Tag Archives: ställplats

Day 17 – Goth Burger

We got greeted by a delightfully sunny morning on our little ställplats out in the middle of nowhere. It was not as cold as the last two nights close to the lake and a bit further north, so breakfast was a pleasant and rather quick affair. Today was marked fully as a city day, but we had a little bit to go before we could get to that.

Breakfast at the ställplats

About 100km and an extremely confusing ride through a cratered landscape of urban re-development later, we found ourselves at the desired parking garage as close to the old town as we needed. We had to be a bit cheeky to grab one of the last four available chargers (out of 50+, mind you!) but around 10:30am we were ready to explore.

After a quick glance at the Lonely Planet map, we decided to start at the northernmost point for the day and get ourselves a bit of an overview from there. Quite literally, actually – since the first stop was the harbor high-rise called “the lipstick”. It had a dedicated viewing platform accessible to the public. 13 € and an elevator ride later, we were treated to a spectacular 360° view of Gothenburg. We could see the moored sailing vessel Number 3 took a liking to on our way here, the massive redevelopment happening in the east that almost tripped our google maps navigation and much more.

New bridge opening

Of particular interest to Number 3 were all the construction sites with interesting machinery in operation all around. That was, until a ship approached to pass the new bridge and it lifted the whole central bit up, tram tracks and all. The old bridge, in the process of being torn down, was locked in open position anyways. Perfect timing – even Nina dared to approach the windows for a view. Otherwise, she preferred the seats closer to the core 😀

Next up was lunch. I had picked a vegetarian place a bit further south and we made the track across town. What I should have done is some COVID due diligence and check if the place actually made it through 2020 (which it had not) – nothing outdates a guidebook (2019 edition!) faster than a global pandemic, eh? With that disappointment fresh and already well into lunch time, we had to revert to emergency mode and settle for “anything, hopefully fast”. The vegetarian buffet lunch we ended up with was alright, but nothing to write home about.

He might take after me in that regard

After lunch, some more exploration on foot, via the oldest stone building in the old town (Kronhuset, 1654). The slightly younger service buildings around it have been converted into artisan workshops and cafés. And so, our quest to visit a chocolate manufactory on every continent continued with some gifts and snacks for the way on our way out.

We decided on a change of pace and for two more stops for the day. Four, if you choose to see it from Number 3’s perspective: City museum for some brain food, tram ride, Haga for city vibes and coffee time, tram ride and then home.

Haga, an “area of interest” according to the guide book

The museum was pretty cool and held the kids’ attention for a good hour and a half, topped off with an amazing playroom they had basically to themselves for a while. The tram ride would most likely be the real highlight of the day, in Number 3’s opinion.

Haga was a very good way to round out the day. A different, more neighborhood-y vibe than the old town it reminded us of Sachsenhausen in Frankfurt. We shared a humongous kanelbullar and enjoyed the atmosphere. In terms of excitement factor for our eldest, all this paled in comparison though to being allowed to pull the string (very old school) to signal the tram driver for our stop.

So off we went, after a good, enjoyable day to our beachside campground just out of town. I think it was a good way to say goodbye to Sweden. Tomorrow, the road …

Day 16 – Almost Norway – Off to the west coast

We’ve had a great time here in Högsbyns with our extended stay. However, our holiday is almost over as we can count down the days on one hand now. We made fast progress with packing and were almost ready to hit the road…when Flo managed to talk up our neighbours again. Our kids had briefly played with Oskar yesterday so today, he had no qualms about hanging out. At some point his father came by and Flo got into a serious conversation about travelling. It’s always good to meet fellow travellers’ and, due to the pandemic, none of our usual meet-ups had happened. So we were quite starved for this kind of conversation.

Number 3 checking out the jumpstart cables on our car

Once we were completely packed up, we stayed maybe another 20 minutes. I took the garbage out and when I returned, Flo already looked embarrassed and a little stressed. From far away, he called “Don’t hurry, the tiny battery is flat again”. Oh right, I had completely forgotten about this as it hasn’t happened on this trip so far. Once we camp somewhere for more than a night, we have to deliberately recharge our tiny 12 volt battery through having our car “running” or risk a flat battery. Obviously, Flo had forgotten that this is a problem (and might have left an interior light on). So it took us another, I don’t know, 45 minutes (?) to first ask our neighbours, then try a motorbike battery and then have Jan, the owner of the campground, drive his ancient Passat to our car to give us a jump start. Of course, we were somewhere on the hillside where no regular campervan would could go to help out. Oh well. Apart from the time loss and me trying to keep calm, this flat battery didn’t do any harm.

Lunch time! So happy!

Today, we had planned a visit to one of the Unesco World Heritage Sites to look at Bronze Age stone carvings. Since we started the day so late, we got to the place and raided the cafe “Bronze” first to satiate our hunger. The lunch menu included fika aka coffee/tea and cookies which I found extremely satisfying. The little museum explaining things about Bronze Age culture here and the carvings and also the connectedness of the European world at that time was really cool. It had great gimmicks to keep the kids engaged and occupied before we took a hike to see carvings. Well, you pass the playground first so we had to pretend to be on an ocean voyage for a bit. 🙂

Unesco World Heritage listed rock carvings from the Bronze Age

The hike was pleasant but overshadowed by a little pain. I had gotten many mosquito bites on my ankle and it turned out that I am also allergic to Swedish mosquitoes as well, so they all swelled up to ridiculous size and made walking itchy and painful. Plus, Number 3 was tired and not up for a lot of walking. Once we got to the site, it was cool to see the carvings but they also looked incredible fake to me. As if someone had painted them here yesterday. It’s a disputed restoration choice that the carvings have been painted in a deep red tone. It makes them incredibly visible but also looks as if they’d been done recently. All the wear and age of the place seems gone.

