Tag Archives: Vang Vieng

Day 210 – On top of things

A joy to ride

A joy to ride

If the map was any indicator, we were about to embark into the real mountainous North today. We heard from other travelers that there was a new road going over a mountain pass instead of following the Mekong and that it would not be used by buses for the steep incline. Obviously we were quite excited about this.

Before we could find out however, there were a bunch of minor annoyances in our way. First, the drive chain was covered in a thick sandy layer of grit and had to be cleaned. Before packing, I fixed up our luggage racks a bit and when we finally were ready to leave, Nina’s headset finally gave out after playing up for a while. This is the forth or fifth one to break on the trip – and the final spare. As much as we love the cheaper wired intercom, it is getting a bit ridiculous. Later that night I went over all the old (and broken ones) again – and at least found one where only one of the earpieces is dead. That will have to do until we can get our hands on replacements later on, probably Oman. Continue reading

Day 209 – Outdoor adventures

Gorgeous spot to start kayaking. It had to be passed by all groups going to zip-lining and tubing

Gorgeous spot to start kayaking. It had to be passed by all groups going to zip-lining and tubing

What to do in Vang Vieng in a day? Well, there are many options. Though we didn’t want to spend too much money and I still wanted to be able to skype call my family in the afternoon. Two activities attracted our fancy: Kayaking and zip-lining. Doing both would need the whole day so we needed a decision which one it was going to be.

We’d been kayaking in Krabi already so zip-lining won. Unfortunately, a pure zip-lining trip was unavailable so we booked the half-day zip-lining and tubing-in-a-cave tour. Booking through our hostel had some advantages. First, we were picked up at 9am from our doorstep. Second, it turned out that our tour had exactly two participants, Flo and me. This fact resulted in a kind of VIP treatment that was quite nice for a change.

Looking back over the rice fields towards the mountains

Looking back over the rice fields towards the mountains

Being picked up in a mini-bus, we drove two streets over to change into an SUV which then, in turn, drove us the 15km out to where all the outdoor activities are happening. The ride was slightly wet, as the car had been cleaned while the windows were open, and quite bumpy. So, at least I was happy when we arrived at the destination. The place was packed with tourists and kayaks and all sorts of other things. Most groups varied between 10 to 15 people, all of them wearing life jackets. We were told to follow on of these groups through rice fields and a local village until we arrived at the starting point for zip-lining and cave-tubing.

All geared up!

All geared up!

Here, our tiny group size really paid off. Flo and I were equipped in record time, put into harnesses, helmets and a single glove and off we went into the jungle. Climbing rocks and ladders, I was glad that we decided to wear sturdy boots. A fall would have been not so good. Then, we were on the first platform and I realized that my vertigo wasn’t much of a problem at all. On the platform itself, you cannot look straight down and while you are on the line, you simply look around and ahead, not so much down.

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeee!

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeee!

One guide would zip ahead, then it was my turn before Flo’s and our second guide’s. Thus, we zipped through without having to wait on any platform as it seemed we were the only ones for now. It was actually much fun. 🙂

Finishing about ten lines, we were back on ground level. Instead of having a breather, we were ushered to change into swim gear, skipped the queue and were put onto cave-tubing. Each of us got a truck’s inner tube to lie on, a head lamp to see in the dark and again, we were told to follow the last group. No, we didn’t get life jackets even if EVERYONE around us was wearing one. The water was freezing cold as the day was overcast and the cave was really, really dark.

There were ropes leading in so we used these to pull ourselves along through the darkness. It took a while to catch up to the last group that headed in. In the end, I even fell in as I stretched to grab the rope which eluded me. Luckily, I can swim so not being able to stand wasn’t an issue. Cold water though is. 🙂 Water and darkness are two of the reasons why there are no pictures of the cave-tubing at all. I left my camera in the dry safety of the backpack in a locker in the village.

Overlooking the start for the cave-tubing

Overlooking the start for the cave-tubing

While heading head-first into the cave, someone yelled Flo’s name which made both of us turn around in surprise. Peter and Josy, the two German traveler’s we met in Georgetown/Malaysia (http://fuckitwereleaving.wordpress.com) were waving at us. So once we were safely back out of the cave, we waited for them. Only a brief conversation was possible before they had to go kayaking and we were carried away on ojeks (at least that’s what Indonesians call local scooters with a local driver as a means of transport). We gave them our hostel’s name and asked if they would like to drop by after kayaking as we would be “home” in the afternoon.

Then, I hopped on “my” ojek which turned out to be the racing type and was off. The driver obviously felt comfortable either with my skills as a pillion or his skills as a driver as he took the local way out. Up a ridge we went, through rice fields over wooden plank bridges and in the end, I had to wait for about 5min for Flo to catch up. He appeared walking over a bridge that my driver just had ridden over. As soon as we were reunited, we were ushered back into the SUV and driven back to Pan’s place in time for lunch.

This much activity in the morning called for a relaxed afternoon. Desktop dungeon was a lovely way to pass time until Josy and Peter knocked on the door for our dinner date.

Day 208 – Vang Vieng

Croissants with butter and jam

Croissants with butter and jam

Again, having only a 150km stretch to ride today, we decided to have breakfast at the fancy French bakery. Pain of chocolate (pain au chocolate) is just my favourite way to start the day. Again, it was delicious. We were happy now to leave Vientiane behind which did turn out to be a sleepy little town.

150km north of the capital is the small town of Vang Vieng. In earlier days, it was a party-haven for young travellers wanting to tube down the river while being high, but three years ago the party scene was shut down. Nowadays, outdoor activities such as kayaking, tubing and rock climbing are the center of tourism here.

An example of the red dirt colouring everything

An example of the red dirt colouring everything

The road to Vang Vieng turned out to be the worst in quite a while. Giant potholes interchanged with missing stretches of road. It reminded us of Timor-Leste, to be honest. Thus, it took us longer than expected. Unfortunately, there was also no nice space to stop and take a break from the taxing ride as we were pretty much walled in by trees and bushes that had taken on the colour of the dirt. Riding in the clouds of cars and trucks was also not that much fun.

Nice and refreshing

Nice and refreshing

We finally stopped on a bridge for a rehydration break as the view from up here was refreshing after all the red. Nothing to linger on too long though which meant that we arrived at our destination before lunch time. This early, we even got a room at Pan’s Place, one of the popular hostels in town. Since the cafe and our room looked nice, we decided to book two night from the get go.

The prices at our hostel’s café looked reasonable so we had lunch right here and then in form of Western food. While waiting on the burger and cheese-garlic-baguette, two other Germans sat down at our table. They had seen us arrive on the Transalp and were keen to talk, one motorcyclist to another.

Rather worrying wooden bridge

Rather worrying wooden bridge

Being in a slight food coma after lunch, it took decisive action to get out of our room once more and actually DO something with our time in Vang Vieng. The Lonely Planet recommends a tiny loop of about 26km which is short enough that many attempted it on a bicycle. We, however, took Rocinante out for a spin enjoying the dirt roads through mountainous scenery rather than the many waterfall and cave stops. And what beautiful scenery it was! We took 1 ½ hours for the 26km to take it all in, take many photos including Flo riding on the dirt roads and wave to all the locals we met.

Last bit of motorbike epicness for the day

Last bit of motorbike epicness for the day

At one moment, a lady working in a rice field actually smiled at us and waved and I wish I could have taken a picture of this moment but some things are too fleeting to grab on camera.

Very happy that we actually went on this loop, we arrived back at the hostel to plan tomorrow.