Tag Archives: sunrise

Day 31 – Who needs a plan …

Good morning, France! Queuing at the border check point, ferry in the distance

I might give a few years off the tail end of my life if I could ensure that all days work out like this one. To begin with: We did not miss our wake up or run into any sort of issue disembarking the ferry. We woke up at 5am Irish time (6am local) to both my alarm as well as the gentle Irish folk music provided curtesy of Brittany Ferries. We had breakfast, bought just in time to avoid the mad rush and vacated our genius cabin in due time to leave the ship among the first waves. I even had time for a quick shower in our ensuite.

Running around, chomping on a pain au chocolat…what a good life our kids have 🙂

Next up, first destination back on French soil: Boulangerie patisserie – one of the few things open on Sundays in this land of liberty. By the time we had our first baguette in hand we were greeted by a wonderful sunrise over Roscoff’s old harbour. The light of the new day revealed what a quaint and pretty little town Roscoff was. We stuck around for a while, admiring the strange bell-tower, walking out on this seemingly endless pier. We liked it.

Still early in the day on a beach just out of the old town, we sat for a while thinking about what to do and where to go next. We were sorely missing a Lonely Planet guide for Brittany – it has become such a part of our traveling by now. Just something to sharpen the focus and find inspiration. Without such aide, we decided on an ambling “long way” route to a campsite only 140km to the east. We were glad to be able to draw upon the Rustiek Kamperen site again.

Before hitting the campground early for once, there was some road to be travelled. The ride was pretty high up there, following along through more cute villages along the shore as well as the cities of Morlaix and Lannion. The former of which was such a sudden revelation of cool and picturesque that we had to stop for a coffee and a wander. The main feature (for us) was this absolutely enormous railway viaduct crossing the narrow valley right at the point where the estuary was capped off by a small harbour and covered over to make space for the village square. Best of all, there was a path on the first level of arches accessible to cross and take in the views. A perfect surprise.

Just a short while after the baguette from this morning was ritually sacrificed on another of our now almost customary beach-side lunch stops. After lunch, given our early start, I was the only one left to really admire the scenery as snoozing ensued all around me for most of the rest of the way.

Bringing people together for an Indonesian Rice Table. The kids had their own table…mostly

That also meant no additional stops or delays before the campground, though. What a jackpot it was. Le Cheval Rouge was a rural farm renovated and run as a B&B / Glamping site by Dutch couple Chantal & Oliver. It was like it was made for us – very small and intimate, exceptionally kid friendly and without big campervans. Or many other campers at all – most other guests took the chance to stay in big family tents kitted out as glamping sites for families. Just as we were about to set up and enjoy the afternoon, the cherry on top was delivered: Sunday was the day for a communal dinner. Today it was Indonesian Rice Platter. We were just in time to decided to join in. Indonesian food? Mostly vegetarian, as Chantal is vegetarian, too! So many times, yes.

And so, we had, completely by accident, one of the coolest evenings of our European travels. A perfect warm late summer evening, everyone around a long table set out in their garden. Although we were the only non-Dutch guests, everyone was very kind in switching to German or English to accommodate us. Most of the guests were families with young children as well, the kids were playing, and the wine was good. I even got to spend a few minutes at the campfire even though the rest of my family has called it an early night.

Good times!

Leaving the ferry at 7am to see the first light of dawn behind it

Day 14 – Finally some rest

Having travelled for almost two weeks straight without any rest day, we were really craving a bit of doing nothing. Even when we spent two nights at the same camp ground (which happened twice so far), we still explored cities on those days. One can hardly call those “days off”, especially for Flo who usually carries Number 3 in the carrier backpack.

So today, was going to be a day of sweet nothingness. Of lazy lounging on the camp ground and of idle wandering towards the pool. We had exactly the right camp ground for this. And we had picked a good day for it as well: Not only was it Sunday (cough) but it was Election Day in Spain and we wanted to get out of any of the shenanigans that might come with it. It was a lovely sunny day to boot.

So we woke up to a sunrise over olive trees while camping underneath one. Between 9 and 11 our camp ground provide breakfast and it was divine. Nothing special but it came made for us, no work involved. Also breakfast is the best meal of the day. 🙂

“Doing nothing” turned into “slowly doing some chores” which included washing and drying our big pile of dirty laundry. Then we had the usual lunch with bread, cheese and the ton of ham and sausage that Flo had bought yesterday. An afternoon nap marked the time between lunch and the pool.

Number 3 was very keen on getting into the pool. His mind changed after he had his legs in the very refreshing water. Instead, he played a bit with the water jets while we took turns going for a short and rather hectic swim.

