Tag Archives: castle

Day 24 – Castle Rock

Our not so glamorous campsite didn’t get more shiny in the morning. We got to use the campers’ kitchen which is always helpful as a jug is so much easier than boiling water on our camping stove. On the down side, the Agent spilled her glass of milk and we had to clean up. 😉

Trying to feed a very brave and cheeky little birdy

Before we left, we had a great conversation with a French family. They were super nice, the kids were inquisitive and looked into our tent and they gave us recommendations for our time in Brittany next week.

Today’s goal was to take it waaaaaay slower than we had done lately. Just looking at where we’ve been in the last week makes my head spin. Slowly but surely we’re coming to the end of the Irish part of our holiday. The biggest ticket item on our “to do” list now is Dublin. From the far south, we’re going to drive part of the way there today. Along the way, Cashel is a good point to stop and the Rock of Cashel is highly recommended too.

We were lucky enough to prebook the campsite in Cashel which took a lot of stress out of the day. Get there, look around, set up camp, done. Getting there was a bit of a challenge as it meant more than two hours straight in the car for the kids. That’s always a harder sell.

The “backside”: The tower is the oldest part, the rest is the cathedral

We broke it up with lunch next to a charger. Unfortunately, we seem to have lost the Agent’s hat there. L I hate losing things.

After lunch, the kids could take a nap while Flo and I took a small detour through the Glen of Aherlow. It consisted of a scenic drive, more time for the kids to sleep and time to listen to our audiobook.

Then, we arrived at the Rock of Cashel. Cashel is the anglisized version of the Irish word for castle. It describes a castle on a rock from the 12^th century. Just looking at it from below gave us flashbacks to Carcassonne even if it is way smaller. We walked in, bought tickets and learnt that the free guided tour had started 20 minutes ago. We could try to catch up with them (it’s not a big place) or wait 40 minutes for the next one. Given that we have small kids, we opted for the first option. I love that the guided tours are for free. Number 3 listened very well to the English talk and repeated some of the facts afterwards: The round tower is the oldest part of the castle. The big cross got hit by lightning and that’s why the top is in pieces, lying on the ground now.

It’s pretty cool to see your kid do this. Maybe history will be one of his interests one day.

We finished the guided tour and then walked around the perimeter for a bit. Since I wouldn’t allow the kids to balance on the graves, they soon lost interest in more walking. Happy that we got most of the guided tour, we left in search for coffee. Since it was Sunday, the recommended cafe was closed when we got there. None of the other places looked inviting, most were kiosks selling ice cream.

Taking it slower is also paraphrasing “getting to the campsites earlier”. Which is exactly what we did. We pulled up at the campsite and had coffee there. I mean, we made the best choice really, as the campground was literally underneath the Rock of Cashel and you had a view of the castle and a ruined abbey a bit further away. We got to enjoy the view for a couple of hours now.

Number 3 instantly made friends on the playground and the Agent just refuses to acknowledge that she’s younger. She is always in the thick of it, too.

In the evening, we even managed to have that postponed gaming session as reception was really good here.

The Rock on Cashel in twilight. We were so lucky to be on this campsite!

Day 19 – Drifting around

The Forest Park was a nice spot and both kids were keen to go back to the playbus. So we took our time this morning to blog a little, let the kids play and go on a walk through the forest. The small loop track that Flo had picked didn’t lead through the forest unfortunately but meandered through the Arboretum of a now-abandoned manor house. Not quite what we had in mind for this morning.

Both kids absolutely loved the short walk through the forest. Number 3 made up fairy stories about their houses and furniture

From here, we went back to the coastal route. It was nearly lunch time already. After stocking up on groceries in a tiny supermarket (and gummybears. Always gummybears. Grandma had given a tiny bucket full of them to the kids before we left and it needs to be refilled regularly), Flo followed a roadside viewpoint sign to Carrigafoyle Castle. Another lovely picnic spot for us plus a “castle” for Number 3 to explore. It was actually quite cool to see how much of the ruin you could still explore.

Further down the coast we went, now in the county of Kerry. Kerry is full of things to do and see…just not right here. So we continued until we hit Tralee. The Lonely Planet recommended the Tralee Bay Wetlands Centre as an activity plus a location for coffee. We got to the parking lot, plugged in the charger and nearly collapsed. With the sleeping kids in the back, we seriously considered just taking a nap. Instead, Flo and I planned the next campground. The response we got was encouraging, basically saying “no need to book there will be spaces on the day”. This is our preferred way of travelling so I’m quite happy we can just see how far we get and then check for campsites there.

Finally, we went in. It was actually quite lovely to just walk around in the wetland. We saw a heron and a moorhen with chicks and lots of things that are common in Ireland. Number 3 had a sheet with all the flora you could see and the Agent had a sheet with all the birds you could spot…both of them took their jobs seriously.

