Category Archives: Motorcycle

Day 177 – Bangkok, the never-ending city

Yeah, that's how it looks like

Yeah, that’s how it looks like

Today didn’t start so well. It might all sound very petty in the beginning but it started to add up over the course of the day. Our lovely hotel at the airport had a small cafe/restaurant attached to it. Flo had seen the menu last night, said it looked nice and wanted, at last, to have a nice breakfast there. However, it turned out to be not that nice. You could only order American breakfast which we did. We ordered it without the sausages and bacon which didn’t happen. When she brought us the tray and realized the mistake, we were handed the plates after she’d removed the meat. Thus, for the price of 120 baht PER PERSON, we now had two half-cooked fried eggs, one slice of toast with jam, an orange juice and bad tea and coffee.

This was the first time today, we regretted spending money on something.

New screw is used and just needs to be shortened

New screw is used and just needs to be shortened

As you might recall from yesterday’s post, we had fixed two problems and had created two problems. First, one of these things on the front wheel was now broken. Given that we are planning to ride into Cambodia, we rather wanted it to be fixed here. Waranyu, who was so super helpful yesterday, had sent us GPS coordinates of a workshop where we could get it fixed.

The mechanics were very helpful and within 1 1/2 hours they had gotten out the part that was broken off and replaced it with a screw. The screw was too long so they sheered off the part that was too long as well. Flo could definitely do a better job of describing it but you have the pictures to understand what I’m trying to say. 😉

So the first of our new problems was taken care of. The second problem were Flo’s gloves. Since we had left his broken ones at Touratech yesterday, he was riding without gloves. Well, he used his workshop gloves but they were no good. No real protection and the synthetic made his hands sweat a lot. So we stopped at the roadside and bought a pair of super-basic bike gloves for $10. While we were on the way to the motorbike shop to look for real touring gloves. *facepalm* In this synchronized moment of stupid, we needlessly spent more money than we needed to. Another regret.

PANDARIDER!

PANDARIDER!

Of course, pandarider had gloves. A lot of the selection was leather which is too hot for this weather but Flo found a pair of light summer gloves that he thought were okay. Note, he didn’t like them much but they were okay. Also, he had to buy them in XXL because he is a freakishly tall European with giant hands. *lol*

With all of our problems fixed, we now “only” had to leave Bangkok and ride to Chanthaburi, our last stop before Cambodia. But Bangkok didn’t want to let us go. Traffic was horrendous again and we were still in the city for a long while. Already not feeling too perky due to much money spent on things unnecessarily, we stopped at a huge mall to stock up on sunscreen and on cash. While I bought the sunscreen we’ve been looking for for a while, Flo had a disaster at the ATM. See, we have to pay fees every time we withdraw cash. Thus, we generally withdraw the largest amount possible so we only have to withdraw once or twice in each country. In this transaction now, Flo accidentally pressed “use local conversion rate” instead of “charge credit card with foreign currency”. This sounds like a pretentious thing to do but it actually makes a very big difference. Our credit card uses a good exchange rate while the local one is usually worse. And of course, using the local rate resulted in us loosing $100 worth of NZ money. Which means the money was charged to our credit card but we got not enough Thai baht out of the ATM for it. Bad rate. Now feeling utterly defeated for today, we had a cry and then lunch at McDonald’s.

Waiting for our fate next to the toll gates...

Waiting for our fate next to the toll gates…

Still, the city was not ready to let us leave. Navigating the traffic and the many, many streets, we ended up on the motorway. The “no motorbikes allowed” sigh was half-way up the ramp so we saw it too late and then there was no way to turn back anymore. So we reached the toll gate and were waved to the side, made to stop and a lot of “culprit” pictures were taken of us. Communication was impossible as no one seemed to speak English. So the man in the uniform with the strict face made us get off the bike and wait for our doom. I was certain we were going to be fined for using the motorway as motorcycles are not allowed on it and nearly cried again. Flo was very worked up but had to restrain himself as you don’t want to insult any officials. So we sat around. The man then told us in very broken English that we needed to get off the motorway. Sure, we knew that. So we had to wait for a car to arrive which could accompany us to the exit. It would take about 15 min.

