Category Archives: Tourism

Day 17 – Cliffs of Disappointment

We couldn’t wait to leave the campground in Galway. It didn’t feel welcoming at all. Instead, you had to pay for a hot shower and in the morning, we realized you even had to pay to use the campers’ kitchen. That was just a little too much for us. Even so, we met a friendly fellow traveller at breakfast to swap stories with. He’s lived in New Zealand for the last 23 years and he just joined our conversation when Flo was going on about the (Path of) Exile Con in Auckland next year.

We weren’t too sure what we’d get to do today. Planning wasn’t really in the cards as we didn’t even know where we’d end up sleeping yesterday. But there were plenty of options.

Number 3 had bugged us about wanting to see a castle for a while. We agreed in principle though somehow the time wasn’t right. Dunguaire Castle was on our way today…we didn’t stop. Again, it just didn’t seem right for today. We had just left Galway.

In the end, our first proper stop was my pick: Hazel Mountain Chocolate factory. Flo and I had already agreed on skipping the factory tour. Buying chocolate in a factory outlet is a totally different thing though. When we got there, a tour bus had just pulled in so we swerved a little and sat down in the café before hitting the store. The café was lovely, serving hot drinks and baked goods, full of chocolatey goodness. All of it came in lovely pottery, making the experience extra cute. As you can imagine, I was happy. The kids seemed happy, too.

In the store, the tour was about to start. What had they done all this time? Shopping? Anyhow, the tour guide invited us to come along which was amazingly friendly of her. Flo and I listened for a bit but it is hardly our first chocolate factory tour. So we browsed the wares, turning around whenever something cool turned up in the talk. Number 3 got to smell cocoa beans, Flo got a handful of single origin chocolate to try. When the kids waved at the lady busy with actually making chocolates, she came out and rewarded both of them with chocolate covered marshmallows. A visit can’t be more of a win than this.

Flo picked the next point of interest for today: The Burren National park. The Burren are a stony landscape that you can walk through or in our case, drive through. Flo is a fan of limestone so he was particularly looking forward to this part. At a road side car park, we got out to check out if we could walk around for a bit. Per chance, we’d stopped right next to the beginning of seven hiking trails, two of which were marked as easy and loop walks of only about 1.5km. Number 3 picked the white one which we walked in its entirety. We hadn’t actually planned a walk here. Thus, lunch had to be improvised. We had spaghetti leftovers at the roadside with recently bought chocolate for dessert. 😊

County Clare’s big draw are the cliffs of Moher though. The Lonely Planet (which I’ve been reading way more than Flo) already instilled caution in me, given its description of the place. In fact, they turned out to be the cliffs of disappointment. It’s a gigantic tourist attraction, no question. You queue to pay your ticket fee, are ushered to your parking spot, walk with the crowd to the wall separating you from the cliff edge, take a couple of pictures and leave again. Yes, the cliffs are high and yes, they are steep. The experience is almost lost in the crowds. Sliabh Liag was way more atmospheric than this. The best way to see the cliffs of Moher is probably by boat. We just didn’t want to spend that kind of cash on it. It’s not cheap.

From here, our campsite slowly came to mind. We’d booked a site in Doonbeg without electricity (nothing else was available) so the car needed to be charged if we wanted to start early tomorrow morning. The charger in Lahinch was luckily available (after a 10 minute wait), which even gave the kids an excuse to put their feet in the ocean one more time.

The Strand Camping Doonbeg wasn’t used to one night travellers. At least everything was set up to feel much more long term. Still happy that we had a place to sleep, we set up before the rain, had a lovely shower and brought the kids to bed.

