Tag Archives: cold

Day 2 – An unexpected daytour

The first night in the tent…let’s just say there is room for improvement. 😊 Flo and I were toasty as our set-up is tried and proven time and again. Both kids were cold and complained, waking us up repeatedly. So our mood was not the best when the alarm went off in the morning.

we had colder before, but not the wee ones

Breakfast was the first ray of light in a grey day with lots of drizzle. The Agent of Entropy devoured a whole banana. Nonetheless, you could just tell that everybody was sleep-deprived and slightly grumpy. Flo wouldn’t be deterred though: There was a tower on a hill which you could see from our campsite and he was determined to get to that tower. Today. So, we packed our backpacks and hit the track.

Number 3 was not amused. He was in no mood to walk. At all. He managed to cross the field to the village where the track was about to start. Trying to solve the conundrum, Flo decided to carry Number 3 in the carrier while I had the Agent of Entropy in the cloth wrap. It was quite an exhausting way of hiking…

The track, however, was worth it. It started with a steep section through dense forest with animal statues on both sides to show kids what kind of animals used this habitat. Further up we went to the saddle where we had an early lunch with delicious bread and cheese. The Agent of Entropy took a nap while Number 3 explained that he couldn’t sleep because he had to see every single tree we passed.

About 1km from the tower Number 3 decided that his battery was sufficiently charged now that he could walk a little. It was okay for about 200 meters and then he had a full-on melt-down when he wasn’t allowed back into the carrier. He screamed at the top of his lungs for the rest of the way to the tower. Since I had asked him about a million times if he was sure that he wanted to walk now and that he couldn’t get back into the carrier before we reached the tower…we just all had to suffer through this. At the top, we had another break with snacks.

Tower at the edge of Baden-Baden city limits

Flo went up the tower to enjoy the views, the kids and I stayed on ground level.

The way down on the other side was fun. Number 3 more than redeemed himself with being a great pleasure to hike with for the rest of the way. First, we went down quite a rocky path, then a steep slope to finally come back to a wide hiking path. Only on the wide pathway did Number 3 need more encouragement and the occasional boost off being carried a few meters. We were back at the campsite around 4pm, six hours after we started.

Flo was totally the hero in this piece as he carried both kids for the last kilometer of our hike. Needless to say: getting the kids to bed was easy this night. Not falling asleep right next to them proved to be much harder…

Day 53 – vive la France!

Our last real day in France – and last rest day before we shift gears one more time. Oh, and also 75^th anniversary of the invasion of Normandy. Glad we did not take that route 😉 – security procedures must be a nightmare. While the world leaders played politics with remembrance, we had much smaller goals for the day.

Actually, apart from taking a final breather, there was really only one thing: To organise bread for lunch or dinner. Everything else would fall into place. So I brushed up my limited French to work on the owners and find out how we could get some bread without taking the car. My idea was to go on a very small hike to a restored old mill and bakery nearby, but that one it turned out only opens twice a month. The 45 minute walk into the next village seemed a bit much, so I tried for bicycles instead. Once I finally had communicated the reasoning for all this questing, I got the offer to get some bread from the lady of the house and save me the trouble. Fine by us!

Weather is still a mixed bag, but for most of the day it stayed dry, even sunny at times. It still took until the afternoon to get comfortably warm outside. So much so in fact that my winter coat that I took as a last minute addition got dusted off once more by Nina (who from there on out had a big grin on her face and said something about walking around in a blanket …).

That was it, really. By the afternoon, we had the campground almost to ourselves. Once the lawn mowing and hedge trimming had stopped, we got to fully soak in the tranquil and beautiful place all around us. The day slipped by and we soaked in the last bit of sunshine and afternoon warmth with another cup of tea / coffee.