Flo prepared a lovely, mushroom risotto for dinner with a local sherry as the secret ingredient. Cordoba is in the sherry triangle of Spain apparently. Since the recipe only uses one glass, we had almost a whole bottle of sherry left…Flo can only drink so much. So he traded with our neighbours and was gifted with a glass of their sweeter sherry in return, which even I kinda liked.

Number 3’s bedtime had to be pushed to 30 minutes to an hour later than usual after yesterday’s disaster of trying to get a baby to sleep in a hot tent while the sun is still shining. On it. Just to be clear. Now, at about 8pm, dusk had already begun and Number 3 had no qualms with going to bed.

It left enough time to get a cold drink from the bar and sit quietly under an old olive tree for a while, watching the world turn pink, purple and blue. A generally great rest day was had. 🙂

Good morning olive trees
and good morning to you, blossoming old olive tree.
free entertainment in form of the lot barrierers
looking a lot more traveling vagabonde with a weeks worth of washing out
too much work, nap time
wanna play ball?
that is just about enough cold water
better to play with the round thing once more
technically we started here …
… and travelled all the way to the other side. With a bit of a break in between, maybe
looks good, but the little one learned his lesson around hot things about a minite from here
coulourful pastoral landscape all around

Day 259 – Hospitality

Slowly, the valley and plains appear out of the darkness

We got up really early today – 5.40 am – to see the sun rise over Wadi Ghul. It was uncomfortably cold outside, but the colours playing across the vast sky made up for it. At least for a while. Once the mornings glow had played out and the sun was up, it would take another 45 minutes for it to reach “our horizon”, the steep mountain across the valley. We decided that the time would be much better spend warming up and catching up on sleep hiding in the tent.

Ready to leave our little spot in the sky now

Once the sun was fully up and the tent warmed by the morning rays, we were ready to get out and start our day. We knew it would be the last packing up for a couple of days, so we took our time. Even so, the bike was packed and the road beneath us at about 9 am.

There was plenty of time in the day and our goal was only 300 km away in Sohar with no point being there before 5 pm. Based on that and the great condition of the gravel roads up here, I was able to convince Nina to explore a bit further. The highest point of Jebel Shams is another 1000m up. An Air Force radar station was build on top, so the map showed a road going all the way up. Naturally, I wanted to see how far we can go. I think the highest we had taken Rocinante so far was around 2400m.

Had to capture the epic-ness one more time

It turned out that this would have to stand for a while longer since there was a gate and guard house with a sign telling us that entry is prohibited. As we were about to turn around, an Air Force guard came out and after a moment invited us over. I am always up for coffee and we had nothing to do, so we accepted. Nasser and his aid Adi were amazing hosts. We got Omani dates and coffee until we thought we could take no more. Then they brought out the chai tea. We spent an hour with them, talking about out trip, their families and the world in general. What an amazingly warm experience.

When we were too full to eat any more dates or have any more tea, we received a “small” bag of dates for the road, about the size of a head. Glowing, we got ready and back onto the bike to leave Jebel Shams. Thank you Nasser and thank you Adi for such an amazing experience.

The beehive tombs are up on a ridge next to a dry wadi

There was one more box to tick before it was all about getting “home” again to Lina. Oman is famous for its many archaeological sites – the last one on our list was one of the groups of beehive tombs on the way. These towers were build more than 3000 years ago as burial mounds, but not much else is known about them. When we reached the site some time after lunch, we were surprised on how low key this was compared to so many other destinations in Oman. No big sign or infrastructure around. Just this amazing site at the other side of a wadi. Luckily, we had a point of interest in the GPS.

Wadi, gardens, a mosque and the mountain range give great context to the beehives

To get to the tombs, we had to cross a horticulture and gardens and then the dried up riverbed of the wadi itself on foot. It was actually pretty cool to get a good close up view of such an integral part of everyday Omani life. There were about a dozen towers in varying states of conservation, but for the most part it was pretty clear how this must have looked like. We wandered around a bit, took a heap more photos and walked back to the bike. There, we got talking to a farmer on his way back from his field. He told us that he emigrated 20 years ago from Islamabad and invited us for tea. With a heavy heart (we had 200 km to go) we declined as politely as we could and got back on the road. What a welcoming country!

The road between Ibri and Sohar leads through the mountains once more

The ride back was beautiful once more – even though we almost got lost at a road closure on the way. Oman is the country where our GPS data is probably most outdated – mainly because of the incredible speed with which new roads are being build or expanded. This road from Ibri to Sohar will soon be dualised and in prime condition. For now, it was still a beautiful highway through the mountains and then down a wadi towards the northern coastal plain.

