Tag Archives: Meymand

Day 270 – Sneak peek into Persian family life

We enjoyed the wildflowers

We enjoyed the wildflowers

It got really cold over night, up in the mountains in a cave. When the alarm went off at 5.30 am, there was simply no way I could get out of bed. No way. Luckily, Flo didn’t insist on getting up so we stayed in the warm bed until the much more reasonable time of 7.30 am. Breakfast was served at 8 am in the restaurant and consisted of flat bread, butter, honey, a cream cheese that is somewhere between Philadelphia and feta cheese, hard boiled eggs and a plate with cucumber slices. Thus, we were ready to face the day.

Reached a nice high point of our hike.

Reached a nice high point of our hike.

Everyone else who wanted to had gone up the mountain hours before but we thought it would be sad if we leave without the slightest bit of hiking. So we put on our boots, packed some water and snacks and left on the dirt track towards the mountain. We had no idea how far we will get as it started to be quite warm in the sun already but there wasn’t much ambition in play anyway. We just wanted to have a nice view. Following the track around four bends, Flo spotted a tree up a hillside that looked like a great resting place. Up the hillside we went and it was definitely nice in the shade. Exploring further, we hiked up to the top of that hill, then spotted another, higher hill behind which we also climbed. Here, after another break and many pictures, we decided to call it and head back into the village.

Our escort to Shahr-e Babak

Our escort to Shahr-e Babak

Once back in the village, we came across Azemeh again. She had invited us yesterday to stay with her family in Shahr-e Babak and now her whole family (husband Mohhamad, three daughters and herself) were here to pick us up and escort us to her home. Such a sweet gesture! We, of course, were unprepared and hurried up to pack all our things so we were good to leave as well. Shahr-e Babak is the closest town to Meymand, maybe about 30 kilometers away. In no time, we arrived at the house where we also met the grandmother and an aunt and uncle who we had seen before yesterday. Being great hosts, they gave us the chance to have a shower and make ourselves comfortable before it was time for many, many questions from both sides.

The eldest daughter Mahdiye speaks English very well and was able to translate for people who didn’t speak much English. Mohadeseh, the middle daughter, also knew enough English to ask questions while little Maedeh only said my name and then relied on translation to get across what she wanted.

Everybody having fun

Everybody having fun

Being a vegetarian, which is not very common in Iran, I made lunch slightly harder for Azemeh. We went out for a tour through the town and to give Azemeh a chance to pick up some ingredients including a kind of bread that Shahr-e Babak is famous for. This is how we ended up in a car, Flo on the front seat next to Azemeh, all the girls on the back seats and Maedeh dancing to Persian pop music on the middle console.

When lunch was served, it turned out that I am the biggest food barbarian when it comes to Persian food. I simply know zero about it which equals knowing zero about what to eat with what. The table sported big bowls of rice which was a good start so I took some. It was clearly meant to go with the chicken which I skipped on. Next to my plate was a bowl with something that looked like sauce so I was about to put it on my rice when I was stopped. It was a yogurt soup that you eat with a spoon or rather you drop chunks of fresh bread in to soak up the soup and then eat the chunks with a spoon. I have never heard of it before but it was delicious. Plus, the Shahr-e Babak bread is delicious, too, and goes well with the cream cheese.

So yummy, so hospitable

So yummy, so hospitable

Next up, I put some salad on my plate next to my rice. This time, no one was quick enough to stop me but it is not what you do. There are special plates for salads and then you pour the dressing over it without it mingling with our other food. Whoops. Tea was served after lunch and I continued my barbarian streak when I asked for milk to put in the tea. One does not do this here but I was allowed to. 🙂 Then Flo dropped a cube of sugar in his cup which you also don’t do. You dip it into the cup, let it soak up some tea then put it in your mouth and drink the tea while it melts away.

During lunch, we also tried to learn Farsi words for the things we were eating but only a couple stuck, mostly the ones for bread and cheese. Tea is also on the list of things so I think I’ll be okay in the future. A little bowl with pistachios was served which was yummy AND an easy word in Farsi. Afterwards, I was really tired so I had a little 30 minute power nap before the day continued.

The rain did not scare all those Persians from their picnics

The rain did not scare all those Persians from their picnics

Since it was Friday and everyone was off school/work, we were good for an excursion to a huge field with rhubarb plants (or something very similar). It’s a very popular spot for the locals to go and have a picnic. We would meet up with more aunts and uncles and cousins there who gathered to be merry and cook a big pot of ash (not quite a soup, not quite a stew) together. The weather seemed to turn on us but we went anyway. Tea was served again and I shared the box of sweets that I had bought in Bandar Abbas so I could contribute something at least. It was great to see so many people and we played some volleyball or a version of dodge ball before having a bowl of ash.

