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Day 26 – Dublin City Tour

Since Belfast we had promised Number 3 a ride in a cool bus. We were thinking about the red double-decker sightseeing busses for Dublin, in the end we decided to take the easy route and buy tickets for BigBus Dublin, a company with slightly less red open-top double-decker busses. They started from our campground at 9.30am which seemed to make it the logical choice.

Dublin had overwhelmed me the second I started reading about it. We’ve been tourists in big cities before but somehow, after driving the Wild Atlantic Way for almost its entire length, Dublin seemed daunting. Most of the “must see”s and “top things to do” didn’t feel very kid-friendly, at least not with small kids. Trinity Collage seems amazing…we skipped it altogether as it felt like it would bore the kids to walk around university. The pub scene…Flo’s and my heart bled but there was no good way of making it work with the kids.

With that jacket, if she falls at least we will find her again

So here’s what we did DO. We bought 48 hour hop on-hop off tickets for the BigBus Dublin. Starting at 9.30am, we left for town from our campground. I was anxious we’d miss it, the online tickets didn’t really come through on time, everybody got stressed…in the end, our camera fell down. Pretty spectacularly as well. Luckily, it was only slightly damaged. The battery which was missing a lid already before the trip now stopped staying inside its casing. Flo managed to wedge it in with tape for now…it will need lots of TLC once we’re back home. There’s probably more minor damage but at least it worked for the rest of the day.

The bus drove on the motorway for about 30 minutes without a stop. It was rather quick compared to the 45 minutes regular buses take to get to town. Stopping at “Stop Number 1” of the tour, we had to switch buses but left for real this time within 4 minutes for the 90 minutes sightseeing tour. That is the first thing we did: Get a feeling of the lay of the land, see some sights, have the kids enjoy an open-top bus ride.

Dandy in the park

It gave us an idea of what we could do later in the afternoon or even tomorrow. Driving by the Guinness Storehouse, a very popular stop of the tour, we decided that we’d get tickets for tomorrow for this attraction. Arriving back in the midst of Dublin’s center, we got off at the northern side of the river Liffey at lunch time. The restaurant we’d picked for lunch was closed unfortunately (no lunch on Mon-Weds) so we ended up in a very different location: A small Korean eatery in the back of a Korean supermarket. A very unlikely thing to stumble upon but lucky for us as the food was delicious and even the kids tugged in properly which is always a concern.

Our only picture of Ha’penny bridge. By this time, we’d gotten off the bus. If you’re lucky, you can spot the person floating in the river in the background

From here, we explored the city on foot. The Temple Bar District was just over there, on the other side of the river, so we crossed Ha’Penny Bridge. While admiring the bridge and the river, we noticed a person floating in the river realizing a second later that this person needed to be saved which happened in form of a bystander shedding his cloths and jumping into the river. Many rings were thrown, most of them poorly. A minute or so later, the fire fighters arrived and they were professionals at throwing lifesaving devices into the river. Two of them joined the bystander in the water by which point we left as it looked like a successful save already. Number 3 was rattled by the situation and the loud noises of fire fighters and ambulance.

Inside the Chester Beatty Library

The Temple Bar district looked pretty epic, thus adding to our heartache. Checking which sights were near, Flo picked the Chester Beatty Library. It turned out to be a really cool place. The Agent of Entropy slept through most of it (again) but Number 3 was pretty engaged with what was on display.

Time for coffee! Going to Clement & Pekoe didn’t take too long and their sweet treats were absolutely lovely. Plus, they had a whole wall full of different teas on display. I actually bought some to give my sister when we’re back home. There was time for one more thing this afternoon before dinner and it was my time to pick. The kids had picked the bus, Flo had picked the library, now it was my go. Fair and square, right? Unfortunately, Number 3 made quite the fuss that he wasn’t allowed to pick but we stuck to St Patrick’s cathedral for the afternoon.