A cairn also known as a pile of rocks

We hiked up to a cairn, which was as far as Number 3 was willing to go. Up there, he started to complain a lot and even fell down unfortunately. With a scratch on his palm, he started crying. Our saviours came in the form of a cookie monster plushy. A boy and his family hiked up as well and he had his cookie monster in the hood of his sweater. He then even entertained Number 3 and the Agent with a little cookie monster impersonation and shared his cookies with our kids! Munching happily even the walk back to our car was doable.

Our little gourmet ordered macarons

Another short ride later, we stopped in a village on the west coast called Fjällbacka. It’s only 80km from here to Oslo and somehow, it also starts to look Norwegian already. The village is famous for Ingrid Bergman having spend her summers here in retreat. It’s a cute place with wooden houses, right at the sea – a little bit of a resort feeling but them we didn’t stand out too much in our outdoor gear either. We got here just in time for our second fika in a cafe. The Agent was naughty, again, as she now started to pour out every drink in her cup right onto herself or the ground to see what happens. It was only water but it still is annoying. Especially when she then started complaining that it’s getting cold.

We strolled down the main road but then decided we were better off buying some things for dinner in the supermarket and start driving towards Göteborg. Tomorrow, for our last real day in Sweden, we want to spend another day in the city.

Fully stocked up, we drove along the coast, checking out potential free camps. At some point, we came across a basic “ställplats” which had everything except for drinking water. It even offered electricity so we put up the tent and stayed for the night.

Day 13 – Back to Nature

We had thought about staying here for two nights and using Tivendentorp as a base for some hiking in the Tiveden National Park. And even though the day started much to Nina’s delight with a full breakfast buffet, it was not enough to keep us here – mostly because of the spot, a bit discarded, off to the side of an otherwise stunning site.

Everyone gets a taste

We used our time before the 8am start of the breakfast well with pre-packing and washing up, so that we could be on the road pretty quickly once the leisurely breakfast time was over. We did leave really early in fact and were at the main entrance of the park early enough to manage to get a parking spot.

With some fresh well water in our bladders and Number 3’s chat with the park ranger to find out what kind of animals he can expect today (very proud of him to have asked on his own, in English! Also very cool to have a ranger on-site). The answer was birds 😀

We chose the shortest of the four loops – with a bit of a better feeling about this after the ranger told us this was their “crown jewel” and the reason the park was created in the first place. 2,5 km set for a 1-2 hrs walk promised quite a lot of up and down on the way.

Any hike that starts like this will likely be our cup of tea

I will let the pictures (of which we have selected way too many) do most of the talking, but I want to state how proud we both were of Number 3 walking the whole thing with little complaint. He made up a game of “absorbing” the track markers to recharge. Just my kind of kid! The walk was stunning and just what we were hoping for: Mildly challenging to do with the carrier and a 3 year old and with lots of different undergrounds and little obstacles. At the risk of sounding very esoteric, but hiking with barefoot or minimal shoes is just a whole extra layer to the experience for us. Sensing the moss, the soft earth and grippy rock face with the soles of your feet is very … ah, I’ll say it: grounding!

We had a good lunch of prepared sandwiches at the view-point and were ready for an early camp to get the chance for a pitch in time for afternoon tea by the time we arrived back at the car around 12:30pm. A few snacks and a fireside chat with other hikers and we were ready to say farewell to Tiveden for this time. What a lovely place.

Number 3 deserved his sandwich

But now it was off into the unknown. My research last night did not produce any great options for tonight, but we wanted to see if we can find a place to free camp along the way. The drive was relaxing as always in Sweden, real meditative road-trip feeling. The hunt for a good place worked out less in our favour. There were a few good spots too early for our liking and by the time we wanted to settle we were in this (stunning, nonetheless) rural landscape with few “out of sight” spots in between. I had a look at a bathing spot and a hiking area, but both were not really what we were looking for. Coming out from the last one, we passed a “ställplats” sign pointing to a farm. It was a lovely sight, with no one else here and power available, around the cute red barn. But alas, they did not have a toilet for guests, and we don’t carry one, so off again we had to drive.

Farm in the evening glow 2

Ready to settle I checked google and spotted a tiny place just 15 minutes down the road – Nina checked ahead and all was well. It was another “ställplats” on a farm, but a bit more involved. The owner was the kindest person, managing to be super kind and helpful even in the middle of running a farm and stable during harvest season. She even took plenty of time to explain the whole process of bringing in wheat, siloing it and sending it off again to the mill to the curious Number 3. He was so happy to tell me all about it when he and Nina came back from an exploration round. We had a good grassy patch with electricity, there were horses around and even the weather held for a picture perfect sunset …