Tag Archives: Bangkok

Day 235 – Get a move on

Such a lovely, cozy room

Such a lovely, cozy room

It is just too hot to do anything. Yesterday, before going out for dinner, we had a look at a guesthouse we saw on Agoda for the remaining two nights. Our current hotel was still overpriced and underwhelming and not even the WiFi was that good. The place we looked at was lovely – it had shared bathrooms, but those were spotless and just around the corner. The room itself was perfect for us. Cute, with AC and a flat screen TV, and most of all a very comfy bed. So we booked in till Sunday.

The most touristy street we found

The most touristy street we found

Which leads us to today, the move day. We stuck out in the old room until it was check out time, shouldered our few bags and walked the 15 minutes to the new guesthouse. That was pretty much our day, really. After the slightly stressful time with dropping off the bike and the sightseeing yesterday; today, we just chilled. After Nina took a nap, we put the flat screen to good use with season 4 of the Great British Bake Off (no judging!).

Food wise, we were quite conservative. For lunch, we walked a bit further out to avoid westernised stuff and found a cool little stall at a street corner selling food kind of Padang style with mix and match rice and ready-made dishes. Dinner was even more conservative, with another trip to last night’s Israeli place.

Day 234 – Museum of Siam

Modern museum, modern picto-dudes

Modern museum, modern picto-dudes

After having spent all of yesterday on putting Rocinante in her cage, today we wanted to see something of Bangkok. I’m kinda through with temples and royal palaces and Flo expressed similar feelings so the Museum of Siam it was.

The tuk-tuk driver was a bit of a gangster getting way too much money out of us “tourists” for a rather short ride. Arriving at 9.55am at the museum, we waited for 5min for it to open and were the first people in. Which turned out to be a blessing as we got to see the short movie and about two rooms before we were steam-rolled by school classes. There seemed to be about 5 classes on our heels. At one point, we decided to let them pass and stay back a bit but then more classes appeared and the noise level just couldn’t be helped.

Love the wall paper. A classic!

Love the wall paper. A classic!

The Museum of Siam is quite new and interactive which made it a fun museum to experience. The English translations are good, giving you insights into the history of Siam, which was the countries name before becoming the nation state of Thailand. To be honest, Flo and I loved the “Thailand in the 70s” part the most as it was perfect for taking hilarious pictures.

After two hours, we left highly entertained to find some food. As the tuk-tuk fare here had cost us 150 baht (NZ$6), we decided to take our time and walk back to the hotel thus also seeing more of Bangkok. In theory, the plan was perfect and it also worked well in practice apart for the sun scorching down on our every step.

The open wasteland with the palace in the back

The open wasteland with the palace in the back

So we stuck to the shade of trees as long as they were available and were dearly disappointed when we crossed a “park” that consisted entirely of scorched brown grass. Makes no sense to have such an exposed space in this climate. That needs to be reserved for places like London where you happy about every ray of sunshine. =P

Cooling down again took some hours as there was no pool available and we headed out again for dinner this time to an Israeli restaurant. Getting some different flavours was so delicious! We shared a plate of falafel, hummus, chips and salad with a side of tzatziki with pita bread. So, so good! The tzatziki plate looked like it had been washed once we were through our meal…Flo made sure to get even the tiniest rest.

Flo actually decided to use some of the evening time to catch up with his family. Quite late, we then skyped with Lina and Michael as we’re gonna visit them soon after landing in Dubai. So exciting! Haven’t seen them in aaaaaaaaages (2 ½ years).

Day 233 – Tiger Cage

Arriving early to stay for the whole process

Arriving early to stay for the whole process

The warehouse would open at 8.30 am and was only 3 km away as the crow flies, giving us ample time to pack and have a leisurely breakfast. There was a beautiful grey cat with sky blue eyes living at the resort, and she joined us in the hope for scraps. Only one of us was disappointed in the end 😉

Both our resort and the warehouse were at the eastern edge of town, where rice paddies and wooden huts mix with motorways and industrial development on a lot by lot basis. Luckily the GPS was un-phased and we had the coordinates for the place. I sometimes wonder how people found anything in places like this before good maps and GPS …

Battery has to be disconnected. Also note that the wind screen and mirrors are gone

Battery has to be disconnected. Also note that the wind screen and mirrors are gone

At the packing place, people were already busy at work. I was determined to stick around and make sure the box ends up as small as possible, after the disaster in Auckland. Since it was only for sea freight then, the enormous box only lost us about $100, but this time the story was different. I knew how small the bike could be packed from the crate I built for when we shipped the bike to New Zealand. The difference between these two crates would be $1500 NZ in air freight fares, so I was not about to leave that to chance.

