Tag Archives: fellow motorbikers

Day 166 – Wear and tear

These were the kindest, loveliest, most heart-warming people we met in a while

These were the kindest, loveliest, most heart-warming people we met in a while

There is no doubt about it, this day started way better than it would eventually conclude. We remembered from yesterday that the lovely place we had lunch at also serves breakfast. Since the breakfast at our hotel was underwhelming to say the least, we were more than keen to go there. The owners actually remembered us from yesterday and were super kind once more. We had delicious strawberry pancakes and our usual coffee and tea setup. It’s these encounters that keep us going, honestly.

Rocinante between the two GS DownUnder bikes.

Rocinante between the two GS DownUnder bikes.

Only 200m after packing the bike and hitting the road, I spotted something out of the corner of my eye that had us stop again right away. A pair of overlander bikes, with the unmistakable Touratech panniers were parked on the main street of Tanah Rata. We stopped and had a look around until we found Bjorn and Willemien in the same Indian restaurant we had dinner last night. They have come down overland from the Netherlands. Since we already had breakfast, we kept it to a brief chat, exchanged some contacts and went back on the road.

It was not too far though, and the first disaster of the day was about to strike. We refueled a couple of kilometers north before we intended to tackle Gunung Brinchang (highest public road in mainland Malaysia). But then, Rocinante would not start with what looked like a flat battery. Only that it should not have been flat. A suspicion started to creep up on me while we push started the bike down the hill.

The stupid fall last night when I tried to lubricate the chain on my own? Well, instead of just falling flat on her side, Rocinante hit a massive flower pot that went right into the left rear cover. That panel covers all the really important electronic parts of the bike: Regulator, ABS computer, ECM (Engine management) and fuse box. It did not look too damaged from the outside, though …

Sure enough though, right after the push start the next issue arose. The ABS light was blinking, warning about an issue with the break system. So we stopped on the roadside 100m on and I had a look under the cover with the engine kept running. Luckily, this issue was sorted by forcing the plug of the ABS unit back in properly.

A little boulder had come down a while ago...

A little boulder had come down a while ago…

The road up to Gunung Brinchang was sealed all the way, all though a bit worse for wear. The only mild worry were all the big land-cruisers zipping about with loads of tourists on board. With the road pretty steep and narrow, Nina got a bit worried that one of these cattle haulers might come flying and knock us off the road. Gladly, none of the sort happened. Only that reaching the top was a bit of a let down in the end. The clouds were hanging so low that there was nothing to see here. Oh well, at least Rocinante started without issues or warning lights this time …

And then, the world disappeared

And then, the world disappeared

Next stop, Ipoh! The mountain road was nice, until the clouds drew darker and darker. This time, we missed our 30 second window to stop and decided to put on wet weather gear, and so we got drenched through when the first bit of rain hit. The rain here is really an all or nothing affair.

We decided against another detour with minor sights around Ipoh and headed for the center of town instead for some lunch. At first we could not find the restaurant from the Lonely Planet we wanted, then found another recorded one which would turn us away again at the mention of Nina’s vegetarianism. Hot and frustrated we got back onto the bike, when real disaster struck. A push of the starter button did not produce the reliable humm of the starter motor but instead “crashed” the electronics of the bike. Rocinante would not start, and for the first time ever I did not know the cause right there and then.

We pushed her one street over to where the restaurant was that we were initially looking for, only to find out that it was closed. Defeated we dropped into the first forgettable eatery we saw and considered our options. Just in case I checked in with one of our contacts for workshops in Ipoh.

I was able to get the bike started again, after some tinkering with the electronics under the side cowl. Less exciting was the fact that the issue seemed to be related to the Engine Control Module, a prohibitively expensive black box type computer controlling engine operation. Well, once started, she seemed to be running fine …

The 150 km to Penang flew by in no time on the motorway. For no particular reason, we took the “old” bridge over onto the Island. Impressive as it is, the new 27 km long motorway over the sea seems impressive to say the least. This is the only time that even motorbikes need to pay the toll in Malaysia. We could not find any place to pay our RM1.40 in cash. Just when we were about to fork over RM20 for a toll card, someone handed us his wave & go card and payed for us to get through. Since toll is only payed getting onto the island, we were sorted! Nice.

In town, the day wound down with another minor series of catastrophes. The road to our intended hotel was closed for a movie shoot, the hotel was full and a fat white man got randomly prissy with us. Then we got ping ponged between three of the many Red Inns of George Town’s Love Lane.

Night food market near our hostel

Night food market near our hostel

As often, the day concluded in a great positive encounter with a local contact. Through Tony from Touratech we got hooked up with BK. He has just come back from a 6 month trip on Honda Waves to London and is somewhat of a local legend. We went out to an amazing food court, talked about traveling and everything else and went home with a contact number for Jonathan, the local motorcycle electronics wizard!

 

Day 108 – Visa matters

Coming to Bali meant two things: It is going to be more touristy and we will have to sort out some of our visas. Most importantly our NZ visa as there is a visa application center on Bali and immigration NZ had let us know via phone that we can apply there.

this is the "sandwich" Nina is talking about. Chocolate cookies for bread ...

this is the “sandwich” Nina is talking about. Chocolate cookies for bread …

Packing our things, we drove down to Sanur. There is a German consulate here which we visited first. Just to make sure we don’t need any temporary papers for the time our passports will be sent to New Zealand. Nah, all good, we don’t need anything but a receipt from the application center. Is there a chance that we could get a second passport, you know, to apply for a Pakistani visa? No, absolutely not, this is just for business people. *le sigh*

Rocking up at the consulate on our bike, had given us a lot of attention from the security people who recognized the license plate and gave us many thumbs up. When we left again, there was a guy waiting for us. He had seen the bike and wanted to talk to use as he himself owns an Africa Twin. Thus we met Santosh, an Indian ex-pat living on Bali and currently house-sitting for friends in the same street that the consulate was on.