Getting coffee was a harder task. The cafe in the Wetlands Centre was closed, the first recommended cafe in Tralee as well. In the end, we wandered around and had coffee in one of the many coffee places the pedestrian zone had to offer.

Our next scheduled campground was at Inch Beach at the start of the Dingle Peninsular loop. It had been a weird day without any real highlight but a lot of things to see anyway, so I was happy to just hit the campground a little earlier than we usually do.

It is right opposite the beach. The weather was still fine and I opted that we’re going to see the beach in sunshine. Flo protested meekly because going to the beach now meant we couldn’t cook dinner and had to improvise. However, the kids ran around ecstatically so this time, Flo also put his feet in the ocean.

On the way back, we chose convenient dinner from a fish & chips food truck at our campground. Expecting the usual grub, this one pleasantly surprised us with its quality. They only need to work on their trucks presentation a bit …

Most of the trees along the fairy trail were enchanted in some way

Day 5 – Scottish Green

The day started unplanned and too early. Wind and rain had picked up over night and had me worried at time for our awning, still up. At 5am it turned out, the worries were not entirely unfounded. I woke to a new noise, unfamiliar even over the drumming of rain and wind so far. The constant rumble of wind had finally rattled open the zipper connecting the awning to our tent. Luckily, the pegs still held, so it was flapping wet and helplessly in the wind like a sea bird in an oil spill.

first thing checking if the animals are all still there

Nina and I got up in our PJs and jumped to the rescue. At least it was warm enough to not get cold and miserable while doing so. With the awning saved, storm cover installed we went back to bed.

At getting up time proper, the rain had let up enough for us to feel safe enough to bring the awning back up. After a bit of a rough night, the kids indulged on chocolate spread on the last bit of sourdough.

From here on, days will be decidedly less rushed with much less distance planned for each day. Today, only 250km to the last camp in Britain before leaving to Ireland. We took our good time, but the weather kind of helped to speed us on regardless. So even with another good animal watching session we managed to be back on the road by 9am. The weather had not improved much further and was not expected to before noon. We decided to turn this into an opportunity and go for a second breakfast in the first Scottish town on our way, Dumfries. The lonely planet app was helpful as always and provided a recommendation for great coffee and a good snack.

At the café, we weighted our options and decided to go for castle over forest park this time. Not too much of a tough choice when the option is called “Drumlanrig Castle Adventure Playground & Gardens”. The 17^th century Drumlanrig Castle proper was closed today, but the gardens and playground area was open and right the level of exercise needed for our kids. After a good session in the playground area, we got to explore the neatly maintained gardens as well. As it was past lunch (and nap) time now but both were still on pretty great behaviour and everyone got a round of treats before we moved on for the last bit.

As we had travelled north a bit from Dumfries, we were now heading across westwards off the main A75 on mostly single track roads and straight through the Galloway Forest Park towards our camp. Both kids fell asleep and Nina got carsick. I take that as a compliment of my driving. We did not stop again in the national park, which was a bit of a shame. But it was getting into the afternoon and Balloch O’dee campground promised to be a place to explore in its own right.

The campground definitively held up to the expectations. Great grass pitches with plenty of space to set up. The grounds, clearly inspired by the owner, gave of a splendidly relaxed vibe. To top it all off, there were plenty of fire pits all over the area, an indicator of how the day will end for us.

Number 3 once again made a new friend within the first 10 minutes and was on his absolute best behaviour for the rest of the afternoon. I could hardly have refused him when he asked to be allowed to have a bonfire as well after our quick and simple dinner (still getting great value out of that Iranian breakfast dish we picked up all those years ago), could I?

He bought the firewood and we agreed to have the bedtime stories at the campfire instead of in the tent. After putting the little ones to bed, Nina and I let the day fade out going through the remaining logs in our bag of fire wood. The sun had gone down and we got to chat, make a few plans and call it a night.

Day 32 – „Baby first!“

Flo didn’t catch on to my cliffhanger there. The spare part arrived safe and sound in the morning of our rest day so that we were relaxed and free to make more plans from thereon out.

Unfortunately, the night brought rather disrupted sleep for us. More crying because of teeth and more applying pain relief gel in the middle of the night.

templar church based on jerusalem temples

Thus, we were rather tired in the morning…and unmotivated to pack. Since we had two options today, we chose the lazy one: Just pack the tent so we have a car to explore Tomar and then come back to the lovely camp ground for one more night. If you like it somewhere, just stay longer. 🙂

We were in Tomar at about 11 o’clock. The sight to see here is the Convento de Cristo, the headquarters of the knights Templar. On the way in, it didn’t seem too busy but there still was a queue for tickets. In sunshine, making it rather hot. Flo decided that we wouldn’t try the “cut the line because of baby” card here as it would be maybe half an hour until we got tickets anyway. I grumbled a bit but ok.

