Category Archives: Thailand

Day 178 – No power left

It all started so well, with us having a chilled breakfast at our cheap and clean hotel. With free coffee and tea, and with me even having remembered to buy fresh milk last night. All was well. A brief loop round the inner city, maybe lunch and then a light 200km to get to a hotel near the Thai-Cambodian border. Easy, right?

Brain freezzzzee incomming!

Brain freezzzzee incomming!

Not quite as it would turn out. The city was nice, but nothing to linger too much. We thought of maybe hanging around for a coffee or so at the riverfront. However, we did not find the place recommended by the Lonely Planet. Instead, we settled into a pretty restaurant / juice bar, as the only patrons for now. Their shtick is a strawberry slushy – so I naturally went with that while Nina opted for the orange version.

Well cooled down and with high spirits, we saddled up once more to get on the road … and failed! Rocinante would not start, the battery was drained. Oh, well. We did a bunch of short rides since yesterday and I was not sure if I had pulled the plug for the GPS. So not a big reason to worry. Continue reading

Day 177 – Bangkok, the never-ending city

Yeah, that's how it looks like

Yeah, that’s how it looks like

Today didn’t start so well. It might all sound very petty in the beginning but it started to add up over the course of the day. Our lovely hotel at the airport had a small cafe/restaurant attached to it. Flo had seen the menu last night, said it looked nice and wanted, at last, to have a nice breakfast there. However, it turned out to be not that nice. You could only order American breakfast which we did. We ordered it without the sausages and bacon which didn’t happen. When she brought us the tray and realized the mistake, we were handed the plates after she’d removed the meat. Thus, for the price of 120 baht PER PERSON, we now had two half-cooked fried eggs, one slice of toast with jam, an orange juice and bad tea and coffee.

This was the first time today, we regretted spending money on something.

New screw is used and just needs to be shortened

New screw is used and just needs to be shortened

As you might recall from yesterday’s post, we had fixed two problems and had created two problems. First, one of these things on the front wheel was now broken. Given that we are planning to ride into Cambodia, we rather wanted it to be fixed here. Waranyu, who was so super helpful yesterday, had sent us GPS coordinates of a workshop where we could get it fixed.

The mechanics were very helpful and within 1 1/2 hours they had gotten out the part that was broken off and replaced it with a screw. The screw was too long so they sheered off the part that was too long as well. Flo could definitely do a better job of describing it but you have the pictures to understand what I’m trying to say. 😉

So the first of our new problems was taken care of. The second problem were Flo’s gloves. Since we had left his broken ones at Touratech yesterday, he was riding without gloves. Well, he used his workshop gloves but they were no good. No real protection and the synthetic made his hands sweat a lot. So we stopped at the roadside and bought a pair of super-basic bike gloves for $10. While we were on the way to the motorbike shop to look for real touring gloves. *facepalm* In this synchronized moment of stupid, we needlessly spent more money than we needed to. Another regret.

PANDARIDER!

PANDARIDER!

Of course, pandarider had gloves. A lot of the selection was leather which is too hot for this weather but Flo found a pair of light summer gloves that he thought were okay. Note, he didn’t like them much but they were okay. Also, he had to buy them in XXL because he is a freakishly tall European with giant hands. *lol*

With all of our problems fixed, we now “only” had to leave Bangkok and ride to Chanthaburi, our last stop before Cambodia. But Bangkok didn’t want to let us go. Traffic was horrendous again and we were still in the city for a long while. Already not feeling too perky due to much money spent on things unnecessarily, we stopped at a huge mall to stock up on sunscreen and on cash. While I bought the sunscreen we’ve been looking for for a while, Flo had a disaster at the ATM. See, we have to pay fees every time we withdraw cash. Thus, we generally withdraw the largest amount possible so we only have to withdraw once or twice in each country. In this transaction now, Flo accidentally pressed “use local conversion rate” instead of “charge credit card with foreign currency”. This sounds like a pretentious thing to do but it actually makes a very big difference. Our credit card uses a good exchange rate while the local one is usually worse. And of course, using the local rate resulted in us loosing $100 worth of NZ money. Which means the money was charged to our credit card but we got not enough Thai baht out of the ATM for it. Bad rate. Now feeling utterly defeated for today, we had a cry and then lunch at McDonald’s.

