Tag Archives: Darwin

Day 69 – Getting ready to leave

Our last day in Darwin began. Slowly, we got up around 8am but Celia was already buzzing around, getting ready for work. So after breakfast, we had not much else to do than to pack up all our things that we had spread out over the last 14 days. While packing, we realized we still had a couple of items that we wanted to send to Germany but now it’s too late. The parcel is already on its way.

photo by woodleywonderworks

photo by woodleywonderworks

Everything fitted well into the panniers with room to spare (according to Flo). We had an eye out to pack smart so that we could easily get to things we still needed while storing tools safely in the panniers to not risk losing them at security.

I spent most of the rest of the day reading my book. Had the usual Sunday Skype call with my family while Celia arrived back and Katy made some yummy early evening snacks with cheese and olives.

Celia made a lovely, spicy dinner and we spent our last evening around the dinner table with everyone except Tig. Thank you so much Celia, Tig, Liz and Borja that we were lucky enough to meet you and had an excellent stay at your place with your amazing company and a whole lot of good food. Hope to meet you on the road or in Europe.

Day 68 – The Fault in our Stars

The plan for this weekend was to lay low and relax and gather as much calm ans strength as we could before what ever would expect us from here on out in the developing world. That, and the thought of the $60 it would cost, was the reason for denying the invitation to tag along to a rodeo that Celia ans some friends were going to.

Celia did manage to break us out of our sloth-like state for a while though: First, we went out to another local market for lunch. Nina and I had Lebanese food and a nice tropical smoothie. Nina got her falafel wrap freshly done just before they closed up, much to the dismay of the stall owners daughter, who was put to work.

After that, we extend our little excursion for some sight seeing to east point. Once again, Celia has proven to be an amazing host. This time as a patient tour guide putting up with my “sign fetish”.

That night we were alone in the house and thought to make use of the large flat screen and watch one of the movies we have been carrying around since day 1. We ended up going for two in the end, because The Fault in our Stars left us so sad that it needed some Brave to get us ready for bed without sobbing in a fetal position.

The Fault in our Stars is the first movie based on a book of the same name by John Green. We have been following and thoroughly enjoying the youtube work of John and Hank Green for a while now.  I especially enjoyed the Crash Course series, and by now we consider ourselves Nerdfighter. The movie was great, but so different that it is almost hard to believe it is of American make. Have a look at the trailer, but be warned: This is some seriously sad stuff.

Day 67 – Quiet days

With one of our hosts gone and Celia working like the most impressive worker bee, not much was going on in the house. Before disappearing for the rest of the day to work though, Celia managed to convince me to join in one more time for a walk through the mangrove to the beach. Nina was supremely captivated by her newest book that she passed on the opportunity.

CC-BY-SA 3.0 by Peter Ellis

CC-BY-SA 3.0 by Peter Ellis

The beach was again teaming with life, but to my astonishment, a whole different set of critters showed up this time around. Maybe it was about the different point in the tidal cycle or the progressing buildup towards the wet. Whatever it was, I thoroughly enjoyed watching thousands of soldier crabs give the beach these flecks of bluish purple. I even dared to join the others in exploring barefoot, after covering me head to tow with mud flung up from my jandals the last time around.

To get everything ready for the post office in the afternoon, I spend the afternoon copying. We took about 2500 photos in Australia, coming to roughly 64 GB of data (I want to keep the RAWs

Cooling down every once in a while

Cooling down every once in a while

for later use). There was no internet connection fast enough in sight to upload this in any way quick enough to our Amazon Cloud storage, so I chose a different tactic for the backup this time. We carry a 1TB hard drive as the primary storage, and usually whatever gets uploaded into the cloud then gets deleted from our active 64 GB SD card. With uploading out of the question, we chose to use cheap USB flash drives and mail the backup to Germany for uploading there.

Beyond the flash drives and some post cards, we needed to send another box home. Since Nina’s Companero suit is finally complete, her old pants needed to go. Some paperwork and even the much treasured Coleman Sleeping bag fitted in as well. The price would be the same, so I was quite happy that we were able to keep the sleeping bag – it for me symbolized a much needed turning point for the better on our trip and I feared that we had to just give it away.

Day 66 – Tying loose ends

MOAM

MOAM

We took the bus into the inner city today to get some more things off our to do list. Since we didn’t manage to get ready earlier (and I am reading a book that I can hardy put down), we were basically in town for lunch. Despite taking a sandwich, Flo convinced me that this will be our last chance to eat out in Darwin. So we ended up in this lovely cafe “Four Birds” and I couldn’t help myself but buy one of their amazing looking muffins. The lady at the counter told me it was chocolate with peanuts, peanut butter and “all the other good things” so yeah. Very, very filling, more like a small cake in itself than a muffin really. Afterwards, a French lady for the kitchen came out to talk to me because it was the first time she had baked these and she wanted to hear a customer’s opinion on them. 🙂

wohoo ... thousands. Wait, IDR

wohoo … thousands. Wait, IDR

Enough food talk. Flo then went to change our Australian money into Indonesian rupiahs and man, we got so many of them. As a rough guide, 10.000 rupiahs is one dollar. All money changers are vultures though, so we lost 17ct to the dollar compared with the current market rate. Imagine you would change $100 into a foreign currency and back again, you are left with roughly $70! So where ever possible we will try to get money from ATMs withdrawn straight from our credit card.

