Category Archives: Motorcycle

Day 82 – Back to Dili for…RUGBY

We got up and had more bananas for breakfast. Packing was tough because Flo was so sun burnt and also many school kids passed us and they all wanted to talk.

A beach just out of Com.

A beach just out of Com.

We were quite glad to be back on the road. The scenery was still incredibly pretty, driving along the water front. In the beginning, we took our time taking some pictures of the livestock around us. Every animal seems to be a smaller version here. The pigs are quite small and the brown cows are comparatively tiny. They look more like deer than cows in some cases.

At 10.30am, we stopped at a roadside food vendor. Most of these tiny stalls sell rice soaked in coconut milk wrapped in banana leaves with a grilled fish of the day. Flo felt it was still too early for grilled fish, thus we had the rice on its own. It is quite tasty. While having our food, the lady’s kids had a look (and a touch) of our bike again while a little pig cleaned the ground underneath our table in case we’d dropped anything.

Spring fed pool, looks a bit out of place.

Spring fed pool, looks a bit out of place.

Around lunch time, we were back in Baucau. This time, we didn’t have the money to go to a restaurant so we had another banana break and a look around. The pool, which was empty when we had passed it on Thursday, was filled now and in good use. With our sun burn, we weren’t tempted in the slightest to join them…

The trip from Baucau to Dili is estimated to take another 3 hours. At another roadside eatery, Flo got his grilled fish in the end. 🙂

In one of the nooks of a hillside, there is a blessed spring. Not due to the blessedness but due to the water, the surroundings are very green and sheltered so a village with shops to both sides of the road has sprung up. This is a feat in and of itself as the road was built right on the edge so that half the houses have to be on stilts to reach the same level as the road. This village is quite busy during the day as overland city to city buses, mikrolets and tourists stop for a refreshment. I managed to buy chocolate cookies for 50c which compensated for Flo’s grilled fish.

Green only where there are springs. The road is below.

Green only where there are springs. The road is below.

The last bit of the road back to Dili was in excellent condition as it was just finished. It kept confusing our GPS which told us to turn around and go back to the road a couple of times because it didn’t know that this road existed.

Back in Dili we had a nap (longish) to prepare ourselves (or rather me) for the rugby game at midnight. The kiwi volunteers have a place in town where they go to watch the rugby world cup and we planned to go as well. After a late and yummy dinner at 9pm, I had another hour of sleep before Herman picked us up again, half an hour before the kick off.

The spirits were high as there were many more All Blacks supporters than Springbok ones. The game itself was way too close for my taste and I nearly suffered a heart attack a couple of times. BUT the All Blacks made it into the final now.

Day 80 – Back on the roa-wooha-d

The road was still good and lorries just honk politely to let you know that they are passing

The road was still good and lorries just honk politely to let you know that they are passing

This is it, I think this is what we came for. Everything is packed, devices charged, breakfast had, and we are back on the road. Still feels right, though as always it took me a moment to fully come to grips with how heavy this behemoth that is us in travel model really is.

Dili was crossed without incident and we left familiar roads on the eastern beach to climb up and across the hill to come down on the other side and the beach road. The potholes don’t hide for long, but on this section they are mere backbreakers anyway (compared to the “rip your panniers off”-craters in the road after Baucau). Better still, traffic is calm and everyone from motorcycle to lorry driver is relaxed and respectful.

We were taking it very slow: to get a feel for the road, to acclimatise and to look out for whatever wonder may lay on the road side. Thus, we made it to Baucau by 12:30, in time for lunch. We went to a Portuguese restaurant recommended by Joris. The food was good if not maybe a bit uptown for us.

When we came back from lunch Rocinante had company. They were all sitting politely next to the bike but the seat was covered in tiny barefoot footprints that are not Flo's...

