Tag Archives: Azemeh

Day 286 – Over the hills and far away

Another bright and sunny day!

The night had been slightly eerie as we could hear the wolves howl. I was happy when the sun was back up and we could pack and leave. I know that there were enough sheep around that no wolf would be interested in us but still…

All of today was dedicated to exploring the Alamut valley. We started with a stint to Evan Lake which was the back-up camping option yesterday. Arriving at the tiny lake with lots of rubbish at the shore and almost no privacy, we were glad that we’d camped in the fields. However, on the way out we met a retired French couple doing an overland trip in a 4WD. They were lovely even though the conversation was in French (go Flo!) and gave us the coordinates of a possible campsite further on.

almost back on the main road now

The next “attraction” in the Lonely Planet is a road that leads through or alongside canyons. Flo found a loop that we could ride to not double up and so we went in on river-level. First, we follow the road along the ride with the cliff side to your right. It was hard to photograph as the sun was right behind the cliffs. After a while, the road starts to wind up into the mountains. From here, you can look into the valley with the canyons below. Again, we saw the tents of nomads up here.

Full service overland adventure …

On route to Alamut Castle, the next of the famed Assassins’ castles, we saw a group of overlanders parked in a little side alley. They rode down from Switzerland in a tour, complete with support vehicle full of spare parts and tires, and will continue for a month. Thus, they were in a bit of a hurry…once a flat tire was fixed. We talked to them until we were near melting, standing in full gear in the sun.

A quick roadside lunch at the Alamut Castle parking lot prepared us for the hike up to the castle. The “Assassins” were prosecuted and thus quite paranoid when they built their castles here: There is no easy entrance and no easy siege. The mountainside is steep so the narrow staircase is the only way up (the second entrance has been destroyed).

one wing of the castle. Must have been decently manned

Alamut Castle is the one with a bit more structure remaining but it is also the one where you have to pay a fee and most of it is covered in scaffolding. We were a bit disappointed, yesterday’s castle had much more to offer.

Technically, the “attractions” end here. There is a pass leading out of the valley all the way to the Caspian Sea but the Lonely Planet only describes it for hiking. The French overlander couple from his morning came in that way and while the views are gorgeous, they said the road was in bad condition and muddy. They were happy to have 4WD. Thus, I was not keen to go that way. However, coming from Alamut valley, most of the road up is sealed. Flo wanted to go as high up as possible…fair enough. First, the road continued on in the valley in a rather unimpressive way. When the incline finally started, the road became interesting again. Up and up and up and up. When we seemed to be level with the snow-capped mountains on the other side of the valley, the tarmac ended and Flo stopped as promised. We took a couple of pictures of the valley, Rocinante and us before heading back down.

The ‘final’ view – pretty cool

It was late enough to look for a camping spot but we were lacking in the important departments of food, water and fuel. So we hopped from village to village hoping to remedy these lacks without having to go too far. The first shop, with a lovely owner, had water, eggs and veggies for us. Good start but not all we needed. Again, he gave us the things for half the price and a toffee on top. The next village supplied cheese and bread but fuel was only available in the third village. By now it felt late. The first possible spot next to a field of wheat was ours.

Flo cooked the tomato-egg dish for me that Azemeh had made for breakfast all those days ago. It worked well and was delicious with bread and the seed mixture that Azemeh had given us as well. Well fed, we had a short visit by a shepherd asking for water before settling in for the night.

: Another bright and sunny day!

: Heading east, towards the rising sun

: Alamut valley is famous for it’s rice terraces. Did not expect to see those again so soon.

: Nice and circular in a way. Sheep are equally stupid all around the world

: Turn off number 1

: Lovely couple. Unfortunately, we forgot to ask for their names.

