Leaving our camping spot near the sand dunes in the morning
It was still hot in the morning, probably even 30°C. The ground did not cool down either and still felt warm to the touch. We got up as early as we could and went through our morning routine in a hurry. Back on the road it was just bearable. We really chose the last possible time to do Oman reasonably comfortable on a motorbike. Temperature-wise it would be perfect December to March, but at least so we dodge most of the other tourists.
We reached Nizwa by about 10 am. We could have had lunch then, but decided to do the tour of the old town first, this time.
Looking down into the inner yard
The local fort and castle were pretty impressive and very neatly restored and presented. We also had a stroll around the old town, with its mud-brick houses and gardens full of date palms and vegetables. The equally renovated souq had to wait a bit though, since by then our stomachs were loudly demanding attention.
With a full stomach and an equally saturated mind, we were ready to tackle the road up the Saiq plateau on Jebel Akhdar. The road is a famously tough drive and only permitted by 4WD. We wanted to camp up there and explore a bit more tomorrow. We should not get any further than the police check-point at the foot of the pass, though. Only 4WD … no motorcycle … why? Because these are the rules. Of course he believed our bike could do it … we did too, we have ridden in Timor-Leste and Sumatra. No, the rules. Could have gotten a special permit from the Ministry in Muscat, but did not know.
A couple of kilometers further in we had to turn around at the check point
So once again, we got turned away. Not because there is a good reason or safety concern, but just because bikes like ours are an afterthought and it’s not worth having proper regulation for them. We were so gutted. Jebel Akhdar is the only place in Oman where rosewater is produced, and the roses would be in full bloom right now …
After half an hour of sulking and having insult to injury added by hawkers trying to pimp us a ride in their 4×4 for $140 we decided to continue on with the route we had planned for tomorrow and just pick a camp spot when it was time.
View into the direction we have come from
It got better again then, as we rode up the beautiful road to the mountain village of Hat. It was sealed all the way to the top and down to Hat on the other side and would continue from there as a graded gravel track to the other side up at the coast. But we still wanted to go up Jebal Shams, which is best accessed from the south, so we turned around at the top of the road.
On our way up we saw a bunch of lovely camp spots near the road. Most of them had weekend picnickers when we came up, but a really nice shaded spot had freed up in the meantime. So we pitched out tent on the flanks of a different mountain than we thought. It was lovely and beautiful and nice and cool (up 1500m) and anything we could ask for, so we were happy again. Not even the horrible dinner (spaghetti bought in Muscat a week ago) could spoil it for us.
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Leaving our camping spot near the sand dunes in the morning
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The sun isn’t really high yet but already super warm
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Very pretty in the morning as well
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Still featureless, still going 120 kmh
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Look, look, mountains in the distance!
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A stroll through the old, mud-brick part of the city of Nizwa
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It is the first time any of the old resident structures still remain. Picturesque sight.
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The outer fort wall with a bit of a garden in the back
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Still in the entrance, Flo read every sign
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The inner yard
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There was four wells inside the fort which makes it un-siege-able.
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The massive round tower is the actual fort. Only this narrow staircase with murder holes and trap doors leads in
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Many windows are available for gun placements
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Looking down into the inner yard
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View down on the city from the battlements. The souq is on the left
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The only picture we took of the battlement. So we had to use it despite of my squinting
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An exhibit in the basement of the fort
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The whole ornate outfit…also an exhibit in the basement
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Pottery marks this as either kitchen or dining room
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Pottery hanging on the walls
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This room has carpets and books so probably a prayer room?
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The most relaxed cat ever having a siesta at the fort entrance trying to cool down
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The gate to the souq area. There are thematically separated souqs behind it
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Nizwa mosque
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A couple of kilometers further in we had to turn around at the check point
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Continuing with our program…after getting over the disappointment
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Can’t be sad for long in such a landscape
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It looked like the caves were closed for a while already
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Back on the road to Hat which has a viewing platform further up
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View into the direction of Hat
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So amazing!
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View into the direction we have come from
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Oman is just stunning
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Rock formation above the viewing platform
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The close-up of a wadi
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One of the picnic spots was perfect for camping
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Enjoying the view from a spot further up the mountain flank
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Spaghetti must have been made with the wrong flour or so. Water dissolved them into a mash
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Cookie time! Watching the sunset at our camping spot
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Still pretty, even if we get to see the sun set every day now
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That’s me watching!
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Done with the cookies, getting on with watching the sunset
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Perched on a rock to actually see anything
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Sun set over the mountains
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