We then also proceeded to the Indonesian embassy and collected our passports with the Indonesian visa in it. Most tourists don’t need to apply for a visa before entering Indonesia but we are special. Mainly because we wanted a 60 days visa instead of the 30 days one and also because we are entering through the land border from East Timor. This means we are now set for the next two countries and the next two months. 🙂

Back in Coconut Grove, Flo decided to make nachos as a goodbye dinner: Tig caught a plane to Melbourne late at night so we had to say goodbye to him already. :S

Day 63 – Last vaccination

Chilling outside after the vaccination

Chilling outside after the vaccination

After our very tight vaccination schedule in Wellington, Flo and I were missing only the second Hep A shot. It wasn’t required for this journey but if you have the second shot within 6 to 12 months of the first, you achieve what is basically “lifetime immunity”.

The shot itself was better than we dreaded (the Vivaxim shot was so painful) so maybe the typhoid component of the Vivaxim makes it burn so much and not the Hep A part. Afterwards, I felt a bit drained of energy so I didn’t do much. Flo, however, looked for maps and downloaded our GPS track for Australia and stuff.

It was quite loud on the roof...

It was quite loud on the roof…

The evening was exciting as we had proper tropical rain and all the frogs came out to rejoice. 🙂

Day 61 – 2nd Month-y-versary

Taadaaaa! Second Month-y-versary. Man, time flies (except when you are waiting on the bike).

We hadn’t planned anything special for today but were super lucky because Liz and Borja asked us if we wanted to tag along to Berry Springs. These springs are a bit outside of Darwin, maybe 50 or 60km. Without a bike we have no easy means of making it there. So of course, we said yes.

On the way there, Liz was reading up on the Territory Wildlife Park which is around the corner. The feeding of the stingrays was announced to be at 1.10pm and she really wanted to go. Again, we tagged along and so all four of us went into the wildlife park.

A train thingy! Tshoo-tshoo!

A train thingy! Tshoo-tshoo!

A little train is going around in circles in the park, transporting visitors to different stops with different attractions. Flo and I hopped out at the Monsoon Forest Walk to attend the Forest Frenzy at 1.10pm while Liz and Borja went to see the stingrays. We decided to meet up again at 2pm on the Flight Deck to watch the Nature Display of the big, predatory birds.

The Monsoon Walk itself was lovely and we saw quite some birds. The first station was a simulation of the rain during the wet season. For the birds on display here, I really liked the crimson finches which were intensely red in the sunshine. Some of them were having a bath when we watched. So cute! It also was the first time we managed to see a kingfisher. We, then, had to hurry a bit to make it to the feeding.

"I am a tree" ... "You can't see me"

“I am a tree” … “You can’t see me”

Many pigeons and lorakeets attended the feeding as well as black birds that would swoop down to catch meal worms out of the air (they were being thrown…obviously, worms can’t fly). My absolute favorite bird was Mumbles, the tawny frogmouth. She was sitting only inches away from us, waiting until it was her turn to be shown and explained. She’s a bit of an odd case as she’s a runt and has been trained to be okay with daylight despite being a nocturnal bird. The only defense mechanism that frogmouths employ is to try and look like a branch from above. Mumbles demonstrates this nicely.

Flo and I decided to walk to the flight deck instead of taking the train. This lead to us having to hurry a bit which in turn caused all my insect bites to itch like hell in the sun and heat. I was very much looking forward to cooling them later on.

Ranger and a cool owl

Ranger and a cool owl

The flight show was amazing. The ranger showed us a buzzard that is smart enough to use stones to crack open emu eggs, a large stork that lives in the Northern Territory and a bird of prey that emerges itself into water in order to catch fish. So awesome.

Afterwards, we visited the nocturnal house where we saw another tawny frogmouth, a small nocturnal wallaby and other very cute looking animals. The bats had just been fed and were hanging next to their fruit kebabs.

*lol* The crocodile was very passive even in the face of a small child

*lol* The crocodile was very passive even in the face of a small child

Another stop at the aquarium to check out the crocodiles and fish before heading off to Berry Springs. Getting there, the springs turned out to be a bit of a disappointment and we were glad that we had spent so much time in the wildlife park. One of the pools was closed off to the public, the other one was quite full and the water rather murky so that snorkeling didn’t make much sense and we had just one swim before heading back to Darwin. The other not so nice thing was a health warning about the water, so you weren’t supposed to put your head into it.

Back at Darwin, Celia and Tig had a little pool party going which we joined after a short nap.

 

Day 59 – Bye bye Rocinante

Workshop impressions, all packed and ready to go.

Workshop impressions, all packed and ready to go.

All the maintenance on the bike had been done so packing was the only thing that was left to do. We bought a lot of expensive gear in Australia for which we are trying to get a GST refund. However, this means that we will need to show the gear at the airport and cannot ship it with the bike. In the end, three bags were strapped to the bike while the panniers and our clothes stayed with us.