: Most impressive from afar

: back on the main road

: they were pretty impressive

: but the light was not right

: the other side was right, but less impressive

: random turtle on the road – pretty high up actually

: The ridge road on the other side gave us better views

: looking good from up here

: the road we took in seen from above

: And always the snow capped mountains once you are a bit up

: almost back on the main road now

: Hard to focus on the road – but we were going slow

: Pickups are the new camels / donkeys

: one last look at the canyons from above

: Full service overland adventure …

: It was steeper than it looks

: The final steps up the castle

: Not much to see – protective scaffolding from anno 1984

: the wind blew nicely through this dugout towards a lookout point

: the view to be defended

: there are a lot of them around, and pretty big

: one wing of the castle. Must have been decently manned

: fooling around at the edge

: it will be sad once the underpuff is gone

: first time we got a good photo

: almost at the end, after this, the road goes up over the pass

: white peaks peeking

: that motorcycle magazine shot at the end of today’s route

: The ‘final’ view – pretty cool

: looks like gravel, but is very dirty tarmac

: no matter how high you go, someone will always have brought up some lifestock

: It even had a neat waterfall

: checking where to put the then, I promise

: The creation was actually pretty good

: chasing the signal at dusk

Day 271 – Shiraz

Posing over the breakfast table, especially vegetarian just for me

The girls were sad that we had to leave so early, while they were still in school, but the way to Shiraz was long and we needed the time on the road. We did, however, jump in the car with all of them on Azemeh’s morning school run to say goodbye. Such smart girls, it was a pleasure to meet them.

Azemeh made a special vegetarian breakfast treat for Nina – a tomato and egg affair that tasted delicious. We took a round of goodbye photos and packed the bike. Then, it was time to leave for good. We are so glad to have had the chance to share a day in this family’s life and experience Persian hospitality first hand. It did not stop at their door, either. Azemeh insisted to guide us to the edge of town, where the road that we would need to take goes east. Thank you all!

What a lovely road!

We followed the road east across a vast plain until we hit the first of the mountain ranges between us and Shiraz. Instead of following the route suggested by our hosts, we decided on a little detour further south. The shorter route would have led us past Pasargadae and Persepolis. Both of them we wanted to do as a day trip from Shiraz, and we hate doubling up on routes. This way, we got the chance to see some more beautiful scenery and go past three almost dried up lakes.

Flo on his way to play with the salt

We had a short rest at the first one, before re-fulling and pushing on. A few kilometers out of Shiraz, we passed the last lake – this one is a salt lake. There was a sort of jetty going down and we had a bit of fun playing around with the salt on the shore.

Once we were in Shiraz, we gave Hamid (our contact from Dubai) a call. Instead of him, his wife answered the phone and informed us that Hamid was currently in the operation room for surgery on his hands. Two days after we had left, Hamid had broken both his hands in a motorcycle accident. But this is Persia, after all. In no time, we were offered help and two blokes dropped us off at the hotel we had quickly looked up in the Lonely Planet.

Pretty knackered after a long day of riding, we only went out one more time in search for dinner and some light sightseeing. Dinner proved to be hard once again, with all the recommendations failing to offer any vegetarian dish for Nina. This is kebab land.

Checking out the handicraft

For now, we resorted to some people-watching across from the old palace, with a cup of tea from a street vendor. It turned out to be mostly people watching us, though, and we continued to one of the three bazars. We saw Persian carpets, spices and all manner of more or less useful wares, but still no food.

As we came out of the bazar, we decided to go for the safe route of bread and cheese instead and started to ask around. Turned out we walked just right past the bakery, obscured by a crowd of shoppers. We got a nice bread straight out of the oven and some veg and cheese and headed back to the hotel. On our way back, it actually started raining – the second time in two days for us in Iran.

Back in the hotel, during dinner, Hamid got in touch with us (bless him) fresh out of surgery. He got us in contact with his sister who lives in Shiraz and soon we got the offer of a guide for sightseeing for tomorrow morning. Pick up 9.30 am. All was well – we love Iranian hospitality.

P.S.: Get well soon, Hamid!