The day ended in a little surprise. Last week, we checked with our friends whether they would be around during the weekend, to hang out one more time before we had to move on. We knew that we would arrive earlier in the week, though, and had sent texts to confirm today’s arrival. As it turned out, our texts got lost in limbo and Lina and Michael were quite surprised to have us right at their doorstep tonight. Soon the surprise had worn off, though. We got a nice dinner and the room prepared for us. It is so nice to be welcomed, even if one shows up “unannounced”.

: The sky has leopard spots…

: Slowly, the valley and plains appear out of the darkness

: So bloody cold for a sleepy Nina. Had to wrap myself into the sleeping bag

: It’s a brand new day and the sun is high…

: Ready to leave our little spot in the sky now

: Which is still looking impressive

: Had to capture the epic-ness one more time

: It’s an adventure!

: After our “how much coffee and dates can you take?” invitation we went into Wadi Ghul for a bit…riding on pebbles is quite hard work

: …and since we were late by now, we called it after a while

: These shaggy goats have been shaved

: The beehive tombs are up on a ridge next to a dry wadi

: Only access is on foot

: Nicely silhouetted by the blue sky

: They still stand quite tall

: Looking along the row of them

: There’s a tiny entrance but we didn’t dare trying it for real. So all you get is a fake shot

: Wadi, gardens, a mosque and the mountain range give great context to the beehives

: Looking into the other direction

: A whole plastic bag full of dates courtesy of Omani hospitality

: So yummy as a roadside snack

: The road between Idri and Sohar leads through the mountains once more

: And as always, it is pretty!

: And the road is still perfect, too.

Day 85 – Mt Tatamailau/ Ramelau

Uargh…usually that’s too early. What you are willing to do for a sunrise

To be able to see the sunrise from the summit requires you to get up early. Very early. The alarm clock went off at 2:45am so we could start at 3am. Right on time we were sitting on the veranda, waiting for our guide Aldo. Then we waited. And waited. When he hadn’t shown up by 3:20am, Flo checked that we had the hiking track on our GPS and we started without a guide. Hato Builico is about 1933 meters above sea level while the top of Mt Tatamailau, the highest point in Timor-Leste, is at 2986m.

Hiking in the dark was quite the adventure. We were lucky in so far as the moon was full and shedding much light as well. But still, you don’t see much more than what your headlamp shows you. If you turn the lamp off though, you could see many stars and off course the full moon so we took the time to take two long exposure photos in the dark.

View up the road with long exposure of the night sky. You can see a couple of the stars

First, we followed the “road” through the village and up to the entrance of the hiking track. Road is in quotation marks as it was a mixture between broken up asphalt, rough dirt and gravel. At one point, while following the asphalt, the road just disappeared into a drop. We took a picture of it on the way back.

The entrance to the hiking track is marked by a gate. This gate is an entrance monument for the pilgrimage up the mountain with Francis of Assis on it. Right behind the gate, steps start to lead up the mountain for a while. After a long series of stairs, the path turns into a dirt track that steeply climbs the mountain. Then it turns into goat tracks which zigzag up the side. One of the tracks had been “barred” with a branch; we took the advice and continued straight on.

First glimpse of the red sun

At 5am, the birds all started to sing on cue as the first light appeared on the horizon. A red shimmer started to glow while we made our way towards the ridge. Our headlamps were unnecessary at this point. On the ridge, there was a nice little cleared area with a perfect view onto the horizon where we stopped and watched the red sun rise about all the smaller mountains in the vicinity. The views were grand; not only with the sun rising but also with the morning fog still hanging in the lower valleys. It looked as if we were the only people around for miles.

Sitting down to watch the sunset was lovely but also really, really cold. As soon as we stopped at such an exposed place, I began to shiver so Flo and I put on all the cloths we had brought including hats and fleece snoods. Looking like in the middle of winter we waited for this summer day to begin.

The statue isn’t actually that big

After the sun had come up, we hiked the last part up to the platform to a statue of the Virgin Mary. The statue looks big on photos but is only about 1,50m in real life. Unexpectedly, there was a local up there, recording our arrival for the ministry of tourism.

From the platform, you can see far into every direction. Ramelau is pretty much in the center so you could see the ocean on two sides of the island of Timor. Indonesia/West Timor was visible in the west while Maubisse, Baucau and even the bay of Dili could be made out in the distance.

Standing on the highest point, looking over all the land stretching out to your feet was quite awe inspiring.

On the way back down, Flo and I were reminiscing about all the places we had been to already and struck with the idea of what is yet to come.