To facilitate our conversation, we hopped into Café Smorgås where Flo had juice but I had the most delicious ice cream sandwich…maybe ever. 🙂

Extra lane for motorcycles.

Extra lane for motorcycles.

Despite wanting to talk to a fellow motorbike traveller, I got itchy as the visa application center was still on for today. So we made dinner plans with Santosh and left for Benoa Square which houses the center. There is a toll road leading around Denpasar rather than through it. It costs 4500 Indonesian rupiahs for a motorcycle which is about 50 cents and cuts out a fair bit of traffic. And the best thing: Motorcycles get their own separate lane away from the cars and trucks.

Applying for our visa was not as straight forward as we hoped it to be. First of all, the application center had no means of checking if we are eligible for the visa we wanted so wouldn’t hand out the form despite us knowing even the number of the form we needed. Instead, we had to email them. This email then got forwarded to the NZ embassy in Jakarta. Then we waited on their reply to be able to actually apply. We would have loved to just get in contact with the embassy in Jakarta but they have no public website or email address so this was not an option. We had to go through the application center.

the whole road is on stilts over the shallow lagoon

the whole road is on stilts over the shallow lagoon

In the end, we got the right form, filled it out, stapled our passport pictures to it and then waited. And waited. And waited. The computer system was down (which we had been told before) but apart from having to pay in cash (which we were told), there was actually no way to put our application through (which we hadn’t been told). Instead of communicating any of the problems to us, we sat around from 1.30pm until 5pm with an increasingly frantic member of staff who kept trying to put our application through every 10min.

In the end we had to leave without applying and the advice to come back tomorrow. All this waiting made me nearly insane but Flo kept his cool.

Hindu symbolism everywhere. Here, a roundabout

Hindu symbolism everywhere. Here, a roundabout

Back in Sanur, Santosh helped us find a room for our budget and then showed us around town a bit on the way to dinner. The room was in a sweet Balinese style homestay, and our room was all carvings and decorations. Later in town, I even managed to buy postcards.

Dinner was lovely in a warung makan that gave us our first taste of Java. It was well frequented by locals and you get great value for our money. Afterwards, we took the “scenic” route back which led along the waterfront and stopped for one more rounds of drinks at fancy place. Santosh was great company, and we talked about traveling, life in Indonesia and his own plans for a really cool trip.

 

Day 91 – A question of style

We got of when it was still mostly dark!

We got of when it was still mostly dark!

The boat was early! We were mentally prepared for a lot, but not really for arriving at 5:30 am, ahead of schedule. Never mind, we got a moderate level of sleep out of this night and were ready to embark onto Flores in the first light of day. After a last brief interlude – before everyone could leave, an ambulance backed onto the ferry and the coffin got heaved into it by the assembled crowd. With a long salute of the ship, the ambulance rode off into dawn, and we close behind.

View over the bay at early morning

View over the bay at early morning

I have read about a series of guest houses 100 km to the east offering beach views and much needed tranquility and not too much in terms of sights on our way there. The road offered gorgeous views and was in good repair. That allowed us to arrive at our destination still early in the day at 8:30 am. The first place we went to, Lena House, had a bungalow at the beach available. Tired and exhausted we were more than happy to call it a day and booked ourselves in.

While the room was prepared, we got into a conversation with Andy, a globetrotter character originally from the UK, and his lovely partner from Java, where they currently reside. As we were talking, we discovered that we had an interesting thing in common. A while back I would have been surprised, but NZ and traveling really made us accept that small world encounters are more common than one would think. So it turned out that both of us have hosted Chris Schlatter, a motorcycle traveller from Switzerland, and his partner Francesca at different points of their trip.

Has been alive quite recent

Has been alive quite recent

After a lot of lounging and relaxing, we decided to follow a recommendation by them to have dinner at the guesthouse next door. As it turns out they would eventually join us, and later on we were joined by She Ye and Matt. The dinner turned out to be … exciting. No meat was available in the kitchen, so Andy set out on a quest to find us something nice to share. Nina was sorted, with an eggplant curry using the only remaining eggplants. When Andy came back, there was more than one raised eyebrow. He bought meat all right. In his hand on the bike was a feathered, white and very much alive chicken! Turns out he got the directions to the chicken farm and not to any sort of butcher. Well, the bird met its timely end right there behind the kitchen and we got a great shared dinner out of it. We washed it down with some home distilled arak, a sort of palm tree spirit.

Day 6 – Along the coast

The shoreline looking east

The shoreline looking east

In the morning, we realized that once again, we had camped in a swamp. After packing away the tent, we looked like pigs. But it promised to be a nice day so we started our riding.

We went along the coast towards Whakatane the whole morning. The White Island was visible on the horizon spitting white smoke into the sky. It looked rather impressive. The White Island is an active volcano just off the coast here. Small stops for photographs and more Gisborne oranges followed.

It turned out that Whakatane for lunch was a bit of a stretch goal. I am just not good at judging distances at all so this will be entirely Flo’s task from now on. 🙂

A cosy warm night, Sasha agreed

A cosy warm night, Sasha agreed

Late lunch turned into an even later start back on the road. By this point we were just looking for a place to set up camp tonight and a last refuel. About 5 meters behind the gas station, we waved to a couple next to their motorbike…and then Flo turned around to briefly talk to them. What started out as a roadside conversation turned into an invitation for the night.

Michael and Sandra have just simply been the greatest hosts. They welcomed us into their home, offer food and a bed and are just in general amazing people. The icing for me was obviously their cat, Sasha, hogging the wood fire oven all evening.