: Posing over the breakfast table, especially vegetarian just for me

: One more shot before digging in

: One more novelty: Ground pistachios mixed with sugar. Must be amazing as cake finish

: A glorious day to be on the road

: What a lovely road!

: Still quite green out here

: The first of the three “lakes” on the way to Shiraz – dry

: I like the dry shrubs…picturesque

: Though there might be some water…far, far away

: Check out the view in the other direction!

: Back on the road and towards the mountains…or alongside them

: Tiny whirlwinds haunted the plain

: Dry AND salty…and slightly pink

: Flo on his way to play with the salt

: Salt! Salt! SALT!

: Look at that pink!

: Epic shot of the rock

: The tower “fell” into the cistern and is thus leaning now

: Checking out the handicraft

: Mostly a place for Persian carpets and pretty cloth…no rood in sight

: This layered heap of spice becomes a curry mix when…well…mixed

: Looking along the spices of a stall

: All things copper

: Success! Bought bread fresh out of the oven and needed to let it cool

Day 270 – Sneak peek into Persian family life

We enjoyed the wildflowers

It got really cold over night, up in the mountains in a cave. When the alarm went off at 5.30 am, there was simply no way I could get out of bed. No way. Luckily, Flo didn’t insist on getting up so we stayed in the warm bed until the much more reasonable time of 7.30 am. Breakfast was served at 8 am in the restaurant and consisted of flat bread, butter, honey, a cream cheese that is somewhere between Philadelphia and feta cheese, hard boiled eggs and a plate with cucumber slices. Thus, we were ready to face the day.

Reached a nice high point of our hike.

Everyone else who wanted to had gone up the mountain hours before but we thought it would be sad if we leave without the slightest bit of hiking. So we put on our boots, packed some water and snacks and left on the dirt track towards the mountain. We had no idea how far we will get as it started to be quite warm in the sun already but there wasn’t much ambition in play anyway. We just wanted to have a nice view. Following the track around four bends, Flo spotted a tree up a hillside that looked like a great resting place. Up the hillside we went and it was definitely nice in the shade. Exploring further, we hiked up to the top of that hill, then spotted another, higher hill behind which we also climbed. Here, after another break and many pictures, we decided to call it and head back into the village.

Our escort to Shahr-e Babak

Once back in the village, we came across Azemeh again. She had invited us yesterday to stay with her family in Shahr-e Babak and now her whole family (husband Mohhamad, three daughters and herself) were here to pick us up and escort us to her home. Such a sweet gesture! We, of course, were unprepared and hurried up to pack all our things so we were good to leave as well. Shahr-e Babak is the closest town to Meymand, maybe about 30 kilometers away. In no time, we arrived at the house where we also met the grandmother and an aunt and uncle who we had seen before yesterday. Being great hosts, they gave us the chance to have a shower and make ourselves comfortable before it was time for many, many questions from both sides.

The eldest daughter Mahdiye speaks English very well and was able to translate for people who didn’t speak much English. Mohadeseh, the middle daughter, also knew enough English to ask questions while little Maedeh only said my name and then relied on translation to get across what she wanted.

Everybody having fun

Being a vegetarian, which is not very common in Iran, I made lunch slightly harder for Azemeh. We went out for a tour through the town and to give Azemeh a chance to pick up some ingredients including a kind of bread that Shahr-e Babak is famous for. This is how we ended up in a car, Flo on the front seat next to Azemeh, all the girls on the back seats and Maedeh dancing to Persian pop music on the middle console.

When lunch was served, it turned out that I am the biggest food barbarian when it comes to Persian food. I simply know zero about it which equals knowing zero about what to eat with what. The table sported big bowls of rice which was a good start so I took some. It was clearly meant to go with the chicken which I skipped on. Next to my plate was a bowl with something that looked like sauce so I was about to put it on my rice when I was stopped. It was a yogurt soup that you eat with a spoon or rather you drop chunks of fresh bread in to soak up the soup and then eat the chunks with a spoon. I have never heard of it before but it was delicious. Plus, the Shahr-e Babak bread is delicious, too, and goes well with the cream cheese.