We took a different goat track down and realized that there had been a landslip at one point so that from there onwards, it was unpassable. Luckily, there were still zigzag tracks down to the other path that we had come up on. These were steep and slippery though so I was especially careful.

Now we could see what we climbed up in the dark

Now, with the sun up, we could see the surroundings of what we climbed in the dark which made retracing our steps a bit more fun than it usually is.

At about 10am, we were back at our guest house. We packed quickly and then sat down on the veranda for a break. Aldo appeared shortly but seemed to be too embarrassed to talk to us. He confirmed that he had overslept and then was not to be seen again. I guess he still felt bad about the $15 he could have earned as a guide…

Flo said he felt well enough to drive so we hopped on the bike, said our good-byes and took the long 18km of cobblestone road back out. Winding along three valleys, we didn’t stop much today as we already had a 6 hours hike behind us.

In Maubisse, we had a lovely lunch in the same café as yesterday. Coffee was one of the main selling points for Flo and also, the food had been good and much. I took a coke instead of coffee to wake myself up again as I could read the signs: Flo was eager to get back to Dili today instead of staying in Maubisse for the night.

Another four hours of driving later, we finally made it through all the road words again and were back in Dili. Herman and the other volunteers we asked were busy so we had time to wash clothes before heading off to bed at 8pm. I for my part was knackered at that stage.

: Uargh…usually that’s too early. What you are willing to do for a sunrise

: View up the road with long exposure of the night sky. You can see a couple of the stars

: View down towards Hato Builico with the night sky above

: Red glow and quite a bit of light already

: Finding the path in a twilight now 🙂

: This is without long exposure now. Even before the sunrise it was getting light enough to hike

: This is on the ridge where we sat down to watch the sunrise

: It was bloody cold as we even used the backpacks as windbreakers

: First glimpse of the red sun

: First beam of light

: The sun illuminating the landscape…

: …in a warm, early morning light

: Statue of the Virgin Mary on the summit

: Able to see up to the ocean

: The statue isn’t actually that big

: Looking into the sun is still not my strong suit…

: Looking out over the vast landscape

: Ridges behind ridges behind ridges

: Towards Indonesia

: Silhouetted against the sun light

: Looking towards the ocean in the other direction

: The guy from the ministry of tourism offered to take a photo of us two

: A small church on a plateau not far down from the platform

: Now we could see what we climbed up in the dark

: What a view!

: This is already the luxury version of the goat track

: Lovely bit through the forest

: Now we took a picture of the many steps we had to take

: The entrance gate to the pilgrimage and the start of the steps

: Looking back up to the summit from the entrance gate. If you see a white dot, that’s the statue of Mary. It is visible even in the valley

: Random slip in the road

: View down onto Hato Builico

: Arriving back at the guesthouse with Rocinante parked in front

: A small herd of horses caught our eye on the way out of the valley

: View down on the bay with Dili in the background

Day 77 – Chilling at Barry’s place

Originally, we had planned to take the water taxi back to Dili at 9.30am. However, yesterday night Barry told us that the water taxi is booked for a diving trip and thus will only make a trip at 3pm. Since we had nothing planned except for waiting for the bike, it didn’t bother us too much. Almost another full day on Ataúro with time to read and chill sounds promising.

The aforementioned “platforms” – great chill out.

Breakfast was lovely again, this time with pancakes. The usual eating room was booked for a full day workshop so we sat outside in the shade, having a lovely conversation with two German travellers, Lüder and Renate.

Afterwards, we occupied one of the “platforms” to read and write to our heart’s content. We watched as one of the huts at the beach got a new roof in the traditional manner and a veranda was added to the hut. Since not a lot happened, I’ll use the space to describe Barry’s place some more.

Heading over to Ataúro, Flo and I were almost certain that we would have no reception and no power so we left the laptop in Dili. As soon as we were in Beloi, it turned out that ‘no reception’ is a first world problem. Even in Adara, on the other side of the island, Flo’s mobile phone had a full signal. I am unsure about the power situation but Barry’s place at least had solar panels so we could have charged the phone or our laptop if we had brought either with us.

Ladle, pot, some soap. It was clean and just right for us

There is no sewer system on Ataúro so a long drop served as that. It must be quite good and efficient version, as despite a temperature of 30 degrees, the smell was minimal. I particularly liked the shower: A generous room with a basin full of water and two ladles to fill water into a pot with tiny holes above you and have it rain down on you. It is particularly nice if you have someone there who refills the pot constantly while you have a nice long shower. 🙂

Since we had to stay till 3pm, we had a last lunch on the island. Barry gave us the lunch for free, which was very lovely. Having fresh salad is always a treat but especially if it is prepared for you. Makes it feel more like a holiday.

