Tag Archives: gelato

Day 7 – Master and Padawan

We took our time in the morning so that the kids got a chance to experience the lake before we headed off again. Number 3 was quite interested in the other kids there: A couple were catching tiny fish and putting them in a bucket while a couple of girls were flying kites.

Flo and I managed to blog before we packed and when I looked up again, one of the older girls was letting Number 3 use her kite. She was really good at explaining what Number 3 needed to do. He was a little distracted by all the things that were going on though.

We left a little after 11am, but it was only a very short while to get to Karlskrona. Sunday limited our options for lunch a bit, but we were quite happy with the 3G cafe we ended up in. The big ticket item though was the world famous in Sweden ice cream parlour “Glassiären“. Famous unfortunately not for the quality of their product but for the insane portion sizes they serve. They have to bake custom waffle cones in-house that are actually large enough to hold the equivalent to 10 scoops for the three flavour option. The surprisingly low price of 5.50€ should have been the last warning sign, but as might have been suspected already: The quantity comes at the complete and utter sacrifice of quality. We had genuine trouble making out the difference between pistachio and pear, other than a taste of “sickly sweet bubblegum”.

With the sun melting the lot down faster than we could eat it, we begged Number 3 to put an end to our misery and throw it out, but he insisted that no bit of ice cream shall ever be wasted before him and we forced our way through the entire thing. Now we at least have a benchmark for worst gelato as well …

just to be clear, it is not Number 3’s hand holding this abomination

Off we went north, for a really enjoyable bit of road-trippy cruising. We decided to take another short break, if only to keep Number 3 from sleeping the whole two hours. That random stop following a sign for a picnic area and campsite turned out to be an absolute amazing hit for us: A perfectly manicured, municipal campsite sitting adjacent to a spotless bathing spot. We were immediately sold. The kids invaded the (otherwise empty) playground.

The icing on the cake (almost literally) came in form of an ultra-cute kiosk selling coffee and waffles to be enjoyed in a little windproof pavilion with lake views. With no one around, we were worried that we might not be served, but the ladies at the place were quite charming. It had the vibe of a charity bake – we did not need to be asked twice and tucked in, waffles with whipped cream and strawberry jam. Hmm … what an insanely cool thing for a random road side stop.

On we went then – after a moment of consideration to decide whether we wanted to camp right here and now – to press on a bit further towards Uppsala and to our designated camp for the night. And what a great pick that was as well. It only had very basic facilities, but that also meant we were among the cool kids now of small vans, pick-up cabins and the like. Much better than the white wall.

We immediately got into a friendly conversation with our neighbours, taking on the challenge of making an uneven spot work that did not yield for their larger van. I did, and almost as soon as we were settled, Number 3 clicked with the youngest of the three girls off with their mom. So off they went into the forest right in front of us – he the eager pupil to her 9 year old joy of teaching and guiding. What a peaceful setup we had 😀

Dinner was further improved by their find of an abundant supply of blueberries. The new guide was even cool enough to check in with us first before just munching on the things, but when I checked and gave the OK, more girls were summoned and the hunt was on. Cereals with fresh fruit – only slightly marred by the Agent of Entropy`s return to form: She flipped my full bowl, spilling the contents over herself and the ground.

Number 3 had many inquisitive questions about the pit toilets, but went to bed without too much of a fight after that. That meant we both had enough time to be invited over to a spot on our neighbours’ campfire before calling it a night. They were mildly disconcerted by learning our usual getting-up time of 6.30am … 😀

It got quite cold during the night and the morning was overcast. So we put on the woollen things to keep warm

Day 15 – The two Towers

Not many would put up with a campground like this – at least Germans, that is. And maybe I might have been upset, too, would we have been asked for some extortionist rate. But at 16.20€ this was the cheapest camp so far, by 10 euros. All we wanted was 50 m² to park and some electricity plus a hole in the ground. One could argue, we got even a bit more than that. No stink, no terrible noise. Ok, the mozzies, but that is not really the campground’s fault. I had recharged 70km of range – by that point we basically slept for free :D. Plus, we were very motivated to leave, so we were on the road by a record breaking 8:55 am!

First time I managed to get an Italian charger working with an app (no roaming 🙁 )

On our way to Bologna we hit our first traffic jam, but nothing to get upset about. A bit more annoying was the amount of research I had to do to find a way to get to a charge point close to the center without going into the Z.T.L. and risking a 87€ fine again. I had two good charge points marked, but by the time we arrived at the first one, both were marked as blocked. At least the provider’s app let me know before having to drive around in circles. We settled on a pair of chargers 5 minutes further out and for once, the app worked fine, at least. It even has PayPal support. Go ENEL X. I still can’t wait until the EU gets their act together and will legislate mandatory EU roaming for all charge point operators.

Bologna enchanted us right from the first couple of streets in. Very different in feel from Parma, the most noticeable change is the enormously wide arcades along many of the otherwise narrow streets of the old city center. It had a bit of an oriental or moorish vibe to it and reminded us of southern Iberia. The mood was different, too. Much younger, edgier. No doubt this was the result of the significant student population in the city of the western world’s oldest University (feel free insert your own “but actually … “ about this pop quiz level info bite at the next public toilet of your convenience. I am not Tom Scott :D).

Since we were so early, we had time for some sightseeing before lunch. Northern Italy, especially Renaissance era stuff throws out our sense for historical time and place a bit. Everything is bigger than it “should be” or looks too modern for its context. Us northern Europeans really were the primitive barbarians at the gates for so long. The Palazzo d’Accursio for example has an internal stairwell built flat and wide enough that horse drawn carriages could go directly up to the 1^st floor to deliver the papal legate to their chamber added in 1587.