When we came back from lunch Rocinante had company. They were all sitting politely next to the bike but the seat was covered in tiny barefoot footprints that are not Flo’s…

The restaurant was down from the road a bit on a terrace overlooking the school below. As we came back, a little group of boys was hard at work inspecting our bike. One of them was frantically trying to remove dusty footprints from the seat with a comically small tissue 🙂

This should become a theme though. The bike with the two of us on it is about as inconspicuous as an ice cream truck playing heavy metal. Shouts of “malae” and “mister, mister” plus a hundred things unrecognised follow our every footstep. Wherever we stop, the bike is like a magnet sucking in everyone within 10m. It turns out the world map is a great conversation starter.

View from "our" mansion onto the mountains

View from “our” mansion onto the mountains

The road further east was substantially worse, but still manageable. Sometimes whole sections were missing or had potholes the size of cars. So 60km/h is the absolute maximum, because at any moment there could be a 10 cm drop in the tarmac. My brand new rear tyre has so much thread left that it touched the crossbar of the luggage rack a couple of time in particularly deep drops.

We pushed on through many villages and ended up at the “end of the road” in Tutuala, 8km from our final destination in the east, Jaco Island. I would not dare to try the road from the plateau to the beach fully loaded and tired after hearing many horror stories about it. Thus, we ended up in the colonial mansion turned hotel on top of the village. It is a little above our price range, but it is the only option up here it seems. At least we have power, reception and a shower. Oh, and marvellous views over the town and the east to west seaside cliffs.

 

 

Day 79 – Liberation day!

Finally, after 25 days of waiting, cursing and hoping, Rocinante is free. As of 10:30 today, she is officially back on the (East Timorese) road! Too long. Never again container shipping!

Am i in the way?

Am i in the way?

It took us a bit to decide what we were to do now. Go now? Take our time and leave tomorrow morning? In the end, we decided for the more relaxed version. After nearly 3 weeks without the bike and our gear all over the place, packing took a bit of time.

Around 2ish, we were mostly done. We needed to stock up on a couple of things and, of course, get more fuel than what was left in the tank after shipping. Heading out to refill our tyres with air was a little adventure in itself. Flo had seen a tiny shop that had air. Stopping there, we caused a little uproar. People are not used to such big bikes and would stop on the street, just to look at us. The shop owners on the other hand were delighted that we came to them and asked all sorts of questions. The most popular ones seem to be “how big is the engine?” and “where do you come from?”. We left with much waving and headed for the backpackers to say

good bye to the travellers we met there. Hubert and Alex were still cleaning their bikes for the shipping and were easily spotted. Marten and Reed said hi as well while we were parked in the yard.

A last shopping stop at Timor Plaza with more questions later, we were done. Smaller chores still had to be done and Flo hopped back on the bike to organize dinner and get our flash drives back which we had lend to Joris.

In the evening, we watched “No” with Gael García Bernal, which felt oddly right in Timor-Leste.

Day 73 – the good life

We could be happy. We should, shouldn’t we? I mean, we are in a tropical wonderland, the sea, good food, nice people and sunshine all day and all of it on a budget that is less than our rent back home. And we are enjoying it. If only I could convince my gut of the fact. Being separated from the bike for so long, plus the uncertainty of when exactly we will get it back creates this constant presence in the back of my mind. “This is not the trip, this is an interlude” – “Everything will be alright once you have the bike back”. For the most part, this was the first day where I could quiet that little voice enough to just enjoy myself and relax.

After four days in Dili, we had to do some washing. Even that proved to be an adventure as the washing machine was like nothing I have ever used and had to be filled with water from the hose. It worked amazingly well though and is much quicker than washing everything in a sink.

After four days in Dili, we had to do some washing. Even that proved to be an adventure as the washing machine was like nothing I have ever used and had to be filled with water from the hose. It worked amazingly well though and is much quicker than washing everything in a sink.