Oh yeah – and I got a sunburn. Ridiculous, the rainiest day in a long time, but that’s what we whiteys get for skipping the sunscreen.

everything sagging a bit, but overall ..
… camp took the rain well.
Number 3 played for an exceptinally long time by himself …
… indulging in his love for pebbels
with this view, we did not mind much

Day 34 – I see ice on the mountain tops

With our excursion to the east already a success, we now put our eyes on the Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela. It’s a good 2 hour drive to get there so we planned to spend a night in the mountains to fully immerse ourselves.

The drive through the small villages with orange and lemon trees full of fruits was delightful. Quite a lot of houses are for sale so we mused for a while about getting a quinta with an olive grove…you never know.

Before we entered the National Park, we stocked up on groceries and fuel, just to be safe. Coming from the plains, going higher and higher up the mountains was pretty cool already. We stopped at the first view point for exactly those views but it was too close to the road for a lunch stop. So we continued further into the park. Finding the perfect spot proved to be a difficult thing. The next official picnic area was pretty full with a busload of people. Thus, we backtracked a little bit and took a gravel road for a couple of hundred meters until we were just out of sight. Blue George had quite the adventure getting us there. We were happy with the place though it was really cold, when we got out of the car. Really cold. You-can-see-your-own-breath cold. There is no bad weather, just bad gear…we wrapped up in warm clothes and had lunch. Flo decided that since it was so cold, we needed a warm lunch, got out the cooker and fried eggs and sausages.

It made for an epic lunch. Number 3 had a lot of fun running around and examining the pine cones on the ground. One thing was clear after the stop though: We wouldn’t spend the night on the mountain. The altitude of 1600 meters meant that it was 4 degrees at high noon. This time, we really just didn’t have the gear (or the heart/nerves) to camp in minus degrees with Number 3. His nights have been bad enough lately without us adding “being cold” to the list of reasons why he wakes us up.

After lunch, we really enjoyed our drive through the National Park up until the town of Manteigas. The town is on a lower altitude already but was still too cold for us. We went in search of a café but couldn’t find one. Instead we bought baked goods for the road and continued.

The “rustic” camp ground in Gouveia, still an hour away, was our goal for the night. The way out was about as windy as the way in. Filled with great views and great roads for Blue George (and Flo).

At the camp ground, we took it slow. The interrupted nights took a toll on Flo and my energy levels.

Into new adventures…
…in the National park
Looking onto the plains
Hopping back down
Field of granite boulders
Enjoying the ride
Yes, that is definitely a patch of ice
Exploded Blue George
Running and running and runnig
Sausage rolls for lunch
Blue George on his own adventure
Car fun!
This is my view of things
Into the valley
Roadside waterfall
Different valley, now towards Gouveia
It is still pretty here
I wasn’t too keen on the roads with absolutely no guards against falling for a couple of hundred meters
Lookout into the valley
Epic Flo shot
Nina on the rocks
Still having fun
Camp at Gouveia
Silly buggers

Day 12 – Granada or the Disappointment of sights in Spain

It had been really bloody cold last night. Temperatures dropped to somewhere between 3 to 1 degree and it made for an uncomfortable night. Not because we didn’t have enough blankets to deal with it but because Number 3 refused to sleep in his cold “bed” and decided that mama was the only warm place to sleep upon.

There is a ticket office that has the “no tickets available” sign permanently nailed to it …

Today was the day to visit Granada. Our camp ground was only about a 30km drive away and I had really been looking forward to seeing the Alhambra. However, it turned out (again) that Spain is incompatible with our travelling style. We had the same trouble in Barcelona already when we couldn’t get tickets to see any of the sights I wanted to see. Though back then, we could have remedied it by staying a couple of days longer: No same-day tickets but tickets in a couple of days were available. So we learned from this and had checked out tickets for the Alhambra about 3 days in advance with the option of adding up to 3 days to our stay…just to make sure we actually get to see it this time. De nada. Online tickets to visit the Alhambra are sold out until the middle of June. There is a small number of same-day tickets but people start queueing for them from 2am onwards…nothing that is at all feasible with a baby.