Number 3 designing his own flag

Walking there was a chore not because it was far away but my kid made it pretty damn exhausting. And then we were there, bought tickets and the amazing lady at the counter gave him crayons and a booklet “Explore St Patrick’s with Millie the Mouse”. He was all in for that, looking at things, discovering flags and bells, creating his own flag and generally loving it. Flo got to listen to most of the audio guide while Millie the Mouse taught me a couple of things as well. XD

After a ten minute break in the park right next to St Patrick’s, we went for dinner. The kids were tired, we were tired and a fancy restaurant would probably end in a disaster. So we decided to have pizza, enthusiastically agreed to by our 2 year old. A nine minute walk through a more and more residential looking neighbourhood later, we walked through a pub to get to a back yard with a pizza place. It was a little piece of heaven in form of a woodfired pizza oven. I shared my “Smoked Magherita” daily special pizza with the Agent who ate two whole slices of it. That is A LOT for such a tiny human. It was so good! The tomatoes had been smoked over applewood chips, giving the whole pizza a smoky flavour. Yum yum yum.

Alright, time to get the bus back to our car and the tent at the campground. Oh, the buses back only run once an hour…we better get going. Number 3 was an utter champion running in front while we hustled through the streets to the bus stop. It was getting late and another hour in the city seemed daunting with the tired kids. The bus was late as seems to be a usual occurrence in Dublin so we even had to wait for it. Then a 45 minutes bus ride and finally, we were back at the tent and put the kids to bed.

Day 18 – La Serenissima or Venice! Finally!

Okay, just as a warning, there will probably be a lot of squeeing. It is my first time in Venice. And Venice is one of these places that you know something about without ever having been there. It’s the city in the water. Also, being in Venice during carnival and going all out on a costume is on my bucket list.

first views of the outlying islands

The day started on our lovely campground. Flo organized two-day passes for the public transport in and around Venice which will make getting around so much easier. We packed up and left. Of course, I forgot the “Italian road trip” Lonely planet, which is the only guide book we brought, on the campground while the Venice guide book is still at home. -.- Oh well. At least we had the app.

Off we went. The bus left super close to the campground. Taking the land bridge to Venice, we already saw the sea and then buildings started to appear on the horizon. Venice!

The bus stop is where everybody got off for their own personal Venice experience. We opted to use the “face first” approach for the city and take a vaporetto to San Marco. Vaporettos are water busses which take you around Venice. Line 1 goes along the Canale Grande and stops at every lamp post. However, since we just wanted to get to our starting point, we used line 2, which took us to San Marco quicker but on a less picturesque way along the outskirts.  

A big task she had picked for herself there …

So, our day started on a boat. We were lucky enough to get seats outside, put our noses in the wind and eventually have a good view on a couple of amazing buildings, including the doge’s palace. Piazza San Marco was our first destination. It was already really hot in the sun and it was only like 10.15am. Then again, it’s just beautiful. You walk around and everything around you is just so lovely to look at. We are really fortunate to travel now as Piazza San Marco was nowhere near the level of crowds it usually draws. As our half-Italian friend put it when he saw a picture “Wow, it’s empty!”. J

So this was our start. Looking at the doge’s palace, San Marco basilica, the tower and the buildings surrounding Piazza San Marco…we just wanted to stay here for a bit. This is why we sat down in Cafe Florian, which has been around for the last 300 years, and the prime spot to look at the buildings and take it all in. It also has the most expensive coffee Flo (10.50 € a cup) had ever had. No matter, we were here to enjoy ourselves. We had coffee and tea and some macaroons and life was good. J

Coffee time moved straight into lunch time. Number 3 got hungry so we started walking around a little on our way to a little lunch place. As soon as you turn away from Piazza San Marco, the city quiets down. Sometimes, we were the only people in an alleyway. Just taking the city in through walking is something we really enjoy. The Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal was busier again and in the sunshine and thus too hot to linger.

just some impressions

Further we went, into the little alleys with tiny bridges over canals, here a turn, there a tunnel…it’s a maze and I don’t know how people get around without google. You can tell who’s local just by how confidently people turn corners into what looks like a house entrance but turns out to be a tunnel underneath a house and your only way to get to where you’re going.

We had lunch at a tiny whole-in-the-wall type place which made amazing pizzas. So far on our trip, it was pasta all the way. It was really nice to change to the other staple Italian food for once. It was good pizza. Even Number 3 enjoyed it and he’s not the biggest fan of pizza. As a side note: Number 3 was utterly charmed by the city. It had everything he wanted: Boat busses, water and food; including sweet treats. After lunch, we went on another boat ride, this time straight through the city until we got to the railway station. We didn’t mean to stop here but Number 3 needed to go to the toilet and in a classic move, we went into the wrong entrance first and had a little tour of all of the railway station in our search. Number 3 was delighted by the trains on display – he thought this to be a highlight of the day.

