Tag Archives: Giotto

Day 20 – Padua II or some things deserve a second try

Today, we left our campground at the doorstep of Venice bright and early. We had good reason to be on the road at 9am. I had booked tickets to see the Scrovegni Chapel at 10.45am! We need to go in the direction of Padua anyway to start our way home and Flo said there would be time to see the frescoes if we got tickets. I was very happy about that.

Having said our goodbyes to Venice yesterday, we now said goodbye to the campground and our Swiss neighbours. Their dog had entertained our kids for many, many moments. Especially this morning, it meant that I could pack in relative peace.

look at this blue, and the stars in the “sky”

We left on time with the intension of having a second breakfast in Padua after having picked up the tickets. These plans changed, however, when we got into a traffic jam because of an accident further up the road. We wouldn’t be too late but there was no time for a second breakfast.

We kept Number 3 going with juice and snacks, while the Agent had pureed fruit to go. Because the frescoes are almost 700 years old by now, the athmosphere in the chappel has to be maintained and controlled very carefully. Moisture from sweat can lead to damages, including salt blossoms on the wall. Thus, the access is restricted (even more so in Covid times) and you have to sit in a room watching videos for at least 15 minutes to aclimatize and let your body adjust to the cool surrounding before you are even allowed in. The kids and Flo did quite well allowing me to do this rather kid-unfriendly procedure.

what a perfect match!

If you study art history, there is no way you haven’t had a lecture or a seminar on Giotto. To see it for real was pretty epic. Even if you’re ushered through and can only 15 minutes in the chapel. Even if the Agent got unhappy about halfway through and I carried her around telling her about virtues and vices. Yes, this was a win for me.

Afterwards, we went straight to a nice cafe for our second breakfast. It turned out to be rather fancy; it did have decaffeinated tea though which is a first in Italy. Number 3 surprised us a little with his wish to order macaroons. He successfully negotiated that he could have three though as this was the same price as one piece of cake and he devoured them all himself.

Afterwards, it was time to get going. The lago di Garda was our next destination. Still hungry, we got take-away sandwiches at a tiny place right next to the cafe that was recommended by the Lonely Planet. It was good value for money and we got huge sandwiches we could eat in the park right next to our parking garage. Number 3 even got a kids’ sized one with ham and cheese – which he also devoured dutifully.

Both kids slept through the car ride pretty much until we got to Lake Garda. It was hot by now and shade was hard to come by.

the lake right in fron of our campground

The campground turned out to be pretty, with views of the lake, and be entirely in the sun. I got grumpy until we had the awning up and there was at least some shade to be found. Sitting in the shade unmoving, waiting for the breeze to cool you down a little, the heat was becoming bearable again.

It wasn’t the kind of place with easy access to the lake. Flo and the kids checked out the lake but decided only to dip their toes a little. The kids were allowed to stay up late though, until the sun had disappeared behind the hills over at the far side of the lake. The tent was simply too hot to try and get them to sleep until then.

Day 17 – Flashbacks

Where others might spend their whole holiday, today must suffice for us on this campground. Venice is calling. Slowly but surely, we have built up genuine excitement for the Floating City. But before the leaving comes the packing. We took our good time. There are still some stragglers holding on to the last bit of moisture from our washing misadventure. Plus, the remaining distance to our Venetian base will be covered in no time on the autostrade. I did not share the reasons for my laid back-ness with Nina entirely, so she was a bit stressed out when I gave in to Number 3’s request for a final playground visit.

Good morning Alba! – Good morning Agent!

But, as these things go – after we had had a brief chat to set the expectations straight it turned out it was quite fortunate. A few newer arrivals were also playing – and as the Agent of Entropy had another chance to socialize with the little ones, Number 3 got the chance to tag along for some livestock exploration adventure (he took off with the others all on his own, with our permission). He talked a lot about this little adventure. Even with those “delays”, we left at 10am and arrived at the targeted Padua parking garage by 10.45am.  

I did not technically need a lot of charging, but when I saw that they had EV marked parking with unmetered power outlets, I thought – must try. Unfortunately, they were not only unmetered but also unpowered :/

The string of disappointment hit its crescendo though when we, after some looking around, found the entrance to our top ticket item in the itinerary for today: The Scrovegni Chapel, full of masterpiece frescoes by Giotto. Nina’s home turf – as a master of art history (literally, btw) would not let us in today – tickets had to be booked one day in advance. Nina was, justifiably, gutted. The deal was that we do a quick highlights’ stint, with art history for Nina and natural science history for me. I felt really bad now – even more so when this hitch prompted us to double check for the next item, the Palazzo Bo of the University of Padua, and snatch the last few tickets for the only guided tour in English available to us today. Spain should have taught us a lesson, we mused, but so far Italy has just been too effortless in this regard and we had let our guard down. Well, that and the lack of a physical Lonely Planet guidebook to plan.

Waiting to feed these hungry hippos

The starting time for the tour allowed only for a quick lunch, but gladly the Lonely Planet app came to the rescue here. We dived into a real cool and friendly student bar / noodle house and got good quality lunch of carbonara, cacio e pepe and a poke bowl for under 30 €. Thus, fully reenergized we crossed our fingers for the hobbits’ stamina to hold and headed for the tour.

What a great tour it was. Of course, the big ticket items of “the podium from which a young Galileo Galilei had lectured” and the “world’s very first anatomical theater” were really cool. But the big thing for me was the history of the redesign in the 40s at the hands of Gio Ponti. Seeing what an architect and designer can accomplish when given the reins to do so is impressive. More so remembering that he did not work with a blank canvas, but an in parts 600-year-old structure at the time. The respect he payed for the past while also creating really cool designs will stick with me for a while.

Professors’ club room

Now a 45-minute guided tour that stretched in to 90 minutes in the end is quite the stretch for two younglings. They were a bit to manage at times, but we were able to do the full tour and all but the especially rude French lady on the tour put up with us with friendly encouragement. Thank you kids – that was amazing.

It was also our curtain call for Padua, even skipping the usual “gelato and go” routine. We did stop one more time, with both little ones fast asleep in the car, about 5 minutes from the campground to restock on ice for the cooler and a few essentials.

The campground – for a city camp chosen mostly out of convenience rather than the place itself – turned out to be amazing. Really fair price for Italy, our second cheapest yet, it has maybe the cleanest and sleekest facilities yet. We had Number 3 in a heartbeat when he saw that they have a whole bathroom, shower included, with every item in kid size. From there on, he demanded for every trip that he would only go in “his bathroom”. Seems like a good omen. Tomorrow – the Queen of the Adriatic.