Waiting for our fate next to the toll gates...

Waiting for our fate next to the toll gates…

Still, the city was not ready to let us leave. Navigating the traffic and the many, many streets, we ended up on the motorway. The “no motorbikes allowed” sigh was half-way up the ramp so we saw it too late and then there was no way to turn back anymore. So we reached the toll gate and were waved to the side, made to stop and a lot of “culprit” pictures were taken of us. Communication was impossible as no one seemed to speak English. So the man in the uniform with the strict face made us get off the bike and wait for our doom. I was certain we were going to be fined for using the motorway as motorcycles are not allowed on it and nearly cried again. Flo was very worked up but had to restrain himself as you don’t want to insult any officials. So we sat around. The man then told us in very broken English that we needed to get off the motorway. Sure, we knew that. So we had to wait for a car to arrive which could accompany us to the exit. It would take about 15 min.

After 30min, the car arrived. More pictures of us were taken. But they also let us know that we were free to leave with this car, without paying a fine. What a relief! So we rode behind the car…for a whole 50 meters as this is where the next exit was. Really? You made us wait so we wouldn’t ride 50 meters without company? Anyhow, super relieved, we finally, finally left Bangkok behind.

Lovely hostel, away from Bangkok ;)

Lovely hostel, away from Bangkok 😉

Things started to improve. First of all, the traffic was waaaaay lighter so we made good speed. Second, Flo actually enjoyed riding the bike while listening to an audio book. Third, we had a lovely coffee stop with iced coffee and iced chocolate to lighten our mood. Fourth, though with all the delays we had to ride till sunset, we found a lovely, cheap place to stay. It was in an old hospital, now refurbished as a hostel, opened only in 2014 and cost all of NZ$18 for the night. AND there was a food market nearby so Flo volunteered to buy dinner there which resulted in an amazing mix. Salad as a starter, dumplings as a main and nuts-honey-coconut mix for dessert.

 

 

 

Day 176 – Getting tyre’d

We are close to Bangkok and the goals for the day are simple. First, get a set of new tyres. Second, finally replace the partly dissolved Touratech Compañero gloves. They were basically gone since Timor-Leste.

The tire is screwed. That puts the nail in the coffin ... sorry :)

The tire is screwed. That puts the nail in the coffin … sorry 🙂

I forgot to call ahead on both accounts, but have been in email contact a week or so back. What could go wrong? So we made our way to Asiana Moto, the licenced Heidenau importer for Thailand to get issue number one sorted.

Having all day to do stuff really helps to ease the stress of urban traffic quite a bit. After a comically bad breakfast at a little coffee shop attached to a petrol station, we started the 50km journey from the west of Bangkok to the shop located in the north-east. Traffic was heavy and slow going, but mostly cars, and those quite orderly. Even though we are about 110 cm wide with the luggage, we probably cut an hour or so out of our trip by lane splitting when possible. All in all, it took us about two hours to get there.

When we were within 1 km of the shop, I though I felt the bike behave oddly, and when we pulled up I was certain there was an issue with the rear tyre. I was right, a decent sized screw has embedded itself in the tyre, but unfortunately something else became evident: The shop seemed to be closed today. Oh … that may be an issue.

Turns out, the zega pro has its uses as a stilt for propping up the bike.

Turns out, the zega pro has its uses as a stilt for propping up the bike.

Luckily, I managed to get hold of Waranyu who is managing the store while the owners are out and about. Unfortunately, he was in Pattaya, 3 hours south of where we were. Nonetheless he promised to check the inventory to see if he could help us at all. Things got a bit hectic right then, while I took the wheel off (something needed to be done anyway, new tyre or not) a group of Thai arrived to help us maybe get the tyre fixed and Waranyu called back with news of an available rear in the shop.