I had looked up a pastry shop where I wanted to have afternoon coffee really close to the railway station. Also, the railway station has a vaporetto stop which is just *so* convenient. From there, it was just a couple of minutes to Dal Mas. Oh, they had great stuff! Still being rather full, we all could just get one thing but they were all delicious.

worth the detour to another district

Our first day in Venice was a Sunday which meant that churches were closed for tourists as regular mess was held. Luckily, San Marco Basilica opened up at 2pm for tourists. We decided to get out of the sun and into a church. Another boat ride. By now we were professionals at riding a water bus.

The line to get into the basilica looked long, but it took 10 minutes tops to get in. We had our temperature checked, used disinfectant hand gel, got an audio guide for Flo and looked around inside. There is much to look at from the mosaics in the entry hallway to the colourful Venetian marble floors to the Pala d’Oro, for which we paid another 5 € to see. Given that the admission into the church is only 3 € per person, we could easily justify that extra expense. J

After this, we did a good bye tour of Piazza San Marco. Both kids were really, really tired and it was getting close to dinner time. So we took another boat, went back to Piazza Roma and took the bus back to the campground.

Such a great day. Number 3, especially, is the best city explorer I know. He walked so much today!

Day 246 – Baking fails and other delays

Our last day! Or so we thought. I, at least, started preparing pretty early on. Cleaned the kitchen box, sorted through our documents etc. Flo was way more relaxed. He voted to watch “Cowpocalyse” which we did as I needed to stop running around. While watching, the power suddenly went out. First, it was mostly annoying because the movie just went black. Then, we realized that Lina had started the breadmaker this morning which was now also off. What happens to the bread if the power just turns off?

If at first you don't succeed, why not fail again?

If at first you don’t succeed, why not fail again?

An hour later, it came back on. The bread didn’t fare too well…Flo set it on bake but when the breadmaker beeped, it didn’t look finished at all. Since this bread was ruined, we put the breadmaker back on with a new round of ingredients. It refused to start, telling us that it was too hot. Finally, it started. The end product was not impressive at all. The bread didn’t rise nearly as much as it should have and the texture was very dense and doughy. The heat probably killed off the yeast before the bread making even started. What a fail. 🙁

To make up for it, I wanted to make very chocolate-y cookies. Weighing the flour, we then searched the house for baking powder and cocoa…both of which we just couldn’t find! Deflated, we succumbed to an afternoon on the couch, watching tv, waiting for our hosts.

The slowest pizza on earth ...

The slowest pizza on earth …

Flo already toyed with the idea of staying another day as his arm was not as well as he would have liked it to be.

Lina and Michael arrived and showed the appropriate amount of piety for our baking failures. In comparison to their day, we have had a stroll in the park though.  Soon, all four of us jumped into the car to have pizza. In your face, strange day!

The pizza place looked abandoned from outside but a member of staff opened the door and nodded so we went in. Lina’s and my vegetarian pizzas arrived soon after and we munched away. Flo and Michael had to wait for a curiously long time. In fact, a white car delivered plastic shopping bags to the pizza parlor before they got their pizzas so they must have run out of something.

It got later and later. By 6.45pm, the pizzas arrived. The guys asked for a take-away box as Michael just wanted to go home to relax. On the way back, we decided to actually stay a day longer. That was probably the best call to make as we then had a lovely, chatty evening watching comedy on the TV.

Try again tomorrow. 😉

Day 243 – Stats 106 Thailand (and Pizza)

Today, we chilled … a lot. Shisha on the balcony, nice food all day long. Not really much to report other than my successful delivery of pizza after a nine month hiatus. Even improved my technique a little for that crispy crust …

Country data #6: Thailand

Full screen version of the map

  • 3853 km traveled (4030 km of GPS tracked) – odometer was out of order for a time
  • 286 km towed
  • 15 travel days, 12 days holiday, 39 days total
  • $23.91 Average cost per night (37x room, 1x camping, 1x airport, no invitation)
  • 188l of standard fuel for $  201.83 (5 l / 100km)
  • ~$25.86 for food every day, always eating out with some invitations
  • ~$10.250 in total, including medical, flights and bike shipping costs.

All $ values are converted to NZD.

Day 168 – The artsy town

Finally made it to the waterfront!

Finally made it to the waterfront!