Sure enough, the first suggestion from the master crate maker was comically huge – coming out at a volume weight of 550 kg. So with some pointing and an old picture of the bike in the crate I made, he agreed to these measurements – resulting in a crate with 375 kg volume weight.

Third step: Secure the front fork so the bike can't move

Third step: Secure the front fork so the bike can’t move

We had to wait a little while for the guys to finish an urgent order of some 15 pallets – all build from scratch – to finish. That gave us just enough time to finish the paperwork. But soon enough, the base pallet was assembled and I joined the guys in getting the bike in place. Getting the front wheel out was a bit of a mission without a jack, but it worked. Some re-positioning and the bike was being secured on the pallet.

Next step was getting all the other bits and bobs on and shrink wrap it all up like Spiderman’s wildest dream. While taking some pictures, we realised just in time that we had left the surface in one pannier. I rushed down and saved it from the clutches of the wrapper just in time.

The final product: Rocinante in a tiger cage

The final product: Rocinante in a tiger cage

The crate was nice and solid in the end and came in at about 1/4 of what we payed in New Zealand. Then again, also came with an annoyance in the end. Once everything was done, master crater Bob realized that he forgot to take the pallet itself into account and the box ended up 10 cm higher. I once again scold myself for being respectful and nice and suffering the fool in the end. So here we are, with a crate slightly bigger than the one I build myself – costing us another 200 euro in freight more than it needed to.

The whole affair took us less than 2.5 hrs. By 11 am, we were in a taxi on our way to central Bangkok. We even got to use the cursed elevated highways for the meager fee of 75 baht – since this time we were in a vehicle with the “appropriate” number of wheels.

Expensive but moldy "superior" room in central Bangkok...disappointed

Expensive but moldy “superior” room in central Bangkok…disappointed

Our hotel ended up as quite the disappointment. We chose a recommendation from the lonely planet, and it was not cheap (by our standards). Even though the room was big, it was damp, moldy and smelly and overall a lot tourist trappy in its feel.

For lunch, we went to a recommended vegetarian Thai restaurant, but were a bit disappointed again. The area here, near Khao San Road, is called a “backpacker ghetto” by some and we are learning why. Here more than anywhere else, we get the feeling that a lot of the economy is based on whities fresh from the plane with no idea of what things should cost. It is not uncommon that you can get a pad thai of similar quality for 40 bath in one place and 140 baht next door.

One of Bangkok's canals in evening light during our food hunt

One of Bangkok’s canals in evening light during our food hunt

That night we also went through the ordeal of buying flights for Dubai. Initially we wanted to leave on Saturday, but there were no good deals available any more. Only Emirates flies directly and their prices are about 50% more than any other one stop would cost. We ended up with a good compromise with an overnight flight Sunday to Monday via Muscat that was about 10% more than the cheapest flights but would save us one night in a hotel. But just when we wanted to buy it, it was not available anymore! From previous experiences I knew that researching flights can lead to increased prices or even offers being gone entirely because every site locks the flight for 15 minutes or so to complete your booking. Looking at more than one site at once can lead to gridlock. Lucky for us, just waiting an hour to release all the reservation did the trick and we were able to book. Dubai, here we come!

Day 232 – Packing in Bangkok

2 lanes frontage road, 4 lane highway and 3 lane tollway (overhead) all going the same way ...

2 lanes frontage road, 4 lane highway and 3 lane tollway (overhead) all going the same way …

A whole day to get into Bangkok. Not to be bad with just 250km to go. Unfortunately, it was 38 degrees again which felt like closer to 50 degrees on the motorway in the scorching sun. Also, getting into Bangkok is simply a nightmare. Motorbikes are not allowed on the proper motorways where you pay toll so instead, we were going on the same road as all the trucks and scooters. This meant jam-like conditions starting as far off as 60km before Bangkok. In the heat. The whole ride was just exhausting, nothing more. At some point we stopped at a 7eleven and hid inside just to get our core temperature down again in an ac’d space. BUT, even the worst traffic moves and we arrived at our accommodation at lunch time.

