Tag Archives: Chiang Mai

Day 229 – Pain & gain

Dream team reunited =P

Dream team reunited =P

It was a normal overtaking, maybe a bit energetic, but nothing too brash. But now the next turn was coming closer fast … closer and closer, until there was no more road. Two wheels flying over the grassy shoulder down to the now overgrown drainage channel on the side of the road. Lucky that there are very few guard rails or posts on the side of Thai roads. Still going maybe 40 km/h, clutching madly at the handlebars, bouncing wildly … and then the other rider made it! He was so darn lucky to make it out of this one in one piece. We? No, we were going at a super relaxed pace, stopped and checked if he was ok. He was.

So, we were on the road again. After the second break in two weeks, seeing three different hospitals in the process, I could wait no longer. Yes, two more days probably would have been the cautious route, but I so desperately wanted to get back on the road again. I was sure getting this message hammered home as a constant low level pain throbbing in my arm. Yet, I was still happy. The pain was manageable with regular breaks. It would be always the same – good for 15 minutes or so and then slowly starting to tense up and sting, until almost stiff. Like a super slow motion cramp. I think that probably circulation in the arm muscles is not yet fully restored and the breaks “loosened up” everything enough to get the blood flowing again.

Back on the road!

Back on the road!

But these roads! We went on the Mae Hong Son loop, a legendary motorcycle trip of 600 km starting and ending in Chiang Mai. We will do all of it but the boring last 85 km back to Chiang Mai, of course not today. Today’s goal is Mae Hong Son, a little provincial town near the Myanmar border. An easy 235 km day – and we got onto the road reasonably early. The road was just marvelous. Perfect seal and turn after turn after turn. I have missed this.

Sadly the scenery could not quite hold up, especially with the ever increasing haze. Mae Hong Son district is infamous for the amount of haze during the late dry season due to the locals burning their fields and additional forest fires. Around Mae Hong Son, visibility got down to less than 300m at times. At least it shielded us from the sun a little bit. The day was scorching hot – 34.5°C at 9 am and going steadily up.

Giant overland vehicle...it comes with a motorcycle in the back and a tank the size of our motorcycle plus ourselves

Giant overland vehicle…it comes with a motorcycle in the back and a tank the size of our motorcycle plus ourselves

When it was time for our first break after about 60 km, we spotted a huge white truck with the unmistakable signs of overander-dom to it. When we pulled over to have a look we immediately got welcomed and invited to a cup of coffee by Maéva, Rémi and their visiting dad. The content of their tank weights more than our bike (including us) and they carry a 400cc motorcycle. Still, we are not jealous. We had a nice chat and got back on the road after exchanging contact details and good wishes.

We had lunch at Pai, the half way point of the day. Initially we though we might stay here if the arm is not up for more, but in the end we were keen on leaving again. Pai evolved from a 5 hut village to backpacker central, with not really much to go for other than the surrounding national parks. So the town itself is like a copy and past of any other backpacker hub in Southeast Asia, sans the main attraction that usually goes with these.

Evening haze over the town when we were on our way to the local market

Evening haze over the town when we were on our way to the local market

Mae Hong Son was more up our alley. We found an affordable room within walking distance of the market. Dinner was nice and cheap that way, and we got a load of fresh and sweet strawberries for under $1. We even managed to find a cozy spot to finish season 3 of the the Great British Bake-Off. The wrong baker won, though … 😉

 

 

 

 

 

Day 228 – Good-byes

He is checking out our guesthouse ...

He is checking out our guesthouse …

Our last day in Chiang Mai had come. At this point, I wasn’t keen on debating with Flo anymore if he could ride the bike or not. On Monday, the doctor had told him that his recovery will take another week. Leaving Chiang Mai on Saturday seems close enough so he got his wish.

This made today our last day in this city. Walking towards Angel’s Secret to repeat our amazing brunch experience from a couple of day’s ago, we spotted Chantal’s bike all packed up and ready to leave. So we waited around for a chance to say good-bye to her before she rides off towards Myanmar as well.

Chantal's chook chaser, fully loaded in its current setup.

Chantal’s chook chaser, fully loaded in its current setup.

In the end, we spoke for quite a while (she was waiting on another person to show up for an interview) about where we had been and where we will go, sponsorship and meeting up again in Europe. Hugs, waves and a “we’ll stay in touch” later, we were the only ones left in Chiang Mai.

Angel’s Secret was really nice again. Food can just be so yummy. *grin* We decided that food really is the best way of spending our last day here as Chiang Mai is full of good food.

