Monthly Archives: August 2015

Day 17 – stats 101

Today was a real homework day. So many boxes got ticked from our list, even some that were not on it. We are bleeding money for anything but accommodation (a huge thank you again to our Auckland friends for putting up with us).

I have a new phone, a rear tire is lined up in Melbourne, shipping payed, mails send … and most importantly: All data for NZ collated.

Country data #1: New Zealand

Full screen version of the map

3388 km traveled (3223 km of GPS tracked)
14 travel days, 22 days total
$22.90 Average cost per night (7x camping, 9x invitation)
174.89 l of standard fuel for $361.78 (5.16 l / 100km)
~$37 for food every day, eating out 1/3 meals
~$2.500 in total, excluding shipping and tattoo

Day 16 – 16 in a row

When we started our trip, and this blog back up in earnest, the expectation was that we would write maybe two to three posts a week. Without really pushing for it, we now got a post for every single day of New Zealand, each of them with at least some pictures.

The surface works anywhere, this is me writing this post

On average, it takes about an hour every day to write this blog. The process is already sinking in as part of our routine. One of us writes the body of the post itself, so far between 150 and 550 words each. Then we copy the pictures of the day onto the external hard drive, have a quick browse and pick images matching the post. Once we have a place with internet access we copy, resize and upload. Then, Flo gives every picture a title and description and 2-3 go into the post and the rest goes into a gallery. All in all about 1 hr.

The end result has been read by a growing number of people, over 100 by now. Cool – and also mildly scary.

By now, I think we both agree that we like the setup. We keep everyone informed, there is a record for ourselves and we get some great feedback (mostly on facebook, so feel free to use the comment function some more!). So we have all intentions to keep the 1 post per day up for travel days.

very hip, the surface is right at home

Now, whether that is actually achievable in places with less than North Island level of connectivity remains to be seen, but we will try.

You may have noticed that I said travel days. Right now, we are calming down a bit, so until we leave for Melbourne on the 25th, there may actually be some gaps on slow days, or posts more about more general things like this one.

Now, we did do some things today. We failed several attempts at buying a sleeping bag, survived a bus trip across town without a modern smart phone and had a lovely lunch at Federal & Wolfe.

: This is nit all but I ran out of paper

: We got this from MCL … all wrapped up

Day 15 – Clashing travel modes

The day started with a lovely Nutella toast and tea breakfast before we got into our “getting things done” mode. Ruth and Damien were amazing hosts, driving me around Auckland to pick up our camping gear from Linda and Denis who were kind enough to take it down to Auckland from Cape Reinga.

Flo took the bike, bought a big army bag so we could properly store our gear in the crate and then drove to the airport where Rocinante had a date to be crated. We met up again at the airport (Ruth and Damien were still driving me around) and cleaned all our gear for the biosecurity check in Australia. The tent gave us the most work; especially the footprint had seen some wet and muddy conditions in the last two weeks.

But we finished cleaning, packed the bags for the crate and the bag for staying in Auckland and got driven to Nick’s, Sophie’s and Dan’s place where we can stay for the next little while.

Thank you so much, Ruth and Damien, for everything you did. We hope to repay you some day in Frankfurt for your kindness. 🙂

We are mildly ashamed for going to Burgerfuel over more foodhipster place

Entering Nick’s place, we suddenly became tourists in a city again. The bike was not available as a mode of transport, most of our biking cloths stayed with the crate as well. Instead, we met Mash, a good friend, on his holiday back home in NZ and went to Kelly Tarlton’s which is an underwater and arctic animals place. Given how long the way to the counter was they must usually have quite the crowd coming in but we had almost no one in front of us. There were line of penguin foot marks outside, showing the way, but they were quite far apart as well. Flo managed a jump from one set of prints to the next and was declared part penguin because of it. 🙂

Interesting talk during the feed

We rushed to the stingray enclosure to be there for the feeding and the talk. Stingrays are surprisingly cool and big. Of course, we also looked at the penguins and sharks. A rotating tube was the thing that tickled our fancy the most: It screws so much with your head that you cannot walk straight through it. Everyone wobbled through as if drunk which was hilarious.