I kept threatening to throw them over – they still trust me 😀

Day 20 – The weirdest melange

It had rained the whole night. The damp meadow that we sat upon had turned into a muddy bog. Yuck, is the word that comes to mind. Flo took out the first chair to set up for breakfast, looked at the mud, looked at me shaking my head and said “hang on a minute”. Luckily, he found a wooden picnic spot with table, benches and roof about 100 meters from our tent. Right next to the playground in fact. It was such a relief that we didn’t have to put all our stuff into the mud and then clean it before putting it back into the car. J We had to carry things there but they did not get muddy. In fact, while Flo was wearing his jandals, he suggested that I should just stay barefoot as I’d ruin any pair of shoes that I’d put on anyways. I did. It’s been a long time since I put my feet in the mud like that. 😀 I had a bigger problem with the slugs though…barefoot.

Good bye to you too – I hope the next one is as nice …

Anyhow, we ate and then started to pack. The Agent of Entropy decided to bring more entropy to the table. She sat down in the mud, splashing both her hands in the puddles, looking like a little piglet before I could even get to her. Oh well. She stayed that way until we were finished with packing. Then, I took her to the showers to clean my feet and her.

Finally, finally, a bit later than we’d wanted to, we were on the road. Since we picked the next campground close to Düsseldorf, we had a shortish day in the car. Maybe 3.5-4 hours of driving. We aimed to get to the campground around 3ish. From there, we picked a lunch spot that was in a good location, time-wise and in terms of the kilometres we’d already done. It turned out to be a rest stop on a bridge so both sides of the autobahn could access it. One more fast food stop it is then. This one didn’t even have the vegetarian option that we (even Flo) usually go for, just fries and chilli cheese nuggets. (Flo: yeah, PBWopper – now eating junk does not have to come with a side of tortured animal any longer :D)

A rather disappointing lunch and some time on the playground later, we got back into the car. We still had a way to go. I tried calling the campground but their reception was closed from lunchtime till 3pm. So we just drove to the Kerstgenshof campground. There were quite a lot of people in the parking lot, probably all waiting for the reception to open. Flo managed to be second in line and we got a campsite with electricity.

we can do basically the same, right? Thats AoEs attitude to playgrounds with Number 3

Setting up, actually just stopping there, we realized we’d have unusual neighbours. Almost all of the people in this row were families with kids or retirees with their campervans. Not our neighbours. They had a beer pong table in front, three tents pitched on one campsite and a speaker in every corner of their site to listen to bad music. I was not quite happy with it until Flo made me aware that my attitude was in line with all the retirees who openly glared at the younger people. I mean, yes their music was not good but not even overly loud. Yes, their conversation was tiring but we’ve all been young. We probably wouldn’t have chosen a kid-friendly nature camp to party for a weekend though.

We went on a walk to the playground until it started raining and then hid in the facilities, showering the kids and so circumvented a lot of their out-of-line-ness. Back at the camp, we had dinner listening to their music but once we started getting the kids ready for bed, they also packed up their things and left. In fact, that was the last thing I heard from them. They managed to return sometime during the night without waking us up. I had dreaded the night (and potential wake ups and grumpy kid) and now was seriously impressed.

Day 17 – Goth Burger

We got greeted by a delightfully sunny morning on our little ställplats out in the middle of nowhere. It was not as cold as the last two nights close to the lake and a bit further north, so breakfast was a pleasant and rather quick affair. Today was marked fully as a city day, but we had a little bit to go before we could get to that.

About 100km and an extremely confusing ride through a cratered landscape of urban re-development later, we found ourselves at the desired parking garage as close to the old town as we needed. We had to be a bit cheeky to grab one of the last four available chargers (out of 50+, mind you!) but around 10:30am we were ready to explore.

After a quick glance at the Lonely Planet map, we decided to start at the northernmost point for the day and get ourselves a bit of an overview from there. Quite literally, actually – since the first stop was the harbor high-rise called “the lipstick”. It had a dedicated viewing platform accessible to the public. 13 € and an elevator ride later, we were treated to a spectacular 360° view of Gothenburg. We could see the moored sailing vessel Number 3 took a liking to on our way here, the massive redevelopment happening in the east that almost tripped our google maps navigation and much more.