I got hauled into a taxi, but the auto tyre shop could not help us with the tubed wheel and sent us off again. I did learn though that the tyre itself also had a tear lengthwise and should not be used even with a fixed tube. Meanwhile, Nina had talked to Waranyu and he agreed to get in the car and meet us at the store in 3 hours. What a hero!

yea, no way ... could not even break the bead.

yea, no way … could not even break the bead.

So we settled in. Nina got her book out and I got to work on the wheel, just for practice and to find out if I actually could fix a puncture myself if I needed to. The sobering result of that experiment was that no, with my tools I see no chance I would be able to break the bead on the rear. Not even after a quick lunch.

A bunch more Thai showed up, including a paramedic, eager to help. I was not able to break their enthusiasm and explain that I was just mucking around while waiting for Waranyu to open up the shop. Everyone was eager to try. Bigger tyre leavers were produced, but one by one, they failed (which soothed my hurt pride a bit). The tyre was still happily sitting on the rim unchanged when Waranyu showed up and was able to explain what was going on.

With the proper machinery, a new rear tyre and tube were fixed in no time and my biggest worry was taken care of. Which left the question of how to deal with the front. It was better off, but I doubt it would have another 5000 km in it for the round trip until we returned to Bangkok. There were no 100/90 19″ K60 available, neither the more road-y K76. I knew from NZ that I could squeeze a 110/80 19″ in if need be, but that it would be tight. The K76 fit, but the K60 was about 2 mm to wide when not on the rim.

proper tools handled by someone who knows what he is doing ...

proper tools handled by someone who knows what he is doing …

Waranyu when upstairs and rummaged around for a while until he emerged with an only half worn K60 from the discard pile. That one fit and we gave it a shot. A little drum roll, but it fitted even when on the rim. The best thing: I got this one for free! Thank you heaps Asiana Moto and Waranyu – that was a life saver.

Unfortunately, I spoiled the victorious mood a bit when I sheered off one of the four bolts securing the mounting plate of the front axle while putting everything back together. My story is that it was nicked before by a rock and I will stick with that … regardless, Waranyu was super helpful once more and gave us the address of a workshop we could go to tomorrow to get it sorted. The issue is not too bad, but nothing you want to go into both Laos and Cambodia if you have the chance to fix it before.

With big smiles and a photo session we took off for the Touratech Thailand premises another 35 km to the southeast, near the international airport. We made it there in time before they closed down and were welcome by Somjin. Sadly, the gloves I was using have been discontinued and the new summer gloves are not yet available in Thailand. Nonetheless, I left my, now utterly ruined, pair here to be send back to Germany for a post mortem.

Whohoo ... so far we have interacted with every TT distributor along the way ;)

Whohoo … so far we have interacted with every TT distributor along the way 😉

At least we got a replacement for the broken carrying handle strapping down our tent (yes, we are still carrying a tent …). We concluded our visit with a customary photo-in-front-of-sign session and were off for our resting place for the night.

We made use of being so close to the airport and for a cheap but cool place usually for people awaiting their flight. On our way there we passed a night market and stocked up for dinner. Markets like these are a pretty cool thing in Thailand. People sell single dinners in plastic bags, ready for assembly at home. This seems to be a popular thing among Thai. We each got something for us and then a sweet thing for dessert. All for less than $4 in total. Whohoo!

A final goody that night was that when the hotel staff saw all our gear they upgraded us to a superior room, so that we only had to lug it up two flight of stairs instead of six. Ah, what a day.

Day 175 – Cool runnings

Awesome limestone cliffs up ahead

Awesome limestone cliffs up ahead

There had been a storm that night, the remnants of which could be felt even this morning. With the temperatures dropped by about 15 degrees, an overcast sky and a gusty wind, we felt homesick for Wellington for the first time in a while.

But it was no good; it was time to leave again. Actually, the cool weather was great for riding. So we hung around just long enough for one more breakfast of Thomas’ home-made bread and got our “horse” saddled. It felt good to be rolling again.