Just when I thought that we might get into trouble with our timing “we will be too late for lunch”, “did we put enough money into our parking ticket, this might take a while”, a member of staff put his head out of the window and yelled “Baby first!” when he saw Flo, followed by a wave of the hand that we should come to the front desk and get tickets. It was quite funny actually. And while my thoughts were still in the queue, we were actually already in the headquarters.

I thoroughly enjoyed our visit there. However, my knowledge about the knights Templar is limited and it felt a bit like visiting a pirate ship. The knights are so prominent in media (movies, games) that I had trouble not imagining it as a set. XD

A bit more than an hour later, we moved on into the city to find a place for lunch. Tomar is a pretty small town and Number 3 enjoyed walking along the cobblestone lanes, charming everyone we passed. He had a “courage upgrade” some time ago and would now roam further away from us and around corners and out of line of sight. Despite being great, it is exhausting as it means, we now have to follow our baby rather than the other way around.

Lunch was lovely. We had a great waiter who entertained Number 3 quite a bit as well as fellow patrons who waved and smiled and played hide and seek with him.

A short stroll through the park later, we went back to the camp ground. A little bit more rest for us before we had another evening of games via skype with our German friends.

maybe I’ll catch this one?
Better chance with twooooo …
cool arrow slits
the incline below the wall is a muslim import
templar church based on jerusalem temples
all about the detail
no sign unread
blue tiles, a 17th century addition
temple in front of monastery
some parts lay in ruin
keen observer
cool decorum
orignal painting in the temple church
upgrades over time pushed this to quite impressive
another austentatiatory
16th century part of the monastery
money buys cool things
movie set decoration
hall of the dormatory
famous window to the churches extension
more love for details
more of the newer part
Nomnom … love chocolate!
light strolls
such a lovely little town
even I like it!
thanks, it was quite pleasant

Day 286 – Over the hills and far away

Another bright and sunny day!

The night had been slightly eerie as we could hear the wolves howl. I was happy when the sun was back up and we could pack and leave. I know that there were enough sheep around that no wolf would be interested in us but still…

All of today was dedicated to exploring the Alamut valley. We started with a stint to Evan Lake which was the back-up camping option yesterday. Arriving at the tiny lake with lots of rubbish at the shore and almost no privacy, we were glad that we’d camped in the fields. However, on the way out we met a retired French couple doing an overland trip in a 4WD. They were lovely even though the conversation was in French (go Flo!) and gave us the coordinates of a possible campsite further on.

almost back on the main road now

The next “attraction” in the Lonely Planet is a road that leads through or alongside canyons. Flo found a loop that we could ride to not double up and so we went in on river-level. First, we follow the road along the ride with the cliff side to your right. It was hard to photograph as the sun was right behind the cliffs. After a while, the road starts to wind up into the mountains. From here, you can look into the valley with the canyons below. Again, we saw the tents of nomads up here.

Full service overland adventure …

On route to Alamut Castle, the next of the famed Assassins’ castles, we saw a group of overlanders parked in a little side alley. They rode down from Switzerland in a tour, complete with support vehicle full of spare parts and tires, and will continue for a month. Thus, they were in a bit of a hurry…once a flat tire was fixed. We talked to them until we were near melting, standing in full gear in the sun.

A quick roadside lunch at the Alamut Castle parking lot prepared us for the hike up to the castle. The “Assassins” were prosecuted and thus quite paranoid when they built their castles here: There is no easy entrance and no easy siege. The mountainside is steep so the narrow staircase is the only way up (the second entrance has been destroyed).

one wing of the castle. Must have been decently manned

Alamut Castle is the one with a bit more structure remaining but it is also the one where you have to pay a fee and most of it is covered in scaffolding. We were a bit disappointed, yesterday’s castle had much more to offer.

Technically, the “attractions” end here. There is a pass leading out of the valley all the way to the Caspian Sea but the Lonely Planet only describes it for hiking. The French overlander couple from his morning came in that way and while the views are gorgeous, they said the road was in bad condition and muddy. They were happy to have 4WD. Thus, I was not keen to go that way. However, coming from Alamut valley, most of the road up is sealed. Flo wanted to go as high up as possible…fair enough. First, the road continued on in the valley in a rather unimpressive way. When the incline finally started, the road became interesting again. Up and up and up and up. When we seemed to be level with the snow-capped mountains on the other side of the valley, the tarmac ended and Flo stopped as promised. We took a couple of pictures of the valley, Rocinante and us before heading back down.

