeside caravan park that was overpriced, basic and really nothing special. However, we had a long distance gaming session scheduled and needed power and reception for that.
So proud of how much good care he takes of his sister
It would have been fun in the car …
roadside entertainment to keep him going
through the looking glass: more ireland!
the track had good views, if only it had not been asphalt
number 2 so far – navigational markings
feel the neolithic spirit, young padavan!
wanna fight? Naa, bro!
what a great idea!
so hard to capture – brain does not compute it quit either
the steps looked like some fairy tale setting
the path up, from above
“do it myself!” hobbit being true to her word
far enough for us, time to head back down – after snacks
higher up then the image might suggest
Sliabh Liag’s final look back
I was looking forward to this all the way down
Guinness 0.0 is astonishingly like the real thing. We need an importer!
channeling his spider-man hoodie
food always imrproves the mood
like a dive-in movie. Extremely bizzare. Plus, everyone in camping chairs …
he reqested to go to jelly fish school to learn how to identify them afterwards …
time to get a move on, mate 😀
Random Rory Gallagher statue
happy to have arrived
Felt like giving the kids a reward, so pankakes for desert
We got up, ready to go back to the beach. Both kids had loved running along the beach, feet in the water so saying goodbye to the beach was a high priority. But first, breakfast. We took the easy route as this campground had a mini kitchen for campers to use: toast and a boiled just saved us quite a bit of time, so much in fact that we even got to use the other facilities and had a lovely shower. Right before caking the kids in sunscreen, sand and salt water. XD
conquering of beach
We left the beach later than Flo wanted but too early for the kids so I call it a fair compromise. Our next destination was the Glenveagh National Park although we didn’t have a good idea about what to do there. I already had a hike through Poisened Glen planned for the afternoon and the Glenveagh Castle was closed today.
In the end, we just went with the flow. The Glenveagh Castle Visitor Centre had a charger which we could use without cost, the shuttle bus to the castle cost 6€ for all of us as a return ticket and according to the wardens in the centre, it was great to just explore there for a while. Plus, Number 3 got to ride another – fully electric – bus and was happy.
The walk that caught our eye was a 2km loop to a viewpoint with a view down to the castle and the lake. In the beginning, it led through the outer parts of the “garden” with exotic plants and an Italian terrace but then it meandered up through more native landscape. Both kids were really good throughout the hike. Number 3 had no choice but to walk it all while the Agent of Entropy was carried uphill and then demanded to walk a section of the path downhill.
Nina on the viewpoint, looking down on kitsch “castle”
It was past lunchtime by now but the cafe in the castle was pretty packed and didn’t have a lot that I count as “food”. We rather took the bus back to the Visitor’s Centre and had a pricey lunch there, right next to a playground. Still, for 6€ plus free charging, this was definitely a win.
From here, it was just a short car ride to Poisoned Glen but the Agent still feel asleep. She’s done almost 2 hours longer than her usual naptime so that was quite impressive. Number 3 also was tired but he wasn’t allowed to sleep as he needed to walk more as soon as we stopped.
Final look back
The way to the Glen was scenic already with a view to Errigal Mountain to the right and a sort of bog landscape all around. Parking next to a ruined church, the “rough hiking path” turned out to be a hopping from stone to boulder and back through the bog. Given that Ireland is having a heat wave with 23 degrees and multiple days without rain in a row, the path was pretty dry with occasional patches of bog or a small stream running over it. Flo was instantly happy. The Agent of Entropy slept through most of it and Number 3 was an amazing mountain sheep (he doesn’t want to be a goat). It was described as a 4km round-trip and we got a good stretch in when suddenly, we decided to go back. Number 3, who was very tired by now, had slipped and put a foot in the bog. When he pulled it out, his shoe stuck. It was a catastrophe for him, while Flo had a laughing fit. Of course, we managed to rescue the shoe and Flo cleaned it enough that Number 3 could put (a now very wet shoe) back on.
Back at the car, we embarked on a longer ride to Ardara and over Glengesh Pass. Another really scenic drive though by now, we’ve all had a long day and weren’t as wowed by the scenery anymore. When we arrived at the campground next to Sliabh Liag, I was pretty tired. Just a simple dinner of bread or muesli had to do and then we brought the kids to bed.
