
Day 317 – Holy Wisdom

Istanbul, Byzantium, Constantinople … Rome of the East. More than any other city has this place sparked our imagination. Rulers like Emperor Constantine and Justinian, Sultan Suleiman and even Mustafa Kemal Atatürk have made their mark.
Few places stand for the colorful history of this region like the Hagia Sophia. It was the third imperial church built on this spot. Later converted into the imperial Friday mosque for the Ottoman empire and finally turned into a museum in the new found Turkish Republic. If I ever had something of a bucket list, seeing this monument was definitively on it. So today, we did. It was only tainted by our apparently eternal sight-seeing companion, the scaffold. Well, needs must and renovations have to happen at some point.
All in all, those were two hours well spent. This building more than any other for me showed the marks of its impressive history. From the Roman era over the crusades up to the Ottoman times, each century has left a mark and left a piece that became part of the whole of what we see today. It feels like a great analogy for the city as a whole.
We went for a quite disappointing lunch afterwards, the second time in a row, and promised ourselves to ignore the Lonely Planet for the rest of the stay. We would rather check out the lovely looking places near our hotel on the southern end of Sultanahmet.
It ended up being just that for the rest of the day. After an afternoon rest in our room, we could not really muster the energy for more sightseeing today. Instead, we did check out a beautiful place up the road called mitara cafe & art. We had brilliant mezze and I had a huge glass of good Turkish red. A beautiful way to let the day fade out.
- Wednesday market with fresh fruit in Sultanahmet
- An original obelisk from Egypt
- A detail of the ceiling of the German fountain
- The Hagia Sofia, now a museum, from a distance
- Sultanahmet Camii or the Blue Mosque
- A remain of the second Hagia Sofia: The 12 apostles as sheep
- Beautiful ceiling in the entrance hall
- The inner sanctum: Built as a church, used as a mosque, now a museum
- Emperor Justinian’s monogram on the capitals
- Looking up at the Upper gallery
- Intricate inscriptions on the stained glass windows
- The walls are clad in marble; each panel framed and separated from the next one
- One of the places at the ceiling were the erased cross shines through
- Half of the main nave and one of the aisles were taken up by scaffolding
- The view from the Upper Gallery
- Part of a rediscovered mosaic from the 13th century
- Most of the Hagia Sofia is painted in yellow with different pattern but at some places the underlying mosaics have been freed
- Inlays in the Upper gallery arches
- Again, the crosses have been erased leaving some uninspired sticks standing
- Ablution fountain in the courtyard
- Inside one of the sultan’s tombs
- Mother of pearl inlays in a window shutter
- Great splashes of colour in this sultan’s tomb
- Our tiny looking up excellent hotel
- A piece of the old city walls with hiding holes
- The second level of a beautiful cafe which we had all to ourselves
- Food arrived and it tasted as delicious as it looks
- Three of the mezze in a blaze of light






























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