In 18 degrees, this just looked so much like NZ

In 18 degrees, this just looked so much like NZ

The first couple of roadside attractions along the way could not tickle our fancy this day. We therefore stayed on the main road north until we came upon the Khao Sam Roi Yot National park. We turned off the main road towards the coast for a little 60 km detour through this park and the region around. This time, we were quite chuffed about our decision to do so. Jutting limestone cliff all strewn around a flat freshwater wetland. The view was great, much better than sticking to the dual carriage way of the main road all day.

It was here that we finally had some sense and got out our wind and water proof outer jackets we have been carrying tucked away since that one time in Sumatra. A wise decision indeed. This, in combination with the audio book (Book 2 of the Barthemaeus trilogy), got us into an almost zen-like riding mode.

Time for a HOT chocolate, me thinks :)

Time for a HOT chocolate, me thinks 🙂

This might also be the reason that once we reached our rough endpoint for the day at Amphawa (famous for it’s floating markets, which were not on today) we decided to … ride some more. The selection of hotels seemed much better at the western outskirts of Bangkok. Just another hour later, it turned out to be true. We even only got to experience a very small bit of famed Bangkok grid on our way there.

Nina’s comment: We were really happy with riding the bike today but as soon as we got back into towns or cities, accidents seemed to happen. We stopped at a roadside motorcycle shop to buy some chain oil when a scooter with two young ladies on it turned a corner, didn’t watch out for traffic or just simply didn’t care and pushed another scooter of the road. The man reacted quickly and was incredibly lucky that he made it up on the footpath which had a very high step here but there he fell. Parts flew off his scooter and I was seriously worried about him until he jumped up and angrily cursed after the ladies who just drove off. The second accident was nothing we witnessed but something that we stumbled upon. We turned a corner and there was a scooter on the ground. It was picked up in this moment by a helper and then we noticed the woman sitting on the pavement. My first thought “Wow, she’s lucky, not even road rash” when we simultaneously realized that her shin looked odd and her foot was an a strange angle…definitely broken. She was taken care off so we passed but I had my fingers crossed for Bangkok because accidents don’t seem like fun at all.

The only fail, really, of this day was our feeble attempt at getting a cheap, vegetarian dinner. After 30 minutes of looking and not finding, we resigned to Nutella toast and snacks for dinner instead.

Overall, we were satisfied though. Cheap, clean hotel and only 50 km to go to the tire shop. What could go wrong?

Day 174 – Ban Krut temple visit

We had obviously needed a day to simply crash so we extended our stay in Thap Sakae for another night to see at least a bit of the surrounding attractions. After a yummy breakfast (Flo had bought me Nutella and Thomas bakes his own bread!), we slowly got into our motorcycle gear. Despite it being 10.30am, you could feel that it would be a scorcher of a day.

Iconic, isn't it?

Iconic, isn’t it?

The Ban Krut temple is only about 25km away but the ride was long enough to get quite hot. The first thing to notice on the temple hill is a giant buddha statue. It looks out over the land in the calm fashion of all buddhas. Around it, there are smaller statues to which you can apply leaf gold and thus do your bit for the temple (and for improving you standing regarding this life and the next). This practise results in a very patchy look of the statues though.

Walking up the hill, we first passed two big warriors or guardians, one of each side of the road. A big, well frequented staircase, then, leads up to the top of the hill with the temple on it.

Dragon stairway

Dragon stairway

As always, removing your shoes is expected but apart from this fact, Flo and I are lacking the knowledge of rules for proper behaviour in a Thai temple. For example, I wasn’t sure if it’s okay to take photos at all. Though I asked a staff member, I was sure I wasn’t understood when I got a “yes” answer…so really I wasn’t any wiser afterwards. So I quietly took some picture, not disturbing any people who were there for prayer and not zooming in on the devotional statues too much.

Soon, we were too hot again and went back our “flat” with just a short lunch stop on the road. The pool beckoned so we jumped in to cool down before using the afternoon for some administration and reading up on the next countries. Apparently, landmines are still an issue in Cambodia so no going off the roads at all…

Sweet concoction - but yummy.

Sweet concoction – but yummy.