Thus, after an afternoon spent writing for the blog and getting the GPS track for Laos ready, we celebrated with more food in the evening. New Delhi, the Indian restaurant we had been to before, was visited again. Their food is delicious. I actually took a photo of the sign this time…somehow I got the feeling that they have to battle against a bad reputation of Indian food. The sign basically states that almost everything is home-made and you are welcome to complain if the food is not up to your standards. But the food is sooooooo good.

Day 226 – Traveler’s meeting

Epic food hipster shot - it was tasty, too.

Epic food hipster shot – it was tasty, too.

It was late yesterday…a nice long sleep-in was in order. Around 11am, we actually left the guesthouse in search of breakfast. Since it was so late already, we had the vague plan of making this breakfast more of a brunch and save on lunch. Arriving at Angel’s Secret, they had an extensive brunch menu and thus, brunch it was. Amazing brunch to be honest. We had everything from a big tea pot with apricot cookies to a French chocolate croissant, muesli with fresh fruit and yogurt to a big hearty egg sandwich. So yummy!

However, I didn’t feel too well today. Nothing serious, just likely that I caught Flo’s runny nose. So back to bed for more sleep and some home-y you tube shows.

In the evening, a big traveler’s meeting happened. Leonie, Peter and Chantal were still in town who we wanted to meet anyway and Chantal met more overlanders at her hostel who were happy to meet up, too. In the end, there were nine of us: Pia, Pascal, Frederic, Raphael, Chantal, Peter, Leonie, Flo and I. Quite the big gathering actually. First, I wasn’t sure if I’d be up for it but in the end, I was super happy that I went even if I left early to go back to bed. It was a nice meeting and our last chance to see off Amsterdam to Anywhere who will be leaving for Myanmar tomorrow.

Day 225 – Reunions

One of the great inspiring websites for motorcycle travelers

One of the great inspiring websites for motorcycle travelers

The days get pretty same-y after a while. We have either done the homework we had or can not do it until I am healed up a bit more. That, still, is like watching rice grow. Agonizingly slow (yes, I am aware that one week is not a long time for an injury and it could be much worse – I am just not that good with waiting). I spent a little bit of time following up another potential option for shipping the bike, thanks to Peter.

Luckily, there are two things to keep us in good spirit: Good food and good company. The first one came in the form of delicious Indian food. The naan was the best we had in a long while. Once again the Lonely Planet held true, and judging by the long list for Chiang Mai, we won’t have to settle for bad food until we leave. Ok, well, we did actually, trying to grab a cheap bite before meeting up that night … but that was our own fault. 😉

Leonie and Peter - Amsterdam to Anywhere

Leonie and Peter – Amsterdam to Anywhere

That evening, we were set to see Leonie and  Peter again – plus Chantal (Chick on a chook chaser), who was on her way to Chiang Mai that day. We have last seen her in Dili and followed her trip updates on Facebook and her blog since. Once more, it was a lovely evening. We talked to Leonie and Peter for an hour or so about this, that and everything before Chantal joined us. It is amazing every time how often we meet fellow travelers and it just ‘clicks’ and after only a handful of hours you end up talking about real heartfelt stuff that one normally only shares with good friends.

Chantal arrived and filled us in on her latest exploits. So we hung around, nursing the one

Chantal - Chick on the chook chaser

Chantal – Chick on the chook chaser

drink we all had budget for until we got finally booted out near midnight again. Best of all, we did not even have to say goodbye, since we are all staying another day in town!

Day 224 – All in one day

Tuk-Tuk to the hospital

Tuk-Tuk to the hospital

We had organized breakfast last night already, with chocolate croissants waiting for us in the morning. Thus, we were ready to go to the hospital before 8am. Flo called both possible hospitals beforehand, ruled out the one where the people on the phone didn’t speak English and decided that we would take a tuk-tuk taxi to the McCormick hospital.

Arriving there, we were flabbergasted by the difference: This was a proper hospital. Gigantic compared to anything facility we had been to lately. However, size and professionalism of a hospital come with another western achievement…bureaucracy. Thus, the first thing to do was register as a patient. Which turned out to be not that straight-forward without a Thai insurance. Despite having our Insurance Certificate with us and despite having our insurance give the hospital a guarantee of payment via email, it was not enough. A THAI insurance needs to give this guarantee, not an international one. So we ended up paying for the treatment upfront and will claim back the expenses.