Since it was kinds early still, Flo arranged our makeshift baby phone and we went the 300m to the nearest pub “The Rusty Mackerel”. It was lovely as a location, all food looked really good but the kitchen had closed at 8pm and I was a little twitchy because the kids “were so far away”. However, we discovered that Guinness now produces a 0.0 beer which is an important information on a road trip.
Tent in the morning light
good morning heatwave
Number 3 is way more than a token helper at this point!
Last activity with his new camground friend before heading off
eager for whats coming
conquering of beach
The charge of the tiny brigade
pure, unironic joy
The landscape can still change quite suddenly
Italian terrace, Italian pose!
starting the climb to the viewpoint
no more shade from here on
Little trooper leading the way
Nina on the viewpoint, looking down on kitsch “castle”
as far as the eye can see, it was the “proerty” of one man
Fake castle for a popous old white man “shaping” the world
still pretty …
… though
unexpected electric bus ride – Chinese, obviously. Too modern for the European horse-drawn-carriage manufacturers
It rained a lot in the morning. In fact, it rained pretty much ever since last night, with differing intensity. It made breakfast a cold affaire. At this point, I was quite tired and on the lookout for a place to stay an extra night. This was not it. Too few people to keep the kids entertained, a tiny playground and Flo had itchy feet. After the “catered” experience at Carrick-a-rede, Flo really wanted to do the longer hike towards the Giant’s Causeway.
… before going full tramp
Instead of paying the fee for parking and the visitors’ centre, we decided to walk from the town of Bushmills. The Lonely Planet advises that you can walk along the heritage railway line for 2 miles and thus see the Causeway for free. In total, one way would be 3 miles as it is another mile from the visitors’ centre to the actual Causeway.
With the kids, it felt like a bit of a mission. We broke down our camp in the rain, drove the 20 minutes to Bushmills and assembled our kits: From sunshine to storm, you must cover all your bases. Starting the hike, Number 3 was delighted to follow the tracks, or rather walk in between the tracks. The railway only operates on weekends and as it was Friday, we were confident that no train would use the tracks. We were wrong though. Luckily, the train was moving only very slowly and no one could have missed it coming down the tracks but it spoilt Number 3’s fun of walking on the tracks for the rest of the day.
The train tracks wound their way through a golf course and along a beach to an intersection: Go left and along the cliffside or straight along the tracks right to the Visitors’ centre. Since it was a return hike, we opted for the cliffside walk now and the straight track on the way back. The kids were already hungry, and the Agent looked quite sleepy in the baby carrier.
souch a pretty walk, and mostly to ourselves
We turned onto the cliffside path. It started with a small crossing over a stream, continued with a narrow path through brambles and gorse and led to the stunningly beautiful cliffside. It was well worth it to take this hike. Number 3 also enjoyed it as well, but by now, he’d slowed down a bit. Flo kept us informed how long we still had to go until we reached the picnic tables and thus our lunch break.
The Agent made it to our lunch spot but didn’t eat a lot as she was so tired. Everybody else was cheered up and refreshed by the food and break and we continued to the Visitors’ centre, right around the corner as it turned out. The picnic area is already a part of the complex. A fact which Flo hadn’t pointed out on the way here. Right after our lovely little lunch break, we walked headfirst into busloads of people, and overflow carpark and queues at the toilets. It was a bit of a shock to the system, I have to admit.
lavaflow, cracked when cooling down, filled in and then eroded …
From here, it was another easy mile down a bus operated road to the Causeway. As we had seen from a distance, it was crawling with people. Well, with as many people as were allowed in today as the National Trust also sells tickets for this attraction and not too many people did the hike.
Taking our time, sitting down, letting the kids roam, we got to take the sight in. The Causeway’s hexagonal stones are quite amazing. Number 3 climbed all over the place and even the Agent demanded some leeway for climbing and walking through puddles. Flo and Number 3 moved towards one of the edges, talked to one of the wardens there and then explored a big puddle where some sea-life could be observed.
At some point, I had to face the fact that we had to hike back. Number 3 was starting to get tired after roaming around and climbing all sorts of stones. In the end, I convinced Flo to take the bus up the one-mile-long road to the Visitors’ Centre. It gave Number 3 an unexpected bus ride, saved us a mile of walking and it was just so damn convenient for a pound a person.