After 30min, the car arrived. More pictures of us were taken. But they also let us know that we were free to leave with this car, without paying a fine. What a relief! So we rode behind the car…for a whole 50 meters as this is where the next exit was. Really? You made us wait so we wouldn’t ride 50 meters without company? Anyhow, super relieved, we finally, finally left Bangkok behind.

Lovely hostel, away from Bangkok ;)

Lovely hostel, away from Bangkok 😉

Things started to improve. First of all, the traffic was waaaaay lighter so we made good speed. Second, Flo actually enjoyed riding the bike while listening to an audio book. Third, we had a lovely coffee stop with iced coffee and iced chocolate to lighten our mood. Fourth, though with all the delays we had to ride till sunset, we found a lovely, cheap place to stay. It was in an old hospital, now refurbished as a hostel, opened only in 2014 and cost all of NZ$18 for the night. AND there was a food market nearby so Flo volunteered to buy dinner there which resulted in an amazing mix. Salad as a starter, dumplings as a main and nuts-honey-coconut mix for dessert.

 

 

 

Day 176 – Getting tyre’d

We are close to Bangkok and the goals for the day are simple. First, get a set of new tyres. Second, finally replace the partly dissolved Touratech Compañero gloves. They were basically gone since Timor-Leste.

The tire is screwed. That puts the nail in the coffin ... sorry :)

The tire is screwed. That puts the nail in the coffin … sorry 🙂

I forgot to call ahead on both accounts, but have been in email contact a week or so back. What could go wrong? So we made our way to Asiana Moto, the licenced Heidenau importer for Thailand to get issue number one sorted.

Having all day to do stuff really helps to ease the stress of urban traffic quite a bit. After a comically bad breakfast at a little coffee shop attached to a petrol station, we started the 50km journey from the west of Bangkok to the shop located in the north-east. Traffic was heavy and slow going, but mostly cars, and those quite orderly. Even though we are about 110 cm wide with the luggage, we probably cut an hour or so out of our trip by lane splitting when possible. All in all, it took us about two hours to get there.

When we were within 1 km of the shop, I though I felt the bike behave oddly, and when we pulled up I was certain there was an issue with the rear tyre. I was right, a decent sized screw has embedded itself in the tyre, but unfortunately something else became evident: The shop seemed to be closed today. Oh … that may be an issue.

Turns out, the zega pro has its uses as a stilt for propping up the bike.

Turns out, the zega pro has its uses as a stilt for propping up the bike.

Luckily, I managed to get hold of Waranyu who is managing the store while the owners are out and about. Unfortunately, he was in Pattaya, 3 hours south of where we were. Nonetheless he promised to check the inventory to see if he could help us at all. Things got a bit hectic right then, while I took the wheel off (something needed to be done anyway, new tyre or not) a group of Thai arrived to help us maybe get the tyre fixed and Waranyu called back with news of an available rear in the shop.

I got hauled into a taxi, but the auto tyre shop could not help us with the tubed wheel and sent us off again. I did learn though that the tyre itself also had a tear lengthwise and should not be used even with a fixed tube. Meanwhile, Nina had talked to Waranyu and he agreed to get in the car and meet us at the store in 3 hours. What a hero!

yea, no way ... could not even break the bead.

yea, no way … could not even break the bead.

So we settled in. Nina got her book out and I got to work on the wheel, just for practice and to find out if I actually could fix a puncture myself if I needed to. The sobering result of that experiment was that no, with my tools I see no chance I would be able to break the bead on the rear. Not even after a quick lunch.

A bunch more Thai showed up, including a paramedic, eager to help. I was not able to break their enthusiasm and explain that I was just mucking around while waiting for Waranyu to open up the shop. Everyone was eager to try. Bigger tyre leavers were produced, but one by one, they failed (which soothed my hurt pride a bit). The tyre was still happily sitting on the rim unchanged when Waranyu showed up and was able to explain what was going on.