Finally, a modern hospital

Finally, a modern hospital

With all the bureaucracy b******t out of the way, Flo had a first examination. The doctor spoke English quite well, wrote an accident report and proceeded to test Flo’s arm. The elbow was much better already but the rotation of the arm resulted in screaming and Flo giving it a 9 out of 10 on a pain scala. Just to be absolutely sure, the doctor ordered another x-ray, this time of the forearm. The x-ray was digital this time, of a much better quality and ready in no time. Still, nothing is broken. The doctor suggested about another week for recovery and recommended physical therapy to help the process. So I hung around the hospital some more while Flo had physical therapy. I have to say, he was not quite convinced afterwards which bugged me a bit as I know how effective it can be. I haven’t worked in a physio therapy office for four years without picking up one or two things. At least, the therapist was able to give a slightly better diagnosis: The elbow is sprained while the muscle between the two forearm bones is strained.

The truly amazing Peter and Leonie from Amsterdam to ... Anywhere

The truly amazing Peter and Leonie from Amsterdam to … Anywhere

Afterwards, we had lunch and relaxed for a while before having some cake and coffee in the late afternoon. Then, we met up with Leonie and Peter of Amsterdam to Anywhere. They had contacted us a while back but we hadn’t managed to actually meet yet. So we had this lovely evening with food from a local market and then a drink at the Rider’s corner. Flo tells me that the Rider’s Corner in Chiang Mai is one of THE places to meet overlanders, so that was fitting. We clicked pretty straight away so that great conversation ensued. All of us are going to be in town for a while longer so we made tomorrow evening another date. 🙂

 

 

 

Day 223 – Pick up line

The owner of our guesthouse organised a pick-up truck to drive us to the border himself

The owner of our guesthouse organised a pick-up truck to drive us to the border himself

Well, here we were. Ready to load the bike onto the back of our guesthouse owner’s Hillux and to leave Laos for good. It hurts – also quite literally, which works as a constant reminder of the rational to leave via truck. Still, skipping almost 400 km, or at least traveling by other means, feels like a little defeat.

We even had to ask Marten to interrupt his morning routine to come help load up the bike. Everything was tied down pretty solid, I got the money from an ATM and off we went. The Hillux was a good mode of transport, however, comfortable back seats meant that the hatch didn’t fully close while Rocinante was back there.

Saying good-bye to the guesthouse owner at the border

Saying good-bye to the guesthouse owner at the border

The road towards the border town of Houay Xai was a lovely mountain road, if in a bit of disrepair in places. The first two rough bits still let our heads snap round to the back, but Rocinante was tied down quite well. Only 191 km, but the windy road and careful driving meant that it took quite a while. Including a brief coffee break on the roadside, the whole leg took a bit more than three hours.

Getting the bike down at the border was exhausting in the heat. We did bring a ramp but three people, Flo with his arm in a sling, weren’t enough for a safe affair. When I went to recruit two “strong” guys to help unload, all four guys around felt that could only mean them. All the better. 🙂

Flo had to ride for the bit in between borders

Flo had to ride for the bit in between borders

The border posts are on opposite sides of the Mekong river, connected by Friendship Bridge number 4. This meant that I did have to ride the bike, at least for the 2 km between borders. A fact that got Nina pretty nervous to begin with. I took an Ibuprofen and bit down the pain.

Border crossing was a smooth affair, if a bit tiresome. Heaps of bureaucratic procedure meant that we would need the whole of two hours. Nina had to fill out all the forms as I simply cannot write with my left hand. All the while, our pickup was waiting only 10 meters away, just in sight.

Our pick-up on the left...with no ramp

Our pick-up on the left…with no ramp

Said pickup was provided by a young couple and their Isuzu truck.  They did not bring any kind of ramp or recruited help, so getting the bike up took another moment. Some workmen came past and we used a pile of dirt on a building site nearby as a ramp. At least the bed of the truck was long enough to get all of the bike in and close the latch. On the downside, the rear seats in the cabin had that much less space and would rather qualify as “emergency seats”. Ah well.

Again, no ramp but lots of manpower this time

Again, no ramp but lots of manpower this time

In the end, it took us another 5 hours to reach our pre-booked guesthouse in Chiang Mai. All we had to eat since breakfast were a round of snacks from a 7eleven. The guesthouse sure lived up to its reviews. The staff was supremely helpful and eager. They lifted the bike of the back even without a ramp and carried all our stuff up to the third floor to our lovely room.

It was late, 8 pm by the time we shambled out one last time in search for food. The big weekend market was on, so we walked all the way to the center of the old town for some nice street food treats and an interesting chat with a pair of German expats.