This time, we walked along the railroad tracks all the time. It dragged. Number 3 was still walking but slowly now. Distracted by a conversation about his next birthday party, we finally made it back to the car. Yippie! No rain showers, mostly sunshine, a couple of clouds and a great day at the Causeway was over. I was ready to head to the campground and call it for today.
she was so proud to be in the driver seat
Flo and I had a brief exchange about having coffee somewhere as a reward for the kids and I managed to put “Koko” in Portrush into our Sat nav. Great coffee and maybe a slice of cake sounded lovely just about right now. Driving into Portrush, we were taken by surprise by two things: The coffee place was about to close and only offered take away – which were still top notch. Number 2 there was a big fair at the waterfront with a building full of rides right next to it. Both kids were determined to go have a look even after we told them that we’d spent our last coin on the bus ride.
Since they were so good during the hike and the café had closed, they got two rides worth of tokens each and we headed inside. They rode carrousel horses and a fun bus before we left. Number 3 got a special bumper car ride all by himself as an extra as the Agent did not meet the height requirement. She and I waited outside so that it wouldn’t be too hard on her.
Now we were more than ready to go. Just…one more thing. A stop at a grocery store to pick up supplies for breakfast.
Our pre-arranged campground turned out to be lovely. We got a grassy pitch, electricity, a playground, and LOTS of kids to play with. In fact, it was so lovely that we asked to extend our stay for another night and I finally get my rest day tomorrow.
this came in seconds, Nina and the Agent got caught out at the loo
the weather is so bad, the cows are seeking shelter
First careful investigation of the tracks …
… before going full tramp
change of shoes from wellys to walking, it had dried up enough
it really was very slow …
we had everyones gum boots with us, but with the barfoot shoes on we really had to tread carefullyaaa
nothing to say, just a pretty picture
the path near the water’s edge was more adventurous
again, love our barefoot shoes, but even a bit of water in them sucks
braving wild roses and brambles at the same time
we got quite close and got a bit of a show at this windswept bit
souch a pretty walk, and mostly to ourselves
Number 3 spotted the first one, but even when we found another – no clue what this is?
just up here and around the corner. We made it to lunch
I was hungry, making pace
got it! Picknick spot in sight
the causeway (in the middle) got a bit of a colourful infestation going
off the beaten hexagon 😀
what a perfect playground for number 3
The agent repeatedly demanded to be let down
wind as an added challenge
as close as was safe, my brave family
lavaflow, cracked when cooling down, filled in and then eroded …
giants fighting is maybe the cooler story
life in every nook and cranny
oh sweet freedom
other way around is equally impressive
charging Number 3 up for the way back
semi permanet fair in Portrush
tokens for the fair – her precious
all(most) over
that horse has a bit of a worrying expression
true joy, thanks Garreth …
she was so proud to be in the driver seat
fully focussed
he really got the hang of it. Not his first ride, either
failed to catch he hores on the padock in the back. still a great spot
We had thought about staying here for two nights and using Tivendentorp as a base for some hiking in the Tiveden National Park. And even though the day started much to Nina’s delight with a full breakfast buffet, it was not enough to keep us here – mostly because of the spot, a bit discarded, off to the side of an otherwise stunning site.
Everyone gets a taste
We used our time before the 8am start of the breakfast well with pre-packing and washing up, so that we could be on the road pretty quickly once the leisurely breakfast time was over. We did leave really early in fact and were at the main entrance of the park early enough to manage to get a parking spot.
With some fresh well water in our bladders and Number 3’s chat with the park ranger to find out what kind of animals he can expect today (very proud of him to have asked on his own, in English! Also very cool to have a ranger on-site). The answer was birds 😀
We chose the shortest of the four loops – with a bit of a better feeling about this after the ranger told us this was their “crown jewel” and the reason the park was created in the first place. 2,5 km set for a 1-2 hrs walk promised quite a lot of up and down on the way.
Any hike that starts like this will likely be our cup of tea
I will let the pictures (of which we have selected way too many) do most of the talking, but I want to state how proud we both were of Number 3 walking the whole thing with little complaint. He made up a game of “absorbing” the track markers to recharge. Just my kind of kid! The walk was stunning and just what we were hoping for: Mildly challenging to do with the carrier and a 3 year old and with lots of different undergrounds and little obstacles. At the risk of sounding very esoteric, but hiking with barefoot or minimal shoes is just a whole extra layer to the experience for us. Sensing the moss, the soft earth and grippy rock face with the soles of your feet is very … ah, I’ll say it: grounding!