After a brief round through the next Duomo (photo ticket 2€ 😊 ), we strolled through even narrower lanes towards our lunch spot, window shopping at the many hole-in-the-wall shops offering fresh produce, handmade pasta or other delicacies. Bolonga is such a food town, we could probably spend a week here without ever boring our taste buds.

The lunch place was called Bottega Portici, located right beneath the landmark of the two leaning towers. The Bottega was a stark contrast to yesterday, and probably quite edgy for Italy. The idea is to provide top quality food but in a hyper affordable way. The result was absolutely perfect – at least for us. Via fast food-style self-service ordering at large touch screens, you get your pick between a few pasta options, sides and desserts. Then, you get your ticket and collect everything when ready. That way they can provide handmade tagliatelle with Ragu alla Bolognese for 7€.

the kids are waking up too early – could you tell?

Water is free, filtered tap by a large margin our favorite idea. There is no reason to cart water around anywhere in Europe in our book. The food was ready super quickly and the whole place had a real cool vibe – and clean restrooms :D. We decided it was time to call it. The days are getting warmer and we were looking forward to a quiet day at the only other camp along our route listed on Rustiek Kamperen (a Dutch site we used extensively on our last trip).

Of course, we could not leave before one brief detour via another Gelateria. From the Lonely Planet again, this one was another excellent recommendation, although I went for decidedly too much chocolate in my pick of flavours. The stroll back to the car, maybe with the exception of the last two blocks, was a similarly enjoyable experience. The shade and cool mood provided by the arcades was just our thing.

Fully charged once more, the last hour to Agriturismo Alba went by quickly. Once again, the wee ones fell asleep peacefully rather quickly. The camp itself looked like exactly the thing we were looking for in a site for a day off: A grassy patch with lots of trees around for shade and a lovely view across some wheat (well, some sort of grain) fields.

You get what you pay for, I guess. But these toll roads make for quick travel from town to town

Day 41 – Onward to the beginning

We did not find out the particular reason why this beautiful campsite was quite so abandoned. The flow of people confuses us. The price was ok – 22 € with power, so in line with other rustiek sites. Maybe it is our lack of preparation, so that we don’t quite now “where to be” and what to skip. I think we like it better that way – good things are better when they are a surprise.

There are a few more city destinations in this very northwest corner of Portugal that we can tick off, with the first one probably the highest on our list. The plan is to go to up to three of them in order and turn off east to a national park bordering Spain when it gets time to find a place to sleep.

With that, we set our sights on Guimarães – the first capital of Portugal. The way this works is pretty straight forward – Reconquista went north to south, so every 50 years or so the Don de Jour would move his seat of power a bit further down. But this is it – this is where the independent Kingdom of Portugal was sort of born. We liked it right away. In perfect weather, the medieval old town and 15^th century ducal palace were a delight. From afar as in close quarters.

We started with an overview, quite literally this time: There is another one of these steep granite hills just south of the city, with a cable lift and a road to the very top. From here, armed with ice cream, we had a great view of the city and the hills around. We took aim, both for the ducal palace and for a lunch place once we got a handle on Guimarães.

The lunch place was a revelation, maybe the coolest and most child friendly location in Portugal so far. That says something. And it was a vegetarian place to boot! Cor de Tangerine was set in a big beautiful merchant house dominated by granite features and creaky wooden floors right next to the ducal palace. The terrace had a view out over the palace and a park. The food was great, but the whole atmosphere of the location and friendly staff nudged it over the top. Number 3 got a blanket and some books draped under one of the trees on the terrace, in good view. After lunch, he even got a private tour of the kitchen!

The after lunch stroll through the old town was just the thing to round it off. The subtle difference in architecture made for an interesting change, especially with the dominance of the ageless grey granite on many buildings. After a round back to the car park (again, why would I not use them: 1.20€ for a safe and shady spot right in town) we were good to head to our next destination.

Braga, Portugal’s third largest city, had a very different vibe going, modern and lively. We timed it right for once and fell into an inner city set up for the Braga Romana festival: all the girls and some of the ladies were wearing flower circlets on their heads. Many wandering around in more or mostly less authentic roman drab. We, given that it was our tea time stop, were headed for another ice cream shop. A Lonely Planet recommendation, the ice cream was good and Nina did not complain about her chocolate cupcake either. We enjoyed the hustle and bustle around us for a bit, with more (Portuguese) kids than we had seen anywhere else so far around us.

We were good after that, decided to skip city number 3 and head for the hills. A good day was had with the drive towards a campsite at the Cavado river (which is actually a lake, due to the dam built further downstream) not disappointing either.

Things only started to turn weird when I decided to improvise at the last second. Instead of following the GPS to the campground I had picked from google, we turned into the first one at our destination. It had lake views, so why not? Well, it should have ticked us off that no one was at the reception, but rather the team doing some modernisation indicating us to “set right up, register later”. Well, we did, double checking the indicated spot with them: The site was 100 % full with permanent campers, but had a bit of space in front of a rather abandoned looking one. Yes, here … OK. I mean, the spot was nice and all, just weirdly right in front of this old caravan. Then the team started up again, dragging old caravans off their lots to a half-done area. Call for registration never came. Oh well, we’ll pay and leave in the morning then.

About 10 minutes after we went to bed, we heard what I thought to be the trash collectors. Odd, after 8 pm. Well …

And as we were about to drift to sleep, we heard cheerful voices of young men. Closing in. They started to laugh, somewhat disbelieving. Not us. Why would they? Now, they were very close, I had the feeling they were right next to us. But sound is deceiving in a tent. They might be one up, I think I saw people there earlier. Right about then, their cackling and chatting woke up Number 3, who let go a primal scream of fright. Things quieted down after that, but Nina and I were left a bit disconcerted after that. The night had just started, though …