Afterwards, Nick took us to Milse which is exactly my kind of place. They have so many awesome sweet things there! We were too early for the dinner menu (which apparently is also just desserts) but I still found so much to try!

To round up the evening, we ordered pizza and watched a movie.

: Inside with cocolate > outside with rain

: a small selection, for a fair price

: There is obvious approval in Nina’s eyes

: PENGUINS!

: Rufus von Bellyflop

: big fellas during feeding time

: They grow up to 2m in diameter and 250kg

Day 14 – Battered and bruised

Yesterday started great and ended great. The middle, though, was unpleasant.

Our great little cabin by the beach was looking out over water when we woke up. We had a quick breakfast and then a great coffee stop at “The Parsley Pot”.

Picking up our world map sticker from “ECM signs and motorbikes“, Leigh had a surprise for us: He gave us a t-shirt each for free! And they are great t-shirts!

We got those tshirts from Leigh when we picked up the world map sicker for our panniers.

Afterwards, we hit the road. Auckland was really close already so we took our time and went down the west coast towards Auckland. Bought lunch and headed off to the black beaches on this side of the coast. This is where our problems started. The gravel road towards the beach was fine but there was a short drive from the carpark to the beach over sand. I hopped off but Flo actually tried the ride. Turns out that it is really deep and fine sand and there was no way that we could actually get Rocinante up there with a completely worn rear tire. So instead, the bike dropped on sand and we had to completely unload it before we had any chance of getting it up again. In the fine sand, we mostly pushed it around rather than getting it up.

Good enough lunch spot though

Quite exhausted, we had lunch at the beach with the bike safely back in the carpark. Happy to get to Auckland and a nice spare room with fellow bikers Ruth and Damien, we hopped back onto the bike. A couple of kilometers down the road, we stopped to look up the exact address…which is when Flo realized that his phone was missing. Retracing our steps for almost 100km didn’t help; the phone remained gone.

So we did the sensible thing and just chose to get to our destination. About 2km away from the bed for the night, we stopped at a red traffic light…and the bike dropped. Having no panniers means that it doesn’t stop at a 45 degree angle anymore but falls down all the way, so we both dropped to the ground. It was really quite the fall or I am just unlucky that I have no hip protectors. Anyhow, it hurt. And we cracked a mirror.

As soon as we arrive at Ruth and Damien’s place, things improved dramatically. Sitting down, having a tea and a coffee, talking and getting to know Gypsy, their dog, was great. Flo got to borrow a water blaster which made cleaning the bike very easy. It went from a dirt bike to a shiny one in no time.

In the meantime, Ruth cooked a very yummy dinner for all of us and we had a nice evening after sorting out the logistics from Tuesday.

: beach access at Seagull Rd. near Helensville

: this was too much deep sand

: Water blaster helps heaps

: Very well behaved dog.

Day 13 – Only the weather is jinxed

The anger and frustration is slowly ebbing away. For the most part, this is due to all the nice people we know and the new ones we encounter along the way. Like Luca and Eugenia, an Italian couple we met twice yesterday for great little encounters.

Or like Ruth and Damien, two more Kiwi bikers, we met on the road and who took no time to offer help and a bed to us as basically strangers. Or Linda and Denis who took our gear with them to Auckland for us. Or all the other people who have offered and are lending help and support. Yes the money hurts, but people like you are what this trip is about for a large part for us.

hmmm, the sea

Other than a lot of talking and processing, planing on scheming via intercom, we mostly cruised along Northland roads, edging slowly south.

First stop today was Baylys Beach, were Rocinante finally dipped her front wheel into salt water. High tide and Flo’s unwillingness to risk damaging the bike so close before shipping kept this stop to a few rounds around Nina for action shots.