With the proper machinery, a new rear tyre and tube were fixed in no time and my biggest worry was taken care of. Which left the question of how to deal with the front. It was better off, but I doubt it would have another 5000 km in it for the round trip until we returned to Bangkok. There were no 100/90 19″ K60 available, neither the more road-y K76. I knew from NZ that I could squeeze a 110/80 19″ in if need be, but that it would be tight. The K76 fit, but the K60 was about 2 mm to wide when not on the rim.

proper tools handled by someone who knows what he is doing ...

proper tools handled by someone who knows what he is doing …

Waranyu when upstairs and rummaged around for a while until he emerged with an only half worn K60 from the discard pile. That one fit and we gave it a shot. A little drum roll, but it fitted even when on the rim. The best thing: I got this one for free! Thank you heaps Asiana Moto and Waranyu – that was a life saver.

Unfortunately, I spoiled the victorious mood a bit when I sheered off one of the four bolts securing the mounting plate of the front axle while putting everything back together. My story is that it was nicked before by a rock and I will stick with that … regardless, Waranyu was super helpful once more and gave us the address of a workshop we could go to tomorrow to get it sorted. The issue is not too bad, but nothing you want to go into both Laos and Cambodia if you have the chance to fix it before.

With big smiles and a photo session we took off for the Touratech Thailand premises another 35 km to the southeast, near the international airport. We made it there in time before they closed down and were welcome by Somjin. Sadly, the gloves I was using have been discontinued and the new summer gloves are not yet available in Thailand. Nonetheless, I left my, now utterly ruined, pair here to be send back to Germany for a post mortem.

Whohoo ... so far we have interacted with every TT distributor along the way ;)

Whohoo … so far we have interacted with every TT distributor along the way 😉

At least we got a replacement for the broken carrying handle strapping down our tent (yes, we are still carrying a tent …). We concluded our visit with a customary photo-in-front-of-sign session and were off for our resting place for the night.

We made use of being so close to the airport and for a cheap but cool place usually for people awaiting their flight. On our way there we passed a night market and stocked up for dinner. Markets like these are a pretty cool thing in Thailand. People sell single dinners in plastic bags, ready for assembly at home. This seems to be a popular thing among Thai. We each got something for us and then a sweet thing for dessert. All for less than $4 in total. Whohoo!

A final goody that night was that when the hotel staff saw all our gear they upgraded us to a superior room, so that we only had to lug it up two flight of stairs instead of six. Ah, what a day.

Day 175 – Cool runnings

Awesome limestone cliffs up ahead

Awesome limestone cliffs up ahead

There had been a storm that night, the remnants of which could be felt even this morning. With the temperatures dropped by about 15 degrees, an overcast sky and a gusty wind, we felt homesick for Wellington for the first time in a while.

But it was no good; it was time to leave again. Actually, the cool weather was great for riding. So we hung around just long enough for one more breakfast of Thomas’ home-made bread and got our “horse” saddled. It felt good to be rolling again.

In 18 degrees, this just looked so much like NZ

In 18 degrees, this just looked so much like NZ

The first couple of roadside attractions along the way could not tickle our fancy this day. We therefore stayed on the main road north until we came upon the Khao Sam Roi Yot National park. We turned off the main road towards the coast for a little 60 km detour through this park and the region around. This time, we were quite chuffed about our decision to do so. Jutting limestone cliff all strewn around a flat freshwater wetland. The view was great, much better than sticking to the dual carriage way of the main road all day.

It was here that we finally had some sense and got out our wind and water proof outer jackets we have been carrying tucked away since that one time in Sumatra. A wise decision indeed. This, in combination with the audio book (Book 2 of the Barthemaeus trilogy), got us into an almost zen-like riding mode.

Time for a HOT chocolate, me thinks :)

Time for a HOT chocolate, me thinks 🙂

This might also be the reason that once we reached our rough endpoint for the day at Amphawa (famous for it’s floating markets, which were not on today) we decided to … ride some more. The selection of hotels seemed much better at the western outskirts of Bangkok. Just another hour later, it turned out to be true. We even only got to experience a very small bit of famed Bangkok grid on our way there.

Nina’s comment: We were really happy with riding the bike today but as soon as we got back into towns or cities, accidents seemed to happen. We stopped at a roadside motorcycle shop to buy some chain oil when a scooter with two young ladies on it turned a corner, didn’t watch out for traffic or just simply didn’t care and pushed another scooter of the road. The man reacted quickly and was incredibly lucky that he made it up on the footpath which had a very high step here but there he fell. Parts flew off his scooter and I was seriously worried about him until he jumped up and angrily cursed after the ladies who just drove off. The second accident was nothing we witnessed but something that we stumbled upon. We turned a corner and there was a scooter on the ground. It was picked up in this moment by a helper and then we noticed the woman sitting on the pavement. My first thought “Wow, she’s lucky, not even road rash” when we simultaneously realized that her shin looked odd and her foot was an a strange angle…definitely broken. She was taken care off so we passed but I had my fingers crossed for Bangkok because accidents don’t seem like fun at all.

