Day 205 – Hordes of the Underdark

Rice fields and mountains in the early morning

Rice fields and mountains in the early morning

This was a neigh perfect day! Gosh, was that day trip amazing. To think that we almost did not go!

I am still on and off with some kind of infection. Never bad enough to need a full rest day, but it is getting annoying none the less. Regardless, after a nice breakfast on this surprising but refreshingly crisp morning, we decided to do what we came here for.

The road to Kong Lor was in itself a highlight. This whole area is a vast fertile plain ringed on all sides by limestone hills jutting out like crystals from the flat expanse. On it, there is not much going on but (mostly rice) farming and some cute villages. Even the high voltage transmission lines from the hydros did not look out of place. To top it all of, the road was sealed and in pretty good condition.

Walking int the cave to get to the boats. Flo is wearing the chic blue life-vest already =P

Walking int the cave to get to the boats. Flo is wearing the chic blue life-vest already =P

The cave is one of the top attractions in Laos, but for once did not leave us grinding our teeth due to the excessive prices. Maybe it was the good influence of New Zealand development aid (to our delight, we saw the silver fern announcing NZ’s help in the development of this place all over). As before at the dolphin spotting on the Mekong, we were also pleasantly surprised how smooth the operation ran without becoming “Eiffel-tower-esque”.

So what is all the fuss about then? Well, the limestone here was for once not worn and neatly parted to give the river on the far side a nice valley to flow trough but instead “drilled” right through. The Nam Hin Bun river created a 7 km long cave under the mountain. And we got to ride its length in a longtail boat – twice.

Base with boats...and the last fixed light point for a while

Base with boats…and the last fixed light point for a while

I did not know a place like this existed in the world. But right then, we got dropped into this. There is a fictional place in the fantasy worlds and literature that we like, called the Underdark. Whenever I read about it, I always thought it a bit strange, since it is a place we can imagine but never even come close to experience. No other cave I have been to comes even close, but all of a sudden, here we were. Like coming to New Zealand and “seeing” middle-earth for the first time.

A walking path along stalagmites and stalactites, illuminated

A walking path along stalagmites and stalactites, illuminated

The boat goes there and back again through the mountain, all in all maybe 2 1/2 hours. Along the way, there are two bits where the rapids make it too shallow to ride and we had to get out of the boat. On one of these, they have created a walk way through a stalagmite and stalactite field and cast it all in atmospheric lighting. Quite spectacular. Apart from this though, the rest of the trip is in total darkness, only cut through by our small head torches.

At about half time, we came out the other side for a brief stop and a refreshment. Water buffaloes were taking a mud bath on the banks of the river as we flowed in – some of them where albinos, which we had not seen before. We would have loved to get some of the local handwoven fabrics but once again, thinking of our limits (budget and space) made us think better of it.

And of the cave mouth with us two

And of the cave mouth with us two

After our trip back and an extended long exposure photo session at the cave’s mouth we strolled back to the bike. When we were about to dip our feet in one last time for a refreshment (we did not bring swimming gear) the other bummer hit me. A little black bee got caught between my toes and stung me under water. To my relief, although painful, it was not as bad as being stung by a honey bee.

It was late, I was stung and we needed lunch, so we did not venture further than the gate of the park area. The food was OK, although we could have done without the customary Lao/Khmer 40 minute wait. 🙂

"Our" lovely place which was fully booked at the end of the day

“Our” lovely place which was fully booked at the end of the day

Speaking of waiting – that night, our beautiful guest house got overrun a little by backpackers on motorbikes. Where we were the only ones here last night, now there were about 8 – 10 couples filling the place and in turn the restaurant. The lovely owners did what they could, but there was a bit of a backlog. Things probably got worse once we finished and headed back to our room, since right then the power went out for the next two hours. Nothing could phase us though, as we got ready for bed in the eerie light of phone and tablet LCD screens …