So yummy, so hospitable

Next up, I put some salad on my plate next to my rice. This time, no one was quick enough to stop me but it is not what you do. There are special plates for salads and then you pour the dressing over it without it mingling with our other food. Whoops. Tea was served after lunch and I continued my barbarian streak when I asked for milk to put in the tea. One does not do this here but I was allowed to. 🙂 Then Flo dropped a cube of sugar in his cup which you also don’t do. You dip it into the cup, let it soak up some tea then put it in your mouth and drink the tea while it melts away.

During lunch, we also tried to learn Farsi words for the things we were eating but only a couple stuck, mostly the ones for bread and cheese. Tea is also on the list of things so I think I’ll be okay in the future. A little bowl with pistachios was served which was yummy AND an easy word in Farsi. Afterwards, I was really tired so I had a little 30 minute power nap before the day continued.

The rain did not scare all those Persians from their picnics

Since it was Friday and everyone was off school/work, we were good for an excursion to a huge field with rhubarb plants (or something very similar). It’s a very popular spot for the locals to go and have a picnic. We would meet up with more aunts and uncles and cousins there who gathered to be merry and cook a big pot of ash (not quite a soup, not quite a stew) together. The weather seemed to turn on us but we went anyway. Tea was served again and I shared the box of sweets that I had bought in Bandar Abbas so I could contribute something at least. It was great to see so many people and we played some volleyball or a version of dodge ball before having a bowl of ash.

Mohhamad, Azemeh and Maedeh with Charowo

The rain and wind picked up for real now. Packing everything back in the car, we still had many more pictures to take so everyone had their memory shot. Maedeh wanted some with us on the big leaves of the rhubarb plants which was sweet. Strawberries appeared from somewhere so there’s a picture of all of us holding up strawberries and then we all hopped into the car.

On the way back, we stopped at the field with pistachio plants. Flo had asked about it earlier as we both were unsure how the plant looks like and how pistachios are actually “made”. Here, we got a glimpse of tiny pistachios in the making.

The evening passed with more tea, conversation and then a serving of different fruits. Azemeh asked when we would like to have dinner but we had been eating the whole day and really didn’t need more food. Instead, she brought out her home-made baking. Full to the brim, we tried a small piece each and if we liked it, Azemeh packed a whole bag for us to take with us as snacks tomorrow. So, so kind and so, so yummy. I particularly liked small dough balls filled with chopped pistachios and probably dipped in a rosewater-honey blend (maybe).

At 9.30 pm, I nearly fell asleep on the couch so we went to bed which was earlier than any family member was accustomed to go to bed. It was a long day full of new experiences.

: We enjoyed the wildflowers

: The hill to be conquered

: The morning hikers went up the one on the middle

: Great weather for a hike

: Can you spot it?

: This was the most impressive one of these mushroom rocks

: Nina liked the shade

: Reached a nice high point of our hike.

: Nina is happy not to have to go further up.

