Tag Archives: road

Day 186 – Battambang

This was an easy riding day today. Only 175 km on a mostly deserted highway from Siem Reap to Battambang. The reason to stop so soon was two fold. For one, so that we have a good launching point for the remainder to Phnom Penh, but secondly to stop early enough to have some time to explore Battambang.

We found some colonial architecture but were mostly impressed by the chillaxed atmosphere of the town

We found some colonial architecture but were mostly impressed by the chillaxed atmosphere of the town

The city is the capital of the province by the same name. In recent history, it was occupied a couple of times by the Thai. It has some cool French colonial architecture left standing and is a way to experience a little bit of what “normal” Cambodian cities would look like.

We took our time, started after a late breakfast and made good progress. The road is smooth, the traffic manageable – with the exception of the overtaking by some of the cars. There is a clear but annoying hierarchy in Cambodia: Cars don’t see oncoming motorbikes as a valid reason not to overtake. After all, they can always move to the shoulder. Unfortunately, this extends to us – but I will surely not go off the tarmac into sand at 80 km/h, so it takes a bit of focus and liberal use of the horn to explain the error of their ways to the kamikaze cars every 10 km or so. Overall, it is still quite manageable though.

Our first lunch outside the tourist area of Siem Reap: BBQ Chicken and Papaya salad for US$2.75

Our first lunch outside the tourist area of Siem Reap: BBQ Chicken and Papaya salad for US$2.75

Lunch was taken at a roadside BBQ joint that stood out by its spotless seating area. It has become harder to find passable places to eat – Indonesia was a highlight in that regard. This time we were lucky though – and even got a veggie salad for Nina. The owners were charming, the BBQ chicken delicious and all of it ridiculously cheap at $2.75 US.

Sadly, the recommended cute little backpacker place would only take two day plus reservations, so by the time we arrived, they were booked out. We went with Agoda once more and found this comparatively luxurious hotel, just a little bit out but still within walking distance for $8 US per night. Once more we unloaded, got a shower and got ready to hit the town. The afternoon was just right for it. It had cooled down a little and the light was gorgeous again.

Flo found a "trimm dich pfad" (workout stations) at the riverside and had to try it

Flo found a “trimm dich pfad” (workout stations) at the riverside and had to try it

After a loop to take in the river and architecture (and some fooling around at the monkey bars) it was time to feed Nina’s inner chocolate monster. What better place than the Choco L’Art – a gallery / cafe run by a French / Khmer couple.

Since we were keen to get to bed and ready for a long day of riding tomorrow, we decided to go straight from tea to dinner. Once more picking a “dining for a cause” restaurant, we treated ourselves to delicious Khmer food in the most cozy of places. We are still blown away by the harsh contrasts between the Cambodian reality outside, especially during the dusty dry months, and the spic and span places set for westerners to leave their hard dollars.

Day 136 – Danau Toba

Having wifi for a night helped a lot with uploading our many, many pictures. So we didn’t mind too much that we had to go out and look for food. Despite our previous experience in Indonesia, many of the food stalls were actually open at 6.45am. With lontong and nasi gurih we had the typical cooked meal for breakfast, something I can now eat but will probably never really appreciate.

Back at our hotel, we got another round of coffee and tea with a plate full of sweet things…I am unsure why they told us that breakfast wasn’t included.

Rocinante had made it through the night in one piece. It was one of these rare occasion when we had to park her just off the street rather than in a private yard or behind a gate. When we had come back from dinner last night, two of the hotel staff had tried to move her which gave us both nearly a heart attack. I was quite worried about the bike throughout the evening.

And off we went. Our goal was to make it to Danau Toba today and have a rest day there, given that we have ridden for 11 days straight now and covered about half of Java and 2000km in Sumatra. This far north, we are now in the region of the Christian Batak people. All of a sudden, Christianity and Christmas are back with churches, roadside Christmas trees and the “Selamat Hari Natal & Tahun Baru”.

If you are now wondering how we can make so many kilometres in Sumatra and still have road to go: Sumatra is the sixth largest island in the world.  If you look at a globe, we are now as far away from Wellington as we are from Frankfurt.

Flo's boots after a bit with a landslide

Flo’s boots after a bit with a landslide

Roadwise, we are back on the “main road” which is still mostly mud these days (ok, the occasional but very bad muddy bit). Flo was happy that we still have the Heidenau tyres on as they give us good grip on the most grimy surfaces. Landslides occur often in the rain so today we actually gave some money to the workers clearing the way because if they hadn’t, we would have been stuck.

