Tag Archives: shipping

Day 79 – Liberation day!

Finally, after 25 days of waiting, cursing and hoping, Rocinante is free. As of 10:30 today, she is officially back on the (East Timorese) road! Too long. Never again container shipping!

Am i in the way?

Am i in the way?

It took us a bit to decide what we were to do now. Go now? Take our time and leave tomorrow morning? In the end, we decided for the more relaxed version. After nearly 3 weeks without the bike and our gear all over the place, packing took a bit of time.

Around 2ish, we were mostly done. We needed to stock up on a couple of things and, of course, get more fuel than what was left in the tank after shipping. Heading out to refill our tyres with air was a little adventure in itself. Flo had seen a tiny shop that had air. Stopping there, we caused a little uproar. People are not used to such big bikes and would stop on the street, just to look at us. The shop owners on the other hand were delighted that we came to them and asked all sorts of questions. The most popular ones seem to be “how big is the engine?” and “where do you come from?”. We left with much waving and headed for the backpackers to say

good bye to the travellers we met there. Hubert and Alex were still cleaning their bikes for the shipping and were easily spotted. Marten and Reed said hi as well while we were parked in the yard.

A last shopping stop at Timor Plaza with more questions later, we were done. Smaller chores still had to be done and Flo hopped back on the bike to organize dinner and get our flash drives back which we had lend to Joris.

In the evening, we watched “No” with Gael García Bernal, which felt oddly right in Timor-Leste.

Day 73 – the good life

We could be happy. We should, shouldn’t we? I mean, we are in a tropical wonderland, the sea, good food, nice people and sunshine all day and all of it on a budget that is less than our rent back home. And we are enjoying it. If only I could convince my gut of the fact. Being separated from the bike for so long, plus the uncertainty of when exactly we will get it back creates this constant presence in the back of my mind. “This is not the trip, this is an interlude” – “Everything will be alright once you have the bike back”. For the most part, this was the first day where I could quiet that little voice enough to just enjoy myself and relax.

After four days in Dili, we had to do some washing. Even that proved to be an adventure as the washing machine was like nothing I have ever used and had to be filled with water from the hose. It worked amazingly well though and is much quicker than washing everything in a sink.

After four days in Dili, we had to do some washing. Even that proved to be an adventure as the washing machine was like nothing I have ever used and had to be filled with water from the hose. It worked amazingly well though and is much quicker than washing everything in a sink.

That is, until it all came rushing back to me. The VSA volunteers are an amazing bunch, but waves of doubt and terror washed over me when two of them started smirking at my expected timeline for getting the bike. The words “it might take weeks” were used and my heart skipped a beat. But no. They know a lot and were full of great advice for Dili, but when it comes to shipping bikes, I know my stuff, I have done my research. Only 3 more steps. The ship arrived in Darwin today, so the container (I know the number) needs to go onto the ANL Darwin trader; the ship needs to come to Dili, docking and unloading is scheduled for Monday, but might be delayed by up to 3 days due to traffic. Final step: The container goes to the bond yard, we pay and pick up our bike. Once it is in the bond yard, I can pester the shipping agent until they let me to my bike, so the only other delay may be getting the container from the wharf to the bond yard. A week in total, maybe, but not “weeks”.

So goes my mantra, and with that, I have managed to relax a bit. We spend the day reading, blogging and researching our next steps. The plan is for now to catch the cheap ferry to Atauro Island on Saturday and come back on Monday to sort out the bike.

Opposite to the entrance of our sunset bar. There are many stray dogs around and we've already seen a couple with puppies.

Opposite to the entrance of our sunset bar. There are many stray dogs around and we’ve already seen a couple with puppies.

We had lunch in a western style vegetarian café near Timor Plaza that Nina got recommended. The pieces and the décor made it clear that this is predominantly a place for malae (foreigners) – a fact highlighted by the two ridiculously out of place American ladies whose conversation on marketing skills would have been more suited to a posh LA café than a place surrounded by stray dogs and accessed via wooden planks over an open drain / stream. The food was good, but about 5x more expensive than our lunch yesterday. I guess, since this is the first place we ate at that handed out receipts, the western businessmen don’t care much about the price.

Half way through our almost customary afternoon nap, Herman came back. His afternoon meeting has fallen apart a bit, so he got spare time to pick us up and drive us around for some more sightseeing. This time, we went east, to the statue of Pope John Paul II, a little bit behind the airport. It tells you something about the level of catholic-ness when the capital city’s coastline is framed by two symbols of faith looking towards it.

Sun is starting to set.

Sun is starting to set.

To round off the day and get the sunset we missed last time, we went to a very posh bar on the eastern beach. Slouched on bean bags with a coke in hand, I was able to push the demon of bikelessness to the back for a while and enjoy the sunset.

Also not without mention should be our dinner, which Nina enjoyed immensely. We went back to the place from last night to check out their sit-down restaurant part serving Indian. The paneer was great. I love how international the food is in Dili, and how easy it is for Nina to find tasty vegetarian food.

So all was well … until the demon returns …

Day 38 – Winter you say?

The night was cool alright, maybe 8° C, but the day felt a lot like Wellington summer. With all the green that is still around, it is really hard for us to fully comprehend that this is winter. Be it as it may, we are enjoying it. A whole day of sunshine and agreeable temperatures. Maybe even a little bit too cold still for hanging around in the shade all day.