Of particular interest to Number 3 were all the construction sites with interesting machinery in operation all around. That was, until a ship approached to pass the new bridge and it lifted the whole central bit up, tram tracks and all. The old bridge, in the process of being torn down, was locked in open position anyways. Perfect timing – even Nina dared to approach the windows for a view. Otherwise, she preferred the seats closer to the core 😀

Next up was lunch. I had picked a vegetarian place a bit further south and we made the track across town. What I should have done is some COVID due diligence and check if the place actually made it through 2020 (which it had not) – nothing outdates a guidebook (2019 edition!) faster than a global pandemic, eh? With that disappointment fresh and already well into lunch time, we had to revert to emergency mode and settle for “anything, hopefully fast”. The vegetarian buffet lunch we ended up with was alright, but nothing to write home about.

After lunch, some more exploration on foot, via the oldest stone building in the old town (Kronhuset, 1654). The slightly younger service buildings around it have been converted into artisan workshops and cafés. And so, our quest to visit a chocolate manufactory on every continent continued with some gifts and snacks for the way on our way out.

We decided on a change of pace and for two more stops for the day. Four, if you choose to see it from Number 3’s perspective: City museum for some brain food, tram ride, Haga for city vibes and coffee time, tram ride and then home.

Haga, an “area of interest” according to the guide book

The museum was pretty cool and held the kids’ attention for a good hour and a half, topped off with an amazing playroom they had basically to themselves for a while. The tram ride would most likely be the real highlight of the day, in Number 3’s opinion.

Haga was a very good way to round out the day. A different, more neighborhood-y vibe than the old town it reminded us of Sachsenhausen in Frankfurt. We shared a humongous kanelbullar and enjoyed the atmosphere. In terms of excitement factor for our eldest, all this paled in comparison though to being allowed to pull the string (very old school) to signal the tram driver for our stop.

So off we went, after a good, enjoyable day to our beachside campground just out of town. I think it was a good way to say goodbye to Sweden. Tomorrow, the road …

Day 15 – Boat, a kingdom for a boat!

Given that Number 3 has been on our case about riding a boat for most of the trip, and our spectacular fail in Malmö, there was no more delaying it. The option of boat rentals was one of the reasons we came here in the first place after all. A boat we had to rent. What kind we would leave open to some consultation with the campground owner, but it would likely come down between canoe or row boat. Kayaks (which we would have preferred) were out due to the lack of AoE restraint options and out boarder seemed to be a bit against the spirit of it.

So we had a long, leisurely breakfast and enjoyed the comforting knowledge that there would be no packing today. Jan, the owner, is an extremely kind and laid-back kind of guy, so Number 3 almost burst from excitement when the reception was finally opened at 9am. In the end, he advised for the canoe as the nicer way to get around and we agreed, even though I was a bit apprehensive about the twisty kind of paddling. After all, my diagnosis of a broken rib was less than 5 weeks ago, and I can still feel it and not lay down on that side.

Everyone got kitted out with life vests, we packed some snacks and water and off we went. Nina had only kayak experience so far, so we quickly decided that maybe me in the back would have been the smarter move all along and swapped places. A lifetime ago, I did a two week-long trip down a local river in a canoe and to my surprise, the right motions were still there. That also meant that I, blessed with dad reflexes, could have an eye out for the Agent of Entropy. She insisted quite from the get go that the only way to enjoy the trip was to tippy toe over one side with one hand in the water.

We did a decent loop – maybe a bit too ambitions for the amount of food we took, as lunchtime sort of crept up on us. The Agent at some point refused to go on any further without the loudest of protestations. So Nina and I gave it one last big push and moored at a fallen log to give her at least a feed. Meanwhile, Number 3 and I went mushroom hunting again but got ourselves almost knocked out cold when I tried to use a decent sized (but rotten) tree as a handhold climbing the bank. It fell with a decent thud, luckily in the right direction for us. Oops …

Even with a feed, the Agent would refuse to part with mama for the rest of the way home, and so I did the last third of the way paddling alone from the back. Not ideal, but to my relieved surprise it went pain free. And so we arrived back for a late lunch, with big smiles all around (after the food, for the most part).