After lunch, it got cooler and we realized that we were at 1800m above sea level with a nice wind that reminded us of NZ. It didn’t take long and we started to have views down from the high plateau towards Lake Toba and the gigantic island in its middle, about the size of Singapore. The “island” had originally been a peninsula but is now separated from the mainland by a channel with a very short bridge over it.

Looking down on Danau Toba and the island of Samosir

Looking down on Danau Toba and the island of Samosir

Still having to go 50km around the island to its other side, we were getting mighty tired and looking forward to our break from the bike. In the village of Tuk Tuk, there are many guest houses and we had picked one to check out. When we finally arrived and it looked decent, we booked it for two nights and collapsed…for about five minutes. Then chores dawned on us. We organized some laundry as 11 days is stretching our cloths-limit quite a bit. I had ice cream while Flo (“tall and handsome”, remember?) was asked to help carry a generator which looked pretty heavy.

The only other thing we managed today: Have coffee, black tea with real milk and German cake. Yes, there is a German-owned guest house (outside of our price range) with an attached bakery so we got Streuselkuchen and lemon cake. It was sooooooooooooo good! It got even better when the residing cats decided that I was allowed to pat them. 🙂

Day 87 – Balibó and Maliana

Today, we left Dili for good. Quite weird how attached we have become to this place which was our base for more than two weeks. We said our good-byes to Herman and I am curious about what he has to tell us about Dili once the wet season starts.

The beach in front of the resort and restaurant

The beach in front of the resort and restaurant

From Dili it is only a short ride to Cameo Beach, home to the Black Rock Café. Flo met someone at Cyclone in Darwin who told him to go there as his aunt was running it. So we pulled up for a drink but didn’t get a chance to meet the owners. Instead, two kiwi ladies on push bikes pulled up. In their own words “mad malae”. 🙂

It turns out that Jenny knows Herman – Timor is a small place after all. After about an hour, we parted with the lovely company to make our way towards Maliana. Jenny recommended a stop at the fort in Balibó where a new place just opened. We wouldn’t be able to afford the $85 a night but a coffee stop is always possible. Continue reading

Day 43 – highway life

Road is in top condition, we can concentrate on our books ;)

Road is in top condition, we can concentrate on our books 😉

508 km … *phew* – I have heard so many riding tales of bikers having had a +1000km days. I will make a call now and say: never! I have done it in a car for sure, but 2 up, on our bike, +10 hours in the saddle … just no. Plus, alth

ough the days are getting rapidly longer now (spring coming and moving towards the equator) but daylight is still a limiting factor for us. So far we were successful in avoiding Australia’s most deadly animal, the Kangaroo, and I’d like to keep it that way.

So what happened today? Not much, really. First and foremost, we have learned that the reboot of the Perry Rhodan series, called Perry Rhodan Neo, has a much darker tone than the original series at that point.

Another border, last one in Australia

Another border, last one in Australia

… oh, you want to read about the country? We passed into the Northern Territory, the last Australian state on our route. This enormous piece of land is only home to between 180k and 250k (varying sources, no internet to check).

The landscape has changed after Coober Pedy, for the arid desert type to a more typical outback setting. Red sand, green shrubs and bushland left and right of the road. A lot more hills, mesa and cliffs than I would have expected.

The most important change in wildlife for us is seeing these enormous eagles for the first time. Sitting on roadkill till the last second, they reach to about my hip sitting on the bike, so up to 1m tall. Beautiful birds. In other news, flies are still annoying. No one tells you about them before going into the outback (at least not us), but they are everywhere. At least we found out today that they don’t like fire. As soon as we put water on the stove, they left us in peace. A little bit of Shellite is a small price to pay for not being pestered …

A mesa is a flat top mountain ... I have read ...

A mesa is a flat top mountain … I have read …

With a last push, we arrived at Curtin Springs. It is free camping within 100km of the rock, so we did not look twice. It has a nice view of Mt. Conner, a mesa often mistaken for Uluru. We both like it in its own right.

We’ll move to the Ayers Rock Resort ($36 for an unpowered campsite) either tomorrow or the day after to do the sunrise / sunset thing for Uluru and go hiking around Kata Tjuta.