We changed coasts again for a little bit more exploration of Whangarei. By coincidence, we ran into the model train ride-out day at the Kiwi North historic village. Wohoo, scaled down steam engines! We kept it brief as well to head into town in time for the mid-day lunch rush at Mokaba, with a view of the marina.

The cabin between the trees is ours

After another loop to the west coast, we ended the day in the east again. Half asleep in wintery hibernation, the hosts at the Sandspit Holiday park gave us an amazing little cabin right at the water’s edge. The day ended on the porch watching the water and the coming tide with some nice cheese, veges and a small Puhoi desert 🙂

The Holiday Park is made up like a little pioneer village with many old objects on display in the windows of the old shops. This is something to roam around and rummage through so many pictures were taken. This is probably the loveliest little Holiday Park we stayed in so far. They even have a cat but it’s running away from Nina, much to her dismay.

: 100% non-posed … guaranteed

: Slightly scary, but the bike was light and the ground firm

: real steam engines!

: We were either looking at massive clouds from the sun or in torrents underneath

: This is the view for tonight

: buoy at low tide

: impressions

: TV room

: impressions 2

: impressions 3

: detail

: Impressions 4

: impressions 5

: detail 3

: detail 4

: The tide coming in

: And the sun gone …

: The model train club day at Whangarei

Day 12 – stolen

There are no photos of the beautiful morning on the Tapotupotu Bay DOC campsite at Cape Reigna. We also had no breakfast. Instead, our morning was spent running around, first worried, then increasingly angry. Why that?

Serve and protect.

The two big Touratech aluminium panniers for Rocinate were gone! Bless Nina, they were mostly empty but for some small stuff we can replace for maybe $50. Did the strong wind take them? Surely not all the way away. At least one would be somewhere, stuck in a bush or washed up on the beach.

As time went on, it became certain. Someone has come by in the middle of the night and taken both of them from right next of our tent. Yes, we could have taken them inside, or lock them back on the bike … but it was starting to rain, and we were tired. And after all, we were at the end of the world, right?

Well, hindsight can be a horrible tormentor. If only we had taken Colin’s warnings about security more seriously … but the show must go on.

Spending an hour trying to get to a phone to get in touch with NZ police was an utter waste of time. They also send us to a police station 100 km out that was closed in the end and the last phone call got me passed to a call center to lodge my case – it all seemed like paint by the numbers to get to a case number for a potential insurance claim and no further. Because of the goose chance, we have also missed our chance to finally ride down Ninety Mile Beach. Sigh.

Back on the bay earlier we also got to see the side of NZ again that we have learned to love and appreciate so much over the last 3 years: People offering help as much as they can, being caring and compassionate. An Auckland couple offered to take our camping gear (which we now can’t carry with us any longer) with them to Auckland for us where we can pick them up in time to ship with the bike.

Will have to cry for rescue by Touratech Australia some more to get a new set in time for Australia.

To have that much breathing space is impressive in NZ bush.

Now, it was a really annoying day, but also a deeply moving one. After lunch the mood started to improve again, we had a cute cup of coffee somewhere on the road and weird weather with sun and hard rain alternating in 10 minute intervals. After a brief ferry ride across Hokianga Harbour, we were approaching the highlight of the day: The Kauri coast and Waipua Kauri Forest.

Tane Mahuta is the name of the oldest remaining Kauri tree, and also for a mythical figure / god in Maori mythology. Tane was the one separating earth from sky to create the air, forest and realm of life and men. In the presence of that giant, I could see how these myths spawned. One way or the other, Tane Mahuta will probably be the oldest living organism I will see in my life. It is estimated to be around 2000 years old.

Did I say anything else important happened today?

Oh yes, more heartwarming hospitality at the Greenhouse Backpacker in Dargaville. See for yourself …

: This was actually the night before …

: The ferry was there waiting for us just in time.

