We are close to Bangkok and the goals for the day are simple. First, get a set of new tyres. Second, finally replace the partly dissolved Touratech Compañero gloves. They were basically gone since Timor-Leste.

I forgot to call ahead on both accounts, but have been in email contact a week or so back. What could go wrong? So we made our way to Asiana Moto, the licenced Heidenau importer for Thailand to get issue number one sorted.

Having all day to do stuff really helps to ease the stress of urban traffic quite a bit. After a comically bad breakfast at a little coffee shop attached to a petrol station, we started the 50km journey from the west of Bangkok to the shop located in the north-east. Traffic was heavy and slow going, but mostly cars, and those quite orderly. Even though we are about 110 cm wide with the luggage, we probably cut an hour or so out of our trip by lane splitting when possible. All in all, it took us about two hours to get there.

When we were within 1 km of the shop, I though I felt the bike behave oddly, and when we pulled up I was certain there was an issue with the rear tyre. I was right, a decent sized screw has embedded itself in the tyre, but unfortunately something else became evident: The shop seemed to be closed today. Oh … that may be an issue.

Luckily, I managed to get hold of Waranyu who is managing the store while the owners are out and about. Unfortunately, he was in Pattaya, 3 hours south of where we were. Nonetheless he promised to check the inventory to see if he could help us at all. Things got a bit hectic right then, while I took the wheel off (something needed to be done anyway, new tyre or not) a group of Thai arrived to help us maybe get the tyre fixed and Waranyu called back with news of an available rear in the shop.

I got hauled into a taxi, but the auto tyre shop could not help us with the tubed wheel and sent us off again. I did learn though that the tyre itself also had a tear lengthwise and should not be used even with a fixed tube. Meanwhile, Nina had talked to Waranyu and he agreed to get in the car and meet us at the store in 3 hours. What a hero!

So we settled in. Nina got her book out and I got to work on the wheel, just for practice and to find out if I actually could fix a puncture myself if I needed to. The sobering result of that experiment was that no, with my tools I see no chance I would be able to break the bead on the rear. Not even after a quick lunch.

A bunch more Thai showed up, including a paramedic, eager to help. I was not able to break their enthusiasm and explain that I was just mucking around while waiting for Waranyu to open up the shop. Everyone was eager to try. Bigger tyre leavers were produced, but one by one, they failed (which soothed my hurt pride a bit). The tyre was still happily sitting on the rim unchanged when Waranyu showed up and was able to explain what was going on.

With the proper machinery, a new rear tyre and tube were fixed in no time and my biggest worry was taken care of. Which left the question of how to deal with the front. It was better off, but I doubt it would have another 5000 km in it for the round trip until we returned to Bangkok. There were no 100/90 19″ K60 available, neither the more road-y K76. I knew from NZ that I could squeeze a 110/80 19″ in if need be, but that it would be tight. The K76 fit, but the K60 was about 2 mm to wide when not on the rim.

Waranyu when upstairs and rummaged around for a while until he emerged with an only half worn K60 from the discard pile. That one fit and we gave it a shot. A little drum roll, but it fitted even when on the rim. The best thing: I got this one for free! Thank you heaps Asiana Moto and Waranyu – that was a life saver.

Unfortunately, I spoiled the victorious mood a bit when I sheered off one of the four bolts securing the mounting plate of the front axle while putting everything back together. My story is that it was nicked before by a rock and I will stick with that … regardless, Waranyu was super helpful once more and gave us the address of a workshop we could go to tomorrow to get it sorted. The issue is not too bad, but nothing you want to go into both Laos and Cambodia if you have the chance to fix it before.

With big smiles and a photo session we took off for the Touratech Thailand premises another 35 km to the southeast, near the international airport. We made it there in time before they closed down and were welcome by Somjin. Sadly, the gloves I was using have been discontinued and the new summer gloves are not yet available in Thailand. Nonetheless, I left my, now utterly ruined, pair here to be send back to Germany for a post mortem.

At least we got a replacement for the broken carrying handle strapping down our tent (yes, we are still carrying a tent …). We concluded our visit with a customary photo-in-front-of-sign session and were off for our resting place for the night.

We made use of being so close to the airport and for a cheap but cool place usually for people awaiting their flight. On our way there we passed a night market and stocked up for dinner. Markets like these are a pretty cool thing in Thailand. People sell single dinners in plastic bags, ready for assembly at home. This seems to be a popular thing among Thai. We each got something for us and then a sweet thing for dessert. All for less than $4 in total. Whohoo!

A final goody that night was that when the hotel staff saw all our gear they upgraded us to a superior room, so that we only had to lug it up two flight of stairs instead of six. Ah, what a day.