Tag Archives: Bali

Day 113 – Jalan-Jalan

Jalan-jalan in bahasa indonesia means to walk or to go for a walk. In this case, to wander around without a concrete destination.

I had a terrible night due to being bitten by mosquitoes many, many times. Around 5am, I briefly considered to stay awake but managed some more sleep with episodes of startled awakening when I could hear the stupid things at my ear.

Breakfast made it better (Flo thinks I had a bad night because I was hangry) and we even got Balinese cake to try, courtesy of our lovely hosts. It was basically a small plate filled with sweet things including black rice pudding which many places offer.

Our first view of the caldera (including a bird)

Our first view of the caldera (including a bird)

We took our time this morning; Flo to get his credit card out of bank custody (YAY!) and I to catch up with the blog. Check out time was noon which enabled us to have a nice lazy start into the day. We then rode to Danau Batur which is a caldera lake. Basically, the landscape forms a crater with a 700meter “mountain” in the middle and a lake next to it on one side. It is supposedly a big tourist attraction, which is why I wasn’t especially keen to go. Flo continued by telling me about aggressive hawkers there and the monopoly one group has over tours up on the mountain…and I was more than sceptical after yesterday’s experience.

Already the road there was at least 10km of tourist shop next to tourist shop selling all the bric-a-bracs you could ever want. Or not.

My helmet also likes the view from the warung

My helmet also likes the view from the warung

Getting there, I had to revise my pre-made opinion: It is a beautiful spot. From up top on the rim of the caldera, you have a lovely view. Many restaurants line this street, all with the view as their main selling point. But we decided for a warung to save our wallets a bit. The lady in the warung was very nice, opening all the windows so we could enjoy the same view after all. Flo even instagram’d it…which is reserved for the most beautiful spots.

After lunch we decided to head down to the lake. The road led through an old lava flow field from 1969. The black rocks were pretty…the hawkers not so much. Reading that the hot springs “are the only ones in Bali with healing powers”, we finally turned around. Though not until Flo got pissy with a guy trying to sell us the hot springs or a bed for the night. Coming back up the road, Flo stopped for a couple of nice shots with Rocinante and the mountain; just to be swarmed before I could even take a single picture. They graciously gave us some space…but not enough that I could use my camera without zoom. *grin*

Nice windy road through lush forest. We even had a bit of rain

Nice windy road through lush forest. We even had a bit of rain

From here, the plan was to head to the north coast of Bali. It was a very nice afternoon for riding, almost a little too cool up in the mountains with heavy clouds above and through lush forest. Having had such a bad night, I was really tired so Flo looked for accommodation along our route. The closest one was about three kilometres from the main road through an impoverished looking village into a narrow driveway. We nearly missed it because the sign was so tiny. However, the name was “Villa Manuk” in the village of Manuksesa and Flo already told me to not get too excited as we might not be able to afford the “villa”. How right he was.

Testing the pool. Result: Well worth it!

Testing the pool. Result: Well worth it!

The villa turned out to be a three star hotel with only four rooms, all costing much more than we wanted to pay. But we got super lucky and were offered a room with 50% discount as it is low season and no customer was around. With the 50% discount, it was still the most expensive room yet but too good an offer to not take it. Flo had checked out the place and called it “a gem”.

That’s pretty much how it turned out to be. Once we accepted the offer, we were led to the dining area by the spring-fed pool without any chlorine in it to wait until staff had prepared our room. To make the wait less long, we got a complimentary welcome fruit juice while fresh flowers were cut for our porch. You’d think the service might be less awesome if you get a 50% discount but not here. We were pampered all the way around.

After dropping our luggage in our now ready room, we jumped into the pool. Staff rushed out to prepare two sun beds for us including two pool towels so we wouldn’t have to use our shower towels.

The location is great. From our room, as well as from the pool actually, you look out towards the mountains clad in rain forest. It only got prettier when the sun set.

 

 

Day 111 – Cruising

Taking aim ...

Taking aim …

I was surprised when we did our daily bookkeeping to learn that we only traveled 48 km today. Feels like more. Never the less, it was a good day. Not mind blowing, but enjoyable and entertaining.

It started alright with a good breakfast – which says something. Breakfast is often included in the room prices, but at 175k per night for two, the money has to be saved somewhere. So breakfast, in westernized establishments is usually either a pancake or two slices of whiter than white toast, plus tea or coffee. Since many locals prefer nasi goreng or rice cake, the pancakes are usually of dubious quality. Not this time though! The pancakes were excellent, we got fresh fruit to go with them. For a bit of colour, as our host said 🙂 – what a great start of the day. Continue reading

Day 109 – Deja vú

In a sudden turn of events I found myself waiting again. In the same ridiculous waiting room from hell, with no phone, no book and only official notifications around to read. I have read them all, yesterday. So I stared at the soulless walls and the soulless service representatives. Waiting … hoping. Tell you what, it worked! At least we hope it did – the application is launched, payed for and officially received, including our passports. As far as we can tell, everything was filled out correctly and we meet the criteria of permanent residency for New Zealand. Now all we need is confirmation from the embassy and our passports back in Java with the right sticker in it.

Thanks for a good time!

Thanks for a good time!

Earlier this day we caught up with Santosh when he was having breakfast thinking this would be our time to say goodbye for good. It was again great to meet up with him – only improved by the kick ass morning smoothies we got shouted. We collected more tips for our continued journey , including on for potentially after visa hell.

