“My name is Darius, King of Kings, King of the Universe”
Persepolis. I have known this name for more years than not. Capital of the Achaemenid Persian Empire under Darius and Xerxes. The way we travel, we usually only learn about what there is to see a week or so in advance. There are a handful of places though that stand above this. Places like Uluru, Borobudur, Angkor Wat … and Persepolis. Today we went just there.
Teamed up with Jan for this day trip which is a good opportunity for riding pictures
We joined up with Jan, who we had met on the ferry, for this day trip, as he is also in town and keen to do the trip. The site is an easy 60 km from the center of Shiraz along the road to Esfahan. We arrived there by 10 am and parked the bikes right at the entrance car park to get changed (small mistake, more later). The admission price for foreign tourists is steep, at $10 NZ per person, given the average meal costs us about $5 for two.
The site itself consists of several structures in varying states of conservation or reconstruction. All this is set on a massive level platform, half cut out of the hillside, half build up with massive stone blocks. When Alexander the Great burned the city to the ground and looted the treasury, there was still room to spare for a palace or two. As a bonus, behind the platform up the hillside are two huge tombs cut straight into the rock face.
This represents about the level of care taken at this site …
Overall, we both were a bit underwhelmed by the site and the presentation. It is always amazing to stand in the presence of such an historic place, but we felt clearly lacking in information. The sparse signs, some of them missing, had barely more information than half the guidebook entry on the site. By the looks of it, most archaeological work had stopped in 1979 and not much has changed since.
Maybe the Persepolis Museum housed in the badly restored “harem” of Xerxes (think AC’s visibly sticking to the outside) held some more solid info, but another $10 each were too steep for us to be tempted to try. So we left, with all the great photos of this epic place we could wish for, in search for food.
The remainder of the second gate
We did, literally, pay the price for not negotiating the price for parking before we went in. At first, they asked for a ludicrous amount – 10x of what was on the sign (in Farsi) for cars. In the end, both Jan and we paid more than we should have and were a bit frustrated with ourselves.
Jan was keen to visit Naqsh-e Rustam, a necropolis cut into the rock about 12 km from Persepolis. We failed to find food on the way, but did find a minor site with some bas relief carvings instead. At Naqsh-e Rustam, we turned back once more at the entrance due to the steep entrance fee. $20 to see the tomb of Darius the Great? Maybe 3 months ago, but now … we can’t get ourselves to pay that. Funny how we are developing the same kind of attitude that we frowned upon in other travellers a year ago …
We made our way back home alone then, leaving the tombs to Jan to explore. Food is still hard to come by for Nina. After two tries, we gave up and bought supplies for a picnic. There were some nice spots overlooking Shiraz on the way. When we got back there though, it had started raining once again. We went, with picnic supplies and all, back to our room and collapsed for a while.
Nina was not feeling so well, so we stayed in for the rest of the day and did some overdue homework instead, updating the blog and checking our emails.
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Teamed up with Jan for this day trip which is a good opportunity for riding pictures
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Even from far away, it is grand…and full of tourists
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Brits can’t behave themselves…find something and deface it with their name… =P
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….okay, Germans do the same…but they’re very meticulous in their defacing…
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The official Farsi text
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What is left of the guardians of the gate…a mix of horse, eagle and a man’s face
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Not much left of the actual face
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The remainder of the second gate
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Griffin capitell
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A look along all the remaining gates and pillars
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Scrambling up a hill to get an overview
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Mountain side tomb of Artaxerxes I…showing a fire ritual, we think
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Note: The door has been broken open but it’s forbidden to go in
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Xerxes holding court
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Trying to revive the old art…chiseling a face
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Another hill for a view
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We are unsure who is buried here
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It’s quite a big lizard!
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Just the bases of the pillars remain
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The pillar pieces just lie around
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Friezes on a stone block
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Cuneiform
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Courtiers waiting for an audience with the king
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Emissaries from tributary kingdoms paying their respects
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Don’t look a gift camel in the mouth …
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Quite eerie
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Time gets even the mightiest lion
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looks a bit like molten wax
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One of the restored palaces
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Old Persian, Neo-Babylonian and Elamite text in cuniform script
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The sign is about the size of the site 😉
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A tomb mural at Naqsh-e Rajab
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Just a look from afar…too expensive for our tastes
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