The afternoon flew by, with some exploration, cooking and Number 3 making friends with the 2 ½ year old neighbor. I really enjoyed seeing him as the tutor for once. The two of them played for almost an hour. His parents were really relaxed about it, enjoying the freedom that comes with those team ups (more on them tomorrow).

After all of that, bed time went pretty well and Nina and I had a good evening just for us, blogging, planning and talking in these beautiful surroundings we found ourselves in.

Day 12 – The flavour of Sweden is Pear

I was happy with the campsite for one night even if it got cold in the evening and thus also in the morning. During breakfast, Number 3 was adamant that he wanted to go swimming in the lake. Flo and I both didn’t take him seriously as it was really quite too cold to consider swimming. We decided to take advantage of the facilities and all shower before we leave. As an out, Flo offered that Number 3 could undress at the tent and then see if it would be too cold to go swimming. Our child undressed and declared that it was not too cold. He wanted his togs and floaties now, please. Flabbergasted, we gave them to him and he seriously went swimming in the lake. My jaw dropped. I mean, he swam as well as a 3 year old does: Lots of running around and splashing and stuff but he was IN the water.

Afterwards, he was rather blue-faced and we were off to a hot shower. The sun came out and packing went smoothly. We even managed to booking a time for laundry at 9am, complete with drying our clothes in the dryer and dryer cupboard (very Swedish). Keeping in mind our adventures this morning, we left at an okay time at 12.30pm. At the reception, we decided that we’d skip lunch. The Agent was asleep in the car already, Number 3 also looked very sleepy and we had an hour to drive to Nora. Thus, Flo came back with a bag of crisps which substituted our meal. Off we went.

Nora turned out to be a charming little town. We stopped right at the ice cream parlour, woke the kids and had ice cream. Nora Glass has three flavours per day. Today it was pear, hazelnut and vanilla. Number 3 opted for hazelnut with sprinkles; he looked very happy with his choice and didn’t want to waste ANY of his sprinkles. Flo and I shared a large cone which automatically comes with a scoop of all three flavours. We each chose a topping: Flo went for crushed hazelnuts and I chose chocolate sprinkles. 😀 The Agent helped us finish our ice cream with some gusto. This was the decidedly better of our two Swedish ice cream experiences, for sure.

Afterwards, we wandered through the streets, got to the lake where we strolled along docks to stumble upon…trains! Number 3 was so excited that he did a little happy dance. 😀

It was time to get back into the car to continue driving to Örebro. This was the only town with a castle that we’d visit this trip. As we realized in Malmö, we were more for the outdoors in these holidays so we skipped all of the old castles and ruins along the way. Örebro Slottet would only be looked at from afar, as you can only go inside with a guided tour.

We arrived and plugged into the charger, then walked half way around the castle. It started pouring. Meh. Luckily, the cafe that I had picked was right there. We stepped into Hälls Konditori, sat down on the couch and plushy chairs and had cake. Originally, the plan had been to share some Princess Cake with Number 3…alas, Princess Cake was already out when we arrived. So we all had cake in the same style but with different flavour combinations from the original. Number 3 went for blueberry and chocolate, I had raspberry and white chocolate and Flo pear and dark chocolate. It was…way too much! After all our fika treats made out of yeast dough, like kanelbullar and the like, real cake with lots of cream just seemed way too sweet and rich. Number 3 couldn’t finish his. I ate mine but couldn’t finfish his and Flo struggled as well. It was long enough of a break that the sun was back out when we left, though.

Back into the car and onto the last stretch for today: We wanted to reach Tiveden National park. Flo had picked a campsite almost in the National park which read like a lovely place. The drive (in sunshine) was very nice and the forests around here looked lovely.