The only fail, really, of this day was our feeble attempt at getting a cheap, vegetarian dinner. After 30 minutes of looking and not finding, we resigned to Nutella toast and snacks for dinner instead.

Overall, we were satisfied though. Cheap, clean hotel and only 50 km to go to the tire shop. What could go wrong?

Day 172 – 20.000 miles over land (well, kilometers really)

Waking up to this cool but eerie view.

Waking up to this cool but eerie view.

Getting up in the Khao Sok National Park, we got a taste of why it is the wettest region in Thailand. It didn’t rain as such but thick clouds were hanging so low that everything was covered in fog and thus also quite damp. Though Silver Cliff had been an awesome accommodation with really good food last night, it was slightly too expensive to stay for breakfast. Instead, we hit the road early looking out for a roadside food stall.

The second one we tried had at least coffee so we decided that it would do. Food-wise, only curries were served: Big pots with fish, chicken, pork and beef curries. But nothing vegetarian. Given that I wasn’t that keen on curry for breakfast anyway, I found some sweet buns in a nearby shop. Flo dug into the pork curry in the meantime and was rewarded with a plate full of cucumber and beans as a side and a bunch of bananas as dessert.

The moment when the fog broke ... wow

The moment when the fog broke … wow

After breakfast, the sky started to clear which made for some great shots of the National Park. The road was fun as well so our spirits were high. Leaving the National Park behind, we had to come up with a plan of where to next. A great dam was advertised as a tourist attraction so we went there to have a look. Leaving the dam, we saw that we missed the iconic “55555” on Rocinante’s display by 4 kilometers and then realized that we have made more than 20.000 kilometers on this trip alone now. Continue reading →

Day 170 – Familiar territory

To not repeat our mistake in regards to the tropical heat, we set the alarm clock for sunrise this morning. Luckily still being somewhat close to the equator, sunrise is at 6.30am which isn’t even too bad. So we got up, packed our tent away and drove off in search of breakfast.

no words, just gawk

no words, just gawk

The Hat Chao Mai National Park is really pretty, even along the road. We stopped to take some pictures on a bridge because the water looked amazing in the early morning light. About 100 meters behind the bridge, we found a row of food stalls, many of which were already open. So we sat down at a table in the sand, ordered fried rice, decadently rich Chai tea and enjoyed our view. The limestone cliffs offshore make for such an interesting coast line.

Again, we were having problems with Rocinante’s electronics. This lead to us to doing little hops between shops,hoping to find a hard ware store somewhere. Flo needed contact cleaner spray as he detected that the battery was having troubles as well. Along the road, we found a mall which had EVERYTHING so we even got to replace the missing electrical tape from way back when.

Bonebreaker on the scooter, but no match for battle hardened Rocinante.

Bonebreaker on the scooter, but no match for battle hardened Rocinante.

From here on out, we came to familiar territory soon. Having spent a special holiday around Ao Nang already, the scenery around Krabi looked like home. We waved to the airport as we passed. Since the bike hadn’t been with us on the holiday, we decided to stay another night at the Discovery Resort to give Flo the opportunity to see how Rocinante performs on the roads that nearly killed my spine on a scooter.

Arriving at the resort, no one was there. Or at least no one we knew. A quick phone call later saw Dah and another staff member return. Big smiles and waves when they saw us but still only

I'm getting good at taking the fairings off ...

I’m getting good at taking the fairings off …

a 200 baht discount per night. Buh hoo. This made it rather expensive but we still stayed for the night. Arriving at our destination so early gave Flo time to work on the bike again. AGAIN everything came off, got cleaned and the contact spray was used. Two things might have possibly been the culprit: One washer was missing on the battery side of things which might have resulted in a bad grounding or a connector near the impact site form the fall recently was bad, as it had burn marks from having sparked multiple times. Fixing both seems to have done the trick, Rocinante started reliably again. Fingers crossed! But actually, the starting process sounds better already so we are hopeful.