Dui and Thomas invited us to a home-cooked dinner. Dui makes this vegetable dish out of Thai zucchini with some scrambled eggs with a sauce and it is so y.u.m.m.y! NOM! In capital letters! Then, we actually drove into town again to have the rich tea one last time. Unfortunately, we didn’t take a single picture of Thomas and Dui… 🙁

 

 

Day 173 – Stats 105 Malaysia

We have a spare Malaysia flag sticker ... any takers?

We have a spare Malaysia flag sticker … any takers?

We did … NOTHING! Well, other than lounging all day we only crawled out of our palace to have breakfast and dinner with our lovely hosts Thomas and Dui. Thus, room for another (more timely) stat post!

We have already shared our thoughts about Malaysia at length in previous posts. Therefore, just some brief observations.

What made Malaysia great for us were the amazing people we met along the way. We got free accommodation, workshop space and heaps of food from a bunch of generous peoples. Special thanks once more to Sonja and her family, Sunny, Tony, BK and of course Jonathan.

Unfortunately, we did not really find access to the country beyond that. Maybe we will come back some day, with a fresher mind and also go exploring further east. Just over 1000km feels like barely scratching the surface, now …

Country data #5: Malasia

Full screen version of the map

  • 1222 km traveled (1178 km of GPS tracked)
  • 6 travel days, 18 days total
  • $8.28 Average cost per night (7x room, 9x invitation)
  • 73.69l of standard fuel for $  48.89 (6 l / 100km)
  • ~$25.15 for food every day, always eating out with many invitations
  • ~$1.650 in total

All $ values are converted to NZD.

Day 172 – 20.000 miles over land (well, kilometers really)

Waking up to this cool but eerie view.

Waking up to this cool but eerie view.

Getting up in the Khao Sok National Park, we got a taste of why it is the wettest region in Thailand. It didn’t rain as such but thick clouds were hanging so low that everything was covered in fog and thus also quite damp. Though Silver Cliff had been an awesome accommodation with really good food last night, it was slightly too expensive to stay for breakfast. Instead, we hit the road early looking out for a roadside food stall.

The second one we tried had at least coffee so we decided that it would do. Food-wise, only curries were served: Big pots with fish, chicken, pork and beef curries. But nothing vegetarian. Given that I wasn’t that keen on curry for breakfast anyway, I found some sweet buns in a nearby shop. Flo dug into the pork curry in the meantime and was rewarded with a plate full of cucumber and beans as a side and a bunch of bananas as dessert.

The moment when the fog broke ... wow

The moment when the fog broke … wow

After breakfast, the sky started to clear which made for some great shots of the National Park. The road was fun as well so our spirits were high. Leaving the National Park behind, we had to come up with a plan of where to next. A great dam was advertised as a tourist attraction so we went there to have a look. Leaving the dam, we saw that we missed the iconic “55555” on Rocinante’s display by 4 kilometers and then realized that we have made more than 20.000 kilometers on this trip alone now. Continue reading

Day 171 – Parking nationals

All packed up and ready to go! The pool did look nice and cool in all our gear

All packed up and ready to go! The pool did look nice and cool in all our gear

As comfortable as it was, time has come to say our final farewell to the Krabi Discovery Resort that is totally not in Krabi. Not least because we could not afford more than this one night anyway 🙂

Our next destination was the Khao Sok National Park not far away at all, so we decided to take the scenic route there, bagging two more national parks along the way. We decidedly left Phuket to its own, after our experiences of Bali and Lombok, we were all touristed out for now.

There was only one little flaw in my cunning plan: It turned out that I forgot to check the maps on our GPS and it just so happened that we only had another 50 km or so more left before the big blank green of the no map generic land started up. We were little worried though. With less than 200 km to go, a mobile phone with heaps of data and a paper map, we were more than prepared. Plus, the Garmin does not need an installed map to record the track for later.

Limestone caves turned temple are a thing

Limestone caves turned temple are a thing

We followed the main road through the hills and stopped at one of the many signposted roadside attractions for a brief break. Limestone cave pimped by temple-y bits seems to be a theme of the region.