View back down, Hawker is just out of sight to the left.

View back down, Hawker is just out of sight to the left.

Right, what were we up to today? Well, for the most part, all these little things that needed doing but we did not get to on a normal travel day. A good bunch also required internet / phone connectivity, so around mid-morning we called it and decided on a rest day (i.e. staying in the Hawker camp ground).

The army surplus haversacks-made-tank-pannier we picked up in Auckland have proven themselves over the last week as excellent temporary (food) storage. Therefore, with an extra buckle and strap Nina has turned them into a permanent solution. I am very pleased with the final result, and the $35 price tag for the lot is a sweet bonus.

I have been busy with more general titbitty stuff: Load new audio books onto the Garmin; order spare parts and minor bits of kit to Darwin (including Nina’s Compañero pants); post the last blog entry; PC maintenance and a bunch of emails.

unknown berry

unknown berry

Last of all, I called my contact for shipping the bike from Darwin to Dili to get the dates and a confirmation that they are still the right place to go through (don’t laugh, it was a fun little daisy chain of “we don’t do that anymore” to get to them in the first place). The news was average: There are two sailings we could aim for – first with a cut-off of the 22nd of September, the other one on 1st of October. The first would mean a mad rush, but unfortunately the second sailing has a 9 day wait from cut-off to departure, probably another 3-4 days until we can start to free our bike in Dili.

For now, we are aiming for the 1st, knowing that these dates are famously sketchy from what we have learned from other travellers. So there might be hope.

After all was done and I went out to shop for another abysmal meal (when the petrol station is also the tourist info and the supermarket, not too much can be expected from me in terms of tastiness).

Sorry, no tele, but they were pretty cool in between the ruins.

Sorry, no tele, but they were pretty cool in between the ruins.

Around 3 pm, we finally had everything done and were ready to at least do a little bit of sight-seeing for the day. We headed south with a light bike to go on a little hike from the abandoned homestead of Kanyaka. After some minor challenges (all due to bad signposting, I swear), we found the ruins of the homestead and went on our way to visit the “death rock”, a distinct boulder marking a water hole. The bolder was used by the local Adnyamathanha people to bar their dead, hence the name. Oh, and we got our emu-spotting ticked off the list 😉

After that, we headed back to Hawker to check out another lookout signposted from town. Unfortunately, once there we found out that the actual lookout was another 20 min walk out from the car park. With the sun setting already, we took the views from the road and headed back to camp for some food and blogging.

Sunset over Hawker

Sunset over Hawker

A small side note at the end: We have been welcomed warmly if a little gruff by the majority of Australians we encounter. But within not even 10 minutes, a lot of these encounters exhibit something that John Oliver once brilliantly worded as: “Australians are comfortably racist”. The mere fact that we were the only ones to cringe when an old chap during a roadside stop peaked his crown jewel of a joke with: “and then the blackfella said” …

 

In other news: Nina is neither amused by the warmth nor by the bazingillon flies …

Day 30 – FREEDOM for Rocinante!

At least, nothing has moved. Now, out of this!

At least, nothing has moved. Now, out of this!

After one last deflected try from the freight people to extract some more money out of me, I got the confirmation around 10 am this morning, the bike is ready to be picked up! Finally. Even though we are staying another night, just having her back makes all the difference for me, mentally.

Thus started a frantic afternoon of activity: First, a taxi ride down to the docks. I had to bring the two new panniers to be sure to be able to bring everything back. So there I was, tiny me with my two boxes in hand at the gate of ACFS port logistic. Left and right the massive lorries and their road hardened drivers. Quite out of place.

I had to be escorted to the bike, since normally only lorries and maybe the odd courier come on premise. All properly equipped with my loaned high-vis vest of course.

Waiting for my escort across the yard. Safety first, people!

Waiting for my escort across the yard. Safety first, people!

The guys there were actually pretty all right to me. They helped with taking apart the crate and then the foreman hung around  the entire time while the civilian that is me was busy:

  1. Unloading the bike.
  2. Installing the mounting clips for the new Zega Pro2 cases.
  3. Hurting myself using the wrong tool (thanks Touratech, who on earth uses torx? Probably BMW …).
  4. Empty the 5l jerry can into the tank.
  5. Packing everything back onto the bike.

    Clearly a bit out of place.

    Clearly a bit out of place.

  6. Tying down the big bag on the back.
  7. Notice that I forgot to hook the battery up again.
  8. Unload the bike again to get to the tool and battery.
  9. Reload the bike.
  10. Drive off the lot!

Disposal for the $600 crate was luckily only $35. I have heard horror stories from other travelers where the warehouse guys asked for 100’s of dollars for the privilege.

Mandatory minor injury for me working on the bike.

Mandatory minor injury for me working on the bike.

After I have properly refueled and dropped all gear off at our base, it was time to finally sort out the rear tire. The Shinko was getting quite balled – or in other words, I have made the 80/20 tire into a racing slick …

Unfortunately, there is no combination of shop that sells the tire and shop that will touch my Transalp to install it. So I ended up riding 35km out of town to pick up the tire and then back into town to drop the bike with the workshop that will fit it for me. Yes, I could do it myself, but I rather prefer to save the sweat and pain for when I really need it and have the wheel properly  balanced at the same time.

So, tram ride home and packing … time to get on the road again!

The bike is "home", finally.

The bike is “home”, finally.