Dropping all the luggage into the room, we just headed out again to have lunch and acquire some form of dinner as our room was out in the sticks, close to nothing but the warehouse where we needed to go tomorrow. We found a local market for some veggie noodle soup and a 7eleven with the option of toast and cheese. All set for the rest of the day, we went back.

Yeay and ney piles will soon be forming.

Yeay and ney piles will soon be forming.

Cooling down was the most urgent point on our to do list now. Luckily, a pool was available (in the shade) which provided us with ample opportunity. Afterwards, we unpacked everything we own, checked if we could take it on a flight or had to chuck it out and repacked. It sounds like a neat package in one sentence but it actually was a lot of work. The spray cans of WD40 and chain oil had to go (flammable) so Flo actually cleaned the bike before applying both for the last time. We updated the route on the world map on our pannier, put the paperwork, clothes and toiletries to the side as we will need this here in Bangkok with us for the next couple of days and packed the rest.

In between, we had a lovely afternoon break patting the resident cats and figuring out that hiding inside our room is really the most comfortable option.

Day 181 – Red Baron

We learnt from past mistakes and DID NOT have breakfast in the overpriced restaurant, instead having Nutella toast in our room. Flo was extremely nervous, wanting to find the right spare part so badly that I started to worry a bit. What if we couldn’t find it?

You are our only hope, Red Baron!

You are our only hope, Red Baron!

But we were lucky to begin with. The Red Baron opens at 10am, even on a Sunday. Wednesday is the day that they are closed. Not knowing how Bangkok traffic will be like this morning, we started early and arrived at 9.45am.

The store opened at exactly 10am. The guy at the counter had us bring the bike around to the workshop so that the mechanics could have a look and then went in search of reg/recs for big bikes. In the end, he found two new ones. Flo was over the moon!

Mechanic at work

Mechanic at work

However, again, learning from past mistakes, we didn’t want to commit to one of them before we had Jonathan’s confirmation that they would really do the job. This time, the parts were also VERY expensive. So we wrote Jonathan on WhatsApp about the specifics of the two reg/recs and then waited. Chances were good that Jonathan worked even on a Sunday so we would get a reply in his lunch break, most likely. It was 11.30am already so we decided to go for an early lunch ourselves while waiting for the reply.

And yes, Jonathan’s reply came during lunch: One of the reg/recs was a go! It could handle up to 50 ampere while Rocinante’s original part was up to 35 ampere so we would even upgrade! Nearly jumping for joy we made our way back to the Red Baron. The mechanic didn’t share our enthusiasm. The part was not for a different Honda bike so while it worked ampere-wise, the connectors had to be carefully made to fit. Very reluctantly, he went to work.

Two fried reg/recs make for a sad Flo

Two fried reg/recs make for a sad Flo

Changing the reg/rec was a very good thing but problems with that part often also effect the battery and vice versa. The battery had been drained twice now through our efforts to get Rocinante back to Bangkok so changing the battery as well is a good idea. If the battery had been damaged, it could have effected the new reg/rec and we really, really didn’t want that. Because of the new battery, we had to wait two hours for it to be charged before being able to take off. With a fully functional bike! The only down side is that “big bikes” are luxury items in Thailand which means that a special luxury tax of 60% applies to them, as well as to all spare parts. The reg/rec cost us about NZ$500 and the new battery another NZ$200. Having the bike fixed felt amazing…the cost with our financial background not too much.

All is well that ends well

All is well that ends well

Everything worked fine so we made for Sa Kaeo, the town closest to the Cambodian border. No warning lights, no issues with the electronics at all! I even had my family Skype call from the cafe at a gas station cut short in order for us to make it before dark. We booked a roadside hostel online so all we had to do was get there.

With the last glimpses of light disappearing, we rolled into the Golden house hostel, had a silly little victory dance in our room and fell into bed without dinner.

Day 177 – Bangkok, the never-ending city

Yeah, that's how it looks like

Yeah, that’s how it looks like

Today didn’t start so well. It might all sound very petty in the beginning but it started to add up over the course of the day. Our lovely hotel at the airport had a small cafe/restaurant attached to it. Flo had seen the menu last night, said it looked nice and wanted, at last, to have a nice breakfast there. However, it turned out to be not that nice. You could only order American breakfast which we did. We ordered it without the sausages and bacon which didn’t happen. When she brought us the tray and realized the mistake, we were handed the plates after she’d removed the meat. Thus, for the price of 120 baht PER PERSON, we now had two half-cooked fried eggs, one slice of toast with jam, an orange juice and bad tea and coffee.