The roads through the hills were nice, but once again the following coastal areas utterly failed to tickle our fancy. We had a horrible and overpriced lunch in one of the touristy roadside places and moved on quickly to forget about it.

The next national park had little to hold us for long, either. The road was nice and curvy, but the beaches were mostly blocked off by the high walls of massive beach side resort complexes or “developed” little towns in between.

We got our reward after all though, when we reached the higher ground of the Khao Sok National Park.

And then we came across this view

And then we came across this view

The air got cooler, the road curvy again and the views got up to fantastic at some points. Did I mention that I love limestone formations?

We concluded the day with some needed map updates and a good dinner in our lovely (and cheap) riverside retreat. Tucked away behind a palm tree plantation, it felt a lot like an Indonesian home stay – the good kind.

 

 

Day 170 – Familiar territory

To not repeat our mistake in regards to the tropical heat, we set the alarm clock for sunrise this morning. Luckily still being somewhat close to the equator, sunrise is at 6.30am which isn’t even too bad. So we got up, packed our tent away and drove off in search of breakfast.

no words, just gawk

no words, just gawk

The Hat Chao Mai National Park is really pretty, even along the road. We stopped to take some pictures on a bridge because the water looked amazing in the early morning light. About 100 meters behind the bridge, we found a row of food stalls, many of which were already open. So we sat down at a table in the sand, ordered fried rice, decadently rich Chai tea and enjoyed our view. The limestone cliffs offshore make for such an interesting coast line.

Again, we were having problems with Rocinante’s electronics. This lead to us to doing little hops between shops,hoping to find a hard ware store somewhere. Flo needed contact cleaner spray as he detected that the battery was having troubles as well. Along the road, we found a mall which had EVERYTHING so we even got to replace the missing electrical tape from way back when.

Bonebreaker on the scooter, but no match for battle hardened Rocinante.

Bonebreaker on the scooter, but no match for battle hardened Rocinante.

From here on out, we came to familiar territory soon. Having spent a special holiday around Ao Nang already, the scenery around Krabi looked like home. We waved to the airport as we passed. Since the bike hadn’t been with us on the holiday, we decided to stay another night at the Discovery Resort to give Flo the opportunity to see how Rocinante performs on the roads that nearly killed my spine on a scooter.

Arriving at the resort, no one was there. Or at least no one we knew. A quick phone call later saw Dah and another staff member return. Big smiles and waves when they saw us but still only

I'm getting good at taking the fairings off ...

I’m getting good at taking the fairings off …

a 200 baht discount per night. Buh hoo. This made it rather expensive but we still stayed for the night. Arriving at our destination so early gave Flo time to work on the bike again. AGAIN everything came off, got cleaned and the contact spray was used. Two things might have possibly been the culprit: One washer was missing on the battery side of things which might have resulted in a bad grounding or a connector near the impact site form the fall recently was bad, as it had burn marks from having sparked multiple times. Fixing both seems to have done the trick, Rocinante started reliably again. Fingers crossed! But actually, the starting process sounds better already so we are hopeful.

Otherwise, the day was uneventful; filled with jumping into the swimming in the pool, catching up on the blog, one more dish of fried vegetables with cashew nuts and a movie in the evening. 🙂

 

Day 169 – Run for the sun

Again on the "old" bridge ... it was just shorter

Again on the “old” bridge … it was just shorter

We could not find any more destinations or activities in Malaysia that were able to re-kindle the fire and joy that has been missing for a couple of days. Nina and I talked a lot about how we feel about the trip, what we thought were the reasons and what we might do with it. One decision that came out of this was to call it for Malaysia and head over to Thailand, today. There was still doubt, though. Are we missing out? We also did not want to do Malaysia dis-justice, when we were so hyped up about exploring here after coming over from Sumatra.

My last bid for a set of Heidenau K60 in Malaysia fell short as well, so at 10:30 it was time to hit the road for the last 150 km in Malaysia. Since I could not find them in Thailand either, it might come that we need to settle on a different tire soon. There was an importunity to get the promising looking Metzeler Karoo 3, but unfortunately they do not make a front in Rocinante’s size. Continue reading