Otherwise, the day was uneventful; filled with jumping into the swimming in the pool, catching up on the blog, one more dish of fried vegetables with cashew nuts and a movie in the evening. 🙂

 

Day 169 – Run for the sun

Again on the "old" bridge ... it was just shorter

Again on the “old” bridge … it was just shorter

We could not find any more destinations or activities in Malaysia that were able to re-kindle the fire and joy that has been missing for a couple of days. Nina and I talked a lot about how we feel about the trip, what we thought were the reasons and what we might do with it. One decision that came out of this was to call it for Malaysia and head over to Thailand, today. There was still doubt, though. Are we missing out? We also did not want to do Malaysia dis-justice, when we were so hyped up about exploring here after coming over from Sumatra.

My last bid for a set of Heidenau K60 in Malaysia fell short as well, so at 10:30 it was time to hit the road for the last 150 km in Malaysia. Since I could not find them in Thailand either, it might come that we need to settle on a different tire soon. There was an importunity to get the promising looking Metzeler Karoo 3, but unfortunately they do not make a front in Rocinante’s size. Continue reading →

Day 167 – Learning about electronics

We had a very simple (read: not good) breakfast in the Red Inn Heritage hostel and then retreated back to our room. Since we had been told quite clearly yesterday that we weren’t really wanted here, we just used the wifi to update the blog before packing. Through agoda, we booked into the hostel around the corner to have our night sorted before starting any work on the bike.

Flo's lunch: The daily special

Flo’s lunch: The daily special

At 11am, Flo managed to speak to Jonathan on the phone and he agreed to have a look at Rocinante after lunch. He would even seek us out in our new accommodation. Having set up this meeting, we moved all our stuff into the Guest Inn Muntri and went out for a quick lunch at a Chinese place. Flo ordered the daily special which turned out to be something that looked slightly like a seared sausage. It apparently didn’t taste too bad. I went for the more conservative option of rice and vegetables. However, the vegetables arrived with prawns and I was just surrendering to a lunch of plain rice when the waitress realized that I didn’t touch my food, asked if prawns were okay and when I shook my head, took it away and replaced it with pure vegetables. Win!

"Under the hood"...undergoing surgery

“Under the hood”…undergoing surgery

After lunch, we sat outside the hostel, briefly waiting for Jonathan. He arrived pretty soon after and went right to work on Rocinante’s electronics. The ECM (Engine control module) was checked thoroughly without showing any cracks or dents. So Jonathan concluded that the connection had to be bad. This part of the motorcycle is similar to a computer and here is what I gathered happened to our bike: The different metal connections sit in place for years, making the bike run smoothly. Every bit of the surface that isn’t used, oxidized with time. After the square hit, the connections shifted slightly so that now, oxidation was sitting on oxidation, weakening the connection having the effect of a loose connection…one time it works, the other it won’t.

Jonathan and Flo discussing tyres

Jonathan and Flo discussing tyres

So the solution seemed to be unplugging and re-plugging everything for a couple of times so that oxidation would be scrapped off, allowing the connection to go back to normal. It worked! After the treatment, Rocinante started reliably again and Flo learned something about the electronics’ side of the bike. Mechanically, he is well versed by now.

Jonathan is a very busy man so he declined our offer of a coffee as “thank you” for his help but me being very, very relieved and Flo feeling off today meant that we declared this day as a rest day and went back to relaxing instead of sight-seeing.

While blogging in the communal area of the guest house, we met Josy and Peter, two German backpackers (https://fuckitwereleaving.wordpress.com) who travel South-east Asia now, Japan, Australia and New Zealand are still to come later in the year. This gave us more than enough in common to fuel conversation so we made it a date to have dinner together on the night food market.

...with chocolate cake...

…with chocolate cake…

Before this though, I dragged Flo into the Purrfect Cat Cafe; a cafe that serves coffee and cake but also has a room with up to eight cats that you can pat. I had tried to get us in around 3pm but was turned away because the cafe was already full on a Sunday afternoon. She recommended to come back at a later time  maybe after 6pm. So we went back there.