We sat up, unfortunately we had to stay with the campervans as there was just no level area for us to park on at the tent spot. Still, it was quiet and Flo and I managed to sneak off to the bar in the evening to blog and have a drink. I was also looking forward to the morning. We decided to cook this night instead of eating out in the restaurant to feel justified in having the breakfast buffet in the morning instead. I love breakfasts. 😀

Day 9 – Give me shelter …

Everything is already so wet. It rained through the night. We decided for once against our pride and to make use of the facilities we are paying for. So instead of huddling under our awning, we packed everything up and got ourselves comfortable in the camp kitchen. A dry breakfast helped in getting the spirits up.

We actually used the kitchen to stay dry during breakfast

In the end, we were the only ones we saw all morning. Exploring the service building a bit more, we thought this really cool family bathroom was worth taking advantage off and added a family scrub to the list of things to do before facing the rain to take down the tent.

While we wrapped up our kids in full battle regalia, they did not last through the entire packing without complaining bitterly. We had to drop everything and head down to the playground at the lake for some cooling of tempers. So we were now pushing on lunch time before getting on the road – something that will become relevant to how our day would go …

Stopping at a random roadside cafe called Emma Grön

It was only two hours to our destination of the day: Visiting Emma, an old friend of Nina and myself. Well, actually not only Emma anymore, since she had found a companion since last we met and we were looking forward to be meeting Johan for the first time as well. The original plan was to have the lunch stop half way and arrive leisurely in the early afternoon. Now we were merely on the road and had already missed lunchtime.

Not much we could do about that, so I set course for the first restaurant Google suggested along the road. What an incredible luck we have sometimes. It turned out that Emma Grön could hardly have been more up our alley. We had a wonderful and tasty lunch in a little witches’ hut of a dining room. Oh, and the sweet treats looked so appetizing that we already knew that we would stay for dessert. What a great way to lift the spirits!

The rest of the way was uneventful – apart from some last minute COVID tests to keep our hosts and potential humans to be as safe as possible. With slight delay we arrived and triggered all of the burglar alarms around the house while waiting for Emma to return from her shopping run. We had initially intended to stay nearby somewhere with a good camp spot. But the relentless rain with no respite in sight had lead us to jump at the offer of some “urban camping” in our friends’ driveway.

The evening had much sharing of love and old tales, while we were spoilt by a great home-cooked lasagne from Johan. The kids slept as well as anywhere – why wouldn’t they? It is the same tent wherever it is parked.

Thank you Emma and Johan, for the shelter we needed …

Day 7 – Master and Padawan

We took our time in the morning so that the kids got a chance to experience the lake before we headed off again. Number 3 was quite interested in the other kids there: A couple were catching tiny fish and putting them in a bucket while a couple of girls were flying kites.

Flo and I managed to blog before we packed and when I looked up again, one of the older girls was letting Number 3 use her kite. She was really good at explaining what Number 3 needed to do. He was a little distracted by all the things that were going on though.

We left a little after 11am, but it was only a very short while to get to Karlskrona. Sunday limited our options for lunch a bit, but we were quite happy with the 3G cafe we ended up in. The big ticket item though was the world famous in Sweden ice cream parlour “Glassiären“. Famous unfortunately not for the quality of their product but for the insane portion sizes they serve. They have to bake custom waffle cones in-house that are actually large enough to hold the equivalent to 10 scoops for the three flavour option. The surprisingly low price of 5.50€ should have been the last warning sign, but as might have been suspected already: The quantity comes at the complete and utter sacrifice of quality. We had genuine trouble making out the difference between pistachio and pear, other than a taste of “sickly sweet bubblegum”.