We had a good lunch of prepared sandwiches at the view-point and were ready for an early camp to get the chance for a pitch in time for afternoon tea by the time we arrived back at the car around 12:30pm. A few snacks and a fireside chat with other hikers and we were ready to say farewell to Tiveden for this time. What a lovely place.
Number 3 deserved his sandwich
But now it was off into the unknown. My research last night did not produce any great options for tonight, but we wanted to see if we can find a place to free camp along the way. The drive was relaxing as always in Sweden, real meditative road-trip feeling. The hunt for a good place worked out less in our favour. There were a few good spots too early for our liking and by the time we wanted to settle we were in this (stunning, nonetheless) rural landscape with few “out of sight” spots in between. I had a look at a bathing spot and a hiking area, but both were not really what we were looking for. Coming out from the last one, we passed a “ställplats” sign pointing to a farm. It was a lovely sight, with no one else here and power available, around the cute red barn. But alas, they did not have a toilet for guests, and we don’t carry one, so off again we had to drive.
Farm in the evening glow 2
Ready to settle I checked google and spotted a tiny place just 15 minutes down the road – Nina checked ahead and all was well. It was another “ställplats” on a farm, but a bit more involved. The owner was the kindest person, managing to be super kind and helpful even in the middle of running a farm and stable during harvest season. She even took plenty of time to explain the whole process of bringing in wheat, siloing it and sending it off again to the mill to the curious Number 3. He was so happy to tell me all about it when he and Nina came back from an exploration round. We had a good grassy patch with electricity, there were horses around and even the weather held for a picture perfect sunset …
the Agent did not like the cold in the morning
off we go, to breakfast
she was out for blood – we spoiled the sparrow hunt for her
the ground of the hostel / camp
The reception and cafe open for breakfast
Everyone gets a taste
the breakfast dessert after a healthy start
gravel tracks inside Tiveden National Park
cool hub for the park – a half open building
Any hike that starts like this will likely be our cup of tea
and another one in the bag
all sorts of obstacles waiting for us
a cool bogy spot on the lee side of a huge boulder
we made it to the view point!
2 1/2 derps posing at the viewpoint
eh – papa, this seems rather high up …
Number 3 deserved his sandwich
I’ll just walk over here mommy – it’ll be right?
the lookout and his voice of reason
her eyes were clearly focused on the more pressing issues 😉
the ice age glaciers deposited boulders of all sizes – up to 25m in diameter
and another little obstacle – with a prize on the other side
something to keep herself entertained – better than pulling dad’s pony tail
please note that the Agent felt the need to help out here …
I’ll just leave that here …
kicking the rock gives off a satisfying “thunk”
so close, but never right. Still missing out on forraging porchini
not everyone undestands those raised paths, apparently
someone had a sense of humor …
only 1km to go, time for a last break
maybe it is not all bad that our kids are as dimiutive as we are …
Lake view Tiveden
Tiveden lake view 2
a good day to be out and about
the path kept meandering until the very end
only minor slowdown on the obstacles for Number 3
and out we were, into the countryside. Prettier than expected from the satellite view
looked so promising, but alas …
the weather has turned for good
sunset in Sweden
Farm in the evening glow 1
Farm in the evening glow 2
Last light of a long day
I found the farmer and her husband sitting here for a moment – even with all the work they have been doing. Impressive
what perfect light
horses came over to check Nina out
late night blogging – every word counts before the mozzies come out
The first night in the tent…let’s just say there is room for improvement. 😊 Flo and I were toasty as our set-up is tried and proven time and again. Both kids were cold and complained, waking us up repeatedly. So our mood was not the best when the alarm went off in the morning.
we had colder before, but not the wee ones
Breakfast was the first ray of light in a grey day with lots of drizzle. The Agent of Entropy devoured a whole banana. Nonetheless, you could just tell that everybody was sleep-deprived and slightly grumpy. Flo wouldn’t be deterred though: There was a tower on a hill which you could see from our campsite and he was determined to get to that tower. Today. So, we packed our backpacks and hit the track.
Number 3 was not amused. He was in no mood to walk. At all. He managed to cross the field to the village where the track was about to start. Trying to solve the conundrum, Flo decided to carry Number 3 in the carrier while I had the Agent of Entropy in the cloth wrap. It was quite an exhausting way of hiking…
The track, however, was worth it. It started with a steep section through dense forest with animal statues on both sides to show kids what kind of animals used this habitat. Further up we went to the saddle where we had an early lunch with delicious bread and cheese. The Agent of Entropy took a nap while Number 3 explained that he couldn’t sleep because he had to see every single tree we passed.