I liked the cake and tea but was slightly disappointed about the cats: They were clearly peopled out for today. Most of them were up on a cupboard where no one could reach them while one was sleeping on the window sill, not caring if it was patted or not. A second one hopped down for the cupboard later on but went to a chair and even turned its back on Flo when he approached. This cat would also endure patting without looking too happy about it.

So dinner it was. Flo and I went for dumplings on the night market this time. I thought that the spinach and pumpkin ones were vegetarian before being told that they contain prawns so I got stuck with a plate of all sweet dumplings. Guess it could have gone worse.

Day 166 – Wear and tear

These were the kindest, loveliest, most heart-warming people we met in a while

These were the kindest, loveliest, most heart-warming people we met in a while

There is no doubt about it, this day started way better than it would eventually conclude. We remembered from yesterday that the lovely place we had lunch at also serves breakfast. Since the breakfast at our hotel was underwhelming to say the least, we were more than keen to go there. The owners actually remembered us from yesterday and were super kind once more. We had delicious strawberry pancakes and our usual coffee and tea setup. It’s these encounters that keep us going, honestly.

Rocinante between the two GS DownUnder bikes.

Rocinante between the two GS DownUnder bikes.

Only 200m after packing the bike and hitting the road, I spotted something out of the corner of my eye that had us stop again right away. A pair of overlander bikes, with the unmistakable Touratech panniers were parked on the main street of Tanah Rata. We stopped and had a look around until we found Bjorn and Willemien in the same Indian restaurant we had dinner last night. They have come down overland from the Netherlands. Since we already had breakfast, we kept it to a brief chat, exchanged some contacts and went back on the road.

It was not too far though, and the first disaster of the day was about to strike. We refueled a couple of kilometers north before we intended to tackle Gunung Brinchang (highest public road in mainland Malaysia). But then, Rocinante would not start with what looked like a flat battery. Only that it should not have been flat. A suspicion started to creep up on me while we push started the bike down the hill.

The stupid fall last night when I tried to lubricate the chain on my own? Well, instead of just falling flat on her side, Rocinante hit a massive flower pot that went right into the left rear cover. That panel covers all the really important electronic parts of the bike: Regulator, ABS computer, ECM (Engine management) and fuse box. It did not look too damaged from the outside, though …

Sure enough though, right after the push start the next issue arose. The ABS light was blinking, warning about an issue with the break system. So we stopped on the roadside 100m on and I had a look under the cover with the engine kept running. Luckily, this issue was sorted by forcing the plug of the ABS unit back in properly.

A little boulder had come down a while ago...

A little boulder had come down a while ago…

The road up to Gunung Brinchang was sealed all the way, all though a bit worse for wear. The only mild worry were all the big land-cruisers zipping about with loads of tourists on board. With the road pretty steep and narrow, Nina got a bit worried that one of these cattle haulers might come flying and knock us off the road. Gladly, none of the sort happened. Only that reaching the top was a bit of a let down in the end. The clouds were hanging so low that there was nothing to see here. Oh well, at least Rocinante started without issues or warning lights this time …

And then, the world disappeared

And then, the world disappeared

Next stop, Ipoh! The mountain road was nice, until the clouds drew darker and darker. This time, we missed our 30 second window to stop and decided to put on wet weather gear, and so we got drenched through when the first bit of rain hit. The rain here is really an all or nothing affair.

We decided against another detour with minor sights around Ipoh and headed for the center of town instead for some lunch. At first we could not find the restaurant from the Lonely Planet we wanted, then found another recorded one which would turn us away again at the mention of Nina’s vegetarianism. Hot and frustrated we got back onto the bike, when real disaster struck. A push of the starter button did not produce the reliable humm of the starter motor but instead “crashed” the electronics of the bike. Rocinante would not start, and for the first time ever I did not know the cause right there and then.

We pushed her one street over to where the restaurant was that we were initially looking for, only to find out that it was closed. Defeated we dropped into the first forgettable eatery we saw and considered our options. Just in case I checked in with one of our contacts for workshops in Ipoh.