: A little rest before going down

: Even the plain is 1800m above sea level

: A note left on our bike

: Our escort to Shahr-e Babak

: They seem to be enjoying the ride

: Everybody having fun

: So yummy, so hospitable

: Maedeh drew something for us …

: It got a bit cold, so I shared my jacket

: Interesting spot in the middle of the plane

: The rain did not scare all those Persians from their picnics

: Some kind of lizard was spotted

: A massive portion of ash cooked over open fire

: Mohhamad and Flo played some volley ball

: Then we moved on to something that resembled dodge ball

: Flo in action

: …two clowns in the foreground…

: Ash was shared and everyone sat down with a bowl full of it

: Azemeh took a picture of the rest of us

: The boys found a tiny snake

: By now, it was cold and windy

: Awww…sitting on the big rhubarb leaves

: Mohhamad, Azemeh and Maedeh with Charowo

: Trying to show me how to keep the rhythm for Persian songs

: Tiny pistachios in the making

: A heart for us at the end of the day 🙂

Day 269 – Meymand surprise

Didn’t expect it to be so mountainous so soon…

Instead of going straight to Shiraz, we decided to go to at least one of the Lonely Planet suggestions for the east of Iran. Meymand sounded great and just like our thing. A slightly weird village in a quiet mountain region, sleepy and with a cool highlight (this is an ancient troglodyte village with 2500 rooms dug into the sandstone).

The ride looked a bit daunting for a day, with 450 km to go, but we thought to give it a try and stop if need be. At least we would leave the brutal heat of Bandar Abbas behind is. Even in the morning, the temperature went over 30 degrees. The landscape surprised us, with cool rock formations starting right outside of Bandar Abbas. As we got higher, the temperatures got more tolerable as well. With a decent two lane highway for almost the entire way, we made good progress.

Found a kebab shop where the owner assured me that they have nothing but meat…then Flo was served his kebab with bread and yogurt…

During our lunch break we had our first encounter with a particular aspect of Iranian hospitality. Luckily our guidebook and friends prepared us for this: When we wanted to pay for our lunch, the shopkeeper said it was free. It is part of a polite game to refuse and insist on paying as a guest (three times). If they give in, it was politeness, if they insist it was a genuine offer. I like the dynamic of that – everything is very polite and done with a smile and it feels much nicer to spend money this way. Besides, the kebab was excellent.

Around 5 pm we were on the final kilometers towards Meymand, expecting a quiet night in a sleepy little town. Instead there was a greeting committee at the entrance to the village. With complementary drinks and cookies. We got swarmed and many smartphone photos got taken. Through much confusion, we found out that today of all days (Thursday is the first day of the weekend in Iran) they had a big festival going. The mountaineering club organized a big hike for Friday morning up one of the nearby peaks. This at least tripled the usual population of 40 with day trippers and camping hikers.

Posing with Mohsen

When we mentioned that we would like to stay in the towns only guesthouse (featuring a night in one of the many cave rooms of the town), smartphones got drawn all around and in no time we got ushered into the village and in front of the guesthouse keeper. People followed us all the way to get a chance to get a picture taken. We were village celebrates in no time, especially after some people translated the story behind our trip. At this point, Mohsen showed up with two girls in tow, being extremely nice and helpful as well. He is a local tour guide and invited us to come hiking with them in the morning – starting 6 am.

It’s like a hobbit hole!

A bit overwhelmed, we unloaded our stuff into our little hobbit hole. After a little breather and a change of clothes, we had just enough time for a little stroll to explore the village before dinner in the guesthouse restaurant. We once again got stopped and asked for a picture at least every 5 meters. We heard rushed conversation all around with people explaining in Farsi what our deal was and where we were from to any newcomer. It was great fun and very sweet.

Azemeh asked for a picture with her and Maede before inviting us to her home. So lovely!

One of the encounters developed into something more though. We got asked for photos by a very nice lady. During our brief conversation, she invited us to visit her home. This, on it’s own is also not too unusual and is part of Iranian small talk when spoken lightly. We declined by explaining that we were staying in town this night, but Azemeh made clear that was a genuine offer. She and her family lived in the next proper city 35 km back. We had no firm plans and after some thinking, we agreed to call her once we got into town the next day (after maybe hiking in the morning). It was very touching to see that she was genuinely excited about this.

During dinner we met another kind couple from the Czech Republic. They had traveled a lot themselves and it was great to swap some travel stories. It also helped to ignore the rude behaviour of the big tour group from an unnamed neighboring country of Germany.

Exhausted, we retreated to our surprisingly cold room and crawled into our beds with an extra blanket each to snuggle up for the night.