Flo set out to get the carnet stamped and drop the bike off at the shipping agency. It didn’t take long until Tig and I could pick him up. On the way back, we stopped at a motorcycle shop and I got to buy new summer gloves. Using the leather gloves for winter only makes a very limited amount of sense in this weather so I am really happy with the purchase.

It's been a while since we have seen "so many" people gather ... ahh, NZ

It’s been a while since we have seen “so many” people gather … ahh, NZ

It was Flo’s first afternoon off since we arrived in Darwin. We, quite lazily, had a look at the public transport system for the first time as we wanted to go to the Mindil Beach Sunset Market in the evening. In the end, we hitched a ride with Liz and Borha instead, though.

The market is as cool as advertised, with us just arriving in time for the picture perfect red sun plunging into the sea beyond the namesake Mindil Beach. And what do you know, just after sunset we ran into Frederike and Lars again, who we’d almost expected to be on their way home already.

So we decided to browse the market together. Everyone found something they’d enjoy sooner or later. Nina got the recommended Borneo fusion veggie combo and a chocolate mud cake muffin, I got my croco sandwich and Frederike got an necklace souvenir that she was very happy with.

Like Christmas market at home

Like Christmas market at home

After two hours or so, we headed ‘downtown’ to get a beer for the guys. Having a beer together in Darwin had been discussed previously and now was the perfect time to make it happen.

I, unfortunately, was very tired but had fun anyway. Coke got be back on my feet for a while though. It was a fun evening with a bit of interruption of the adjacent 18th birthday party. 🙂 Flo and I then took a taxi home as the buses stopped running before 11pm at night. Frederike and Lars had one more day in Darwin left before flying home. Maybe, just maybe, we might see them again on the road somewhere. Maybe even in NZ.

This post is a combined effort of Flo and me. I apologize for the confusing jumps in the use of ‘I’. You are all smart people and will figure it out. 🙂

Day 57 – Motorbike Maintenance

It was quite a relaxing day for me as Flo had to do maintenance on the bike for basically the whole day. This is something I just have no clue about.

Flo struggling with the oil filter

Flo struggling with the oil filter

After the first 10.000km on this trip and 44.000km on the bike in total, it was time for an inspection and the exchange of some parts that wear. Flo might write the more technical post but he doesn’t have the time so here is what I saw:

The bike had to be taken apart quite thoroughly. The air filters were changed, the radiators were checked and cleaned as far as possible. The spark plugs (don’t ask me what that is) need to be changed, the oil was drained and changed. In the afternoon, the rear tire came off and new brake pads were put in. Lots of things were cleaned and the crash bars were even sprayed again in rust-preventing matt black.

Flo was very happy that he could use Tig’s garage and

Preparing the antipasti platter

Preparing the antipasti platter

tools as it made things much easier. It still took forever though and it is not quite finished yet.

To say thank you for giving us a bed and a garage, we also decided to cook for the flat tonight. Flo made gazpacho which was lovely in the hot climate of Darwin.

 

 

 

Day 56 – Arriving in Darwin

It was a weird feeling when we packed the tent for the last time for a while. Given that we camped for an estimated 25 nights in a row, Flo and I were mighty tired of packing up every morning. On the other hand, it has been our home for the last month and maybe even a bit longer. We will probably not use it through all of Asia as rooms are cheap enough to not bother with camping.

This little fellow lived in the tap

This little fellow lived in the tap

After packing and a short fright when I flushed a frog out of the tap onto my water bottle, we left Mary River National Park and headed for Darwin. For the first part of the route, Flo tried to read up on attractions along the road but then we both decided that we could do with half a day in a city and thus headed straight for Darwin.

The only stop we took afterwards was crossing the Adelaide River and seeing a giant jumping crocodile statue. It is at the place where all the “jumping crocodile tours” leave from.

The similarities...perplexing :P

The similarities…perplexing 😛

Arriving in Darwin at lunch time, we both enjoyed being in a city again. There is food everywhere and supermarkets with everything rather than a road side gas station that mainly stocks cans and tins. So we had a lovely lunch and were prepared to spend half a day while waiting for our hosts to come home when Flo checked his mails and we got the information that Tig was off work for the day and we could just drive to Coconut Grove right after lunch.

Celia and Tig’s house (it is more than a flat) is very tropical. No closed walls, slatted windows (it makes sense here) and one story up in the foliage of the palm trees. Getting out of our gear, we had a frantic hour or two. Flo started to organize shipping the bike and the information that we kept getting was quite different to what we got on the road. At some point the option was shipping today or waiting till October 23rd so we rushed around to maybe make it in a couple of hours. Luckily, all of this cleared up at some point and the cut off for the ship is now on Thursday as we had expected.

Tig gave Flo a ride to the motorbike shop to pick up all the parts that he had ordered and then we had a lovely afternoon/evening in the shade. Our hosts then invited us for dinner and cooked a delicious meal for us. We were joined by their flatmates Liz and her partner. It was Liz’s birthday so lovely Celia had bought champagne and we had a merry first night in Darwin.