I was able to get the bike started again, after some tinkering with the electronics under the side cowl. Less exciting was the fact that the issue seemed to be related to the Engine Control Module, a prohibitively expensive black box type computer controlling engine operation. Well, once started, she seemed to be running fine …

The 150 km to Penang flew by in no time on the motorway. For no particular reason, we took the “old” bridge over onto the Island. Impressive as it is, the new 27 km long motorway over the sea seems impressive to say the least. This is the only time that even motorbikes need to pay the toll in Malaysia. We could not find any place to pay our RM1.40 in cash. Just when we were about to fork over RM20 for a toll card, someone handed us his wave & go card and payed for us to get through. Since toll is only payed getting onto the island, we were sorted! Nice.

In town, the day wound down with another minor series of catastrophes. The road to our intended hotel was closed for a movie shoot, the hotel was full and a fat white man got randomly prissy with us. Then we got ping ponged between three of the many Red Inns of George Town’s Love Lane.

Night food market near our hostel

Night food market near our hostel

As often, the day concluded in a great positive encounter with a local contact. Through Tony from Touratech we got hooked up with BK. He has just come back from a 6 month trip on Honda Waves to London and is somewhat of a local legend. We went out to an amazing food court, talked about traveling and everything else and went home with a contact number for Jonathan, the local motorcycle electronics wizard!

 

Day 164 – Once more with feeling

Today is the third time we “leave” Kuala Lumpur. All jokes aside, it will very likely also be the last time we set off. We left Sonja and once again all we had to give was an inadequate ‘thank you’. We receive so many acts of kindness. People go out of their way to help us, often as if it were the only logical thing to do. We say ‘thank you’, take a photo and move on, but without all this kindness, we would have provably given up a while ago. This is what keeps us going and is, for a big part, also why we are on the trip in the first place.

Frankly, Nina and I talk often about how we will repay this life debt. Not in the sense of to “repay” everyone we meet, but in general. What can we do to give others this immense warmth?

Did not realize how much of our gear is in coprate colours

Did not realize how much of our gear is in coprate colours

To follow right up in the same vein: I wisely gave Tony Lim a call after breakfast. He is the Malaysian importer for Touratech and had a shop in Penang, where we will arrive in a couple of days’ time. Or so I thought. I found out just in time that the info on the Touratech website is outdated and he moved shop to a suburb of Kuala Lumpur. Unfortunately, I also learned that the two pieces of Touratech kit I was hoping to replace were out of stock, but after a brief discussion we decided to pay them a visit nonetheless. After all, our bike is so kitted out with their stuff that we once were asked what kind of motorcycle brand Touratech be. 🙂

It turned out that Tony and his staff are incredibly kind and hospitable people. After a last ditch attempt to at least find one pannier-carrying handle to replace ours (which has a broken buckle) we got invited to lunch! At our pick, we went to this lovely Malay place. There were even all sorts of desserts thrown in for us to try out. I liked the rice with palm sugar water steamed in tapioca leaves.

Nina’s comment: It didn’t stop with a simple invitation for lunch. No, Tony made dead sure I had enough vegetarian food available and, in the end, even got me a take-away bag with rice crackers because I grew to like the crunchy addition to lunch a lot!

Everyone sports the Touratech logo but we are the ones with the most yellow ;)

Everyone sports the Touratech logo but we are the ones with the most yellow 😉

Before the mandatory good bye photo session, Tony loaded me up with contacts for Georgetown and Bangkok as well as some Touratech merch to replace some of our wearing wardrobe.

We took the motorway north all the way to the turn off for the Cameron Highlands. The ride was once again blissfully smooth, the one brief gust of rain not withstanding. At least this gave us a chance to experience another cool feature of Malaysian road infrastructure. Here, motorcyclist are not left “standing in the rain” or ducking precariously under bridges but rather every bridge is upgraded as a proper rain shelter. With little ramps leading on and off to get out of the way of the trucks. Even on stretches without bridges, there are little shelters set out in good intervals.

The moth it was eating was bigger than most spiders I know ...

The moth it was eating was bigger than most spiders I know …

Turning off the motorway we got the last bit of shopping done to be prepared for our first night camping. Or so I thought … As we arrived at the designated campground / nature park we first were a bit unsure because it was almost fully abandoned. No money collected at the entrance booth, the cafes all closed up and locked down. That alone would probably not have stopped us, but walking around to check out the site we found something that surely did: Two massive spiders, as big as my hand sitting in nets spanning 2 meters across one of the paths. Right next to the designated camp sites. Nina pulled her veto card – for what I think was the first time on the trip. We explored the site for a little while longer, enjoyed the also enormous Raja Brooke butterflies and then headed off further up towards the Cameron Highlands.

