Faced with the tough choice of another week of school vs. a week of daytrips with me, Number 3 chose the latter. Not for lack of fun at school, but more out of fear of missing out. Nina did go all out this week, working basically nine to five.
It was quite the spectacular week, all in all. We ended up with all sorts of activities. A best-of-the-past walking tour, including the cable car, botanical gardens and CBD. One and a half days of Te Papa, including stalking mum over her work-coffee. A chill day with movie and snuggles.
But probably the highlight was renting an e-bike and one kids’ bike for Number 3 (sadly, he was still too small for even the smallest of the kids’ e-bikes) and going on an epic 30km ride along the eastern shoreline and over Mount Vic.
For convenience and to have a place for me to get a nap in during the day, we ended up taking Timmy into town on most of those days. Parking at Te Papa was both central and very convenient, and we were more flexible on when to leave and head back.
It was
Number 3’s worst night yet. I don’t know, he just woke up and up and up again.
In the end, the app said, he had 4.45 hours of sleep that night. If he had that
little sleep than I had as little as well.
Groggy, we
climbed out of the tent and down the ladder in the morning. But we had
breakfast booked at the campsite so we just had to survive packing first. We
weren’t as fast as we wanted to be but still took some time to talk to the NZ
couple on a motorbike a bit more. Then, we headed out for breakfast.
Leaving Coimbra over a bridge
I knew my expectations shouldn’t have been high and I somehow still
managed to be disappointed. Probably by the utter lack of jam for breakfast.
Given the choice between cold meats and cheese, I choose something sweet. Thus,
Flo was nice enough to get our own jam out of the car so I can have breakfast.
Today’s mission was to get to Porto. Portugal’s second biggest city is
our last big ticket item on the list. Probably since Mat and Liz introduced us
to port wine and Port Night, going to Porto and tasting port wine became a
thing in our minds. And now was the time to do it.
Being so tired we couldn’t be bothered to find a way around the toll road
and add extra time to the journey. We just paid the toll and were in Porto in
under 2 hours. Before lunch, with a good couple of hours before we needed to
find a camp ground for the night. Thus, we started to explore the city.
Parking somewhere on the south bank of the river Douro, we were in
walking distance to the inner city. The first thing that we came across was a
cable car up a nearby hill. A short check in the guide book told us that it’s a
thing to do to get views over the city and river so we hopped into it straight
away. A good start already.
From the cable car, we took the amazing bridge over the Douro. On foot.
The bridge actually has two levels: The upper one is for the metro and
pedestrians taking in the views nowadays, the lower level is for cars, buses
and more pedestrians.
On the other side of the river, we realized just how much it reminded us
of Wellington. The inner city is walkable without problems, everything is close
by actually. It is rather hilly and you go up and down and back up again. And
it was just…charming. And compact. Of all the cities we visited lately, Porto
is probably the one we liked most. More than Lisbon and Barcelona. It’s just…nice
to spend time here.
Going uphill
From the Ponte de Luís I it is about 50 meters to the Sé, Porto’s
cathedral. It was lunchtime though and we were hungry. So we went to a hipster
restaurant to enjoy some proper food. The waitress shook her head when I told
her I’m vegetarian and I had to go with starters and side dishes. We thoroughly
enjoyed it anyway. 🙂
After lunch, we stuck to our guns and decided to walk around for the
first day as it had worked well for us in Lisbon. The Lonely Planet suggested a
walking tour and we stuck to it. A detour to the train station was necessary to
change baby’s diaper. So we got to see the artfully hand painted tiles’ in there
as well. On Rua da Flores we ended up in a café with more pastel to eat.
But Porto is all about port wine, really. Vila Nova de Gaia on the south
bank is full of wine lodges, each sprouting a big name in port wine. Tours and
tastings are advertised everywhere, in every shop, every café, every bar. In
the chocolate place, I ended up buying a dark chocolate filled with port wine
ganache. Made with Graham’s Six Grape port wine.
At 4pm, we headed out to find a camp for the night. Preferably one with
a bus connection back into the city so that tomorrow, we could visit a lodge.
Still further uphill
The first one was already completely full. Flo dreaded the next one as
it had bad ratings on the usual websites. They had space though. It’s a municipal
camp ground and they were suckers for bureaucracy. It was the first place that
Number 3 needed papers to be allowed to stay. Everywhere else, Flo and my
national ID card was enough; here Baby needed his passport.
We rolled our eyes but it did it, went to a patch that looked okay and
started to pitch the tent. We had booked electricity for the two compulsory nights
so a staff member came by to connect us. When he saw that we wanted to have
electricity in a tent, he outright refused to connect us. We never had a
problem with this in more than a month of travelling…here, no way. So we were
stuck here for two nights and a full day without electricity to charge cell
phones, laptops and the camera. Our mood hit rock bottom.
Just when we were debating on leaving again, we got company. One of the
fellow campers wanted to have a look into our roof tent. When he learned why we
were so upset, he lent us his powerbank to charge our phones at least. Later,
he also charged our camera battery in his camper. So kind!
Leaving Coimbra over a bridge
First bridge in Porto
That’s what we plan to do!
And up we go
Me in the cable car
I guess you can feel like a pirate while tasting port wine?
View along the River Doura through Porto
The riverfront promenade
Ponte de Dom Luis I with iots two levels
Pictures on the bridge seem to be the thing to do…
…I rather kept my distance from the not high enough railing
Porto portrait
Graham’s lodge from afar
The side with all the port wine lodges
Lots of graffiti around
So close to the ocean, there are seagulls around
A giant mural
Small alleys
Going uphill
Our bread and olive starter looked like a still life painting
Flo could look into the kitchen and sneakily took some pictures of it
Great little detour to the train station
Statue on one of the fancy buildings around Avenida dos Aliados
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