So there we had it. Physically in Granada, unable to see Alhambra. Didn’t make for the best of mornings or city visits. I understand the necessity of regulating the number of visitors…didn’t lessen the disappointment though.

We still drove into Granada and checked out the outside of the Alhambra but it isn’t that much fun. Also, there is not much to see except for a wall and a bit of garden. It’s a good time to go as all the orange trees have fruits upon fruits hanging on them and just look lovely.

With that little sightseeing done, we drove into the city center of Granada. Eating traditional tapas helped a little to get over the disappointment. We picked a traditional tapas place instead of fusion one to get a taste of southern Spain. Flo loved it! He ordered the “warm plate” for two people, even if the menu suggested that only one thing on there was vegetarian. So I had Spanish potato and egg omelette from the plate and a spinach empanada that I ordered. Not feeling quite as filled as Flo I continued to order “Queso a la plancha” which turned out to be three big pieces of grilled cheese with orange marmalade and…fish eggs…*shudder*. Luckily, everything was piled up neatly and I could eat around the fish eggs.

A stroll through the inner city showed us some great architecture and an impressively clean and rich looking city. For our actual sightseeing, we went into the museum next to the cathedral; the place where Isabella and Ferdinand are buried and some of their personal things and art is exhibited. So I got to see some Memlings and Van der Weydens as well as a Botticelli up close.

Worn out from walking around and spending that much time in the sun, we continued on a short while towards Malaga. A very affordable little camp ground right before the city was our stop for the night.

The team checking out the spectacular early morning views
that is what they found
Top view on the reservoir and the mointains from the campground
There is a ticket office that has the “no tickets available” sign permanently nailed to it …
beggars at the door
peeking in like a commoner
Would have been a nice walk down to the city
garden between the walls
A little orange grove in the parking lot. Funny to see fruit bearing trees as decoration
heading down to the city. Our front view with the tent up there 😉
TAPAS!
He manages to scrounge treats wherever we go …
building decoration
The mausoleum / tempel of Isabella and Ferdinand
Heading for the Costa del Sol

Day 1 – Mistakes to learn from

Does it make it better to know that you are going to mess something up the first try? A little bit, I suppose. We are by no means greenhorns when it comes to travelling. Yet, it is inevitable. There will be mistakes. After all, we are trying something new for us. And most importantly of course, this is the very first time number 3 is experiencing anything like this.

First mistake: Our newest crew member has a LOT lower tolerance for chewing kilometres. No iron butt to win on this holiday. It obviously did not help that we allowed him to fall asleep for his mid-day nap while still at home. But look at him. So adorable, who could interrupt su… wrong! Sleep now means no sleep later – and the car seat is the only valid daytime napping place for this trip.

sleeping_linus — Bad mistake – should not let him have his nap before the car

So why did we tarry until lunch time? Well, our pre-packing over the weekend showed a fatal flaw in our overall packing strategy, which meant last minute adjustments and thus an early morning trip to the hardware store. What was the issue? We thought we could keep our sleeping gear in the tent. No chance in hell! With the thicker mattresses, the moisture barrier mats and the inner tent, there is not even enough space left for a sheet. I know, I tried. I think I opened and closed the iKamper Skycamp about 10 times on Sunday trying to somehow make it fit.

So without fully re-doing our luggage and throwing out a substantial amount, I had to find space some other way. I ended up taking out half the rear seats – something I intended to do anyway. But for that, I needed a bloddy T50 torx bit, hence the trip to the hardware store. It still is quite the squeeze. To fit everything in. But everything is secure and the rear view is not obstructed.

That left us with one final goal: Getting going – far enough away that if feels like we have actually gone. That was a bit of a known mistake from the get-go, given the afternoon start. In the end, we made it in a crunch. 340km to a super lovely campsite in the French grand balloon region. A bit too much driving in one go, a bit late on the arrival, but necessary for our minds to feel like we are actually on the trip for real.