We ended up booking into the Twin Pines hostel. Back to slightly moldy rooms and shared bathrooms it was, but at least at $16 NZ the price tag was good 🙂

Day 163 – Batu Caves

Trying to find breakfast in Melaka is almost as hard as finding dinner after 7pm. The Lonely Planet suggested cafes but when we got there, it was either closed or didn’t exist (to our knowledge). Not feeling like indulging in yesterday’s Western-style cafe, we ended up in the same Indian restaurant we were in the night before. THEY open at 7.30am, serve coffee and chai AND we were quite certain we would be able to find SOMETHING to eat. And we did. Despite Flo’s best efforts to get a savoury doughnut with chili and spices in it that you dip into curries and chutneys, we had yummy Roti Pisang which is the Indian version of banana pancakes.

Final lap. This is the southernmost point we will reach on the continent.

Final lap. This is the southernmost point we will reach on the continent.

Thus filled, we rode our ‘good-bye lap’ through the city center and left towards Kuala Lumpur. Since we had the whole day, we had planned for the scenic route along the coast instead of taking the motorway. It turned out to be not scenic at all as the GPS showed us the coastline right next to us but all we could see was a row of houses. Also, the road was rather boring. A short stop at Port Dickson didn’t convince us to stay longer so after lunch, we hopped on the motorway again. Being so early gave us the opportunity to see the Batu Caves today.

Maybe we should have read about who this is ...

Maybe we should have read about who this is …

I knew before that the caves are not far from the city but truthfully, they are IN the city. They are also a major tourist attraction which is why traffic picked up…nothing you particularly want after being steam-cooked on the motorway in the afternoon heat. After finding a parking spot, we had a cold drink before starting on the 272 steps up into the largest cave. It has Hindu carvings and a temple in it as it plays a big part in a celebration coming up at the end of January. The two caves used for this purpose are HUGE. Certainly as big as a cathedral and also the biggest cave we’ve ever been in. Preparations for the celebration were going on: Floor newly resealed and parts of temples newly painted.

Apart from looking at the grandeur, there is nothing to “do” in these caves though. It is very cool to go and see the caves (it’s also free) but we had the feeling, we wanted a bit more out of it. Luckily, next door there is the “Dark Cave” leading tourists in and out again in 45min tours. The “Dark Cave” is a habitat for bats, cave spiders and other creepy crawlies and also part of a conservation effort for limestone caves. Flo, being a big fan of limestone caves, and me being kinda meh about the whole thing, signed up for the tour. We only had to wait 15min for the next one and when we were fitted with hard helmets and torches, I got very excited about it, too.

All excited now and ready to go!

All excited now and ready to go!

Our guide was a woman whose English was excellent…unfortunately, the same could not be said about our fellow tour participants who violated rules every so often because they hadn’t understood them. We didn’t see any of the bats (it’s not a good idea to shine a torch on 200.000 bats on a cave ceiling) but you could definitely hear them; not to talk about all the guano on the ground. We managed to see caves spiders, venomous centipedes and cave crickets. Also, one part of the cave system has light coming in from above and it looks so much like Moria that it made me miss a step. 😛

There was less sunshine when we came back out again and also less tourists. Given that it was also 5pm, we guessed that the caves close around that time. We, now,had our next place to visit: Sunny cycles. On the way down to Melaka one of Rocinante’s warning lights went on and stayed on for the entire trip south. While the manual assured us that this particular warning light is not for anything crucial, Flo wanted to have it checked out. It took about 30min and stripping the bike down to pull the engine up (again) before it could be fixed. The “air intake hose from the air filter” (Flo-speak) was unplugged. Once this was plugged back in, the guys from the workshop forgot something else which led to nine warning lights going on. This was also fixed with plugging something crucial back in.

So after riding, sight-seeing and working on the bike, we arrived back “home” at Sonja’s place and were treated to delicious pizza, a shower and a cozy,comfy bed.