With the sun melting the lot down faster than we could eat it, we begged Number 3 to put an end to our misery and throw it out, but he insisted that no bit of ice cream shall ever be wasted before him and we forced our way through the entire thing. Now we at least have a benchmark for worst gelato as well …

just to be clear, it is not Number 3’s hand holding this abomination

Off we went north, for a really enjoyable bit of road-trippy cruising. We decided to take another short break, if only to keep Number 3 from sleeping the whole two hours. That random stop following a sign for a picnic area and campsite turned out to be an absolute amazing hit for us: A perfectly manicured, municipal campsite sitting adjacent to a spotless bathing spot. We were immediately sold. The kids invaded the (otherwise empty) playground.

The icing on the cake (almost literally) came in form of an ultra-cute kiosk selling coffee and waffles to be enjoyed in a little windproof pavilion with lake views. With no one around, we were worried that we might not be served, but the ladies at the place were quite charming. It had the vibe of a charity bake – we did not need to be asked twice and tucked in, waffles with whipped cream and strawberry jam. Hmm … what an insanely cool thing for a random road side stop.

On we went then – after a moment of consideration to decide whether we wanted to camp right here and now – to press on a bit further towards Uppsala and to our designated camp for the night. And what a great pick that was as well. It only had very basic facilities, but that also meant we were among the cool kids now of small vans, pick-up cabins and the like. Much better than the white wall.

We immediately got into a friendly conversation with our neighbours, taking on the challenge of making an uneven spot work that did not yield for their larger van. I did, and almost as soon as we were settled, Number 3 clicked with the youngest of the three girls off with their mom. So off they went into the forest right in front of us – he the eager pupil to her 9 year old joy of teaching and guiding. What a peaceful setup we had 😀

Dinner was further improved by their find of an abundant supply of blueberries. The new guide was even cool enough to check in with us first before just munching on the things, but when I checked and gave the OK, more girls were summoned and the hunt was on. Cereals with fresh fruit – only slightly marred by the Agent of Entropy`s return to form: She flipped my full bowl, spilling the contents over herself and the ground.

Number 3 had many inquisitive questions about the pit toilets, but went to bed without too much of a fight after that. That meant we both had enough time to be invited over to a spot on our neighbours’ campfire before calling it a night. They were mildly disconcerted by learning our usual getting-up time of 6.30am … 😀

It got quite cold during the night and the morning was overcast. So we put on the woollen things to keep warm

Day 6 – Juicy

Flo:

Maybe I should’ve gotten to bed earlier. But the company was too good and sitting around a little fire just added this magic to it. Now it’s early and I’m a little bit tired. But even at 6:30am, it just gives me back my energy.

We were among the first to have breakfast and, with no awning to pack, were really fast breaking down our camp as well. So we took the time we gained and gave Number 3 his wish: a really big loop in the forest. We found cool and hidden things and he had a real good time, most of the way. Only near the end, an hour in, the novelty of it started to wane. So, in the car we hopped and off we went!

Instead of going straight north we decided to push on east first to go up along the coast. Nina read a Lonely Planet recommendation about the orchards there and found a cool place to spend lunchtime. We were still early so we were thinking of maybe checking out the fast charger in the town we were going for. It was fast and free, but a poor Swedish lady arrived just a minute after us and her exaltation that I would use the CCS plug leaving the ChaDeMO to her turned to despair when it turned out this station could only fuel one at the time. We were ready for lunch anyway, so we left it to her and headed off.

Nina:

Once we arrived at Kivik Musteri, I immediately got into the looooong queue just because it was there. That left Flo some time to get the kids ready and check out the place. It turned out that Kivik Musteri offered free charging for electric vehicles anyway so we were all set up right here.

Kivik Musteri consisted of the butik which I was queuing for, a restaurant, a little 6 room museum and a cafe. After some thought, I left the queue again as it didn’t make sense for us to get into the shop where we basically couldn’t buy anything (no space in the car) and it was lunchtime anyway.

