Tag Archives: Siem Reap

Day 185 – Demi-Anniversary

Yummy breakfast

Yummy breakfast

One of the reason why we didn’t mind too much that we had booked an expensive night rather than two is that today is the sixth month-i-versary or demi-anniversary. After being on the road for six months, sleeping in a freezing tents, moldy cupboards or scorching shoe boxes, this one night was well earned.

So we slept in, making good use of the noon check out time. Breakfast was included so we feasted on scrambled eggs, baguette, muesli with milk, a croissant with pineapple jam, fresh fruit, orange juice and of course tea and coffee. It was a very enjoyable breakfast.

Approaching Angkor Wat over a bridge, crossing the moat

Approaching Angkor Wat over a bridge, crossing the moat

A bit of lounging and blogging later, we had to pack up already and move to our next accommodation. Check in was no problem but it was only 12.20pm again, the hottest time of the day. So we decided to have a bit of a siesta before leaving at 2pm. We had left Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom for our last day at the complex and I was anxious to get a good look at them.

Angkor Wat is a tourist magnet so you cannot except a quiet walk around the premises. However, after having seen the crowd at sunrise, we were positively surprised by how much space you still got. You start by walking over a bridge which crosses the moat and leads to the entrance comprised of three gates. On the inner premises, you cross quite a bit of space with a first a library and then a pond on each side before the walkway leads you to the actual temple of Angkor Wat.

Through the first gate, looking towards the temple itself

Through the first gate, looking towards the temple itself

Starting from the terrace, the galleries are decorated with massive bas-reliefs so we spent a good while circling the building to look at all of them. Here, the knowledge that we had gained through our museum’s visit in combination with the information in the Lonely Planet gave us a good insight. We actually had a lot of fun trying to find the important gods in all of the battle scenes. Flo even managed to find another couple without any kind of guide or information sheet to whom he explained two or three of the bas-reliefs.

bad times for the Vietnamese ... but they will remember this, don't you worry ...

bad times for the Vietnamese … but they will remember this, don’t you worry …

The order in which we looked at the scenes was as follows: The battle of Kurukshetra, the army of Suryavarman II, Heaven & Hell, Churning of the ocean of milk, Vishnu conquers the demons, Krishna & the Demon King, Battle of the Gods & the Demons, Battle of Lanka. This will probably tell you nothing but it might clearify the order of our photos in the gallery a bit. These scenes seem to be unrelated at least in so far as they don’t tell a continuous story but rather many, many battles. After finishing this round, we were tired already. Going up into the inner part of Angkor Wat, we re-discovered the crowds, all queuing up to climb the last stairwell into one of the towers. Given how long the queue was, that it was 4pm already and that the late afternoon light was very pretty, we abstained from the last level. Instead, we went back outside to take more photos of the whole complex. Then, we also had to move on to Angkor Thom.

Rocinante and Bayon in the late afternoon light

Rocinante and Bayon in the late afternoon light

Angkor Thom is an even larger complex than Angkor Wat as it was a whole city inside a moat and walls once. Given the time, we rode Rocinante straight to Bayon which is the largest temple in the area. It was already tinged in a beautiful yellow light so I took pictures of the bike and the temple. We were still all bas-reliefed out so we skipped this round and went straight up to the towers. In Bayon, the remarkable feature are the large faces adorning the towers. They looked awesome in this special light. Flo even gave one of the faces a hongi. 🙂

Tired but satisfied we left the Angkor temple complex after visiting Bayon. Yes, there is a lot we haven’t seen but there is also a lot we managed to see in just three days. We are quite happy with our time here.

 

Day 184 – Sunrise and a treat

Having booked a second night in the budget room and one instead of two nights at the fancy place, our plans crumbled slightly. Since we spent a bit of money on the fancy room, we wanted to get some use out of it and enjoy the amenities. Thus, we would go to the temples in the morning, check out at lunch time and then spend the afternoon lounging and relaxing.