So released from the clutches of bureaucracy, we set out to have a look at Pandawa Beach. And what a bizarre experience it was. The beach at the southern end of the southern peninsula has only very recently been developed. Or say, they have started development. The infrastructure is ready, but the massive resorts are currently only outlines of leveled dirt behind the beach. A road has been cut into the cliff down to the beach, and while they were at it, enormous niches with statues depicting characters from the Mahabharata were set up along it. Down at the beach is an enormous car park and a row of maybe 50 warungs along the promenade. That is it.

I must admit, I am puzzled by what the appeal of the beach for these girls is

I must admit, I am puzzled by what the appeal of the beach for these girls is

That is probably also the reason, why the beach is currently mostly visited by Indonesian domestic tourists (One family we talked to was on a grueling 4 day trip from Jakarta). They were carted here by the busload. The handful of bule (foreigners) looked appropriately out of place.

Everything is sorted out at the beach, for a small fee. Deckchair and umbrella? 30k rupiah! Drink? Whatever you want! Boat hire, sure! Need to pee? No problem, 2000 rupiah! We ended up staying for an hours or so. Enough to have a swim. The mood was spoiled a bit when a bunch of university students from Java started filming us – for bragging rights I assume.

Statues in Bali are often "dressed", even on public buildings

Statues in Bali are often “dressed”, even on public buildings

After the beach, we headed west along the coast to find a place, but nothing really got us hooked. Plus Nina was craving some city life. So at 5 pm, we found ourselves back in Sanur. One thing has changed: Since it was so touristy here, we were able to book a room online for a very good price, $23 NZ. The Abian Boga Guest House even had a pool! The water was cool, to boot!

We were even happier when we found a laundry nearby that would do our washing over night. It was sourly needed. With all things set, we texted Santosh one more time. He had to work next morning, but in the end we arranged for one more dinner. He brought his lovely friend Lisa. We discussed where to go and it turned out that our hotel had a good restaurant as well.

We sat down to great food and had more great conversation. The biggest surprise came when Lisa asked if there would be Balinese dancing that night, and the answer was yes! So completely unexpectedly, we got to see our first two dances before dinner.  Balinese dancing really is something special – hard to describe but fascinating to watch.

Thank you to Santosh and Lisa for the lovely evening!

Day 107 – Deflated

Actually quite fed up, we left Kuta to head to the ferry in Lembar that would take us over to Bali. Although we left early, we were covered in sweat already. I was still wishing for a pocket waterfall…when we had the following conversation:

“Nina, are all the bags still secured?” – *me checking all of them* “Yeah, all good.” – “Are you wiggling around?” – “Me? Not particularly.” – “Are you sitting further back than usually?” – “Eh, noooo?” *repositioning myself* “Is something wrong?” – “The bike is running weirdly.” – “Stop and have a look?” – “Yeah….”

Rocinante being professionally propped up on a center stand *cough*

Rocinante being professionally propped up on a center stand *cough*

Turns out we had a flat rear tire. Yay. Made me like Lombok even more in right that instant. Poor island being judged so harshly. But, actually, we were super lucky: Flo had pulled up right behind a workshop. It took him about one millisecond to consider to get out his tools and start getting the tire out or pay someone $4 and get it done for him. Guess what we ended up doing. 🙂

Despite not having all the Honda-approved tools, the workshop guy had the tire off in no time at all. Maybe enough time for Flo to finish half of his “es campur” (mixed Indonesian ice cream) that we were offered while waiting. Since we couldn’t see anything sticking in the tire, the tube must have a puncture. And we were still carrying the heavy duty inner tube that we got in Darwin despite thinking of ditching it for a million times already. Workshop guy cracked up laughing that we had a spare tube but it made his job even easier. He just changed out the tube and put the tire right back on. Flo had a look

Off came the tire and it took almost no time

Off came the tire and it took almost no time

for the puncture on the tube but couldn’t see anything. The valve was actually broken, letting air out which led to our flat tire. Which is much harder to repair than a hole in the tube. Suddenly we were glad to have carried that stupid tube for so long.

It cost all of 30.000 Indonesian rupiah and we were back on track. This time we prepared for the ferry even better, buying take away food before getting to the terminal. Everything doubles in price for the ferry.

Luckily, sleeping was possible...

Luckily, sleeping was possible…

Tickets for us and the bike were about $17. The ferry looked tiny (and slightly untrustworthy as it had rammed something in its past) but it wasn’t very full either. We managed the four hours to Bali alright, laying around and sleeping for most of it. I was very happy to sleep as the 30mins I was awake made me seasick again. Lombok was covered in rain clouds and the sea was on the choppy side.

Arriving in Bali at 4pm or 4.30pm, I was through with this day. So we went to a guest house right in the ferry port town. Which turned out to be a lovely little spot. We were already relieved to see the volcanic mountains and the rain forest that comes with it, but now architecture is different as well. None of the islands so far are resembling Bali in the architecture. And our guest house, despite being on the cheap side, is a little gem. Which also offers the fastest internet connection we had so far.

I couldn’t help but feel a bit like holidays here so went out and had dessert after dinner as well: apple crumble with ice cream. It was authentic and good but I kinda forgot that it will be hot….*face palm*. Flo, smartly, decided for an “Arak attack” instead.