We decided to go to the cafe which also gave me an option for cake. J After a good lunch break, made slightly uncomfortable by wasps, and a coffee/cake dessert, we were ready to tackle the “garden” and the museum. Number 3 enjoyed jumping around in the garden and looking at the different apple trees dispersed with other fruits.

The museum started with a room full of preserved fruits. It then went on to the history of Kivik Musteri, followed by the factory parts and a kids’ activity area. Number 3 got to be a little bee as well as testing his strength at pulling up 1kg of apples.

All juiced out by Kivik and all juiced up by the free charging, we left for our camp of the night. It was a nice campground at a lake where we really and definitely needed to do some laundry. We arrived late and it looked like rain so we quickly set up our tent. With me doing laundry and Flo organizing a cooked dinner, it left Number 3 to explore the lakeside by himself. He loved it even if he decided to go into the water with his shoes and socks still on.

After our dinner, Flo and Number 3 had one last round to check the place out before the kids went to bed. It was my turn today to tuck them all in. The Agent was already asleep when Flo opened one window from the outside and called Number 3 and me over. “Look, there’s a rainbow now!” So cool that Number 3 also got to see it. The rain stopped and we had a lovely, quiet evening at the lake.

Day 5 – History Nerds

In an attempt to make the absolute most of an annoying situation, I found a place to drop off Nina and Number 3 while I would hang out at the world’s most uninteresting petrol station waiting for Puru Hiko to get her buzz on. Emporia megamall – glitzy new addition to Malmö’s outskirts! We made it off the campground in record time at 9.15 am and 15 minutes later, the Agent of Entropy was fast asleep and the other two got dropped off in search for a replacement camping chair and some groceries.

The view from the tower, with the Longhouse, and dwellings in the center and gardens to the left.

The Ionity charger worked fine (there are tons of them, as they have partnered with a large petrol brand and outfitted many a K-station with 350 ampere HPCs), so I had at least only 40 minutes to kill. I did some trip research and planning while a very strange and peculiar story unfolded via WhatsApp with Nina. Turns out, almost everything in the mall, with the exception of the supermarket, would only open at 10am. So there were no visible signs, no people and even the electronic info panels would only show “open” shops – so Nina had no idea where to go. They decided on the sensible thing and headed for the only lit place: the ICA supermarket …

I outfitted myself with incredibly bad Burger King coffee and we met up just about an hour after leaving the camp. No good chairs had been found, but we had bread and milk to be prepared for eventual free camping …

But first – south to the small town of Höllviken to visit real Vikings of Fotevikens! Well, at least a neatly reconstructed village with a sort of re-enactment group of living there full-time while doubling as guides at the museum. Let’s get right to it – it was pretty awesome. I am a big history nerd and both of us have been to medieval style fairs in Germany before. The guides were really open and friendly – my sincere respect for pulling this off, living there full-time. I got into a few really cool conversations. It was quite delightful to see how they lit when it was clear we could skip the basic stuff about when Christianity arrived and that Viking helmets had no horns (Romanticists invention) and dig into the weird stuff. Talking to them, I could not shake the thoughts of comparison with other lower tech cultures we encountered in our travels. The village had the same vibe as one on Flores, Indonesia and the culture reminded me a lot of another seafaring warrior culture we have learned to love …

Number 3 had a blast, too. Going into houses, checking out stuff and trying to find the chickens belonging to the empty coop of the merchant’s household.

Southern Sweden still has a very central European landscape, just with fewer people.

Rather than getting back in the car to look for a good lunch spot or getting our whole kit out, we decided to take the easy route and drop into the resident bar “Smokies” for some fast food. The burger, fries and baked potato were pretty decent and I learned to like the low alcohol cider that apparently is a thing around here.

After all that sun and excitement, and well and truly stuffed, there was only one more hour of driving on the menu. I found a nature reserve from one of the local councils with marked tenting spots. Now, we do have a tent, but it is also bolted to our car – so I was a bit apprehensive about the rules and if they applied to us. The good thing was that we were both early and there would be an alternative proper campsite close by. I just really hoped that we could escape the wall of white whales for at least one night.