Mohhamad, Azemeh and Maedeh with Charowo

Mohhamad, Azemeh and Maedeh with Charowo

The rain and wind picked up for real now. Packing everything back in the car, we still had many more pictures to take so everyone had their memory shot. Maedeh wanted some with us on the big leaves of the rhubarb plants which was sweet. Strawberries appeared from somewhere so there’s a picture of all of us holding up strawberries and then we all hopped into the car.

On the way back, we stopped at the field with pistachio plants. Flo had asked about it earlier as we both were unsure how the plant looks like and how pistachios are actually “made”. Here, we got a glimpse of tiny pistachios in the making.

The evening passed with more tea, conversation and then a serving of different fruits. Azemeh asked when we would like to have dinner but we had been eating the whole day and really didn’t need more food. Instead, she brought out her home-made baking. Full to the brim, we tried a small piece each and if we liked it, Azemeh packed a whole bag for us to take with us as snacks tomorrow. So, so kind and so, so yummy. I particularly liked small dough balls filled with chopped pistachios and probably dipped in a rosewater-honey blend (maybe).

At 9.30 pm, I nearly fell asleep on the couch so we went to bed which was earlier than any family member was accustomed to go to bed. It was a long day full of new experiences.

 

Day 269 – Meymand surprise

Didn't expect it to be so mountainous so soon...

Didn’t expect it to be so mountainous so soon…

Instead of going straight to Shiraz, we decided to go to at least one of the Lonely Planet suggestions for the east of Iran. Meymand sounded great and just like our thing. A slightly weird village in a quiet mountain region, sleepy and with a cool highlight (this is an ancient troglodyte village with 2500 rooms dug into the sandstone).

The ride looked a bit daunting for a day, with 450 km to go, but we thought to give it a try and stop if need be. At least we would leave the brutal heat of Bandar Abbas behind is. Even in the morning, the temperature went over 30 degrees. The landscape surprised us, with cool rock formations starting right outside of Bandar Abbas. As we got higher, the temperatures got more tolerable as well. With a decent two lane highway for almost the entire way, we made good progress.

Found a kebab shop where the owner assured me that they have nothing but meat...then Flo was served his kebab with bread and yogurt...

Found a kebab shop where the owner assured me that they have nothing but meat…then Flo was served his kebab with bread and yogurt…

During our lunch break we had our first encounter with a particular aspect of Iranian hospitality. Luckily our guidebook and friends prepared us for this: When we wanted to pay for our lunch, the shopkeeper said it was free. It is part of a polite game to refuse and insist on paying as a guest (three times). If they give in, it was politeness, if they insist it was a genuine offer. I like the dynamic of that – everything is very polite and done with a smile and it feels much nicer to spend money this way. Besides, the kebab was excellent.

Around 5 pm we were on the final kilometers towards Meymand, expecting a quiet night in a sleepy little town. Instead there was a greeting committee at the entrance to the village. With complementary drinks and cookies. We got swarmed and many smartphone photos got taken. Through much confusion, we found out that today of all days (Thursday is the first day of the weekend in Iran) they had a big festival going. The mountaineering club organized a big hike for Friday morning up one of the nearby peaks. This at least tripled the usual population of 40 with day trippers and camping hikers.

Posing with Mohsen

Posing with Mohsen

When we mentioned that we would like to stay in the towns only guesthouse (featuring a night in one of the many cave rooms of the town), smartphones got drawn all around and in no time we got ushered into the village and in front of the guesthouse keeper. People followed us all the way to get a chance to get a picture taken. We were village celebrates in no time, especially after some people translated the story behind our trip. At this point, Mohsen showed up with two girls in tow, being extremely nice and helpful as well. He is a local tour guide and invited us to come hiking with them in the morning – starting 6 am.

It's like a hobbit hole!

It’s like a hobbit hole!

A  bit overwhelmed, we unloaded our stuff into our little hobbit hole. After a little breather and a change of clothes, we had just enough time for a little stroll to explore the village before dinner in the guesthouse restaurant. We once again got stopped and asked for a picture at least every 5 meters. We heard rushed conversation all around with people explaining in Farsi what our deal was and where we were from to any newcomer. It was great fun and very sweet.

Azemeh asked for a picture with her and Maede before inviting us to her home. So lovely!

Azemeh asked for a picture with her and Maede before inviting us to her home. So lovely!

One of the encounters developed into something more though. We got asked for photos by a very nice lady. During our brief conversation, she invited us to visit her home. This, on it’s own is also not too unusual and is part of Iranian small talk when spoken lightly. We declined by explaining that we were staying in town this night, but Azemeh made clear that was a genuine offer. She and her family lived in the next proper city 35 km back. We had no firm plans and after some thinking, we agreed to call her once we got into town the next day (after maybe hiking in the morning). It was very touching to see that she was genuinely excited about this.

During dinner we met another kind couple from the Czech Republic. They had traveled a lot themselves and it was great to swap some travel stories. It also helped to ignore the rude behaviour of the big tour group from an unnamed neighboring country of Germany.

Exhausted, we retreated to our surprisingly cold room and crawled into our beds with an extra blanket each to snuggle up for the night.