Georg Town is actually known for its pretty, colonial era district (also listed as Unesco World heritage) and a lively scene of street art. Since we were occupied with the bike yesterday and then only moved in a radius of 50m from our hostel, today was the day for sightseeing.

We started the day with planning what’s to come after Georg Town. This is our last stop in Malaysia; the border to Thailand is not really far away anymore. However, all the interwebs told us that we will only get a visa for 15 days if we cross over at the land border. 15 days is too short for all of Thailand. So we made up elaborate plans to drive up north to Bangkok, change tyres and then swerve to the right into Cambodia…or try to get a 30 day visa here in Malaysia.

Spontaneously, we jumped on the bike, drove to the Thai embassy in Georg Town…and left again. The first employee we met was able to tell us that tourists cannot get a multiple entry visa here. Really, multiple entries is the only one that makes sense for us so we left again. The visa fees were horrendous as well.

Town Hall

Town Hall

Back in the hostel, we picked up Josy and Peter who had shown interest in doing the 2.5km long “walking tour” through the inner city which the Lonely Planet suggested. Glad to be out of our motorcycle gear again, we started. Man, it was hot. And almost lunch time as well. Not feeling up for a museum, we passed the Penang Museum before crossing the park in front of the City hall and Town hall. Only the 20 ringgit entrance fee deterred us (and the backpackers) from having a look inside Pinang Peranakan Mansion which is one of the best preserved old buildings in town.

From here, a quick walk through Little India brought us to an Indian, vegetarian place that I’d been eyeing up ever since we got into town. The Paneer Butter Masala was delicious while all of my fellows went for the set menu lunch and were rewarded with a tray full of 7 cups with different sauces, soups and even milk rice surrounding a mountain of rice topped with crackers. Flo ordered the deluxe version so had one cup more and chappati extra.

Minions are taking over the world

Minions are taking over the world

Happy and full, we continued from Little India with its blaring music to Chinatown. Starting from Lebuh Armenian, “my” section finally began: Georg Town’s street art. Those tiny little roads are filled with artsy tourist shops, scenes made from a thick metal wire and of course, the painted street art works. It’s hard to describe but I hope you get an impression through the photos. I really enjoyed it.

A bit of relaxing later, all four of us made our way through the city again. This time during dusk, towards the waterfront where Flo and I had picked an Italian restaurant. It was this time of the month again…our next try of Italian food in an Asian country. Checking out the prices at the door, Peter and Josy rather continued to the nearest food market while Flo and I decided to be decadent. Looking like tourists in our hiking pants and jandels, we still didn’t stick out too much. The pizzas were good; the best ones we have tried since leaving the western world but still a

My cake looked at me!

My cake looked at me!

tiny notch under a Scopa pizza for example. Being decadent already, Flo enjoyed a glass of wine to his food while I ate a piece of a rich Equatorial Gianduja cake. So good!

Back at the hostel, we ran into Josy and Peter again. Feeling generous and almost like in Wellington after the good food, we invited them to a drink in the “Behind 50” bar on the opposite side of the street from our hostel. It also looked and felt very kiwi so we got into reminiscing our time in Wellington…

 

 

Day 163 – Batu Caves

Trying to find breakfast in Melaka is almost as hard as finding dinner after 7pm. The Lonely Planet suggested cafes but when we got there, it was either closed or didn’t exist (to our knowledge). Not feeling like indulging in yesterday’s Western-style cafe, we ended up in the same Indian restaurant we were in the night before. THEY open at 7.30am, serve coffee and chai AND we were quite certain we would be able to find SOMETHING to eat. And we did. Despite Flo’s best efforts to get a savoury doughnut with chili and spices in it that you dip into curries and chutneys, we had yummy Roti Pisang which is the Indian version of banana pancakes.

Final lap. This is the southernmost point we will reach on the continent.

Final lap. This is the southernmost point we will reach on the continent.

Thus filled, we rode our ‘good-bye lap’ through the city center and left towards Kuala Lumpur. Since we had the whole day, we had planned for the scenic route along the coast instead of taking the motorway. It turned out to be not scenic at all as the GPS showed us the coastline right next to us but all we could see was a row of houses. Also, the road was rather boring. A short stop at Port Dickson didn’t convince us to stay longer so after lunch, we hopped on the motorway again. Being so early gave us the opportunity to see the Batu Caves today.