The ‘final’ view – pretty cool

It was late enough to look for a camping spot but we were lacking in the important departments of food, water and fuel. So we hopped from village to village hoping to remedy these lacks without having to go too far. The first shop, with a lovely owner, had water, eggs and veggies for us. Good start but not all we needed. Again, he gave us the things for half the price and a toffee on top. The next village supplied cheese and bread but fuel was only available in the third village. By now it felt late. The first possible spot next to a field of wheat was ours.

Flo cooked the tomato-egg dish for me that Azemeh had made for breakfast all those days ago. It worked well and was delicious with bread and the seed mixture that Azemeh had given us as well. Well fed, we had a short visit by a shepherd asking for water before settling in for the night.

: Another bright and sunny day!

: Heading east, towards the rising sun

: Alamut valley is famous for it’s rice terraces. Did not expect to see those again so soon.

: Nice and circular in a way. Sheep are equally stupid all around the world

: Turn off number 1

: Lovely couple. Unfortunately, we forgot to ask for their names.

: Most impressive from afar

: back on the main road

: they were pretty impressive

: but the light was not right

: the other side was right, but less impressive

: random turtle on the road – pretty high up actually

: The ridge road on the other side gave us better views

: looking good from up here

: the road we took in seen from above

: And always the snow capped mountains once you are a bit up

: almost back on the main road now

: Hard to focus on the road – but we were going slow

: Pickups are the new camels / donkeys

: one last look at the canyons from above

: Full service overland adventure …

: It was steeper than it looks

: The final steps up the castle

: Not much to see – protective scaffolding from anno 1984

: the wind blew nicely through this dugout towards a lookout point

: the view to be defended

: there are a lot of them around, and pretty big

: one wing of the castle. Must have been decently manned

: fooling around at the edge

: it will be sad once the underpuff is gone

: first time we got a good photo

: almost at the end, after this, the road goes up over the pass

: white peaks peeking

: that motorcycle magazine shot at the end of today’s route

: The ‘final’ view – pretty cool

: looks like gravel, but is very dirty tarmac

: no matter how high you go, someone will always have brought up some lifestock

: It even had a neat waterfall

: checking where to put the then, I promise

: The creation was actually pretty good

: chasing the signal at dusk

Day 257 – Triumphs and setbacks

Leaving our camping spot near the sand dunes in the morning

It was still hot in the morning, probably even 30°C. The ground did not cool down either and still felt warm to the touch. We got up as early as we could and went through our morning routine in a hurry. Back on the road it was just bearable. We really chose the last possible time to do Oman reasonably comfortable on a motorbike. Temperature-wise it would be perfect December to March, but at least so we dodge most of the other tourists.

We reached Nizwa by about 10 am. We could have had lunch then, but decided to do the tour of the old town first, this time.

Looking down into the inner yard

The local fort and castle were pretty impressive and very neatly restored and presented. We also had a stroll around the old town, with its mud-brick houses and gardens full of date palms and vegetables. The equally renovated souq had to wait a bit though, since by then our stomachs were loudly demanding attention.

With a full stomach and an equally saturated mind, we were ready to tackle the road up the Saiq plateau on Jebel Akhdar. The road is a famously tough drive and only permitted by 4WD. We wanted to camp up there and explore a bit more tomorrow. We should not get any further than the police check-point at the foot of the pass, though. Only 4WD … no motorcycle … why? Because these are the rules. Of course he believed our bike could do it … we did too, we have ridden in Timor-Leste and Sumatra. No, the rules. Could have gotten a special permit from the Ministry in Muscat, but did not know.

A couple of kilometers further in we had to turn around at the check point

So once again, we got turned away. Not because there is a good reason or safety concern, but just because bikes like ours are an afterthought and it’s not worth having proper regulation for them. We were so gutted. Jebel Akhdar is the only place in Oman where rosewater is produced, and the roses would be in full bloom right now …

After half an hour of sulking and having insult to injury added by hawkers trying to pimp us a ride in their 4×4 for $140 we decided to continue on with the route we had planned for tomorrow and just pick a camp spot when it was time.

View into the direction we have come from

It got better again then, as we rode up the beautiful road to the mountain village of Hat. It was sealed all the way to the top and down to Hat on the other side and would continue from there as a graded gravel track to the other side up at the coast. But we still wanted to go up Jebal Shams, which is best accessed from the south, so we turned around at the top of the road.

On our way up we saw a bunch of lovely camp spots near the road. Most of them had weekend picnickers when we came up, but a really nice shaded spot had freed up in the meantime. So we pitched out tent on the flanks of a different mountain than we thought. It was lovely and beautiful and nice and cool (up 1500m) and anything we could ask for, so we were happy again. Not even the horrible dinner (spaghetti bought in Muscat a week ago) could spoil it for us.