Good plan. Until we decided that it would also make sense to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat today instead of tomorrow so that we could sleep in in our fancy room. This meant that the alarm clock went off at 5am. So freaking early. I mean, we don’t sleep in too much but with the sun rising at 6.30am, there is no reason to get up before 7am. Now there was, though.

Just enough light - and no muppet in the way

Just enough light – and no muppet in the way

We rode Rocinante into the temple complex where we joined the long throng of tuk-tuks all moving towards Angkor Wat. It was going to be crowded. All the “perfect” spots by the pond were already taken. They are “perfect” because Angkor Wat is mirrored in the water if it’s a still enough day without too many clouds. We sat down on the grass a bit away from the pond but ended up moving around quite a bit while the sun was rising. It gets light so quickly before you can actually see the sun. We took some very pretty pictures but with the crowd, it didn’t feel like a special sunrise at all.

Underexposure ftw ...

Underexposure ftw …

When the crowds started to disperse, we sat down at the pond, having a quick breakfast of Nutella toasts. Because sunrise and probably also sunset are such a thing, many kids were running around trying to sell you postcards or magnets. They were all incredibly cute but I got upset when tourists asked them for a picture and then paid them a dollar for it. All you accomplish with that behaviour is that these kids will continue to work there instead of going to school. There are actually signs posted at the temples with “Don’t give money or candy to children, it encourages them not to attend school” and some people still do it. /rant

Ta Keo was the next temple on our list. It’s a pyramid with many, very steep steps and it is currently under heavy reconstruction. Still, we saw only a handful of other people there so early in the morning. Very peaceful.

In a way, Ta Prohm is more impressive than the cleared temples. Nature's power over man is awe inspiring.

In a way, Ta Prohm is more impressive than the cleared temples. Nature’s power over man is awe inspiring.

The so-called “Lara Croft” temple Ta Prohm was the next in line. This temple is mostly a ruin as trees have wreaked havoc with the walls and roofs. Being famous for featuring in a Lara Croft movie, it is picturesquely broken to our eyes. There are efforts to reconstruct a couple of areas. Here, we only managed to be half an hour earlier than the tourist buses.

Being really tired and also hungry again already, we decided to visit Sra Srang and then call it a day with the temple visits. Sra Srang is not actually a temple but a huge basin that was built as the royal bathing pond. The stairs with the guarding lions is still standing but access to the pond is off limits except for the fishermen.

Back at the hostel, we were still in time for a late breakfast so our hunger was taken care of. Afterwards, I still got to nap for an hour before we had to pack and check out at noon. Our fancy accommodation turned out to be fancy indeed. Though we had to leave the budget hostel at noon, check in in the new place was at 2pm. Our room wasn’t ready when we arrived at 12.20pm. We were seated in the lounge on a couch, had wet towels brought for refreshment as well as a lime drink and banana chips. Good signs, huh?

Flo is sceptic...

Flo is sceptic…

About half an hour later, we were shown to our room which was HUGE and lovely and the staff had scattered flowers on the bed and there were swans made out of the towels and the phrase “Florian Bocher we <3 u” was spelled out on the bed…I LOVED it.

Still being tired but also being hot from the motorcycle ride, we jumped in the pool (extra pool towels ftw) before having a second nap in the plushy, comfy bed. At around 3pm, I dragged Flo along to another “dining for a cause” café, this time specializing in cupcakes while supporting Cambodian women in their vocational training. Check out the Blossom Café if you are in Siem Reap!

Uber-rich chocolate cupcake and lime splash

Uber-rich chocolate cupcake and lime splash

I couldn’t really decide what I wanted because there were so many flavours. In the end, I went with peppermint tea and a chocolate hazelnut cake pop while Flo ordered an uber-rich chocolate cupcake for me. He got a lime splash and a raspberry lemon one to his coffee. Very decadent, I know, but so worth it. 🙂

The rest of the afternoon was spent lounging on the comfortable furniture, reading, browsing the net or watching something. For dinner, we walked to the Peace café, another vegetarian restaurant, but it had moved so we ended up in the vegetarian restaurant across the road before heading “home” to watch a movie on the flat screen tv. It was almost like the shortest holiday in history.