That is, until it all came rushing back to me. The VSA volunteers are an amazing bunch, but waves of doubt and terror washed over me when two of them started smirking at my expected timeline for getting the bike. The words “it might take weeks” were used and my heart skipped a beat. But no. They know a lot and were full of great advice for Dili, but when it comes to shipping bikes, I know my stuff, I have done my research. Only 3 more steps. The ship arrived in Darwin today, so the container (I know the number) needs to go onto the ANL Darwin trader; the ship needs to come to Dili, docking and unloading is scheduled for Monday, but might be delayed by up to 3 days due to traffic. Final step: The container goes to the bond yard, we pay and pick up our bike. Once it is in the bond yard, I can pester the shipping agent until they let me to my bike, so the only other delay may be getting the container from the wharf to the bond yard. A week in total, maybe, but not “weeks”.

So goes my mantra, and with that, I have managed to relax a bit. We spend the day reading, blogging and researching our next steps. The plan is for now to catch the cheap ferry to Atauro Island on Saturday and come back on Monday to sort out the bike.

Opposite to the entrance of our sunset bar. There are many stray dogs around and we've already seen a couple with puppies.

Opposite to the entrance of our sunset bar. There are many stray dogs around and we’ve already seen a couple with puppies.

We had lunch in a western style vegetarian café near Timor Plaza that Nina got recommended. The pieces and the décor made it clear that this is predominantly a place for malae (foreigners) – a fact highlighted by the two ridiculously out of place American ladies whose conversation on marketing skills would have been more suited to a posh LA café than a place surrounded by stray dogs and accessed via wooden planks over an open drain / stream. The food was good, but about 5x more expensive than our lunch yesterday. I guess, since this is the first place we ate at that handed out receipts, the western businessmen don’t care much about the price.

Half way through our almost customary afternoon nap, Herman came back. His afternoon meeting has fallen apart a bit, so he got spare time to pick us up and drive us around for some more sightseeing. This time, we went east, to the statue of Pope John Paul II, a little bit behind the airport. It tells you something about the level of catholic-ness when the capital city’s coastline is framed by two symbols of faith looking towards it.

Sun is starting to set.

Sun is starting to set.

To round off the day and get the sunset we missed last time, we went to a very posh bar on the eastern beach. Slouched on bean bags with a coke in hand, I was able to push the demon of bikelessness to the back for a while and enjoy the sunset.

Also not without mention should be our dinner, which Nina enjoyed immensely. We went back to the place from last night to check out their sit-down restaurant part serving Indian. The paneer was great. I love how international the food is in Dili, and how easy it is for Nina to find tasty vegetarian food.

So all was well … until the demon returns …

Day 65 – Stats 102, Australia edition

Country data #2: Australia

Full screen version of the map

  • 7012 km traveled (6789 km of GPS tracked)
  • 26 travel days, 48 days total
  • $21.53 Average cost per night (6x AirBnB / room, 21x camping, 21x invitation)
  • 375.84l of standard fuel for $ $676.03 (5.36 l / 100km)
  • ~$45.72 for food every day, eating out 1/3 meals
  • ~$7.500 in total, excluding shipping, flights and stolen paniers

All $ values are converted to NZD.

Day 59 – Bye bye Rocinante

Workshop impressions, all packed and ready to go.

Workshop impressions, all packed and ready to go.

All the maintenance on the bike had been done so packing was the only thing that was left to do. We bought a lot of expensive gear in Australia for which we are trying to get a GST refund. However, this means that we will need to show the gear at the airport and cannot ship it with the bike. In the end, three bags were strapped to the bike while the panniers and our clothes stayed with us.

Flo set out to get the carnet stamped and drop the bike off at the shipping agency. It didn’t take long until Tig and I could pick him up. On the way back, we stopped at a motorcycle shop and I got to buy new summer gloves. Using the leather gloves for winter only makes a very limited amount of sense in this weather so I am really happy with the purchase.

It's been a while since we have seen "so many" people gather ... ahh, NZ

It’s been a while since we have seen “so many” people gather … ahh, NZ

It was Flo’s first afternoon off since we arrived in Darwin. We, quite lazily, had a look at the public transport system for the first time as we wanted to go to the Mindil Beach Sunset Market in the evening. In the end, we hitched a ride with Liz and Borha instead, though.