Maybe we should have read about who this is ...

Maybe we should have read about who this is …

I knew before that the caves are not far from the city but truthfully, they are IN the city. They are also a major tourist attraction which is why traffic picked up…nothing you particularly want after being steam-cooked on the motorway in the afternoon heat. After finding a parking spot, we had a cold drink before starting on the 272 steps up into the largest cave. It has Hindu carvings and a temple in it as it plays a big part in a celebration coming up at the end of January. The two caves used for this purpose are HUGE. Certainly as big as a cathedral and also the biggest cave we’ve ever been in. Preparations for the celebration were going on: Floor newly resealed and parts of temples newly painted.

Apart from looking at the grandeur, there is nothing to “do” in these caves though. It is very cool to go and see the caves (it’s also free) but we had the feeling, we wanted a bit more out of it. Luckily, next door there is the “Dark Cave” leading tourists in and out again in 45min tours. The “Dark Cave” is a habitat for bats, cave spiders and other creepy crawlies and also part of a conservation effort for limestone caves. Flo, being a big fan of limestone caves, and me being kinda meh about the whole thing, signed up for the tour. We only had to wait 15min for the next one and when we were fitted with hard helmets and torches, I got very excited about it, too.

All excited now and ready to go!

All excited now and ready to go!

Our guide was a woman whose English was excellent…unfortunately, the same could not be said about our fellow tour participants who violated rules every so often because they hadn’t understood them. We didn’t see any of the bats (it’s not a good idea to shine a torch on 200.000 bats on a cave ceiling) but you could definitely hear them; not to talk about all the guano on the ground. We managed to see caves spiders, venomous centipedes and cave crickets. Also, one part of the cave system has light coming in from above and it looks so much like Moria that it made me miss a step. 😛

There was less sunshine when we came back out again and also less tourists. Given that it was also 5pm, we guessed that the caves close around that time. We, now,had our next place to visit: Sunny cycles. On the way down to Melaka one of Rocinante’s warning lights went on and stayed on for the entire trip south. While the manual assured us that this particular warning light is not for anything crucial, Flo wanted to have it checked out. It took about 30min and stripping the bike down to pull the engine up (again) before it could be fixed. The “air intake hose from the air filter” (Flo-speak) was unplugged. Once this was plugged back in, the guys from the workshop forgot something else which led to nine warning lights going on. This was also fixed with plugging something crucial back in.

So after riding, sight-seeing and working on the bike, we arrived back “home” at Sonja’s place and were treated to delicious pizza, a shower and a cozy,comfy bed.

Day 105 – From rain forest back into savannah

Nice view for breakfast

Nice view for breakfast

Tete batu was even cool in the morning. But we decided to just see one waterfall before heading off to Kuta. Maybe we could have a beach day after all.

Driving up the rather washed-out road, we stopped at the house of a local with whom we had spoken yesterday. He pointed us in the right direction for the Air Terjun and we walked the last 200m there by ourselves. The place was way smaller than the waterfalls we had seen so far but it was still a lovely little place. One of the small falls produced a rainbow where the water hit the rocks and the locals had made a dam by the two biggest falls to retain the water. The thus created pool was deep enough to wash in.

All handcrafted organic rice here ...

All handcrafted organic rice here …

Coming back up we asked for a short guided tour and were taken through the village and along the rice fields for a good while. The sun was burning down again…I was really wishing for a pocket waterfall by this time so I could refresh myself whenever I wanted…

The tour ended with a walk through the aptly-named “monkey forest” where we saw many black and grey monkeys, some of them even carrying babies. Pictures are not nearly as impressive as we still don’t own a tele.

After this, we just packed the bike with the luggage we had left at our guest house (and realizing it was on the “monkey forest street”) and left the lovely town of Tete batu, full of nice people and great roadside “nanas” (pineapple).

As soon as we came further south, the landscape returned to the very dry savannah we have seen for so long now. I simply found it too hot to ride which made me grumpy which lead to a misunderstanding with Flo. We discussed things over food which helped and continued to Kuta, one of the beach towns in south Lombok. Unfortunately, neither Flo nor I took a particular liking to the town so instead of relaxing, I got properly homesick. I haven’t been homesick in a while and I guess exhaustion also played its part.

To compensate, we (against better judgement) tried pizza again for dinner and were only mildly disappointed with the average one we got.