That pure joy – so infectious. Forrest was his highlight of the day.

As it turned out, this was the jackpot. A beautiful grassy area, with parking areas big and close enough that we could pop the tent without annoying everyone and it even had proper toilets and drinkable water just around the corner (in a converted farm now serving as a rentable venue for “nights in the countryside” for the locals). Everything was very beautiful, quiet and all in all amazing. Number 3 immediately took off into the forest and had the biggest, most joyous laughter ready for us as he paced through the pines and over logs.

We arrived at 3.30 pm. Enough time to soak in the sight and really feel like we made it to Sweden for the first time. This right here is what we were looking for. Let’s just really hope for more to come! I even got a bit of campfire company for a good chat arriving later that evening. A family of four in a two-roof-tent Jeep and trailer combination. Good times!

She slept through the whole re-charge. Oh, and she loves the Dragon. We named it Roary …

Day 4 – Malmö

We had made it to Sweden yesterday. So today, we had a full day to spend in Malmö. Our campground had not much going for it (for us at least) apart from being right next to the bus station which brought you into the city center of Malmö within 30 minutes.

The Agent of Entropy on the bus ride home

We packed all our gear for a city trip and then decided to spend some time on the blog so the kids could play on the fantastic playground. Unfortunately, we don’t even have a single picture. Number 3 even went up to some other kids with trucks in the sand pit and asked politely if he could play with some of the trucks. I was so proud of him for doing that. J

Finally, we went on the bus which took us to Malmö. We got off a little before the city center as Flo, who directed this part of the journey, wanted us in easy walking distance to the chocolate factory I wanted to visit. Once we were there, we realized it was closed. I mean, they are still making chocolates there, just the whole shop and touring for the public got cancelled due to corona. What a pity! I love touring chocolate factories.

From there, it was a good 20 minute walk into the old town. While walking we came across an art exhibition in the Malmö Konsthall and the cafe Smak in the same building. It was just about lunch time for us and we grabbed a bit to eat before looking at a small side exhibition on the anti-racist gaze.

Further on our way, we crossed the canal Rörsjökanalen around the old town which had paddling boats on it, marking it in our minds as a fun activity for later. Number 3 was quite upset that we didn’t stay at a playground for him to explore everything. It was the first time that we realized not having a lunch nap today might be a problem.

In the old town, we made our way through the alleys and lanes into the direction of Lilla Kafferosteriet. Number 3 complained about the walking…but got better again when I went into a tourist shop with a colourful horse on the sign and he got to pick souvenirs for himself and Opa. J

The cafe turned out to be lovely. The Agent who had kept me up almost the entire night (I am exaggerating but we didn’t have long between breaks) slept through the entire affair.

Gamla Staden, the old civic square, was still on my list. The oldest pharmacy is on the square which the Agent of Entropy gave us an excellent excuse to enter: We NEEDED teething gel!

The square was one big temptation for Number 3 with a ferris wheel, a carussell with horses, big balloons and other things. The tantrum of not being allowed to go on any of these accompanied us on our way back towards the canal. Flo was smart enough to indicate that we would not tell Number 3 about our plan to go on the paddling boats until we were certain that it would work. However, he himself broke that smart plan by telling Number 3 what we were queuing for only to realize that we would have to wait for an hour for a free boat which we would then hire for an hour. Two more hours in Malmö was just too long to go. Number 3 was rightly disappointed.

As a way to make up for it or have him experience one of the things he wanted, we let him ride the “flying dumbo” carussell. Just one time. All alone. It worked brilliantly. He had so much fun and he was so proud.

It failed in getting him distracted from the boat disaster though. He screamed all the way back to the bus and then fell asleep on the ride home. Uff. Malmö, I don’t think you worked out too well for us today. But then maybe, we are primed for a bit of Swedish space and wilderness. Not another European city.