The market is as cool as advertised, with us just arriving in time for the picture perfect red sun plunging into the sea beyond the namesake Mindil Beach. And what do you know, just after sunset we ran into Frederike and Lars again, who we’d almost expected to be on their way home already.

So we decided to browse the market together. Everyone found something they’d enjoy sooner or later. Nina got the recommended Borneo fusion veggie combo and a chocolate mud cake muffin, I got my croco sandwich and Frederike got an necklace souvenir that she was very happy with.

Like Christmas market at home

Like Christmas market at home

After two hours or so, we headed ‘downtown’ to get a beer for the guys. Having a beer together in Darwin had been discussed previously and now was the perfect time to make it happen.

I, unfortunately, was very tired but had fun anyway. Coke got be back on my feet for a while though. It was a fun evening with a bit of interruption of the adjacent 18th birthday party. 🙂 Flo and I then took a taxi home as the buses stopped running before 11pm at night. Frederike and Lars had one more day in Darwin left before flying home. Maybe, just maybe, we might see them again on the road somewhere. Maybe even in NZ.

This post is a combined effort of Flo and me. I apologize for the confusing jumps in the use of ‘I’. You are all smart people and will figure it out. 🙂

Day 57 – Motorbike Maintenance

It was quite a relaxing day for me as Flo had to do maintenance on the bike for basically the whole day. This is something I just have no clue about.

Flo struggling with the oil filter

Flo struggling with the oil filter

After the first 10.000km on this trip and 44.000km on the bike in total, it was time for an inspection and the exchange of some parts that wear. Flo might write the more technical post but he doesn’t have the time so here is what I saw:

The bike had to be taken apart quite thoroughly. The air filters were changed, the radiators were checked and cleaned as far as possible. The spark plugs (don’t ask me what that is) need to be changed, the oil was drained and changed. In the afternoon, the rear tire came off and new brake pads were put in. Lots of things were cleaned and the crash bars were even sprayed again in rust-preventing matt black.

Flo was very happy that he could use Tig’s garage and

Preparing the antipasti platter

Preparing the antipasti platter

tools as it made things much easier. It still took forever though and it is not quite finished yet.

To say thank you for giving us a bed and a garage, we also decided to cook for the flat tonight. Flo made gazpacho which was lovely in the hot climate of Darwin.

 

 

 

Day 55 – It’s over 9000!

Exactly 10.000km!

Exactly 10.000km!

… 10.000 km actually. Still in Kakadu, 5 km before the Mamukala bird watching area, we have completed the first 10.000.000 meter of this trip, in the 2nd country along our way. Not bad, eh?

Over all, this was a pretty sweet day for us. We got up at quarter past six and had everything ready even before the bakery opened at 8am to get breakfast. As a bonus, I got a smile out of the lady at the petrol station for mentioning our next destination: She was from East Timor and was genuinely excited that we decided to go and visit her home country.

Posing with the bike

Posing with the bike

First destination for the day was Ubirr and surroundings. A nice curvy road led us to the border between Kakadu national park and Arnhem Land. Border is meant quite literally, since travel past the border store into Arnhem Land is restricted and requires a permit from the traditional owners. Geographically, the border is marked by the Arnhem Land limestone escarpment and the East Alligator River.

The road follows the escarpment for a bit, offering a great change of scenery from the monotonous savannah so far. It turns out, exploring the Kakadu National Park via the Kakadu and Arnhem Highways is a sure way to be bored out of your scull. There are great things to see a couple of km off on side tracks, but so far most of it was locked away from us behind corrugated sandy 4wd tracks.

This changed today: We started with a short walk from the Border Store along the river, croc spotting and through the nice cool Manngarree Monsoon Forest. Saltwater Crocodiles were shy, but we saw hundreds of cute flying foxes hanging from the trees. The walk was made even more pleasant by Frederike and Lars, who joined us once more.