This was the first time today, we regretted spending money on something.

New screw is used and just needs to be shortened

New screw is used and just needs to be shortened

As you might recall from yesterday’s post, we had fixed two problems and had created two problems. First, one of these things on the front wheel was now broken. Given that we are planning to ride into Cambodia, we rather wanted it to be fixed here. Waranyu, who was so super helpful yesterday, had sent us GPS coordinates of a workshop where we could get it fixed.

The mechanics were very helpful and within 1 1/2 hours they had gotten out the part that was broken off and replaced it with a screw. The screw was too long so they sheered off the part that was too long as well. Flo could definitely do a better job of describing it but you have the pictures to understand what I’m trying to say. 😉

So the first of our new problems was taken care of. The second problem were Flo’s gloves. Since we had left his broken ones at Touratech yesterday, he was riding without gloves. Well, he used his workshop gloves but they were no good. No real protection and the synthetic made his hands sweat a lot. So we stopped at the roadside and bought a pair of super-basic bike gloves for $10. While we were on the way to the motorbike shop to look for real touring gloves. *facepalm* In this synchronized moment of stupid, we needlessly spent more money than we needed to. Another regret.

PANDARIDER!

PANDARIDER!

Of course, pandarider had gloves. A lot of the selection was leather which is too hot for this weather but Flo found a pair of light summer gloves that he thought were okay. Note, he didn’t like them much but they were okay. Also, he had to buy them in XXL because he is a freakishly tall European with giant hands. *lol*

With all of our problems fixed, we now “only” had to leave Bangkok and ride to Chanthaburi, our last stop before Cambodia. But Bangkok didn’t want to let us go. Traffic was horrendous again and we were still in the city for a long while. Already not feeling too perky due to much money spent on things unnecessarily, we stopped at a huge mall to stock up on sunscreen and on cash. While I bought the sunscreen we’ve been looking for for a while, Flo had a disaster at the ATM. See, we have to pay fees every time we withdraw cash. Thus, we generally withdraw the largest amount possible so we only have to withdraw once or twice in each country. In this transaction now, Flo accidentally pressed “use local conversion rate” instead of “charge credit card with foreign currency”. This sounds like a pretentious thing to do but it actually makes a very big difference. Our credit card uses a good exchange rate while the local one is usually worse. And of course, using the local rate resulted in us loosing $100 worth of NZ money. Which means the money was charged to our credit card but we got not enough Thai baht out of the ATM for it. Bad rate. Now feeling utterly defeated for today, we had a cry and then lunch at McDonald’s.

Waiting for our fate next to the toll gates...

Waiting for our fate next to the toll gates…

Still, the city was not ready to let us leave. Navigating the traffic and the many, many streets, we ended up on the motorway. The “no motorbikes allowed” sigh was half-way up the ramp so we saw it too late and then there was no way to turn back anymore. So we reached the toll gate and were waved to the side, made to stop and a lot of “culprit” pictures were taken of us. Communication was impossible as no one seemed to speak English. So the man in the uniform with the strict face made us get off the bike and wait for our doom. I was certain we were going to be fined for using the motorway as motorcycles are not allowed on it and nearly cried again. Flo was very worked up but had to restrain himself as you don’t want to insult any officials. So we sat around. The man then told us in very broken English that we needed to get off the motorway. Sure, we knew that. So we had to wait for a car to arrive which could accompany us to the exit. It would take about 15 min.

After 30min, the car arrived. More pictures of us were taken. But they also let us know that we were free to leave with this car, without paying a fine. What a relief! So we rode behind the car…for a whole 50 meters as this is where the next exit was. Really? You made us wait so we wouldn’t ride 50 meters without company? Anyhow, super relieved, we finally, finally left Bangkok behind.

Lovely hostel, away from Bangkok ;)

Lovely hostel, away from Bangkok 😉

Things started to improve. First of all, the traffic was waaaaay lighter so we made good speed. Second, Flo actually enjoyed riding the bike while listening to an audio book. Third, we had a lovely coffee stop with iced coffee and iced chocolate to lighten our mood. Fourth, though with all the delays we had to ride till sunset, we found a lovely, cheap place to stay. It was in an old hospital, now refurbished as a hostel, opened only in 2014 and cost all of NZ$18 for the night. AND there was a food market nearby so Flo volunteered to buy dinner there which resulted in an amazing mix. Salad as a starter, dumplings as a main and nuts-honey-coconut mix for dessert.