At 3pm Tony’s water taxi and the dive crew arrived. They then had to unload all the air bottles so that we set out at 3.30pm. The taxi was rather small for crossing 35km of open sea and (at least in my humble opinion) the ride was rough. It was all I could do to hold on to the handrails and stare at the horizon…otherwise I’d probably been seasick. Flo enjoyed the ride way more than I did, looking out for flying fish (apparently there were many) and later for the Darwin trader. The ANL Darwin trader is the ship on which Rocinante is supposed to come over to Dili. It was scheduled to arrive at 9am this morning so Flo had his fingers crossed that he might see it in the harbour or, if we are lucky, already docked.

Oh what a joyous sight!

We were lucky: The Darwin trader was docked in the wharf and looked as if it was half empty already. Flo just stopped short of jumping for joy. 😉

Having land back under your feet is an amazing feeling, I can tell you. The ride over had taken 1 ½ hours so it started to get late in Dili. I will never really get used to the fact that near the equator, the sun simply sets at 6.30pm, no matter if it is summer or winter. It really cuts your daylight time quite short.

Hubert and Alex hard at work at the infamous Timor Backpacker

We had one last thing to do today: Walk past the backpacker in Dili and see if we can find any more motorcycle travellers. Chantal had told us about two more guys riding BMWs who are supposed to be staying there. It didn’t take us long to find them as they were out in the yard taking their bikes apart to clean them for the Australian biosecurity check. Hubert, a German traveller, and Alex, an Italian guy, took their work pretty seriously. There was even some scrubbing of a tire with a toothbrush. We had a chat and decided to have a drink together tomorrow night, once Chantal is back from Ataúro island as well.

: No words needed

: Our last sunset on Ataúro

: Ladle, pot, some soap. It was clean and just right for us

: All we could want …

: We remembered these from the Cook Islands

: Cheeky, this path leads straight to the beach

: as always. no idea …

: The aforementioned “platforms” – great chill out.

: Ferry distinctly preferred!

: A last glance along the beach

: We enjoyed our stay immensely!

: Almost 1000m high, coral limestone lifted from the sea.

: The highest point and “main” settlement

: Oh what a joyous sight!

: Hubert and Alex hard at work at the infamous Timor Backpacker

Day 75 – Beep, beep, beep…

Twice in one week, the alarm clock went off before sunrise. This time, the diabolical sound put an end to our peaceful slumber at 4am. I must admit that it was a small solace to know that Herman would break the peaceful slumber with us to drive us to the wharf.

Crowd waiting at the gate to embark

At the waterfront we found that a crowd had already gathered, sleep drunken, in the dark in front of the closed gate. Our tickets stated 4:30am, it was 5am now and nothing but goods was allowed through the gate – no reason to worry in Dili.

We shuffled through the gate at about 6am in the end, which was all well for us. The wait gave us a chance to get to talk to a group of malae waiting there with us. It turned out they had another motorcycle traveller in their midst. Chantal, recently from Australia, originally from the Netherlands, is on a very similar route to ours. Continue reading →

Day 45 – Valley of the Winds

The alarm clock went off at 5 am, supported by weird mobile-phone-like birdsong. We packed all necessary components for our breakfast, including cooker and water for tea / coffee and arrived at the viewing area parking space in good time for the 6:48 am sunrise. But alas, it did not end up being at all like what we were expecting from the sunset area.

Too many …

A lot of desert oaks around left a raised viewing platform as the only obvious spot, but it was already well full and only got more crowded as busloads of day-trippers with doggy bags arrived. All thought of a cozy sunrise breakfast were abandoned at this point – one of the slogans of the resort here is “experience the silence” – yeah, right!

But then, the first light had hit Uluru maybe 10 minutes ago, as if on a gong the show seemed to be over and everyone rushed back to their cans. We liberated a nice bench and table and even got a milk pack off one of the doggy-bag-carriers, with a bit of jealousy in his eyes seeing our apparent lack of any haste. So, 7:00 am, in the silence promised and with the morning light’s shadows creeping over the rock, we had our imagined breakfast.

from a viewing platform on a sand dune

Once we were full and happy again, we made our way out Kata Tjuta, another beautiful rock formation 50 km out from Uluru. After a photo stop on the way, we were ready to tackle the 7.4km Valley of the Winds walk. It was the perfect morning for it: Sunny, with an occasional cloud lending shade and not too warm. This track is closed when the temperature exceeds 36°C, or about 11am in summer.

We finished pretty much on the spot at 12 noon and headed back for a light lunch and to make the best of our $38 accommodation: Sleep in the shade, hop in the pool and have a nice barbie to round the day off.