Flo looking at the super green flood plain

Flo looking at the super green flood plain

Next stop was Ubirr itself, which we hit in time for the 11 am guided rock art tour. The style of the ranger turned out to be not quite our cup of tea, but we ducked ahead and got the highlight of the park (for us) almost to ourselves as a reward. Climbing some 250m up the Nardab Lookout on top of a limestone cliff, we got a mind boggling 360° view of everything that makes the Kakadu: Savannah, bush fires, river lands and billabongs, rocky cliffs, monsoon forest and the perfectly flat and pool table green expanse of a flood plain right at our feet. Jackpot!

Despite the lunch pack being ready on the bike, we could not resist the authentic Thai cuisine offered at the Border Store. Lunch packs can be dinner, right?

Goose posing

Goose posing

We cut the next bit of croc-watching short to head off to our final destination in Kakadu: The above mentioned Mamukala wetlands. This wetland is cut off from the South Alligator River during the dry season and holds a good bit of water that can only escape via evaporation. Now, during Gurrung (mid-August to September) thousands of birds, mainly geese, flock to this wetland to fatten up. It was in deed quite spectacular, the noise, the diving geese and seemingly endless supply of waterlilies.

So that is it than. On our way to Darwin, we gave in to the weakness once more and cut the gravel trip to the Shady Camp short by staying in the pool-providing Stuart Wilderness Lodge. It is going to be the last night of camping for a good wile. Beyond Darwin, where lovely Celia and Tig have offered us shelter, we also got a place to sort ourselves out in Dili, thanks to my former colleague Joseph.

Day 53 – Tornadoes and cathedrals

Yes, they are that big now

Yes, they are that big now

Ok, hands down, I think we are at peak termite mound now. I have mentioned before that the mounds have been constantly rising in height coming north. They are now up to 3m high fortresses. I am not sure if these actually are the famed cathedral termites building those, but the title sure would fit.

The day started earlier smooth as can be for us. We got everything packed by 9am and were ready to go explore the swimming holes of the area. Although early, by the time we reached the upper pool and waterfall, it was sure warm enough for the first swim. Splashing around in the first pool, we meet Frederike and Lars again and got talking some more. We were good around the same time and hiked the 1 km back down together. The lower pool was crowded enough to evoke images of public swimming pools during the summer break back home, so all of us skipped the second swim and headed straight for the car park.

We parted with them exchanging the remaining route, which is pretty similar for both of us. Maybe we would meet again?

Ok, was that 35°C or 36°C in the shade again?

Ok, was that 35°C or 36°C in the shade again?

Off into Kakadu National Park we went, after a brief but nice lunch stop in Pine Creek. The savannah around us is very different and now at the end of the dry scorched brown like parchment, if not blackened and scarred by bushfires. The thermometer rose to 36°C in the shade and there was very little wind going.

Except for Nina’s pants, which are waiting for us in Darwin, we are in full summer gear now. One base layer and summer suit. The Compañero is holding up well, I’d say, at least as good as can be expected. The last escalation layer left is soaking our base layers in water before starting.

The Kakadu Highway is the first nice curvy road since we left the Flinders, but other than that there are not many roadside attractions. Brown grass, some trees, termites and … oh, and the occasional mini tornado. No kidding here: maybe every half an hour we see a wind hose / mini tornado blowing up leaves and dust in a nice little whirlwind.

The campgrounds are either out of reach behind heavily corrugated roads or hellish dustbowls. When we saw Frederike and Lars just coming out of campground #3, we gave in to the lure of a pool and facilities and joined them on their way to Cooinda Resort and Campground. The $36 we had to fork off to the toll troll bought us a nice cool afternoon in one of the two pools with even nicer company.

The killer at the end: We even got invited to dinner – thanks heaps to our benevolent Kiel’ensians.