Tag Archives: lago di Garda

Day 21 – Low Energy

The usual reaction to any city we visit is: “Wow, that was fun. We can imagine coming here again.” Sometimes there may be a thought of: “Ok, we have seen this now.” But only a very few places manage to disappoint us so completely that they get added to the TIHI category. Bozen, well done, you became memorable to us in the worst possible way 😀

At least the day started well – the sun was in our backs now, so breaking camp was a much more relaxed and cooler affair than the setup last night.

diligent application of sunscreen – at least until BionTech has that skin-cancer vaccine fully figured out …

The plan is straightforward – we need to be in the Netherlands in four days. Well, we want to be – since long before we decided that Italy would be our best shot we made plans to visit old traveling friends at the end of this parental leave – same as we had done last time with Number 3. As the astute observer might notice: The Netherlands are not, strictly speaking, along the way to Frankfurt. But we were committed, felt we had done northern Italy enough justice and strapped in for some decent long distance travel (for European standards).

To avoid even more Covid-related paperwork and hassle, we would stop once right before the Austrian border still in Italy (well, the autonomous province of South Tyrol) and then pass through Austria in one day to avoid some hassle. That meant today was the first of four consecutive road trip days, and the shortest distance. With the EV, each of them should look roughly the same – first leg, quick charge lunch break, second leg, camp. We opted for the fastest route via the motorways rather than the scenic roads – we would probably need 2 more days to avoid pushing the little ones too much going scenic.

A roadside castle using a hill as an excellent defensible position

So, I planned ahead and saw that Italy did not really have fast chargers along the motorway, at rest stops like the rest of Europe, at least not here. If we needed to come off the toll road anyway, might as well add one more city, right? Bozen, the capital of the German speaking autonomous province of “Südtirol” was on our way, reached roughly at lunchtime. It had six public chargers marked within walking distance of the two recommended eateries on the Lonely Planet app – perfect, or so we thought.

With growing disbelief, I had to realise that every single public charger on the otherwise excellent app I am using has been removed. It seems, there are only three charge points left in Bozen, and they were A: in a paid parking garage and B: all in use, obviously. I have nothing against paying for parking if the chargers are available, but this was for me a clear indicator that we had made it back to fat old German-speaking climate-denier country.

It was late, we gave up – I mean our car has plenty of range – and settled on at least finding something to eat. We did, and again it was a beautiful reminder of what we hate about our own culture. All that was to say about the food at Gasthof Fink was that the portions are too big and they despise vegetarians. Would you like a triple layer Schnitzel, or two sad slices of undercooked eggplant for the same price, mam? Let’s leave it at that – we will not be back.

Our camp in Brixen without our car which was charging

Brixen, and the hotel / campground we chose as our stop for the day, turned out to be the light at the end of the tunnel, on the other hand. We arrived to excellent service, a really well-kept campground attached to the hotel and a nice pool. The reception offered that I could use the free guest chargers to top up the car before moving to our camp and then top it up with the 6A overnight. It was perfect, even though we looked a bit funny relaxing and cooking on our site amidst all our stuff but without the car. 

Day 20 – Padua II or some things deserve a second try

Today, we left our campground at the doorstep of Venice bright and early. We had good reason to be on the road at 9am. I had booked tickets to see the Scrovegni Chapel at 10.45am! We need to go in the direction of Padua anyway to start our way home and Flo said there would be time to see the frescoes if we got tickets. I was very happy about that.

Having said our goodbyes to Venice yesterday, we now said goodbye to the campground and our Swiss neighbours. Their dog had entertained our kids for many, many moments. Especially this morning, it meant that I could pack in relative peace.

look at this blue, and the stars in the “sky”

We left on time with the intension of having a second breakfast in Padua after having picked up the tickets. These plans changed, however, when we got into a traffic jam because of an accident further up the road. We wouldn’t be too late but there was no time for a second breakfast.

We kept Number 3 going with juice and snacks, while the Agent had pureed fruit to go. Because the frescoes are almost 700 years old by now, the athmosphere in the chappel has to be maintained and controlled very carefully. Moisture from sweat can lead to damages, including salt blossoms on the wall. Thus, the access is restricted (even more so in Covid times) and you have to sit in a room watching videos for at least 15 minutes to aclimatize and let your body adjust to the cool surrounding before you are even allowed in. The kids and Flo did quite well allowing me to do this rather kid-unfriendly procedure.

what a perfect match!

If you study art history, there is no way you haven’t had a lecture or a seminar on Giotto. To see it for real was pretty epic. Even if you’re ushered through and can only 15 minutes in the chapel. Even if the Agent got unhappy about halfway through and I carried her around telling her about virtues and vices. Yes, this was a win for me.

Afterwards, we went straight to a nice cafe for our second breakfast. It turned out to be rather fancy; it did have decaffeinated tea though which is a first in Italy. Number 3 surprised us a little with his wish to order macaroons. He successfully negotiated that he could have three though as this was the same price as one piece of cake and he devoured them all himself.

Afterwards, it was time to get going. The lago di Garda was our next destination. Still hungry, we got take-away sandwiches at a tiny place right next to the cafe that was recommended by the Lonely Planet. It was good value for money and we got huge sandwiches we could eat in the park right next to our parking garage. Number 3 even got a kids’ sized one with ham and cheese – which he also devoured dutifully.

Both kids slept through the car ride pretty much until we got to Lake Garda. It was hot by now and shade was hard to come by.

the lake right in fron of our campground

The campground turned out to be pretty, with views of the lake, and be entirely in the sun. I got grumpy until we had the awning up and there was at least some shade to be found. Sitting in the shade unmoving, waiting for the breeze to cool you down a little, the heat was becoming bearable again.

It wasn’t the kind of place with easy access to the lake. Flo and the kids checked out the lake but decided only to dip their toes a little. The kids were allowed to stay up late though, until the sun had disappeared behind the hills over at the far side of the lake. The tent was simply too hot to try and get them to sleep until then.