: Just a brief ride to over there.

: Forgot to turn off shortest route navigation, so we had a gravel section.

: Nina is for scale, 10 m away from the tree.

: To have that much breathing space is impressive in NZ bush.

: Flo for scale.

: All of them in one shot.

: Great sunset views from a lookout over Waipoua Kauri Forest.

: The bike parked inside in the Greenhouse Backpacker.

: The broken stump on the left is Rata. Kauri is the only tree I have seen to survive it.

Day 11 – Far North

It was raining when we woke up. Not just a bit of rain but pouring down once more. Luckily, we slept in a room in a backpacker and avoided the storm that night. However, the rain combined with Flo’s successful attempt of using his mobile phone as a hot spot meant that we had a very late start.

Details of the carvings on the bow of the wakas.

And then we only drove a kilometre to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Much of it is a construction site at the moment with big signs announcing a museum to be opened in February 2016. This made me wonder if the original treaty which is in the National Archive in Wellington at the moment will see a return to the town it is named after.

We took some time at the grounds. Instead of a cultural performance, we decided to have a guided tour around the grounds. After having lived in Wellington for three years, we knew most of the facts. I still enjoyed it though.

One and a half hours of walking around were enough for Flo’s leg as well so we just wanted to get some mileage down towards the North.

During a particularly intense downpour, we took a wrong turn and had to retrace our steps which annoyed Flo quite badly. So we only had a short lunch break at the roadside and then were off to Cape Reinga.

Riding towards Cape Reinga really gives you a land’s end feel. It is beautiful and wild. At some point, even the farmland stops and you just drive through wild, hilly land.

We arrived at the Cape when the sun was already low so it looked amazing. I took way too many pictures of its silhouette. In Maori mythology, it is quite the special, spiritual place. It is the place were two oceans meet or actually flow against each other and form swirls.

Luckily, the DOC campsite that we are staying at tonight was just around the corner.

: Details of the Marae build on the treaty grounds.

: Wakas on display at Waitangi Treaty grounds.

: The look from a minute out from Cape Reigna car park.

: The lighthouse as seen from the comfortable new approach path.

: The swirls in the water are actually the Tasman Sea and the Pacific meeting.

: The signpost at cape reigna, with london, Sidney and Bluff on.

: We made it, Bluff to Cape Reigna!

: The setting sun provides beautiful lighting.

: This cliff is of importance in Maori mythology. And has a kick ass pōhutukawa tree.

: Nina’s profile at Cape Reigna.

: The last look back.

Day 10 – Ta Moko

This was basically a rest day with one goal for the day: Visit Paitangi Ostick of Paitangi Art & Ink.

Some of you probably know that I have been thinking about getting tattooed for a long while. I was thinking of going to the same Auckland artist that got Nina hers from, but it never came together.

Just before we were leaving on our trip now, we saw a documentary on the waka huia youtube channel about this impressive artist up in Northland. So we took the chance and send her an email yesterday to see if it would work out this time.

I got lucky and it so worked out that we could spend a day with her, her lovely partner and the two resident Schäferhunde that also fit perfectly into our schedule.

The final result – copyright notice: this is not CC like the rest, as it is Paitangi’s work and not mine to give.

Paitangi was exactly the artist I could have hoped for for my first ta moko. And she is an amazing person to boot. I felt safe and had no doubt that the outcome would be what I have been looking for. The trip would have been worth it just spending a morning with two lovely people, though. We even got someone slightly re-infected with the motorcycle travel bug.

And that is how I ended up in a backpacker in Paihia with a lower leg mildly leaking black ink and drops of blood … and if you want to hear the story behind it, you can invite me to a beer when we next meet.

copyright notice: this is not CC like the rest, as it is Paitangi’s work and not mine to give.

: Winter time, i tell you …

: Impressive how Pai worked towards a final design. All free hand original work, of cause.