Setting up camp was almost as easy as imagined. Even though we arrived at 6pm, we had a full spaghetti-and-home-made-sauce dinner and were all in bed by 9pm. The temperatures at night explained why almost no one else is camping here this time of the year, though. It was about 1° C when we crawled into our plushie-down rooftop cave.

Bad mistake – should not let him have his nap before the car ride
Never too early for breakfast
Little upper for the road I guess …
mountains my wizard
That’s more like it. Fed and asleep
Dinner prep for first camp of the trip
Who can spot the momy?
so much space, amazing!

Day 295 – Grenzerfahrung

Last bit of road in Iran

Writing the blog post from two days ago in the morning, with the thoughts on returning home at the end, left us in a bit of a low mood after breakfast. Thus, packing took extra long this morning. Not a big deal, though. We had only 130 km to go to the border.

Near lunch time we hit the border town of Maku. We filled up one last time with the obscenely cheap fuel and sat down along the main road through that narrow valley for lunch. It is always good to tackle a border with all primary functions tended to. Just as we were doing some last minutes preparations (I forgot to take proof of my German bike insurance which is valid and required in Turkey) Iran decided to give us a very Iranian parting gift. A guy jumped out of a taxi, shoved a melon and some bananas into my unsuspecting hands and jumped back into the taxi with a “welcome to Iran!”. Now we had bananas and a melon to declare as well – and another amazing memory of Irani hospitality.

Random gift of bananas and a honey melon. A melon?!?

We reached the border shortly thereafter. By the looks of it, it is only ever used by thousands of trucks or pedestrians. There is a lane for passenger vehicle crossing, but all booths are abandoned and no one was to be seen. It was relatively easy after all. Dodge the hawkers, find an official and then get led to the equivalent desk in the pedestrian terminal through back doors. Maybe 45 minutes later we stood in front of the two gates that separate Iran from Turkey with all the required stamps. Iran opened its gate for us and we called over to the Turkish guys …

… and waited. A long while. The Turkish border guards who saw us after one minute played manly man games with the Iranians and us. They left us hanging for about 20 minutes before pushing the the button that would open the gate. What a great start. Smile and wave …

Note the line of truck starting at least 6km before the actual border

We had to work around a similar way on the Turkish side. Passport immigration police guy was only available in the passenger terminal, so through some more back doors we went and met Mr. Grumpy Number two. I will never understand why some guys feel the need to underline their authority with outward rudeness. It did not get better when he saw our German passports. “Deutsche? …” sneer … then he only stamped one passport and got really annoyed when I remarked that I would like to get an entry stamp, too. Smile and wave …

Great light and dark due to the rain clouds

Luckily customs guy did not know what to do, really, so our workaround regarding the insurance remained untested. I helped him with the carnet and off we went, into thick storm clouds on the horizon. We put our full rain gear on, ducked down and headed into the Kurdish town of Doĝubayazit. This grey border town had nothing to offer, neither phone shop nor ATM in sight, so we pushed on northwards along the border.

Our first sight in Turkey was the former Armenian capital of Ani. To get there, all roads lead through Kars, the regional center. En route there, I felt the strong need to answer nature’s call and we stopped on the first pass. Right then a van pulled over and four soldier type guys came out. One was a sergeant and had this way about asking what we were up to that showed suspicion hidden behind mere curiosity. We moved along.

The world appeared to end at the horizon so I, wisely, packed the camera away

The rain started for real beyond the pass, with lightning and thunder hitting left and right. It was cold, too, and just kept on getting colder as we got closer to Kars. The last pass went over 2300m, we were soaked and shivering by this point. Looking around there were still patches of snow on the ground…no wonder it was cold! We had done another 200 km on the Turkish side by then and stopped at a petrol station maybe 5km before the longed after hotel. The guys there took pity on us and shouted us a hot çay (tea). That got us the rest of the way through freezing rain without frostbite.

The hotel was cheap, which was the best to say about it, really. To make up for it, we went out that night to a really nice restaurant. What a treat – tablecloth, fresh bread and really good not-kebab food. Just what we needed to get the spirits back up again!