About 1km from the tower Number 3 decided that his battery was sufficiently charged now that he could walk a little. It was okay for about 200 meters and then he had a full-on melt-down when he wasn’t allowed back into the carrier. He screamed at the top of his lungs for the rest of the way to the tower. Since I had asked him about a million times if he was sure that he wanted to walk now and that he couldn’t get back into the carrier before we reached the tower…we just all had to suffer through this. At the top, we had another break with snacks.
Tower at the edge of Baden-Baden city limits
Flo went up the tower to enjoy the views, the kids and I stayed on ground level.
The way down on the other side was fun. Number 3 more than redeemed himself with being a great pleasure to hike with for the rest of the way. First, we went down quite a rocky path, then a steep slope to finally come back to a wide hiking path. Only on the wide pathway did Number 3 need more encouragement and the occasional boost off being carried a few meters. We were back at the campsite around 4pm, six hours after we started.
Flo was totally the hero in this piece as he carried both kids for the last kilometer of our hike. Needless to say: getting the kids to bed was easy this night. Not falling asleep right next to them proved to be much harder…
we had colder before, but not the wee ones
yes, put the pebbles in there … not into my coffee!
We said we
would only stay one night. Unfortunately, and at no fault of the campground,
the night was not the most refreshing one. Number 3 cried through the witching
hour. Molars come easy, most of our friends say – apparently, Number 3 begs to
differ.
Everybody a
bit cranky, not in the most efficient of spirits, packing went slowly. It was
also a bit overcast, so the (desperately needed) washing from the night before
took its right time to dry. Instead of literally watching our clothes dry, we
decided to break it up and let the little one explore the camp ground.
tough night, time to explore
First, he
cautiously waved at the young Dutch family I had a good chat with last night.
Then he set his eyes on the big price: The only age appropriate playmate
around. Once again, the camper population is almost exclusively divided between
(mostly Dutch) retirees and young German parents on their parental leave trips.
His playmate was part of the second group.
Jonna, it
turned out, was almost exactly the same age as Number 3 – and almost uncannily
alike in development. In contrast to our grasshopper, this one came with an
elder sibling. So it happed that we first stopped, then chatted and in the end
“occupied” the spot of this German family. The elder sister was called Rahel.
Number 3 took an immediate liking, and she was very good with the little ones.
Or maybe it was her flash red Pucky pushbike that captured his interests.
In a bit of
a playground conversation situation we ended up all on a blanket and in a very
pleasant chat. Pia (Jan took the opportunity of 3 supervising adults to the
same number of kids to socialise himself J) shared a bit of their travel story
so far, and time went by. Decision time came and as the sun came out a bit, it
was just too good a moment and place to be interrupted by departure. So we will
stay another night. With that off our shoulders, things took a turn to the
bright side.
Late night blogging
We moved
the whole cabal over to our camp when the obligatory 12 noon Dutch campground
lawnmower brigade had bugged us long enough. I had a chance to show off our
mobile “cave” to Rahel and we got some tips on what to do with the afternoon.
After a
great lunch finding a creative use for the odd Portuguese cheese I bought the
other day, and a long nap by the sleepers of the clan, we buckled up for a bit
of walking. There was a loop walk following the little river Mira right next to
the camp and through the surrounding hills. 5 km seemed just our thing.
The start
of the track was the best part, following the riverbank for two kilometres. It
was very much our thing, with a few rugged bits and beautiful views of the
valley. We took our good time and had a break half way for some fresh fruit and
a chance for Number 3 to stretch his legs.
All in all
we were out for a bit more than two hours. All the washing was dry now, of
course. A quick bread and spreads dinner and a little romp around our camp gave
us enough time to let the evening fade out with a bit more good company. I
still had most of a bottle of red wine lying about – I needed just a swig for
cooking. So we kind of invited ourselves to Pia, Jan, Rahel and Jonna’s dinner
baring gifts.
It turned into a lovely warm evening sitting and chatting. Dinner was even vegetarian, hence Nina could tuck in for a second meal as well. When we came back to our campsite about half an hour past bed time for the little one, everyone was in a good spirit. It was the right decision to hang around – I think we have learned from our last stop in Spain!
You must be logged in to post a comment.