: The view from Pai’s atelier – sea view helps

: last chance before the needle comes

: Such a nice atmosphere, makes the pain all ok

: The inhabitant with the biggest attitude in the house

: thick lines at the end – keep the best for last!

Day 9 – Feels like holidays

Our night found an abrupt end as the alarm clock went off on Flo’s mobile phone. For once, it was switched on overnight and thus reliably woke us at 6.30am.

Lucky chance that the alarm woke us up

Instead of going right back to sleep, I had a look outside. The sun was just about to rise so we scrambled out, right onto the beach and watched the sunset for the first time on this trip.

After an extended breakfast with sunshine and wifi, we only had a short ride into the Puhoi Valley. Another couple on the campground had recommended the cheese factory there. And yes, it was worth the stop. They even make their own ice cream and won several prizes for it. It was absolutely d.e.l.i.c.i.o.u.s. I could have rolled around in the chocolate ice cream. 🙂

The effect of the award winning Puhoi ice cream on the commen Homus Ninasiensis

We also bought three different cheeses for the road as they all looked so good. If you happen to pass Puhoi, I can thoroughly recommend it as well. They offer a deal for visitors (who are not on a budget): Grab one of the picnic baskets with a blanket, fill it with cheeses, crackers and chutneys, order drinks from the café and then just go outside to the picnic area and enjoy the food and sunshine. That sounds amazing.

We continued our way up north towards Whangarei. On one of these windy little roads, Flo spotted a shop with the name “Signs and motorbikes”, so he turned around and we had a look. It is exactly what it says: A shop for everything sign-related that you might want for a motorbike and also a workshop. After having a short tour around and talking to the owner, we order another world map for our panier as our improvised sticker already started to peel off. New Zealand and Australia have already disappeared from the map.

Mangawhai Heads and the sand dunes there were the perfect spot for a cheesy lunch break before continuing to Whangarei. We went shopping for dinner and breakfast and headed to Otamure Bay to a DOC campsite. This one is rather well maintained and there were even managers around to hand us a whole sheet full of instructions.

Nevertheless, it is a spot right at the beach again. We saw a bit of the sunset and Flo even jumped into the ocean briefly. I had no intention of doing the same. At all.

A rather healthy salad dinner with fried salmon for Flo ended this day quite nicely. We still have Puhoi Fejioa yoghurt for tomorrow though. Sounds so yummy.

: about 20 minutes to go, the moon still out

: tugged in, with a warm fleece

: these one make a surprising amount of noise

: a small patch of clouds on the horizon ablaze was the first sign

: the spot is just right to have the sun come up between the Coromandel and Great Barrier Island

: 25 minutes in, it was light

: Also a great spot for Auckland day trippers and motorbikers

: Grab a basket and some cheese and have a pick-nick on the lawn

: true that

: Oddly specific combination matching our needs exactly

: This dune stretches on for kilometers

: Another beautiful evening and beach

: Flo had to – it looked so welcoming

: Winter time up north, lots of stars. This is only 9 p.m.

Day 8 – Legging it

The tent, frozen, again!

This time the forecast held true. Mostly, that is. We got to ride back the lovely gravel road from far north of the Coromandel in sunshine, that was true. The predicted temperature was slightly off, though: instead of the promised +2 degrees, the frost on our tent and bike indicated it was more towards -2.

We took our time going back, taking ample of photos missed yesterday due to rain or the setting sun. I got my mandatory fording action shot 🙂 Speaking of fords: two local Kiwi bikers on V-Stroms were mighty impressed with my report of “nah, they were not deep, maybe 20 cm” …

The last breather for sanity was once again the Driving Creek Cafe. This time fully in sunshine, no ifs or buts. They even had the fire going … ahhh.

The rest of the day was taken up by a 200 km push to get north past Auckland and a lot of weird people along the way and on the campground. Does Auckland attract crazy?